The Perfume Library

Mongolian Mriga

8.8

Prin · 2023

Green · Spicy · Woody

Prin Mongolian Mriga is a green, spicy and woody unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Oakmoss, pine balsam and galbanum set a green, resinous base. Cinnamon and cumin bring the spice, while oud and pine tar add a smoky, woody weight. Animalic notes and Mongolian musk push it towards leather and earth, with jasmine and rose staying in the background. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and summer barely features. Evening and leisure lead the occasions, and it reads closer to masculine. Memo Paris Iberian Leather and Caron Yatagan have a close profile.

Exquisite Musk

8.0

Yves Saint Laurent · 2016

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Yves Saint Laurent Exquisite Musk is a unisex scent built on musk, patchouli and oud, with rose and spice resting on a sweet, powdery base. After an opening of ginger, the heart brings rose, cinnamon and nutmeg to the front. The base gathers musk, patchouli, labdanum, oud and benzoin, and the animalic notes give it a warm, creamy, slightly oriental feel. The floral and sweet sides dominate, balanced by spice and woody tones. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads a little more feminine, though it suits men as well. Monolab Black Star and Régalien Kashmeran have a close profile.

Boxeuses

7.5

Serge Lutens · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Boxeuses is a smoky, sweet and leathery unisex scent built around Russian leather, birch and resins. In Boxeuses, animalic notes and Russian leather form the backbone, while birch and resins add a smoky, woody weight. Plant juice softens that hard edge a little. The accords also include floral, fruity and sweet sides, so it reads as more than plain leather: spicy and gradually sweetening. Most voters pick fall and winter, rating the longevity as good and the sillage as moderate. It leans towards leisure, evenings and nights out. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it sits truly in between. Roja Parfums Qatar and Kemi Luna have a close profile.

True Lust - Rayon Violet de ses Yeux

7.0

Etat Libre d'Orange · 2015

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Etat Libre d'Orange True Lust - Rayon Violet de ses Yeux is a creamy, sweet floral-gourmand built on violet, jasmine and rose absolute, aimed at women; it has been discontinued. Florals lead: violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang and rose absolute give it a powdery, creamy feel. Coconut and rum add sweetness, ginger brings a spicy touch, and leather and animalic notes add a darker depth. Amber and sandalwood form a warm, woody base. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters place it in autumn and spring, for evenings and nights out, and the largest share reads it as feminine.

Oud Khasian

7.2

ArteOlfatto - Luxury Perfumes · 2014

Fresh · Green · Sweet

ArteOlfatto Oud Khasian is a spicy, woody unisex fragrance led by oud, saffron and sandalwood. Saffron, cardamom, black pepper and pink pepper give it a spicy edge, while oud, sandalwood and vetiver build a woody, earthy frame. Patchouli and labdanum add a resinous depth, and tonka bean with vanilla sweeten the dryness. Animalic notes, musk and ambergris lend a leathery, oriental character, while fresh and green accords lighten the weight. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall, followed by winter and spring, with summer well behind. It suits leisure time, evenings and nights out. Though unisex, most voters read it as masculine.

The Lobster

7.2

Moth and Rabbit · 2016

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

Moth and Rabbit The Lobster opens with green notes, lily of the valley and cypriol, a watery, earthy and woody unisex scent. Green notes and lily of the valley give it a fresh, aquatic start, while cypriol adds a spicy edge. The heart brings leaf green, cedarwood and aquatic notes forward. The base of myrrh, humus, moss and animalic notes pulls it toward an earthy, slightly synthetic character. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, followed by fall and summer, and it leans toward leisure and daily wear. Masculine and feminine votes are close, so it reads as truly unisex. Dsquared² He Wood and Moth and Rabbit Parasite have a close profile.

Violet Delirium

7.4

Aaron Terence Hughes · 2020

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Aaron Terence Hughes Violet Delirium is a unisex scent for autumn and winter evenings, with sweet, spiced florals hardened by oud; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, then spring, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions. Votes split between masculine and feminine, so it sits comfortably in between. Saffron opens with a spicy start. In the heart, jasmine absolute, rose absolute and chocolate build a floral, sweet creaminess. The base of Burmese and Thai oud, musk, ambergris, soil and animalic notes adds a leathery, woody, powdery weight.

Manteuse

7.6

Stéphane Humbert Lucas · 2018

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Manteuse is a unisex fragrance that sets a floral, sweet body against leather, resin and animalic notes; it has been discontinued. It opens with honey, Italian bergamot and white blossoms. The heart holds orris root, leather, cistus, vanilla and sandalwood, where the powdery, leathery side comes forward. In the base, musk, styrax, patchouli and animalic notes leave it resinous, spicy and woody. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Voters pick fall and spring most, and lean towards evenings and nights out. Feminine and masculine votes sit close together, so it reads both ways. Its profile is close to Francesca Bianchi Cuir Soyeux and Dorin Bureau du Roi.

Womanity - Le Goût du Parfum

8.0

Mugler · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Mugler Womanity - Le Goût du Parfum pairs fig with seawater in a fresh, citrusy and slightly sweet women's fragrance. It has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter and summer not far behind. It leans towards daily and leisure wear and reads feminine, though some also take it out for the evening or night. It opens with green notes, citrus fruits and fig chutney. The heart brings together fig, seawater and caviar, with animalic notes adding a salty, odd depth. In the base, vetiver, cedar, everlasting flower and opoponax lay down a woody, lightly spicy floor. The fresh, aquatic side is balanced by a sweet, gourmand streak. Kenzo L'Eau Kenzo Intense pour Homme and Versace Blue Jeans have a close profile.

Wild Carrot Oud

5.7

Bohoboco · 2022

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

Bohoboco Wild Carrot Oud is a spicy, woody, smoky unisex scent where cinnamon, carrot and oud meet leather and earth. It opens with cinnamon, bergamot and carrot; in the heart, cedarwood, oud and dry woods build a woody frame. The base leans on leather, animalic notes, soil, tobacco and styrax, settling into a resinous, earthy, smoky character, with a synthetic sheen running through the accords. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it suits leisure time, evenings and nights out. It reads more masculine, though it is unisex. Montale Aoud Cuir d'Arabie and Rasasi Ashaar pour Homme have a close profile.

Trouble in Paradise

8.4

Memoirs of a Perfume Collector · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Fruity

Memoirs of a Perfume Collector Trouble in Paradise is a unisex fragrance that leans towards spring and summer days, opening fresh and fruity before settling into a sweet, woody base. Cognac, mango, bergamot and cardamom give the top a fresh, citrusy, lightly spicy start. In the heart, caramel, leather, violet and rum bring sweetness and a creamy feel; the base of ambroxan, oud, sandalwood and amber is woody, with moss and animalic notes adding depth. Voters find its longevity strong and its sillage good. Most pick spring and summer, and it suits leisure, nights out, daily wear and evenings. Masculine and modern votes lead on character, with feminine not far behind. Chanel Allure Homme Édition Blanche and Initio Paragon have a close profile.

Nesnás Qareen

8.2

Parfum Prissana · 2019

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Parfum Prissana Nesnás Qareen is a spicy, sweet and smoky unisex fragrance that has been discontinued; its warm, resinous, leathery character suits those who like rich scents. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards leisure, evening and night-out wear. It reads somewhat more masculine than feminine, though feminine votes are substantial, so it works for either. Cinnamon, saffron, cumin and nutmeg make up the spice, while dried apricot, date and halva bring the sweetness. Leather, tobacco, labdanum and frankincense lay a resinous, smoky base beneath, and the fire and ash notes add a burnt, earthy edge. The fruity sweetness and the animalic, leathery side keep each other in balance.

Vintage Collection - Ambra

7.1

Lorenzo Villoresi · 2014

Fresh · Sweet · Spicy

Lorenzo Villoresi Vintage Collection - Ambra is a resinous, spicy unisex scent that opens with cistus, elemi resin and cardamom and settles on amber, sandalwood and musk. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening, leisure and night-out wear lead the occasions. The largest share of voters reads it as masculine, though a fair number call it feminine. It opens with green citrus fruits and galbanum alongside the cistus and elemi, which keeps it fresh at first. In the heart, clove, nutmeg, pepper and myrrh build a spicy warmth, with frankincense and labdanum adding a resinous weight. The base of amber, sandalwood and musk is sweet and woody, while animalic notes leave a faintly smoky trace in the background.

Signature Blue

6.2

bugatti Fashion · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

bugatti Fashion Signature Blue is a fresh, citrusy men's scent that suits spring and summer, and works for leisure, daytime and the office. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated weak, so it stays close to the skin and keeps a quiet presence. Most voters pick spring and summer, and few choose winter. It reads as masculine and modern. It opens with aquatic notes, fig, grapefruit and bergamot, light and airy. Towards the heart, black pepper, patchouli and violet leaf add a spicy, woody edge. In the base, saffron, tonka bean and frankincense bring sweetness and warmth. Versace Versace pour Homme Dylan Blue and Armaf Bucephalus No. IX have a close profile.

Chypre Isli

7.6

Maison Incens · 2017

Citrus · Floral · Fruity

Maison Incens Chypre Isli is a unisex scent that sets a bright opening of mandarin orange and bergamot over an earthy, woody base of oakmoss, patchouli and sandalwood. Voters rate both its longevity and its sillage as good. Most pick autumn and winter, with spring a close third and summer well behind. It is chosen mainly for evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure time. Votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine, so it sits in the middle of the gender line. Mandarin orange and bergamot give the top a citrus lift. In the heart, spices, iris, ylang-ylang and frankincense build a floral, spicy, resinous layer. The base of patchouli, oakmoss, cedarwood and animalic notes pulls the scent towards earthy, woody ground.

Valeria

7.0

Harry Lehmann

Fresh · Floral · Green

Harry Lehmann Valeria is a fresh, green, floral fougère with a powdery, woody character, made for both men and women. Jasmine and violet form a floral core, while mandarin orange and fresh notes lift it. Amber and sandalwood sweeten and soften the blend, with cedarwood, vetiver and patchouli adding a woody base. Leather and animalic notes stay in the background and give it depth. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, followed by fall and summer. It leans towards leisure, daytime and office wear, and most voters read it as masculine, though some find it feminine. Balmain Ivoire and Nobile 1942 Fougère Nobile have a close profile.

Regal

7.2

Boadicea the Victorious · 2011

Floral · Green · Spicy

Boadicea the Victorious Regal is a unisex scent for autumn and winter evenings, where floral and spicy tones meet a woody, animalic base. Summer fruits sit on top, but the scent really forms in the heart, where jasmine, rose and violet absolute lie alongside saffron and herbs. The base is led by patchouli, sandalwood, cedarwood and amber, and the animalic notes give it a powdery, resinous and slightly smoky depth. Voters rate both its longevity and its sillage as good. Most pick autumn and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions, while summer is the least chosen season. Masculine and feminine votes are level, so it reads comfortably either way. Perfumes with a close profile include By Terry Terryfic Oud L'Eau and Montale Aoud Roses Petals.

U.M.B.R.E.

7.3

Adi ale Van · 2021

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Adi ale Van U.M.B.R.E. is a sweet, gourmand and spicy unisex scent built around animalic notes, cypriol, coffee and tobacco; it has been discontinued. It opens with animalic notes and davana. Towards the heart, cypriol, coffee and benzoin join in, giving it a creamy, resinous and woody feel. In the base, tobacco and myrrh temper the sweetness with a dry, spicy edge. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also suits leisure time. Voters split between masculine and feminine. Zoologist Chipmunk and Paris Corner Cognac Blaze have a close profile.

Aira

8.2

Sospiro · 2025

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Sospiro Aira is a unisex scent built around patchouli, frankincense and oud, sweet, spicy and smoky in character. Aira is a heavy, long-lasting scent: its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Its dense build suits cooler weather and evenings, and it sits between masculine and feminine. It opens with patchouli, amber and frankincense, joined by oriental notes. The heart brings cumin, labdanum and earthy notes, adding a spicy, resinous depth. The base of oud, ambergris and animalic notes pushes it towards a leathery, smoky finish. Dior Fahrenheit Absolute and Amouage Interlude Man have a close profile.

Parfum Couture - Denis Durand for M. Micallef

7.7

M. Micallef · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

M. Micallef Parfum Couture - Denis Durand for M. Micallef is a warm, oriental floral built on sweet, spicy and animalic tones, classed as a women's perfume and best suited to autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening and night-out wear lead while office and daily use trail behind. It is mostly seen as feminine, followed by classic. It opens with Italian mandarin orange and Ceylonese cinnamon. In the heart, orange blossom, honey, Bulgarian rose and animalic notes form a sweet, dense floral core. The base of patchouli, sandalwood, amber and musk settles into a woody, resinous warmth.

Ma Bête

7.9

Eris Parfums · 2016

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Eris Parfums Ma Bête is a floral, spicy unisex scent in which neroli, Indian nutmeg and jasmine sambac meet animalic notes. It opens with aldehydes, Indian nutmeg and Tunisian neroli. In the heart, Honduras styrax, nagarmotha and Indian jasmine sambac form a resinous, earthy floral core. The base of Virginia cedar, animalic notes and Indonesian patchouli leaves a woody, powdery warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall, winter and spring, with summer well behind. It is mostly worn in the evening or on a night out. Voters read it as slightly more feminine, though it stays unisex. Malbrum Shameless Seducer and Diptyque Oud Palao have a close profile.

Rumba (2009)

7.1

Ted Lapidus · 2009

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Ted Lapidus Rumba is a floral, fruity chypre with sweet, spicy and powdery sides, made for women and chosen mostly for evenings and nights out. It opens with basil, green notes, bergamot and rose, a green and floral start. In the heart, orange blossom, jasmine, mirabelle plum and oakmoss soften the floral sweetness with fruit. The base of patchouli, amber, sandalwood and animalic notes carries it into a woody, oriental warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, though spring is not far behind. It leans towards evening and night-out wear, and most voters read it as feminine and classic. Dali and Magie have a close profile.

Oud Rain

7.8

Renier Perfumes · 2017

Fresh · Fruity · Sweet

Renier Perfumes Oud Rain is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, fruity start with a spicy, woody and resinous oud character. The top is sweet and juicy with papaya, mango, pineapple and mandarin orange, while plum and cypress cool it slightly. In the heart, oud, sandalwood, nutmeg and saffron come forward, and the base deepens with oud, cistus, cedar and animalic notes. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters suggest spring and fall, and evening, leisure and night-out wear lead the occasions. Masculine and feminine votes sit very close together, so it reads comfortably on either side. Oud Rain Tropical Storm and Aaron Terence Hughes Oud Noir have a close profile.

German Angst Zwei

7.4

Art Brüt · 2024

Fresh · Green · Fruity

Art Brüt German Angst Zwei is a fresh, green and spicy unisex scent that suits spring and summer days, daytime wear and the office. It opens with pink pepper, mandarin orange and bergamot, then moves into juniper, fig, peppermint and elemi resin. Cashmere wood, woods and patchouli make up the base, with a faint touch of animalic notes. The fresh, green and fruity side leads, with a synthetic and woody streak alongside. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall; daily, leisure and business wear lead, while night out and evening come well behind. It reads somewhat masculine, though its modern character works for anyone. Dior Dior Homme and Sospiro Mezzo have a close profile.