The Perfume Library

Encens Suave (Eau de Parfum)

8.0

Matière Première · 2019

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Matière Première Encens Suave Eau de Parfum is a sweet, resinous and smoky unisex scent, warm and dense, suited to the evening. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring far behind. Evening and night out lead the occasions, while business and daily wear are chosen less. Most voters read it as masculine, though a fair number find it feminine. Spanish labdanum absolute, Bourbon vanilla absolute and Siam benzoin absolute build a sweet, soft base. Somalian frankincense carries the resinous, smoky side, and Venezuelan coffee adds a spicy, woody warmth. The notes don't unfold in stages; the scent reads as one whole from start to finish.

Crystal Saffron (Eau de Parfum)

7.5

Matière Première · 2022

Sweet · Synthetic · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Matière Première Crystal Saffron Eau de Parfum pairs Greek saffron with ambroxan and Somalian frankincense in a sweet, spicy and woody scent. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, followed by spring; night outs and evenings lead, though it also works for leisure time. More voters read it as masculine than anything else, yet it is made as a unisex perfume. It opens with Habanolide®, and at the heart Greek saffron carries the spicy, sweet side. In the base, ambroxan and Somalian frankincense settle it onto a resinous, smoky, woody ground, with synthetic and leathery touches in the background. Penhaligon's Terrible Teddy and Escentric Molecules Molecule 02 have a close profile.

Infusion d'Iris Cèdre

8.0

Prada · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Prada Infusion d'Iris Cèdre is a fresh, woody unisex scent built around Italian mandarin orange, Iris pallida and cedarwood; it has been discontinued. A citrusy, green freshness runs through it, backed by galbanum and Tunisian neroli. Iris pallida adds a powdery, creamy softness, while cedarwood, vetiver, Somalian frankincense and Siam benzoin settle it onto a spicy, woody base. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it leans towards daily, leisure and business wear. It does not read clearly masculine or feminine, with votes split almost evenly. Prada Infusion d'Iris and Prada Infusion d'Homme have a close profile.

Viking Cologne

7.3

Creed · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Creed Viking Cologne is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent that suits spring and summer days, with green and spicy touches from the fougère family. Calabrian bergamot, mandarin orange and Sicilian lemon open brightly, and pink pepper adds a light edge. In the heart, French lavender, sage and rosemary bring a green, herbal feel, while nutmeg softens it with spice. Patchouli, vetiver and cedarwood settle the scent onto a woody base. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it leans towards leisure, business and daily wear. Many voters find it masculine and classic, though it is sold as unisex. Creed Bois du Portugal and Acqua di Parma Colonia Futura have a close profile.

Nuit de Feu

7.1

Louis Vuitton · 2020

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Louis Vuitton Nuit de Feu is a smoky, resinous unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. The notes have no top, heart and base split; the scent reads as one whole. Leather, Assam oud, two kinds of frankincense and incense resin build a woody, spicy, smoky base, while ambrette seed and musk soften it and add an animal warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and evening or night out; spring and summer trail far behind. In the character votes masculine leads, with classic second. Boadicea the Victorious Intricate and Guerlain Cuir Intense have a close profile.

Bois d'Ascèse

7.7

Naomi Goodsir · 2012

Spicy · Woody · Resinous

Naomi Goodsir Bois d'Ascèse is a smoky, resinous and spicy unisex scent that suits cold-weather evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is worn mostly in the evening or on nights out. Though unisex, most voters read it as masculine. It opens with whisky and tobacco. The heart holds amber, cinnamon and labdanum, and the base of Somalian frankincense, smoked prickly cedar and oakmoss settles into a woody, earthy ground with a leathery edge. S.A.C.K.Y Qaaid and Beaufort Cœur de Noir have a close profile.

Black Comme des Garçons

7.9

Comme des Garçons · 2013

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

Comme des Garçons Black Comme des Garçons is a smoky, spicy unisex scent that opens on Madagascar pepper and Somalian frankincense, then moves into liquorice, birch tar and leather. Pepper and frankincense lead at the start; in the heart, liquorice, birch tar, leather and Pepperwood™ give it a dry, resinous, earthy look. Cedarwood and vetiver sit underneath, and the overall character stays synthetic, woody and smoky. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out leading and leisure close behind. It reads somewhat more masculine to voters. Montale Greyland and Initio Divine Attraction have a close profile.

Wood Jasmin

7.4

bdk Parfums · 2016

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

bdk Parfums Wood Jasmin is a floral, woody unisex scent that sets jasmine sambac and Egyptian jasmine absolute against the warmth of patchouli and vanilla. It opens with pear and plum, which give a fruity sweetness. In the heart, Egyptian jasmine absolute, jasmine sambac and Turkish rose absolute carry the floral side, while davana adds a spicy edge. The base of Indonesian patchouli, labdanum, Bourbon vanilla, frankincense and myrrh is resinous, smoky and sweet. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Voters read it as slightly more feminine than masculine, though both views have real support. Matière Première Encens Suave and Floraïku I Dream of Paris have a close profile.

Oud Palao

7.7

Diptyque · 2015

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Diptyque Oud Palao is a smoky, resinous unisex scent that most voters place in autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good; it leans towards evenings and nights out, and fewer voters pick it for summer or the office. Voters call it more masculine and classic, though a fair share find it feminine. As a whole it reads woody, spicy and earthy. Laotian oud, Ceylonese sandalwood and Indonesian patchouli form its backbone, while Somalian frankincense adds a resinous depth. Bulgarian rose and Bourbon vanilla soften the edges with a sweet, floral touch.

Dzongkha

7.3

L'Artisan Parfumeur · 2006

Floral · Green · Spicy

L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha is a unisex scent that opens floral and green, then darkens into spice, resin and smoke. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall, with spring and winter close behind, and it leans towards leisure and daytime wear. It reads slightly more masculine to voters, though a good share see it as feminine. The top holds lychee blossom, peony and cardamom, giving a floral, lightly spiced start. In the heart, vetiver, masala chai and Somalian frankincense add a smoky, resinous depth. The base of leather, papyrus and iris pallida settles into a woody, earthy and powdery finish.

Tubéreuse Impériale (Eau de Parfum)

7.6

bdk Parfums · 2016

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

bdk Parfums Tubéreuse Impériale Eau de Parfum is a powdery, creamy floral that keeps its tuberose warm and full against a sweet, spicy backdrop, and suits spring and autumn and everyday wear. It opens with Egyptian geranium and pink pepper, fresh and lightly spiced. In the heart, Indian tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and iris form a rounded floral, with the powdery, creamy side leading. In the base, Bourbon vanilla, sandalwood and benzoin sweeten and soften it. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and autumn, and it leans towards leisure, night out and daily wear. It is unisex, though most voters read it as feminine. Isabey Prends-moi and The Merchant Of Venice Imperial Emerald have a close profile.

Alkemi

7.4

Laboratorio Olfattivo · 2009

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Laboratorio Olfattivo Alkemi is a sweet, smoky, woody unisex scent built around amber and patchouli, with frankincense and myrrh in the heart. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure. Votes for masculine and feminine are equal, so it reads as truly in between. It opens with ylang-ylang and amber. In the heart, Indonesian patchouli, Atlas cedar, Somalian frankincense and myrrh form a woody, resinous core. The base of amber, sandalwood, cashmere wood and vanilla softens it into a warm, gourmand sweetness. Daniel Josier Ambre Tabac and Franck Boclet Amber have a close profile.

Mystic Incense

7.6

The Merchant Of Venice · 2018

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

The Merchant Of Venice Mystic Incense is a sweet, resinous unisex scent built around dried fruits, salted caramel and Somalian frankincense. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Votes for masculine and feminine are almost level, so it sits right in the middle. It opens with dried fruits and salted caramel, a gourmand sweetness. In the heart, blond woods and Somalian frankincense pull it towards woody, smoky and spicy ground. Cocoa absolute deepens the base and rounds it into a warm oriental. The balance of sweetness and resin gives it a profile close to Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (Eau de Parfum) and Tauer Perfumes Sundowner.

Patchouli Riviera / Mistral Patchouli

7.4

Atelier Cologne · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Atelier Cologne Patchouli Riviera / Mistral Patchouli is a unisex scent that sets a bright citrus freshness against a green, earthy woodiness, sharpened by spice. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, so it stays close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and the office are the most named settings. Voters lean toward reading it as masculine, though it works as a unisex scent. The top has Florida grapefruit, star anise and Madagascar pepper, the grapefruit giving freshness while the spices add a slight edge. In the heart come Iris tingitana, Somalian frankincense and Egyptian geranium. The base of Indonesian patchouli, Siam benzoin and Haitian vetiver settles the scent into earth and wood.

Wazamba

7.4

Parfum d'Empire · 2009

Green · Fruity · Sweet

Parfum d'Empire Wazamba is a woody, smoky unisex fragrance built on myrrh, frankincense and fir balsam, and it suits cool seasons and evenings best. Kenyan myrrh, Ethiopian opoponax and labdanum form a resinous, lightly sweet core, while Somalian frankincense and fir balsam absolute carry it into smoky territory. Apple adds a touch of fruit, and aldehydes and Moroccan cypress lend a green, clean edge. Indian sandalwood softens the woody base. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening or a night out, though it also works for leisure. Voters read it as somewhat more masculine, but it is a unisex scent. Sword Dancer and Habdan have a close profile.

Dent de Lait

6.7

Serge Lutens · 2017

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Serge Lutens Dent de Lait is a fresh, sweet and milky unisex scent that leans towards spring and relaxed leisure wear. Cashmeran, coconut, almond milk and Somalian frankincense read as one whole rather than separate layers. A fresh, floral side meets a powdery, creamy softness; the sweetness never turns heavy and stays in a milky texture, while the synthetic touch in the accords adds a clean look. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring, followed by summer and fall, and it suits leisure and daily wear best. Voters call it feminine more often than masculine, though plenty say masculine. Narciso Rodriguez For Her Pure Musc and Marc Jacobs Perfect have a close profile.

Terror & Magnificence

7.6

Beaufort · 2019

Green · Spicy · Woody

Beaufort Terror & Magnificence is a smoky, resinous unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with saffron, birch tar and black pepper, spicy and smoky from the first spray. The heart brings tobacco absolute, papyrus, kyphi and Somalian frankincense, and the dry-down settles on Haitian vetiver, myrrh, labdanum absolute and benzoin over an earthy, leathery base. Most voters pick winter and fall, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters read it as more masculine, though it works as a unisex scent. Montana Graphite and Costume National Secret Woods have a close profile.

Revolución

8.0

Carner · 2023

Fresh · Fruity · Sweet

Carner Revolución is a unisex scent that moves from a fresh, fruity start to a spicy, woody and leathery base. The top holds orange blossom, oxygen and thyme, so it opens fresh and lightly sweet. In the heart, maté, violet leaf and saffron push it toward a spicy, creamy feel. The base of Somalian frankincense, Texas cedar and leather settles into a woody, leathery finish. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most pick fall, then winter and spring, while summer trails behind. Leisure, evening and daily wear sit close together, and it reads more masculine than feminine. Costume National I and Majouri Jour 8 have a close profile.

Sacreste

7.8

Laboratorio Olfattivo · 2018

Green · Spicy · Woody

Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste is a unisex fragrance that moves from a green, spicy start into a smoky, resinous woodiness, and it suits cooler-season evenings. Cardamom, saffron and elemi resin set a dry, spicy tone at first. In the heart, frankincense and black pepper lead, while cypriol deepens the smoky side. Gaiac wood, Virginia cedar and musk then build a warm, woody base. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out. It reads masculine, though a fair share of voters find it feminine. Santa Maria Novella Incenso and Coreterno Hierba Nera have a close profile.

Ruby

8.4

Nebiru Parfvms · 2025

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Nebiru Parfvms Ruby is a unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings, with floral and spicy sides resting on a woody, resinous base; it has been discontinued. Ylang-ylang and red frangipani give it a floral warmth, while Ceylonese cinnamon, clove and Persian saffron sharpen that warmth with spice. Bourbon vanilla and rum sweeten it and add a creamy softness, and oud, sandalwood and ambergris build a smoky, woody, resinous depth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out. Character votes favour masculine, though a fair share read it as feminine. Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d'Iris and L'Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'Enfer Extrême have a close profile.

Île Bourbon

8.3

Fabbrica della Musa · 2024

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Fabbrica della Musa Île Bourbon is a unisex perfume built for cold weather and evenings out, sweet, gourmand and spicy, leaning towards winter and fall. It opens with Ceylonese cinnamon, Somalian frankincense, dark chocolate and caramel, where the warmth of the cinnamon meets the sweetness of the caramel. Clove, jasmine and Guatemala cardamom carry the spice through the heart. The base settles into chocolate, frankincense and Bourbon vanilla absolute, creamy, lightly smoky and woody. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Votes split between winter and fall, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Feminine and masculine votes are close, so it sits comfortably on either. Its profile is close to Filippo Sorcinelli Ascetic Vanilla and Nose of Gatsby Triple Vanilla.

Per Fumum: Ambra Luminosa

8.3

Annette Neuffer · 2016

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Annette Neuffer Per Fumum: Ambra Luminosa is a sweet, resinous unisex scent, with spice, wood and smoke keeping that sweetness warm and dark. Most voters recommend it for autumn and winter, and lean towards evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Masculine and feminine votes are almost level, so it sits comfortably on either side. It opens spicy, with cardamom, black pepper, bergamot and elemi resin. Towards the heart, tobacco, rose otto and frankincense come forward. In the base, myrrh, tonka bean, Bourbon vanilla and amber weigh in, and the scent sweetens and settles into a resinous warmth. Xerjoff Empiryan and Amouage Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco have a close profile.

London Harrods Exclusive

9.3

Widian · 2024

Green · Fruity · Sweet

Widian London Harrods Exclusive is a unisex scent that moves from a green, fruity start into a spicy, sweet and leathery base, and it leans towards evening and night-time wear. It opens with juniper berry, violet and pink pepper, giving a green and spicy first impression. In the heart, raspberry meets patchouli and Texas cedar, so the fruity sweetness settles onto a woody footing. The base of Somalian frankincense, oud, vanilla and leather pulls the scent towards a warm, leathery, oriental character. Longevity and sillage are both rated very strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, then spring, while summer trails far behind. It is chosen most often for nights out and evenings. Most voters read it as masculine, though some find it feminine. Widian London (Extrait de Parfum) and Kinetic Perfumes Sillage have a close profile.

Mortel

8.0

Trudon · 2017

Fresh · Spicy · Woody

Trudon Mortel is a spicy, resinous unisex scent with a smoky, woody character, leaning towards fall and winter days. It opens with the sharp warmth of black pepper and pimento; in the heart, Mystikal® and Somalian frankincense add a resinous depth. In the base, cistus absolute, myrrh and benzoin soften and sweeten it, while the fresh accord lightens the weight. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters recommend fall and winter, with spring not far behind. It suits leisure time and evenings, and voters read it as more masculine. Arte Profumi Samharam and Lorenzo Villoresi Incensi have a close profile.