The Perfume Library

[³Li] Lithium

7.1

One of those · 2012

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

One of those [³Li] Lithium is a smoky, spicy unisex scent built around flintstone, saffron and leather; it has been discontinued. The notes have no top, heart and base split, so the scent reads as a whole. Flintstone, saffron, spices and leather give it a hard, smoky edge. Iris and rose soften that with a floral side, while patchouli, musk and cedarwood set a woody, animalic foundation. Sweet and fruity tones also appear among the accords. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. It reads slightly more masculine, though a good share of voters call it feminine. Amberbomb and Franck Boclet Musc have a close profile.

[²He] Helium

7.3

One of those · 2012

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

One of those [²He] Helium is a unisex scent led by cinnamon, benzoin and damask rose, floral, sweet and spicy in character, and it has been discontinued. The notes read as a single whole rather than in layers: Italian bergamot and clary sage brighten it, cinnamon adds spice, and benzoin with liquidambar give a resinous sweetness. Iris and tobacco flower soften the floral side, while patchouli, gaiac wood and vetiver set a woody base. The accords also include fruity, gourmand and oriental tones. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards leisure, evening and night-out wear. Feminine and masculine votes are almost equal, so it doesn't lean clearly either way.

[⁶C] Carbon

6.9

One of those · 2012

Sweet · Synthetic · Spicy

One of those [⁶C] Carbon is a sweet, spicy and woody unisex scent with a smoky, earthy edge, best suited to the cooler seasons. Longevity and sillage are both rated moderate. Most voters pick fall, followed by winter and spring, and leisure and evening wear lead. Votes for masculine and feminine are close, so it sits between the two. It has been discontinued. Sandalwood and resins give it a warm, woody frame, while cardamom, black pepper and ginger add a dry, peppery bite. Iris and pepper blossom soften that edge, and herbs bring an earthy note. The result is a smoky, sweet-leaning oriental wood.

[¹⁶S] Sulphur

7.3

One of those · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Green

One of those [¹⁶S] Sulphur is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, green citrus start against spice, resin and an animal darkness, with a synthetic edge; it has been discontinued. Grapefruit and angelica bring the freshness, while cinnamon and pimento add spice. Myrrh, opoponax and costus give a resinous weight, and patchouli, vetiver and moss lay down an earthy, woody base. Castoreum carries the animal and leathery side, and a smoky air runs through it. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it leans towards leisure and daytime wear, with evening and office use also fitting. The largest share of voters reads it as masculine, though a fair number call it feminine. Halston Z-14 and Quorum have a close profile.

[⁸O] Oxygen

6.5

One of those · 2012

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

One of those [⁸O] Oxygen is a fresh, aquatic unisex scent, set against green, woody and spicy tones, and it has been discontinued. The notes read as a single whole: aldehydes and pepper give a cool edge, while saffron and vetiver add a dry, earthy depth. Woods and frankincense draw a resinous, faintly smoky background, and musk softens it all. A synthetic brightness also comes through in the accords. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin and keeps quiet. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daytime and office wear lead the occasions. It leans masculine in character, though it also draws feminine votes. Sammarco Vitrum and Davidoff Wood Blend have a close profile.

[¹H] Hydrogen

6.4

One of those · 2012

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

One of those [¹H] Hydrogen is a fresh, citrusy and aquatic unisex scent built around mandarin orange, basil and melon, suited to spring and summer days. It has been discontinued. It reads fresh and green: mandarin orange and basil give a bright start, while melon adds a soft fruity note. Jasmine, spices and vanilla sweeten that coolness slightly, and oakmoss, woods and musk set a woody base. Aldehydes and lichen lend it a clean, synthetic edge. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it is worn for leisure, daily use and the office. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, in keeping with its unisex nature. Polo Blue (Eau de Toilette) and Mexx Man (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

[⁹⁶Cm] Curium

7.4

One of those · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Synthetic

One of those [⁹⁶Cm] Curium is a unisex fragrance that pairs a fresh, floral character with spice and a powdery woody finish; it has been discontinued. Longevity is good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring, fall and summer, with winter trailing behind. It leans towards leisure and office wear, and votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine. The top opens with ambrette seed, red berries, pepper and cinnamon, so spice and fruit come first. Violet and iris in the heart add a powdery floral note. The base settles on vetiver, benzoin and patchouli for a woody footing, softened by tonka bean and musk.

[⁸⁰Hg] Mercury

4.8

One of those · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

One of those [⁸⁰Hg] Mercury is a unisex scent that ties a fresh, citrusy opening to a floral and woody base, and it leans towards spring and summer. The top is lemon, mandarin orange, rhubarb, blackcurrant and aldehydes, giving a bright, fruity and slightly sweet start. Violet and geranium bring a floral softness in the middle. The base of tolu balm, patchouli, cedarwood and sandalwood settles into a woody, lightly spicy finish. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring first, then summer, though autumn and winter get votes too. On character, masculine edges ahead of feminine. It has been discontinued. Michalsky Sea and Versace Eros Flame have a close profile.