The Perfume Library

16 perfumes

Chaleur Gitane

Paul Emilien · 2015

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Paul Emilien Chaleur Gitane is a sweet, spicy unisex fragrance that opens on bergamot and black pepper and settles onto patchouli, vanilla and sandalwood. Chinese ginger, Calabrian bergamot and black pepper give the top a sharp, spicy edge. In the heart, raspberry and chocolate bring sweetness while sandalwood and cedar ground it in wood. The base of patchouli, vanilla and benzoin leaves a resinous, earthy and slightly smoky warmth. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards leisure, evenings and nights out. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Votes for feminine and masculine character sit close together, so it reads as genuinely in between.

L'Esprit Divin

6.5

Paul Emilien · 2014

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Paul Emilien L'Esprit Divin is a spicy, resinous and woody unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with frankincense, cardamom, nutmeg, clove and ginger for a spicy warmth, while rose and vanilla sweeten the edges. In the heart, musk, sandalwood and patchouli build a woody, earthy body. The base of labdanum, amber, tobacco and Turkish rose leaves a resinous, smoky and slightly leathery trail. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evening, night out and leisure leading the occasions. It reads more masculine than feminine in the votes, though a fair share call it feminine. Montale Arabians Rose Leather and Jovoy Psychédélique have a close profile.

Souffle Intime

7.1

Paul Emilien · 2014

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Paul Emilien Souffle Intime is a feminine fragrance that pairs a fresh, floral start with a sweet, powdery and resinous depth. Voters rate its longevity as good and its sillage as moderate. It is chosen mostly for autumn, winter and spring, far less for summer, and it suits evenings, daily wear and nights out. Most voters call it feminine and classic. The top notes of aldehydes, pink pepper, orange and mandarin open bright. The heart builds a floral frame of iris, jasmine, rose and violet, softened by cinnamon and peach into something spicy and fruity. The base settles into vanilla, tonka bean, amber and musk, sweet and woody.

Première Danse

6.8

Paul Emilien · 2014

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Paul Emilien Première Danse is a feminine scent that sets a floral, powdery character against sweet, fruity and spicy touches; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are rated moderate, so it neither stays too close nor fills a room. Voters pick it mostly for leisure, daytime and office wear, with evening and night out further behind. It opens with Italian iris, Sicilian mandarin orange, Argentinian bitter orange and Tasmanian red berries. In the heart, French violet, French mimosa, Haitian vetiver and precious woods give it a floral, woody core. The base of Somalian frankincense, Siam benzoin, Spanish labdanum, white musk and amber sweetens it and settles into a powdery warmth.

Pure Addiction

6.7

Paul Emilien · 2014

Citrus · Green · Spicy

Paul Emilien Pure Addiction is a citrusy, spicy and woody men's fragrance that pairs cardamom, Thai basil and bergamot with clove. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin. Voters place it mostly in the evening, followed by leisure and business settings, and it also works as an everyday scent. It opens with Guatemala cardamom, Thai basil, Italian bergamot and Madagascan clove, giving a fresh, spicy start. In the heart, Virginia cedar, French sage and Spanish cistus add a green, earthy side. The base of amber, white musk and Indonesian patchouli settles into a warm, resinous woodiness.

Carrousel

7.7

Paul Emilien · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Paul Emilien Carrousel opens with carrot, bergamot and Sicilian lemon and carries lily of the valley and Turkish rose at its heart, a fresh, floral scent made for women; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated moderate and its sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin and is quiet. With few votes behind these ratings, they give only a rough idea. Citrus and carrot lead the top, while chili and eucalyptus add a light spice to that freshness. In the heart, lily of the valley, rose and jasmine build a floral core, and violet brings a powdery softness. Bourbon vanilla, amber and white musk sweeten the base. Paul Emilien Gardénia Tropical and Salvador Dali Daliflor have a close profile.

Cuir Rustique

7.6

Paul Emilien · 2016

Citrus · Floral · Sweet

Paul Emilien Cuir Rustique is a unisex scent built around leather, styrax and gaiac wood, giving it a woody, resinous character with a sweet, smoky edge. It opens with turmeric, Sicilian lemon and Argentinian bitter orange, where citrus meets spice. In the heart, magnolia and Florentine iris add a soft floral note, while clove and Ceylonese cinnamon keep the spice going. The base settles into leather, styrax, labdanum and vetiver, warm, smoky and resinous. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters place it in the evening, followed by leisure and daily wear. Being unisex, it reads comfortably on men and women alike. Acqua di Parma Leather (Eau de Parfum) and Brecourt Subversif (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Gardénia Tropical

7.5

Paul Emilien · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Green

Paul Emilien Gardénia Tropical is a fresh, floral unisex scent built around gardenia and Egyptian jasmine. Peach, plum and Sicilian lemon open on a fruity brightness, while grass and spices add a green, slightly sharp edge. In the heart gardenia, Egyptian jasmine, orange blossom and Turkish rose take over. The base of Bourbon vanilla, amber and white musk sweetens it and settles into a soft, powdery finish. Longevity and sillage are rated as good, though the number of votes is small. With its floral, sweet profile it can be worn by men and women alike, and its fruity freshness suits warmer weather.

Vétiver Indien

7.7

Paul Emilien · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Paul Emilien Vétiver Indien is a unisex scent that sets a fresh citrus and mint opening on a dry, woody base of vetiver, sandalwood and tree moss; it has been discontinued. It opens with Sicilian lemon, mandarin orange, grapefruit and peppermint, while elemi adds a resinous edge to this fresh, fruity start. In the heart, lavender and violet bring a soft floral note, black pepper adds spice and sandalwood begins the woody turn. The base of vetiver, tree moss, myrrh, amber and white musk settles into a green, dry, slightly animalic woodiness. Voters find the longevity good and the sillage moderate. Daily wear, leisure and business get equal votes, while evening and night out trail behind. Being unisex, it reads comfortably on anyone as a daytime scent. The vote count is small, so these impressions are approximate.

Une Belle Journée

5.0

Paul Emilien · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Paul Emilien Une Belle Journée is a fresh, green floral for women, led by Turkish rose, mint and Italian mandarin orange. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate, so it stays noticeable through much of the day without filling the room. Only a few people have rated it, so treat these as early impressions rather than a firm verdict. It is positioned as a feminine fragrance. It opens bright, with rose, mint and lemon-mandarin citrus. In the heart, Gallic rose, violet leaf and peony add a soft, green floral layer. The base of leather, Egyptian jasmine and French tree moss sweetens it slightly and settles it onto a drier ground. Carthusia Essence of the Park and Ciro Floveris have a close profile.

Orchidée Charnelle

7.6

Paul Emilien · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Paul Emilien Orchidée Charnelle is a unisex scent that opens on French violet, cyclamen and orchid, with a fresh, floral, powdery character; it has been discontinued. It begins with green notes and Argentinean grapefruit for a cool edge, while violet, cyclamen and orchid lay a floral veil over it. The heart brings lily of the valley, Egyptian jasmine, Egyptian geranium and Morrocan orange blossom, turning the scent into a softer, fuller bouquet. White musk, amber and Texas cedar settle the dry-down on a powdery, lightly woody base. Fresh, citrus and fruity tones stay in the background beside the flowers throughout. Its profile is close to Vertigo Vertigo and Lanvin Éclat d'Arpège (Eau de Parfum).