The Perfume Library

Issey Miyake · 2015

Sweet · Synthetic · Spicy

Issey Miyake Nuit d'Issey Parfum is a masculine scent for fall and winter evenings, where sweet, spicy notes sit against a leathery, woody backbone. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also gets worn at leisure. It reads mostly masculine, with some calling it modern. It opens with pink pepper and grapefruit. In the heart, leather and vanilla make a sweet but smoky core. The base of patchouli and tonka bean absolute keeps it earthy and oriental. Zousz Black Oud and Ferrari Leather Essence have a close profile.

Complex (Eau de Parfum)

6.5

Boadicea the Victorious · 2008

Green · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Boadicea the Victorious Complex Eau de Parfum is a unisex scent with a green, smoky and leathery character. It opens with sage and basil, moves into frankincense and violet at the heart, and settles on musk, oud and leather. The body is spicy, woody and earthy, while resinous and animalic tones deepen its rugged feel. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is worn mostly in the evening and on nights out. Nearly half of voters find it masculine. Pana Dora Swedish Leather and Tigha The Dark Side have a close profile.

Adiós Pampamia Mujer

La Martina · 2011

Floral · Green · Sweet

La Martina Adiós Pampamia Mujer is a women's fragrance that moves from a floral, green opening into a sweet, smoky base; it has been discontinued. It opens with pink pepper and hazelnut leaf, then moves into a heart of freesia, iris and frankincense. The base of burning wood, vanilla and amber takes over, with gourmand sweetness balanced by a smoky, woody edge and a soft powdery feel. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it leans towards daytime, office and leisure wear. It mostly reads as feminine. Fzotic Feu Secret and Serge Lutens Gris clair... (2006) have a close profile.

Suède et Safran

Nishane · 2014

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

Nishane Suède et Safran is a spicy, smoky, leathery unisex scent built around Persian saffron, suede and leather. The top holds Indian ambrette seed and Persian saffron. Suede and ginger sit in the heart, and leather with musk forms the base. Synthetic, spicy and woody accords lead, with an oriental, smoky feel and a leathery thread running through it. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is worn mainly in the evening and for nights out, with leisure and daily wear also getting votes. Most voters read it as masculine, though it is sold as unisex. Bvlgari Le Gemme - Falkar and Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Desert Oud have a close profile.

BlackSoul Imperial (Eau de Toilette)

Ted Lapidus · 2009

Sweet · Synthetic · Gourmand

Eau de Toilette

Ted Lapidus BlackSoul Imperial Eau de Toilette is a sweet, smoky men's fragrance that sets coffee beside oud and leather; it suits autumn and winter evenings, and it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out are the occasions it leans towards. Most voters read it as masculine. It opens with coffee and citrus fruits, with saffron and mint at the heart. Leather, amber and oud settle into the base. The overall impression is sweet, gourmand and spicy, with a woody, resinous, smoky and leathery oriental feel behind it. Lattafa Qaa'ed / قايد and Chopard Oud Malaki have a close profile.

O, Unknown!

Imaginary Authors · 2017

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Imaginary Authors O, Unknown! is a powdery, smoky unisex scent built around sandalwood, black tea and Lapsang Souchong tea, and it leans towards fall and spring. Its longevity and sillage are both rated moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, though a fair number choose winter. It is linked mostly with leisure and daily wear, with evening and office use also getting votes. Voters split almost evenly on whether it reads feminine or masculine. It has been discontinued. The notes have no top, heart and base split, so the scent reads as one whole. Floral and sweet accords are softened by the powder of orris butter and the creamy warmth of musk and sandalwood. Kyoto moss adds an earthy tone, while Lapsang Souchong gives a smoky, leathery edge.

Perfume Calligraphy

Aramis · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Aramis Perfume Calligraphy is a unisex scent that links an opening of lemon and cinnamon to a warm, spicy core of rose absolute, myrrh and oud; it has been discontinued. It opens with lemon and cinnamon; saffron blossom, rose absolute and myrrh lead the heart. The base settles into musk, patchouli, amber and oud. Floral and sweet accords sit alongside spicy, woody, resinous, smoky and leathery tones, with an earthy, animalic depth underneath. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and lean towards evening and night out. It reads more masculine to most voters, though a fair number find it feminine.

Cœur

Yves Saint Laurent · 2026

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Yves Saint Laurent Cœur is a unisex scent for autumn and winter evenings, where a floral, sweet character is balanced by spice, resin and smoke. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. It doesn't pull clearly masculine or feminine, sitting somewhere between the two. The opening has Guatemala cardamom and aldehydes, with French orris butter and Moroccan lavender in the heart. In the base, myrrh, amber, patchouli and almond sweeten the scent and settle it into a powdery, woody warmth. FOMO Gary's Den and RP Eau de Foudre Intense / Privé N°1 Intense have a close profile.

Dark

Akro · 2018

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Akro Dark is a unisex gourmand that balances the sweetness of cocoa and vanilla with spicy, woody dryness. Longevity and projection are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it wears comfortably on either. Cocoa opens it, cinnamon and hazelnut form the heart, and vanilla settles at the base. The sweet, gourmand side dominates, while spicy, resinous, earthy and smoky tones give that sweetness a dry footing.

The Woods (Eau de Parfum)

Brooklyn Soap Company · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Eau de Parfum

Ruby

8.5

Nebiru Parfvms · 2025

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Nebiru Parfvms Ruby is a unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings, with floral and spicy sides resting on a woody, resinous base; it has been discontinued. Ylang-ylang and red frangipani give it a floral warmth, while Ceylonese cinnamon, clove and Persian saffron sharpen that warmth with spice. Bourbon vanilla and rum sweeten it and add a creamy softness, and oud, sandalwood and ambergris build a smoky, woody, resinous depth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out. Character votes favour masculine, though a fair share read it as feminine. Aura Perfume A.E.O.M. and Filippo Sorcinelli Io Non Ho Mani Che Mi Accarezzino Il Volto have a close profile.

Oud for Love

The Different Company · 2012

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

The Different Company Oud for Love is a sweet, spicy, woody oriental that opens on saffron, whisky and cumin and settles into Laotian oud, amber and caramel; it is described as unisex. The top holds saffron, aldehydes, whisky, cumin and coriander. The heart brings sandalwood, iris, tuberose, ylang-ylang and clove. In the base, amber, tolu balm, caramel and Laotian oud lead, joined by patchouli, musk and Haitian vetiver. The accords read sweet, spicy, woody, animal, resinous and smoky together. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. On character, masculine and feminine votes are nearly level, so it sits comfortably on either side. Olibere Escapade à Byzance and By Terry Terryfic Oud have a close profile.

Jeke (2008)

Slumberhouse · 2008

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Slumberhouse Jeke is a sweet, smoky and spicy men's scent that most voters pick for fall and winter, for evenings and nights out; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated very strong and its sillage strong, and half of the voters read it as masculine. It also gets some leisure wear, while daytime and office use stay in the background. The scent rests on the sweet, resinous warmth of honey, vanilla and labdanum. Patchouli adds an earthy depth, tobacco and smoke bring a dry weight, and clove contributes a sharp spice. The sweetness leads, but the smoky, leathery side darkens it rather than softening it.

Chêne

Serge Lutens · 2004

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Chêne is a unisex scent that pairs a green, woody, smoky character with a sweet, resinous warmth, and it suits fall and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and leisure are the most common occasions. It is unisex, though most voters read it as masculine. It opens with black thyme, cedar and plant juice, which give it a green, earthy edge. In the heart, silver birch, oak, rum and beeswax build a woody, smoky core. In the base, tonka bean and coppice sweeten and soften it. Jacques Zolty Cubata and Goutal Myrrhe Ardente (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Grand Master

Mind Games · 2022

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Mind Games Grand Master is a floral-gourmand unisex scent built around peony, rose water and Kona coffee, suited to autumn and winter evenings. The top holds peony, blackcurrant and rose water; in the heart, Kona coffee, Rosa centifolia and violet deepen the floral side with a roasted edge. The base of ebony, panettone, frankincense and myrrh settles it into a sweet, creamy, resinous finish. Spicy, woody and smoky accords keep the sweetness from turning heavy, drying it slightly. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is chosen mostly for nights out and evenings. It leans masculine, though a good share of voters read it as feminine. Initio Psychedelic Love and Penhaligon's The Bewitching Yasmine have a close profile.

Royal Incense / Samahram

Omanluxury · 2018

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Omanluxury Royal Incense / Samahram is a resinous, smoky and spicy men's fragrance that suits autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring well behind. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, and less for office or daily wear. Most voters find it masculine. It opens with pink pepper, and lily and geranium add a floral touch in the heart. The base turns to Omani frankincense, leather, cedarwood and vetiver, with honey and amber adding sweetness and musk softening it. The result is sweet, woody and oriental.

Rhinoceros (2020)

Zoologist · 2020

Green · Spicy · Woody

Zoologist Rhinoceros is a green, spicy unisex scent built on leather, tobacco and smoke, best suited to autumn and winter evenings. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evenings, leisure time and nights out come up most. It reads mostly masculine, with a classic side as well. Its profile is close to Zoologist King Cobra and Amouage Epic Man. The top notes are whisky, rum, coffee, basil and pink pepper, so it opens spicy and slightly green. In the heart, leather, frankincense and tobacco absolute dominate. The base of oakmoss, patchouli, amber and Laotian oud dries down smoky, earthy and resinous.

Fields of Rubus

Kerosene · 2012

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Kerosene Fields of Rubus is a unisex scent that sets raspberry and plum against a woody base of sandalwood, cedar and patchouli. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening and leisure are the occasions named most often. Votes for masculine and feminine are close, so it sits comfortably on either side. The fruity, sweet side comes from raspberry, plum and apple, softened by vanilla and musk. Sandalwood, cedar, patchouli and tobacco build a spicy, resinous, faintly smoky woody base with an earthy note running through it.

Crystal Bomb

LEN Fragrance · 2018

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

LEN Fragrance Crystal Bomb is an oriental scent that sets a fruity, sweet opening over a smoky, woody and leathery base, and it suits fall and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with summer the least chosen season; it leans towards evenings and nights out. Though sold as a women's perfume, the largest share of voters finds it masculine. Raspberry, rose and violet leaf give the top a fruity sweetness, and cedarwood lays a woody ground in the heart. White musk, oud and vanilla then settle into a spicy, smoky and sweet warmth. Parfums de Marly Godolphin and Fugazzi Pomegranoudh have a close profile.

Music Festival

Maison Margiela · 2017

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Maison Margiela Music Festival is a sweet, smoky unisex scent that pairs red apple with patchouli; it has been discontinued. It opens with red apple, cannabis and violet leaf, so the fruity sweetness comes first. Patchouli, tobacco and frankincense then add a spicy, resinous depth in the heart. Cypress, cedarwood and leather settle into a woody, earthy, leathery base. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring, and it is chosen mostly for leisure time and nights out. Its character sits between masculine and feminine, which fits its unisex label. Jusbox Black Powder and David Jourquin Cuir Mandarine have a close profile.

Hakama

The Nose Behind · 2022

Fresh · Sweet · Spicy

The Nose Behind Hakama is a spicy, smoky unisex scent for fall and winter days, opening fresh and settling into a resinous, woody depth. Most voters pick fall, with winter and spring following. It leans towards leisure and business settings and also suits evenings. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters mostly read it as masculine, though it stands as a unisex scent. Bergamot and Sichuan pepper give a fresh, sharp start in the top. In the heart, nutmeg and clove carry the spice into a warm, sweet tone. The base of musk, labdanum and frankincense leaves a resinous, smoky dry-down.

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