The Perfume Library

Un bois vanille

7.5

Serge Lutens · 2003

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Serge Lutens Un bois vanille is a sweet, gourmand unisex scent that most voters place in fall and winter, for evenings and nights out. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good, and most voters pick the cooler seasons over spring and summer. Voters read it as more feminine, though it is presented as unisex. Mexican vanilla forms the backbone; sandalwood gives it a woody base, while liquorice adds a spicy, slightly smoky edge. The overall impression is sweet, creamy and powdery, with an oriental warmth.

Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco

8.1

Amouage · 2022

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Amouage Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter evenings. The top notes of elemi resin, cardamom and bergamot set up a fresh spiciness, while tobacco absolute, Bulgarian rose and osmanthus absolute give the heart a soft, rounded sweetness. It dries down on benzoin, vanilla and tonka bean, with assam oud and birch tar adding a smoky, woody depth. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and favour evening and night-out wear. It reads more masculine than feminine. Perfumes with a close profile include Xerjoff Groove Xcape and Creed Oud Zarian.

Ege / Αιγαίο

7.5

Nishane · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Nishane Ege / Αιγαίο is a fresh, green unisex scent that pairs citrus and aquatic coolness with a spicy edge, and it suits warm weather and easygoing days best. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick summer and spring, and leisure, daily wear and the office are the most common settings. On character it leans masculine, with a modern streak. It opens with violet leaf, aniseed and yuzu, which gives an immediate cool bite. Mint, basil and green cardamom in the heart keep it green and lightly spiced. Liquorice and frankincense in the base soften it into a faintly sweet, resinous finish.

Oud Zarian

7.4

Creed · 2025

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Creed Oud Zarian is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex fragrance built around oud, myrrh and patchouli. It opens with spicy notes, ginger and bergamot alongside frankincense, then moves to Rosa centifolia in the heart. The base lays down a woody, resinous floor of oud, myrrh, sandalwood and patchouli, while tonka bean and liquorice root sweeten it. Longevity is very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it leans towards night-out and evening wear. It reads more masculine than feminine. Swiss Arabian Shaghaf Oud Abyad and The Dua Brand Tobac Aoud have a close profile.

Black Comme des Garçons

7.9

Comme des Garçons · 2013

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

Comme des Garçons Black Comme des Garçons is a smoky, spicy unisex scent that opens on Madagascar pepper and Somalian frankincense, then moves into liquorice, birch tar and leather. Pepper and frankincense lead at the start; in the heart, liquorice, birch tar, leather and Pepperwood™ give it a dry, resinous, earthy look. Cedarwood and vetiver sit underneath, and the overall character stays synthetic, woody and smoky. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out leading and leisure close behind. It reads somewhat more masculine to voters. Montale Greyland and Initio Divine Attraction have a close profile.

Eau Noire

7.1

Dior · 2004

Floral · Green · Sweet

Dior Eau Noire is a unisex scent where a green, sweet core is shadowed by spicy, smoky tones, and it suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with clary sage and white thyme, herbal and aromatic. Virginia cedar and lavender give the heart a woody frame, while liquorice, green stems and vanilla in the base spread a gourmand sweetness over the green. Floral and resinous sides stay in the background, and earthy, smoky tones darken the whole. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. It reads more masculine, though it is unisex. Serge Lutens Encens et lavande has a close profile.

Jeux de peau

6.6

Serge Lutens · 2011

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

10 Aomassaï

7.5

Pierre Guillaume · 2006

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Pierre Guillaume 10 Aomassaï is a unisex scent for fall and winter evenings, where a sweet gourmand side is balanced by smoky woods. It opens with coffee, caramel and roasted hazelnut, giving a dense, almost scorched sweetness. In the heart, frankincense, tolu balm, bitter orange and liquorice pull that sweetness towards spicy, resinous ground. In the base, hay, wenge wood and resins settle it into a woody, smoky finish. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening, night out and leisure are the most named occasions. Feminine and masculine votes are almost level, so it reads as truly unisex. Lattafa Raghba Wood Intense and LPDO Hash Intense have a close profile.

Yuzu

7.0

Acqua di Parma · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Acqua di Parma Yuzu is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent that carries the brightness of yuzu and bergamot into a floral heart and a soft, creamy base. Its longevity and sillage are both moderate, and most voters recommend summer and spring. Leisure, daily wear and the office are the most chosen settings. Votes for feminine and masculine are close, so it sits between the two. It opens with yuzu, Sichuan pepper and Calabrian bergamot, citrusy with a light spice. The heart brings lotus, jasmine and mimosa for a soft floral touch, while violet leaf adds a green edge. In the base, musk, liquorice and sandalwood settle it into a creamy, woody calm. Bon Parfumeur 003 Yuzu Feuilles de Violette Vétiver and Le Labo Limette 37 have a close profile.

Hexensalbe

7.9

Stora Skuggan · 2023

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Stora Skuggan Hexensalbe is a green, earthy unisex scent that leans towards autumn and winter, suited to leisure days and evenings out. Vermouth, salty notes and liquorice give a fresh, slightly bitter opening. In the heart, belladonna, tuberose, angelica and rosemary draw a green, spicy line. Patchouli, hemlock fir and lichen settle it onto a woody, resinous and earthy base. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn, winter and spring, and leisure and evening wear come first. Votes split between masculine and feminine, so it sits close to both sides. Anka Kuş Parfüm Absinthe-Minded and WienerBlut Panasch have a close profile.

Orange Crush

8.1

Parfums d'Elmar · 2026

Fresh · Citrus · Fruity

Parfums d'Elmar Orange Crush is a fresh, sweet citrus-and-fruit scent that suits men and women alike. Mandarin orange, grapefruit, lime and orange give it a sharp, lively citrus opening. In the heart, strawberry, passion fruit and banana bring a fruity sweetness, cranberry adds tartness and liquorice a spicy touch. Musk and amber soften the base. Most voters pick summer and spring. It leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office, and both its longevity and sillage are rated good. Votes for masculine and feminine are almost level. Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée and Bois 1920 Agrumi Amari di Sicilia have a close profile.

Legacy of Petra

7.5

Penhaligon's · 2022

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Penhaligon's Legacy of Petra is a sweet, spicy and resinous unisex scent in which liquorice, myrrh and vanilla take the lead. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is worn mostly for leisure, evenings and nights out. It sits between masculine and feminine, leaning neither way firmly. Bergamot, green tea and fennel seed give a cool opening. In the heart, liquorice, myrrh and cistus build a sweet, smoky warmth. The base deepens the gourmand side with vanilla and benzoin, while Belambre® adds a woody, oriental depth. Lattafa Pride Ajwaa and Roja Parfums Parfum de la Nuit 2 have a close profile.

41 Burlington Arcade

7.8

Atkinsons · 2017

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Atkinsons 41 Burlington Arcade is a fresh, lightly smoky unisex scent that balances citrus brightness with spice and wood. It opens with lemon, grapefruit and white pepper, while the heart of pimento, liquorice, nutmeg and cardamom adds a spicy sweetness. In the base, vetiver, musk, Indonesian patchouli and amber build a woody, faintly smoky footing. Green and floral touches soften the citrus. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick autumn and spring, with winter and summer close behind, and it suits leisure and business settings. It leans masculine but reads as unisex. Parfümerie Brückner Hirmer III and Gallivant Tokyo have a close profile.

Audace

8.1

Profumum Roma · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Profumum Roma Audace is a unisex scent built on bitter orange, liquorice, cedarwood and vetiver, where a citrusy, green freshness is softened by a sweet, woody base. Audace's longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and spring, with summer and winter further behind. Leisure, business and daily wear sit almost level, while evening and night out are chosen less often. It leans a little more masculine, though a fair share of voters call it feminine. Bitter orange brings a citrusy, fruity brightness, and liquorice adds a sweet, gourmand, slightly spicy note. Cedarwood and vetiver ground it in a woody, earthy base, while powdery and creamy tones take the edge off.

Rake & Ruin

6.8

Beaufort · 2018

Green · Spicy · Woody

Beaufort Rake & Ruin is a green, smoky and woody unisex scent that opens on juniper, gin and Sichuan pepper before settling into smoke, labdanum and dry woods. The top notes of juniper, gin, lemon and liquorice make a cool, spicy start; pine needle, cypress and violet bring a green, earthy tone to the heart. Castoreum and labdanum add an animalic, resinous, leathery weight, and in the base sandalwood, musk and smoke leave a soft but smoky finish. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear rather than summer heat or the office. Most voters read it as masculine. Boadicea the Victorious Salacious and Le Frag Grimmtale have a close profile.

Poivre Piquant

7.3

L'Artisan Parfumeur · 2002

Fresh · Sweet · Gourmand

L'Artisan Parfumeur Poivre Piquant is a unisex scent where spice meets sweetness in a gourmand, woody style; it has been discontinued. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring close behind. It leans towards leisure and daily wear. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Votes on whether it reads feminine or masculine are almost evenly split. The top is white, black and pink pepper, giving a dry, sharp spice at the start. In the heart, cinnamon, beeswax and liquorice sweeten that edge. The base of myrrh, honey, vanilla and sandalwood settles into a creamy, warm, woody softness.

Invigorating

7.6

Boadicea the Victorious · 2010

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating is a fresh, gourmand-leaning unisex scent that links citrus and floral brightness to the sweetness of dark chocolate and liquorice. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters point to fall and winter, with spring not far behind, and it is picked mainly for evening, nights out and leisure. Masculine and feminine votes are equal, so it sits comfortably between the two. It opens with Sicilian orange, bergamot and yuzu, bright and citrusy. Rose and jasmine add a soft floral heart. In the base, dark chocolate, amber and liquorice sweeten it and bring a resinous, slightly woody warmth. Al Haramain L'Aventure Blanche and Gritti Arancia Ambrata have a close profile.

Into the Void

7.6

Juliette Has A Gun · 2016

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

Juliette Has A Gun Into the Void is a sweet, woody and smoky unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with liquorice, then tonka bean and black orchid form the heart. In the base, gaiac wood, papyrus, patchouli and cedarwood add a dry, smoky, resinous weight. The floral and spicy sides are softened by a creamy sweetness. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it sits most comfortably in the evening or on a night out. Voters lean slightly feminine, though a good share call it masculine.

Vento nel Vento

7.6

Bois 1920 · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Bois 1920 Vento nel Vento is a sweet, spicy, resinous unisex scent that voters place mostly in fall and winter evenings. The top opens with peony, pink pepper and elemi resin, a floral start sharpened by spice. In the heart, frankincense, liquorice and white musk lead, with sweetness and resin dominating. The base of labdanum absolute, oud, benzoin, patchouli and sandalwood sets a woody, earthy and slightly smoky ground. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out the favored occasions; summer and office wear stay in the background. It reads slightly more masculine than feminine, though many vote feminine. Tom Ford Oud Fleur and Kilian Incense Oud have a close profile.

501 Praline Réglisse Patchouli

7.2

Bon Parfumeur · 2016

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Bon Parfumeur 501 Praline Réglisse Patchouli is a sweet, gourmand unisex scent that suits fall and winter days best. Bergamot and yuzu give a light freshness at the start, while hazelnut sets up the sweetness early. In the heart, liquorice, iris and praliné bring a creamy, spicy confectionery feel. Musk, patchouli and amber close it with a woody warmth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring in third place. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, though it also gets votes for business and daytime. Most voters read it as feminine, but it is classed as unisex. Nicolaï Saint Honoré and Pana Dora Moonlight have a close profile.

Gaya

7.3

Anfas · 2018

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Anfas Gaya is a unisex fragrance that ties fruity, gourmand sweetness to spice and wood, with a character that reads both masculine and feminine and spreads across spring to autumn. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick spring, then autumn, and lean towards leisure time and nights out. Votes for masculine and feminine are split evenly, so it pulls neither way. It opens with mango and pear for a sweet fruit start, while cardamom and aniseed add spice. In the heart, milk, liquorice, cedar and oud build a creamy, woody base. The base of amber, sweet notes, woods and iris closes it warm and oriental. Pantheon Sempre Mio and Sospiro Il Padrino have a close profile.

Havana Gold

7.9

Dries Van Noten · 2025

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Dries Van Noten Havana Gold is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters read it as masculine, though it works as a unisex scent. The top opens with liquorice, star anise and mandarin orange; benzoin, tobacco absolute and cinnamon form a sweet, resinous warmth in the heart. The base settles on leather, cypriol and roasted tonka bean, woody, leathery and smoky. For a close profile, see The Dua Brand Golden Swirls of Tobacco and Amouage Journey Man.

Eau de Cartier Vétiver Bleu

7.4

Cartier · 2015

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Cartier Eau de Cartier Vétiver Bleu is a fresh, green unisex vetiver scent with a touch of sweetness and spice, leaning towards spring and summer days. Its longevity and sillage are moderate, so it stays close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring and summer, then fall; daily wear, office and leisure lead the occasions. Most voters read it as masculine, though it works as unisex. It is built on vetiver and woody notes, with liquorice adding a soft sweetness and menthol a cool edge. Fresh and green accords dominate, balanced by earthy and woody sides, while spicy and synthetic tones stay in the background. Rituals No. 17 Vetiver & Bergamot and Korres Vetiver Root have a close profile.

Oud Deneii / Tabac Licorii

7.8

Maison Incens · 2014

Fresh · Floral · Spicy

Maison Incens Oud Deneii / Tabac Licorii is a smoky, spicy unisex scent that suits autumn and winter days. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall, then winter, and leisure and evening wear lead the occasions. It reads more masculine than feminine, though it stays unisex. Liquorice and aniseed open with a sweet, spicy edge. The heart holds violet and tobacco, the tobacco pulling the floral side towards something dry and smoky. In the base, amber, musk and Tonkin musk soften the scent, while marine notes lighten its weight. Woody, resinous and leathery accords round out its warm, oriental character.