The Perfume Library

Ashka

8.2

Not Perfumes · 2018

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Not Perfumes Ashka is a spicy, woody and smoky unisex fragrance, dark and austere, with resinous, earthy and leathery tones. It opens with gaiac wood, cubeb and gun powder; galbanum, cypriol, tobacco and frankincense add a resinous depth in the heart. The base is dominated by birch tar, oud and ash smoke, with woody notes and Canary Islands juniper rounding out the dry, earthy ground. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter; it leans towards evenings and nights out, and is also worn for leisure. Voters call it masculine more often than feminine, though the feminine share is sizeable. Le Labo Oud 27 and Rook Perfumes Rook have a close profile.

Vaan

7.8

Not Perfumes · 2018

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Not Perfumes Vaan is a dark, warm unisex scent that weighs a sweet floral core down with spice, resin and animal tones. Cinnamon, clove and pink pepper open it with spice, while bergamot and neroli add a little light on top. In the heart, rose, benzoin and cistus come forward; in the base, vanilla, castoreum and civet pull it toward something sweet but animalic. Woody, earthy and smoky accords deepen the warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evenings and nights out are the most named occasions. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads comfortably either way. Mardi Gras and Fate Woman have a close profile.

Svaha

7.7

Not Perfumes · 2018

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Not Perfumes Svaha is a unisex scent with a spicy, woody and smoky character, warmed by resinous and animal tones. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and almost none suggest summer. Evenings, leisure time and nights out come up most often. Some voters call it masculine, a good number call it feminine, so it sits comfortably between the two. It opens with ginger, long pepper and cardamom, softened by frankincense and butter. In the heart, Himalayan cedar, cinnamon and caramel come forward, while turmeric and fenugreek keep the spice going. The base of myrrh, labdanum, embers and goatskin settles into a smoky, earthy, animal finish.

Nadir

7.6

Not Perfumes · 2018

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Not Perfumes Nadir is a unisex scent that opens fresh and green, then settles into a smoky, leathery and resinous character, suited mostly to autumn and winter evenings. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and lean towards evening and night-out wear. It reads slightly more masculine, though a good share of voters call it feminine. Camphor and cardamom give a cool, spicy start. In the heart, patchouli, myrrh and leather take over; in the base, castoreum, vanilla and tar build a smoky, animal and earthy ground, with the vanilla softening that rough texture a little. Amouage Epic Man and Élisire Extrait Noir have a close profile.

Orm

7.7

Not Perfumes · 2018

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Not Perfumes Orm is a fresh, green and woody unisex scent that leans towards autumn and winter evenings and relaxed leisure time. Most voters pick autumn and winter for Orm, though spring is not far behind. Evening, leisure and night out lead the occasions, while business wear is chosen least. Longevity and sillage both rate as good. Votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine, so it doesn't lean hard either way. The top opens with pine needle, corn mint and birch, with pepper adding spice. In the heart, fir balsam, cedar and kelp give a resinous, green forest feel, softened a little by honey. The base of driftwood, leather, hay and ambergris settles into an earthy, animal warmth.

Not Perfumes · 2019

Not Perfumes · 2019

Floral · Green · Spicy