The Perfume Library

Oriental Essence - Elixir d'Orient / Eau d'Orient

8.0

Rituals · 2015

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Rituals Oriental Essence - Elixir d'Orient / Eau d'Orient is a feminine scent where vanilla and frankincense set a sweet, smoky base, softened by lilac and woods. The scent reads as a single whole: vanilla and frankincense carry the sweetness and the smoke, Persian pepper adds a spicy warmth, lilac brings a powdery softness, and woods leave a dry line underneath. The overall impression is oriental, warm and sweet. Most voters recommend autumn and winter. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and also suits leisure and daily wear. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Voters mostly see it as feminine. Mercedes-Benz Club Black and Bois 1920 La Vaniglia have a close profile.

Nudiflorum (Extrait de Parfum)

7.6

Nasomatto · 2018

Floral · Green · Fruity

Extrait de Parfum

Ambre Précieux

8.0

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier · 1988

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Précieux is a sweet, resinous and spicy unisex scent in which vanilla, labdanum and ambergris stand out. It opens with lavender and myrtle, then softens into a heart of vanilla, nutmeg, labdanum and coumarin. Tolu balm, Peru balsam and ambergris form the base. The overall impression is sweet and gourmand, with a woody, powdery and slightly smoky warmth behind it. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and summer rarely gets a vote. It leans towards evenings and nights out. Votes for feminine and masculine are equal, so it reads comfortably on either. Autour du Parfum Ambre Mystère and Omnia Profumi Ambra have a close profile.

Kalemat

8.1

Arabian Oud

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Arabian Oud Kalemat is a unisex fragrance for fall and winter evenings, balancing fruity sweetness with spice and a touch of smoke. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evenings and nights out leading and leisure and daily wear trailing behind. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads comfortably either way. It opens with aniseed and blueberry, fruity and lightly spiced. Rosemary and cashmere wood build a woody middle. In the base, amber, musk and sweetleaf bring a resinous, gourmand warmth, with a smoky edge in the background. Tangier Cafe and Deserto have a close profile.

Amber Kiso

7.9

D.S. & Durga · 2018

Spicy · Woody · Animal

D.S. & Durga Amber Kiso is a spicy, woody and smoky unisex scent with a rough, animal and leathery character, leaning towards fall and winter evenings. It opens with cryptomeria, Sawara cypress and frankincense, giving a dry, resinous forest feel. In the heart, patchouli, iris and Japanese maple pull it in an earthy direction. The base of hinoki cypress, leather and tree moss leaves it deep, animal and smoky. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen most for evenings, leisure and nights out. Its masculine side outweighs the rest. Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Monsieur. and Marc Gebauer Air Tiger share a close profile.

Casbah

8.1

Robert Piguet · 2012

Green · Spicy · Woody

Robert Piguet Casbah is a unisex scent with a green, spicy and smoky character, leaning woody and earthy; it has been discontinued. It opens with angelica root, black pepper and nutmeg, giving a dry, spiced start. In the heart, iris, tobacco and frankincense build a resinous, lightly smoky core. Cedarwood and vetiver keep the base woody and earthy. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads more masculine to most, though a fair share finds it feminine. Armani Privé Bois d'Encens and Goutal Encens Flamboyant have a close profile.

Bornéo 1834

7.6

Serge Lutens · 2005

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Serge Lutens Bornéo 1834 is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent built around camphor, cardamom, cocoa and patchouli. Camphor and cardamom bring a cool, spiced edge at first. Cocoa adds a gourmand softness, while patchouli and labdanum lay down an earthy, resinous, woody base. White blossoms and galbanum stay in the background, leaving a sweet but dark, oriental character. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. More voters call it masculine than feminine, though a fair share find it feminine. Perris Monte Carlo Patchouli Nosy Be and Lubin Akkad have a close profile.

Luxor

7.2

Xerjoff · 2020

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Xerjoff Luxor is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex fragrance, with leathery and resinous sides that give it a dense, oriental-woody character. Ceylonese cinnamon, cardamom and leather open on a warm, spicy note. In the heart, frankincense, tobacco, Atlas cedar and myrrh build a resinous, smoky base. Indonesian patchouli, Cambodian and Thai oud and Indian cypriol leave an earthy, animalic weight at the bottom, with the sweetness running through that dark texture. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter; evenings and nights out lead, while summer and daytime wear are rare. It reads mostly masculine, with a classic feel. Dior Fahrenheit Absolute and Xerjoff Hayat have a close profile.

Bois Noir

7.9

Robert Piguet · 2012

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Robert Piguet Bois Noir is a woody unisex fragrance that runs from cedarwood and gaiac wood to sandalwood and patchouli, with a sweet, spicy side. It is rated strong for longevity and good for sillage. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring a distant third. It leans towards evenings and nights out, though it is also worn for leisure. Most voters read it as masculine, yet it is offered as unisex. Cedarwood and gaiac wood open dry and smoky. In the heart, sandalwood and patchouli add an earthy depth. The base of labdanum absolute and balsam leaves a resinous, sweet warmth. Those after a close profile could look at Profumum Roma Patchouly and Theodoros Kalotinis Santal Wood.

Bohemian Soul

7.5

Une Nuit Nomade · 2018

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Une Nuit Nomade Bohemian Soul is a unisex scent that links a fresh, green start to a smoky, resinous woodiness. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring, then autumn, so it leans towards cool, mild weather. Leisure, daily wear and the office are its main uses. Votes for masculine and feminine are close. Frankincense and vermouth open the top, while gaiac wood, myrrh and iris form the heart. Musk and sandalwood soften the woody base. The fresh, green and spicy side is balanced by a powdery texture. Its profile is close to Brooklyn Soap Company Bright Incense and Rogue Ishtar.

Only the Brave Tattoo

6.4

Diesel · 2012

Fresh · Fruity · Sweet

Diesel Only the Brave Tattoo is a discontinued men's fragrance that pairs a fresh, fruity start with a sweet, spicy, smoky woody base. Granny Smith apple opens it crisp and tart. In the heart, sage and Bourbon pepper add a spicy, slightly herbal edge. The base brings benzoin sweetness together with tobacco and amberwood, while patchouli gives the dry-down a woody depth. The synthetic and smoky accords give the whole a modern feel. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring and winter, and leisure, night out and evening are the most common uses. Seen as masculine and modern, it has a profile close to Davidoff Hot Water and Zara Tobacco Sublime.

Kokain Gold

7.8

Rammstein · 2021

Citrus · Sweet · Spicy

Rammstein Kokain Gold is a men's fragrance for fall and winter evenings, with citrus and spice set on a resinous, woody base; it has been discontinued. The top holds copaiba balsam, frankincense and Sichuan pepper, while citrus notes, turmeric and bitter orange make up the heart. A sweet accord softens the spicy, citrusy side. In the base, ambergris, poivrol and Madagascan vetiver pull the scent towards earthy, smoky and slightly leathery ground. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is mentioned most for evenings and nights out. Masculine is the character voted most often. Olfactive Studio Woody Mood and House of Orpheus 93 have a close profile.

Archives 69

6.9

Etat Libre d'Orange · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Etat Libre d'Orange Archives 69 is a scent for women that pairs a fresh, fruity opening with a sweet, resinous and lightly smoky texture. It opens with mandarin orange, pepper leaf and pink pepper, bright and spicy at first. In the heart, prune, vanilla orchid and frankincense take over, and the fruity sweetness softens into a resinous warmth. The base of musk, patchouli and camphor settles woody and powdery, with the synthetic and smoky touches staying in the background. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters recommend fall and spring, and leisure and evening wear lead the occasions. Voters mostly read its character as feminine, though some find it masculine.

Vanille Antique

7.6

Byredo · 2022

Fruity · Sweet · Synthetic

Byredo Vanille Antique is a unisex scent built around Bourbon vanilla, cistus and oud, pairing sweet notes with a smoky edge. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure time. Votes for masculine and feminine are equal, so it sits comfortably on either side. It opens with plum and freesia, fruity and sweet. In the heart, oud, cashmere wood, tuberose absolute and amber lay down a woody, spicy, lightly smoky base. In the dry-down, cistus and Bourbon vanilla soften everything into a resinous, gourmand warmth. Weil Suki Essence and Alkemia Fumé Oud à la Vanille have a close profile.

Bois d'Oud

7.3

Perris Monte Carlo · 2012

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Perris Monte Carlo Bois d'Oud is a unisex fragrance that sets oud and spice against a floral, sweet backdrop, with a woody, resinous and slightly smoky character. It opens with fruity and fresh notes, then moves into cinnamon, spices, rose and jasmine at the heart. The base holds oud, vanilla, saffron, musk, cumin and papyrus. The floral and sweet side is balanced by spicy, earthy and leathery accents. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is favoured for evenings and nights out, while summer is rarely mentioned. It leans slightly masculine, though a sizeable share of voters find it feminine. Swiss Arabian Shaghaf Oud Aswad and Lattafa 24 Carat Pure Gold have a close profile.

Coven

7.6

Andrea Maack · 2013

Green · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Andrea Maack Coven is a green, spicy and smoky unisex scent with a woody, earthy build that suits autumn and spring best. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, and it is worn mostly for leisure and evenings. Opinion is split between masculine and feminine, so it doesn't lean on one gender. The top holds whisky, labdanum and vanilla, with the vanilla sitting inside a resinous, smoky frame rather than turning sweet. Oakmoss and cedarwood form the heart, and galbanum and clove carry it down into a green, spicy, earthy finish.

Portrayal Woman

7.8

Amouage · 2019

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Amouage Portrayal Woman is a floral, sweet and spicy scent built on jasmine, tobacco and vanilla. It opens with a floral jasmine. At the heart, tobacco and vanilla take over; the scent turns sweeter, creamy and smoky. Elemi resin leaves an oriental, resinous warmth at the base. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most see it as feminine, though some call it classic or modern. Filippo Sorcinelli Voix Humaine 8 and The Dua Brand Self Image of Her have a close profile.

Russian Oud II

8.4

Areej Le Doré · 2023

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Areej Le Doré Russian Oud II is a unisex scent that sets a spicy, smoky, resinous oud over a sweet, gourmand base, suited to the evenings of the colder months. It has been discontinued. The top holds deer musk and ambergris; in the heart Indian oud and cocoa take over, giving the scent a dark, sweet depth. Cedar and resins sit at the base, and the woody, animal and oriental accords round out its heavy, warm side. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and favour evening and night-out wear. It reads more masculine than feminine, though it stays unisex in spirit. Areej Le Doré Russian Oud Attar and Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Sahara Noir

7.8

Tom Ford · 2013

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Tom Ford Sahara Noir, now discontinued and made for women, blends oud, frankincense resin and vanilla into a sweet, spicy and smoky oriental. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Votes on character are almost evenly split between masculine and feminine, so it doesn't sit in one camp. Bitter orange, cypress and cistus open it. Jasmine, rose, cinnamon and frankincense form the heart, and oud, benzoin, vanilla and labdanum make a sweet, resinous, earthy base. The result is warm, dense and oriental.

Vétiver

8.1

Dior · 2010

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Dior Vétiver is a men's fragrance that opens fresh and citrusy, then settles into a green, earthy, smoky woody character; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters point to spring, fall and summer, with winter the least chosen. It leans towards daily, leisure and business wear, though evenings and nights out hold their own. Voters read it mostly as masculine and classic. Sicilian grapefruit gives a bright, fresh start. In the heart, Robusta coffee adds a spicy, slightly roasted note. Haitian vetiver dominates the base, and the scent settles into an earthy, smoky woodiness.

Qatar

8.2

Roja Parfums · 2017

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Roja Parfums Qatar is a unisex scent that leans towards autumn and winter evenings, with a floral and sweet frame deepened by resin, spice and smoke. It opens with citrus notes, and the heart of violet, pear, peach, Grasse jasmine and May rose gives a fruity floral softness. In the base, vanilla, oud, patchouli, labdanum and styrax dominate, and the dry-down settles into a sweet, woody, smoky warmth. Longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it suits evenings and nights out. Voters read it as more masculine, though it also draws feminine votes. Roja Parfums Kuwait and Roja Parfums H - The Exclusive Black Tier have a close profile.

A City on Fire

6.6

Imaginary Authors · 2014

Spicy · Woody · Resinous

Imaginary Authors A City on Fire is a smoky, resinous and earthy men's fragrance led by burnt match and cade juniper. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, while spring and summer trail far behind. It leans towards leisure, evenings and nights out, and rarely gets chosen for the office or daytime. Most voters read it as masculine. The notes read as one whole: the dry smoke of burnt match joins the charred, woody air of cade juniper. Cardamom adds spice, labdanum brings resinous warmth, and spikenard gives an earthy depth. Clearwood softens the woody base, and berries add a faint fruity touch in the background.

Hacivat X

7.5

Nishane · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Nishane Hacivat X is a fresh, fruity-sweet unisex scent where citrus and green notes sit over a smoky, earthy woody base. It opens with pink pepper, pineapple and bergamot, so spice, fruit and citrus arrive together. Jasmine, lime and orange blossom keep the heart fresh, while patchouli, Haitian vetiver and cedarwood settle it onto a woody, earthy base. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn close behind and winter well back. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, and also suits the office. Most voters find it masculine, though it reads as unisex. Nishane Hacivat and Creed Aventus have a close profile.

Follow

7.6

Kerosene · 2016

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Kerosene Follow is a sweet, gourmand unisex scent built around amber, coffee bean and vanilla. In Follow, amber, benzoin and tonka bean join the vanilla to form a dense, creamy sweetness. Coffee bean pulls that sweetness towards the gourmand side, while plant juice adds a green undertone. Spicy, resinous and slightly smoky accords round out its woody, oriental character. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters recommend fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out. Votes for masculine and feminine sit fairly close, so it reads as properly unisex.