The Perfume Library

Laine de Verre

6.5

Serge Lutens · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Serge Lutens Laine de Verre is a unisex fragrance with a fresh, citrusy and slightly synthetic character, best suited to spring and summer days and everyday wear. Laine de Verre has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, while winter sits well behind. Daily, leisure and office wear lead the occasions. It reads neither clearly masculine nor feminine, as the votes split almost evenly. Citrus notes and aldehydes give it a clean, bright start. Cashmeran and musk soften this and settle it onto a woody, lightly spicy base. Aquatic and green tones keep the coolness, while the synthetic side lends a cold, glassy sheen.

Rousse

7.5

Serge Lutens · 2007

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Serge Lutens Rousse is a sweet, spicy unisex scent in which cinnamon, nutmeg and mandarin orange sit over amber and cedarwood. Rousse is a fall and winter scent: most voters pick those two seasons, while summer trails far behind. It leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Voters split almost evenly between reading it as feminine and masculine. The scent as a whole is warm and gourmand. The spice of cinnamon and nutmeg is softened by the fruity brightness of mandarin orange, and amber adds a resinous sweetness. Cedarwood gives it a woody backbone, with a powdery texture behind. Giorgio Armani Armani Privé - Ambre Eccentrico and Ex Nihilo Sloane Ravers have a close profile.

La dompteuse encagée

6.9

Serge Lutens · 2021

Fresh · Floral · Green

Dans le bleu qui pétille

7.5

Serge Lutens · 2022

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

Serge Lutens Dans le bleu qui pétille is a fresh, aquatic unisex scent that leans towards spring and summer days, leisure time and everyday wear. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn not far behind and winter rarely chosen. It is favoured most for leisure and daily wear, and it also suits the office. In character votes the masculine side edges ahead, though the feminine share is far from small. As a whole it reads fresh and aquatic. Spindrift and laminaria give it a sea-like feel, while coriander seed adds a touch of spice. Green and sweet accords soften that coolness, and woody, resinous and smoky tones stay in the background. Gentle Fluidity (Silver) and Salina have a close profile.

Chypre rouge

6.4

Serge Lutens · 2006

Green · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Chypre rouge is a sweet, honeyed chypre with patchouli underneath, unisex and best suited to fall and winter evenings. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is worn most often in the evening and on nights out. It does not lean to one gender, with votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. It opens with thyme and pine needle, green and resinous. Jasmine, honey and beeswax sweeten the heart. The base of patchouli, amber, vanilla, musk and moss settles into an earthy, woody warmth.

Le participe passé

6.7

Serge Lutens · 2018

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Le participe passé pairs fruity notes with resins and balsam, making a sweet, spicy, lightly smoky unisex scent. The fruity notes set the sweetness, while the resins and balsam ground it in a woody, oriental, earthy base. The scent moves as a single block, its fruity sweetness softened by a spicy, smoky warmth underneath. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen more for evenings and nights out. Votes split between masculine and feminine, so it suits either. Serge Lutens Fille en aiguilles and Goti Essenze Smoke have a close profile.

Parole d'eau

7.5

Serge Lutens · 2022

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Serge Lutens Parole d'eau is a fresh, green unisex scent built around Siberian stone pine needle, lemon zest and eucalyptus. Most voters recommend spring and summer, and daily wear, leisure and work are the most chosen settings. Longevity and sillage are both rated moderate. Voters split almost evenly between masculine and feminine, so it sits comfortably on either. Lemon zest gives a bright citrus lift, while Siberian stone pine needle and eucalyptus add a cool, green edge. The fresh and aquatic accords lead, with spicy and woody tones staying in the background. It reads as one clean whole rather than a sequence of notes. Rituals The Ritual of Hammam and Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce Getaway have a close profile.

Sarrasins

7.9

Serge Lutens · 2007

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Sarrasins is a unisex floral that leans towards evenings and nights out, and towards fall and spring. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters suggest it for evening and night-out wear, while office and daily use stay in the background. It reads slightly more feminine than masculine, though a good share of votes call it masculine. Blossoms set the opening, then jasmine and carnation settle into the heart, with musk underneath. The accords are floral and sweet, with spicy, animal and powdery sides added. Serge Lutens Fils de joie and Al Rehab Jasmin Musk have a close profile.

La myrrhe

7.4

Serge Lutens · 1995

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Serge Lutens La myrrhe is a unisex scent in which myrrh, amber and sandalwood form a resinous warmth, lifted by aniseed and aldehydes. La myrrhe lasts well and projects at a moderate level. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind and summer rarely chosen. It suits evenings and nights out best, though it also works for leisure. Feminine and masculine votes are close, so it sits in the middle on gender. Myrrh, amber and sandalwood lay a sweet, woody, resinous base. Aniseed adds a spicy edge, while aldehydes and musk lighten the weight and give the scent a fresh, soft side. A floral note stays in the background.

L'Eau de Paille

6.9

Serge Lutens · 2016

Fresh · Green · Fruity

Serge Lutens L'Eau de Paille is a unisex scent built on frankincense, grain and vetiver, with a green, fresh character that suits spring and summer days. The notes read as one piece: grain lays down a dry, lightly sweet base, vetiver adds a green, woody line, and frankincense leaves a smoky, spicy shadow. Fruity and powdery touches soften the edges, and a synthetic sheen runs through it. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, office and leisure lead the occasions. It leans a little masculine, though plenty of voters read it as feminine. Montblanc Black Meisterstück and Diptyque Kyoto have a close profile.

Bois de Violette

7.8

Serge Lutens · 1992

Fresh · Floral · Green

Serge Lutens Bois de Violette pairs violet, cedar and cardamom into a fresh, green and powdery scent. It runs as one piece rather than in stages: the floral, powdery side of violet is held in check by dry cedar, while cardamom adds a light spicy sweetness. Fresh and green tones come forward, and the weight stays on the woody and spicy side. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it suits leisure time and evenings. Though unisex, voters lean towards reading it as feminine. Profumum Roma Luci dell'Est and Penhaligon's Violetta have a close profile.

Des clous pour une pelure

7.1

Serge Lutens · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Santal de Mysore

7.6

Serge Lutens · 1997

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore is a sweet, woody and resinous unisex scent that pairs sandalwood with spices, benzoin and styrax. The notes read as a single whole: sandalwood sits at the centre, while caraway and spices add a dry, gently warm edge. Benzoin and styrax soften it towards a resinous sweetness, and the animal accord adds depth in the background. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it wears comfortably on either. Karl Lagerfeld KL (Eau de Toilette) and Sospiro Deep Ocean Amber have a close profile.

Un lys

7.6

Serge Lutens · 1994

Fresh · Floral · Green

Serge Lutens Un lys is a fresh, floral unisex scent built around lily, vanilla and musk. The green, powdery side of the lily sits at the centre. Vanilla pulls it towards something creamy and sweet, while musk leaves a faintly animal warmth underneath. A touch of spice keeps the freshness from turning flat. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring, fall and summer, and lean towards evenings and nights out, then leisure time. Nearly half of voters read it as feminine, though it is sold as unisex. Rogue Jasmin Antique and Jo Malone Iris & White Musk have a close profile.

Poivre Noir

7.4

Serge Lutens · 2022

Fresh · Spicy · Woody

Serge Lutens Poivre Noir is a unisex scent built on cedar, Madagascan pepper and nutmeg, fresh and spicy over a woody base. Poivre Noir is rated good for both longevity and sillage. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter, with summer the least favoured. It suits leisure, evening and daily wear, and also works for business and nights out. Most voters read it as masculine, though it is classed as unisex. Spice leads: Madagascan pepper and nutmeg give it a sharp, warming edge, while cedar softens that with a dry woodiness. The freshness stays present, and resinous and smoky tones add a darker depth.

Encens et lavande

7.5

Serge Lutens · 1996

Fresh · Floral · Green

Serge Lutens Encens et lavande pairs frankincense, vanilla and lavender into a fresh, smoky and faintly sweet unisex scent. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as moderate. It is recommended most for fall and spring, and for leisure and evening wear. Masculine leads the character votes, though feminine is close behind, so it sits comfortably on either side. Frankincense gives it a resinous, smoky backbone, while lavender adds a fresh, green and floral lift. Vanilla softens the edges and adds a light sweetness, with spicy and woody tones staying in the background. Essenzialmente Laura Incenso delle Chiese di Roma and Hekate Albulaan have a close profile.

Veilleur de Nuit

8.0

Serge Lutens · 2016

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Serge Lutens Veilleur de Nuit is a unisex scent that pairs a sweet floral core with animalic warmth and a distinctly gourmand side. Tuberose and dark chocolate come forward together, while civet, castoreum and musk add an animalic, creamy depth and vetiver stays in the background as a dry, earthy edge. The overall impression is a spicy, powdery, resinous oriental with a gourmand streak: heavy, sweet and warm. It has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and the occasions that lead are evenings and nights out. Masculine and feminine votes are level, so it doesn't lean clearly to either side. Initio Absolute Aphrodisiac and Zara Femme (2013) have a close profile.

Bois oriental

7.8

Serge Lutens · 1992

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Serge Lutens Bois oriental is a sweet, spicy unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings best. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions, though leisure and daily wear are not far behind. Votes split evenly between masculine and feminine, so it sits comfortably on either. A fruity, gourmand sweetness runs through it. Honey and beeswax give that sweetness a soft, waxy texture, while spices and cedarwood add a dry, faintly smoky woodiness. Amber and musk gather it all into a warm, resinous base.

Boxeuses

7.5

Serge Lutens · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Boxeuses is a smoky, sweet and leathery unisex scent built around Russian leather, birch and resins. In Boxeuses, animalic notes and Russian leather form the backbone, while birch and resins add a smoky, woody weight. Plant juice softens that hard edge a little. The accords also include floral, fruity and sweet sides, so it reads as more than plain leather: spicy and gradually sweetening. Most voters pick fall and winter, rating the longevity as good and the sillage as moderate. It leans towards leisure, evenings and nights out. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it sits truly in between. Roja Parfums Qatar and Kemi Luna have a close profile.

Bois et fruits

7.7

Serge Lutens · 1992

Fresh · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits is a unisex scent that sets fig, plum, peach and apricot against cedarwood. The fruits lead: fig, plum, peach and apricot give a sweet, gourmand warmth. Cedarwood grounds that sweetness in a dry, woody base, while spicy, resinous and powdery touches add an oriental feel. The notes don't unfold in stages; the scent reads as a single whole from start to finish. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evening and daily wear. Though unisex, voters read it as somewhat more feminine.

L'Eau d'Armoise

7.1

Serge Lutens · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Rose de Nuit

7.5

Serge Lutens · 1993

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit is a unisex scent that leans towards autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening or a night out; daytime and office wear are chosen far less. Most call it feminine, though a fair share see it as masculine. Rose, musk and apricot make a sweet, fruity floral. Powdery and spicy touches add an oriental warmth, with resinous, leathery and animalic shades behind. The chypre structure makes it read dark and full rather than soft.

La fille tour de fer

7.4

Serge Lutens · 2024

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Serge Lutens La fille tour de fer is a fresh, powdery floral: rose and iris sit inside a sweet, lightly spicy and woody frame, and it is sold as a unisex scent. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring and fall, with winter and summer trailing behind. Leisure and evening wear lead the occasions. Nearly half of voters read it as feminine, while classic and modern each draw a smaller share. The notes read as one piece: iris, Turkish rose absolute and Bulgarian rose absolute carry the floral body, and pink pepper adds a light touch of spice. Sweetness and a powdery texture soften the rose, and the woody side stays in the background. Divine Spirituelle and Van Cleef & Arpels Lys Carmin have a close profile.

Une voix noire

7.6

Serge Lutens · 2012

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Une voix noire is a sweet, smoky unisex fragrance that sets a floral and spicy side on a dark, resinous base. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind, while summer gets very few votes. Evening and night out lead the occasions, and business wear is the least chosen. Most voters read it as feminine, though a fair share call it masculine. The notes read as one whole: tobacco, gardenia and rum. Floral and fruity accents bring the sweetness, woody and resinous accords add weight, and smoky, spicy tones give it a warm, oriental feel.