The Perfume Library

Tribal Black Tea

7.8

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Illuminum Tribal Black Tea is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent that most voters place in spring and summer. Sicilian bergamot and Assam tea open it bright and green. Jasminum auriculatum adds a soft floral heart, and the base of cardamom, cedar and nutmeg brings a dry, lightly spiced finish. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick summer and spring, and leisure, daily and business wear lead the occasions. Votes for feminine and masculine sit close together, so it reads as in between. Its profile is close to Bigarade Concentrée and Cologne Bigarade.

Wild Tobacco

6.7

Illuminum · 2011

Floral · Green · Sweet

Illuminum Wild Tobacco is a unisex scent that sets tobacco alongside clove, cedarwood and labdanum in a sweet, spicy, smoky line. It opens with clary sage and clove, spicy and slightly green. In the heart, cedarwood and tobacco build a woody, smoky body. The base of castoreum, labdanum and tonka bean turns it animalic, resinous and sweetly warm, while the floral and earthy tones stay in the background. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen more for evenings and nights out. It reads mostly masculine, though a sizeable share of votes call it feminine. Savour Fougère Sombre and Andrea Maack Coven have a close profile.

Rose Oud

7.5

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Illuminum Rose Oud is a floral, woody unisex scent that puts Moroccan rose and Malayan oud at the centre. It opens with basil, jasmine and coriander seed, a fresh and spicy start. In the heart, Moroccan rose and geranium carry the floral side, while castoreum, patchouli and Malayan oud settle it onto a woody, animalic, oriental base. A sweet, powdery softness stays in the background. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most voters read it as feminine, though it wears as a unisex scent. Narciso Rodriguez For Her Musc Collection and Miro Salsa have a close profile.

Tomato Leaf

7.0

Illuminum

Fresh · Floral · Green

Illuminum Tomato Leaf is a unisex scent that most voters place in spring and summer, suited to relaxed daytime and office wear. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate, so it stays close rather than filling a room. Most voters read it as feminine, while some find it masculine. It opens with orange, carrot seed and tomato leaf, a fresh, green, fruity start. Jasmine, freesia and osmanthus bring a soft floral heart. Vanilla and musk in the base sweeten it and settle it into a powdery finish.

Arabian Amber

6.9

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Illuminum Arabian Amber is a unisex scent built around Egyptian bergamot, Atlas cedar and Omani frankincense, fresh at first and leaning sweet, spicy and resinous. Mysore sandalwood and Indonesian patchouli lay a woody base, while the Egyptian bergamot adds some freshness on top of it. Floral, powdery and oriental accords sit alongside, with a smoky edge now and then, and the whole balances between sweet and spicy. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin as a quiet scent. Most voters pick spring first and fall second, and it is chosen about equally for work, leisure and evenings. Feminine and masculine votes run close, which fits its place between the two. Bvlgari Le Gemme Gyan and Perfumer H White Smoke have a close profile.

Piper Leather

7.2

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Green

Illuminum Piper Leather is a spicy, smoky unisex scent built around black pepper, coriander and leather. It opens with black pepper and coriander, then moves into carrot seed, jasmine and leather at the heart. Civet, frankincense and musk in the base add an animal, resinous warmth. A fresh, green thread runs beneath the spicy, woody leather character. Longevity is rated good and sillage weak. Most voters pick spring and fall, and daily wear, leisure and business are the most named occasions. Just over half call it masculine, though it is a unisex scent. Venti4 Vorrei and Tom Daxon Vachetta have a close profile.

White Saffron

6.9

Illuminum

Fresh · Floral · Green

Illuminum White Saffron is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, green character against spicy, powdery and creamy tones. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong, though few people have voted, so treat that with some caution. Most voters pick fall and spring, with summer and winter further behind. It leans towards leisure, evening and daily wear, and with masculine and feminine votes close together it sits comfortably on either. Indian saffron brings the spicy, resinous side, while Egyptian geranium adds a floral, green freshness. Musk and woody notes soften both into a powdery, creamy base, with an earthy hint in the background. It is neither plainly floral nor plainly woody.

Black Gardenia

6.9

Illuminum · 2011

Floral · Green · Fruity

Illuminum Black Gardenia is a discontinued unisex fragrance that pairs a floral, green character with a fruity, sweet texture. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Voters spread it almost evenly across the four seasons, with fall and spring only slightly ahead. Leisure, evening and night out collect the most votes, while daily and business wear trail a little behind. The top notes are buchu, blackcurrant and blackcurrant liqueur, which is where the fruity, sweet side begins. In the heart, ylang-ylang, Indian gardenia and jasmine carry the floral character, with spicy and powdery accords alongside. Musk in the base softens everything.

Cashmere Musk

6.7

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Green

Illuminum Cashmere Musk is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, floral and green character on a powdery, woody base; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters point to spring and fall, then summer, and the occasions named most often are leisure, daily wear and the office. More voters read it as feminine, though a fair share call it masculine. It opens with ylang-ylang, coconut and cyclamen, a soft floral start. In the heart, Himalayan cedar, sandalwood and purple hyacinth join wood to flowers. Precious woods and musk form the base. The fresh, green tones blend into a spicy, powdery softness.

Saffron Amber

6.9

Illuminum · 2011

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Illuminum Saffron Amber is a unisex scent that pairs floral and fruity sweetness with spice and a powdery, woody warmth. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage moderate, so it reaches those close to you without filling a room. Voters place it mostly on nights out, in daily wear and at the office, with evenings close behind. Peach and bergamot open on a fruity, bright note. In the heart, ylang-ylang adds a soft floral touch and Indian saffron a spicy warmth. Amber settles underneath as a sweet, powdery base. Lubin Princesses de Malabar and Rituals Fuyu d'Or have a close profile.

Bergamot Blossom

7.3

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Illuminum Bergamot Blossom is a fresh, citrusy chypre with green and spicy edges, a unisex scent that has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin rather than filling a room. Voters place it mostly in business settings, followed by leisure and daily wear, with sport and evening less common. It reads balanced between masculine and feminine. It opens with Tunisian neroli and Calabrian bergamot for a bright citrus start, with pimento adding a light spice. Black pepper and thyme in the heart bring a dry, green note. Musk, oakmoss and labdanum settle it into a woody chypre base.

Scarlet Oud

6.7

Illuminum · 2011

Green · Synthetic · Spicy

Illuminum Scarlet Oud is a unisex scent with a spicy, smoky, animalic weight and a woody, resinous character; it has been discontinued. It opens with black pepper and honey, one sharp and one soft. In the heart, Indian oud, balsam and vetiver lead, and the scent turns woody, resinous and earthy. The base of civet and castoreum leaves a leathery, animalic trace. Green and synthetic accents roughen this dense picture a little. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, so it stays on the skin without filling the room, though the number of ratings is small. It suits anyone, man or woman, who wants a hard-edged oriental oud. Areej Le Doré Oud Zhen and Montale Dark Aoud have a close profile.

White Gardenia Petals

6.4

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Illuminum White Gardenia Petals is a fresh, floral unisex scent that sits between sweet and powdery. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays noticeable close by without filling the room. The number of ratings is small, so these figures are only a rough guide. Its fresh floral line keeps it easy to wear for a unisex fragrance. It opens with lily, blackcurrant and bergamot for freshness. In the heart, gardenia, ylang-ylang, jasmine and lily of the valley carry the floral weight. Amberwood leaves a woody base, while the animal and powdery accords soften the whole.

White Datura

7.0

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Illuminum White Datura is a unisex fragrance where citrus and floral accords meet on a fresh, green base with a touch of sweetness and powder; it has been discontinued. It opens with bergamot and cardamom. In the heart, pink pepper, Jasminum auriculatum and white datura form a floral frame while the spice stays in the background. In the dry-down, vanilla, musk and patchouli soften it, leaving a sweet, powdery trail. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters point to spring, summer and fall, with daily and leisure wear leading and business use close behind. Most voters read it as feminine. Etro Paisley and Santa Maria Novella Rosa have a close profile.

Trumpet Flower

6.5

Illuminum

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Illuminum Trumpet Flower is a sweet, powdery floral for women that leans towards evenings and the mid-seasons of spring and autumn. Orange blossom, cumin and jasmine lead the opening, and honey and datura in the heart make it sweeter. Gaiac wood, musk and benzoin sit underneath. A floral, fruity line softens into a powdery base with a faint animal edge. Its longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick evening and night out, with leisure close behind, and autumn and spring edge ahead of summer and winter. It reads as a feminine perfume.

Tahitian Yuzu

6.8

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Illuminum Tahitian Yuzu is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent that pairs a bright pineapple and blackcurrant opening with a floral heart of jasmine and violet. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, though the few ratings behind them make that only a rough guide. Light and clean, it suits easy daytime wear in relaxed settings. Pineapple and blackcurrant lead with a juicy fruitiness, while the citrus accord keeps it lively. Jasmine and violet then soften it with a floral touch, and musk settles underneath as a clean, quiet finish.

White Musk

7.4

Illuminum

Fresh · Floral · Spicy

Illuminum White Musk is a unisex fragrance that opens with Turkish rose and saffron, carries clove and sandalwood in the heart, and dries down to musk and patchouli. Longevity is rated strong and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall, followed by summer and spring, with winter a little behind. It leans towards daily and office wear, and also suits evenings and nights out. The top is led by rose and saffron. In the heart, clove, pimento and sandalwood add a spicy, woody warmth, while musk and patchouli leave a soft, powdery, creamy base. Its fresh, floral side is balanced by oriental and animal tones. Narciso Rodriguez Rose Musc and Police Pure DNA Femme have a close profile.

Ginger Pear

5.7

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Illuminum Ginger Pear is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, fruity character with citrus, flowers and a light sweetness. Longevity is moderate and sillage is weak, so it stays close to the skin rather than filling a room. The number of voters is small, so this reading is tentative. It is made for men and women alike and leans toward neither. It opens with pear and bergamot, giving a fresh, juicy first impression. The heart brings white gingerlily, fennel and rhubarb, adding a floral note with a faintly green edge. In the base, sandalwood and musk soften the whole, while the sweet, gourmand tones stay in the background.

Black Musk

5.6

Illuminum

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Illuminum Black Musk opens with Tolu balm, Indonesian patchouli and tonka bean and settles into musk and civet; it is a spicy, woody unisex scent that has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated very strong and its sillage strong, though few voters have rated it, so these figures are tentative. It suits men and women alike, and its heavy, dense character fits colder weather and evenings best. The opening is led by Tolu balm, patchouli and tonka. In the heart, sandalwood, frankincense and myrrh build a resinous, smoky base. The base of civet, musk and vanilla softens the animal, leathery and earthy tones with a warm sweetness. Areej Le Doré Oud Zhen and L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh have a close profile.

Taif Rose

7.1

Illuminum

Citrus · Floral · Green

Illuminum Taif Rose is a unisex rose scent built on rose otto and Taif rose, softened by sandalwood and musk, with a woody, powdery side. Voters find its longevity and sillage strong, though the number of votes is small, so this is only a rough guide. Most voters pick spring and autumn, with winter not far behind. It is chosen about equally for leisure, evening and nights out, and it also works for business settings. It opens with rose otto and geranium, where citrus and green tones give a fresh start. In the heart, Taif rose and Bulgarian Rosa alba bring out the floral side. In the dry-down, sandalwood and musk set a woody, powdery, slightly oriental base. Its profile is close to Hermès 24, Faubourg Eau Délicate and Perris Monte Carlo Rose de Taif.

Rajamusk

7.0

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Illuminum Rajamusk is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, fruity opening of bergamot and red currant with lavender and pear blossom, settling into patchouli and musk; it has been discontinued. It opens with bergamot and red currant, citrusy and fruity, while lavender and pear blossom add a green, floral side. In the heart, lily of the valley and violet bring a soft, powdery quality, and the base of patchouli and musk rests the scent on a calm, resinous footing. Synthetic and spicy touches sit among its accords. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin rather than filling a room. With its fresh, floral weight it suits calm, everyday wear. It is described as unisex.

Skin Petals

6.5

Illuminum · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Illuminum Skin Petals is a fresh, floral unisex scent with a powdery, creamy softness and a light fruity sweetness; it has been discontinued. It opens with apple blossom and blackcurrant, which give a light, fruity freshness. The heart brings jasmine, lily of the valley, violet and white iris; the floral side leads here and carries a powdery feel. In the base, white amber and musk hold those flowers on a soft, creamy footing. The sweetness never turns heavy and stays in the background beside the fresh accord, so the scent reads clean and close to the skin. Marc Gebauer Purple Flamingo and Marc Gebauer Amorist have a similar note and accord profile.

Moroccan Tuberose

6.5

Illuminum

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Illuminum Moroccan Tuberose opens with geranium and Turkish rose and rests on tuberose in the base, giving a sweet, creamy floral for women. Geranium and Turkish rose lead, with Moroccan rose and ylang-ylang forming the floral heart. The base brings musk, Atlas cedar and tuberose, adding a woody footing, a creamy softness and a faint spicy, animalic edge. Longevity and sillage are rated as good, though only a few people have voted, so the picture is tentative. The floral, sweet character reads clearly feminine. Naomi Jon Taboo and Francesca Bianchi Gauguin have a close profile.

Majestic Oud

7.2

Illuminum · 2011

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

Illuminum Majestic Oud is a spicy, woody and smoky oriental built for men, with a resinous, earthy heart of oud. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Voters place it mostly on nights out, leisure time and evenings, with business and daily wear further behind. It reads as a masculine perfume. The opening brings clove, cardamom and dried fig, while jasmine and rose absolute add a soft floral touch in the heart. The base settles on Indonesian oud, gaiac wood, labdanum and musk, giving the resinous, earthy and smoky feel. A synthetic accord also runs through it. Its profile is close to Filippo Sorcinelli LAVS and Comme des Garçons Wonderoud.