The Perfume Library

Dunhuang / 敦煌

7.9

Parfum Prissana · 2022

Citrus · Floral · Fruity

Parfum Prissana Dunhuang / 敦煌 is a sweet but shadowed unisex scent that sets citrus and flowers against spice and smoke. Mandarin orange, tangerine and kumquat form a bright citrus base, while jasmine absolute, osmanthus and magnolia add floral sweetness with a touch of plum. Cinnamon, cumin and black pepper bring the spice forward, and incense and Lapsang Souchong tea carry a smoky edge. Sandalwood, cedar and amber give a warm woody ground, and civet leaves an animalic trace. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and leisure time. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it sits comfortably on either. Chanel Allure Homme (Eau de Toilette) and Dior Poison (Esprit de Parfum) have a close profile.

Very Valentino for Men (Eau de Toilette)

7.1

Valentino · 1999

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Eau de Toilette

Valentino Very Valentino for Men Eau de Toilette is a spicy, woody masculine scent built on sage, nutmeg and coriander, carried by tobacco and lavender; it has been discontinued. It opens with sage, nutmeg, coriander and aniseed, which give it a spicy, fresh air. The heart holds caraway, tobacco, carnation and lavender, while musk, sandalwood, cedar, amber and resins settle it onto a woody, slightly sweet base. Fresh, floral and fruity touches soften the spice. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, and daytime wear leads, followed by leisure and business. It reads masculine. Montblanc Individuel and Versace Blue Jeans have a close profile.

Oscent Black

7.2

Alexandre.J · 2012

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Alexandre.J Oscent Black is a sweet, spicy and resinous woody-smoky men's fragrance that suits autumn and winter evenings. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is worn for evenings and nights out as well as leisure. It reads mostly masculine, with a classic edge. It opens with ginger and aniseed, then turns woody and smoky through tobacco, frankincense, patchouli and cedarwood. Vanilla, labdanum and musk soften the base and add sweetness. Xerjoff Groove Xcape and Penhaligon's The Blazing Mister Sam have a close profile.

Aimez-Moi (2013)

7.1

Caron · 2013

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Caron Aimez-Moi opens with bergamot, violet and aniseed, then moves through peach, iris and jasmine in a fresh, floral women's scent. The top is bright bergamot with violet and aniseed. The heart brings peach, magnolia, iris, jasmine and vanilla, where fruity sweetness is softened by a powdery floral side. The base of musk, woods and amber dries down woody and warm. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, followed by fall and summer; it leans towards daily wear and evenings, and suits the office too. It reads clearly feminine. Jil Sander Style and Caron Aimez-Moi (1996) (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

Vamos

7.5

Harry Lehmann

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Cédrat Céruse

8.0

L'Artisan Parfumeur · 2022

Fresh · Citrus · Green

L'Artisan Parfumeur Cédrat Céruse is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent, its green and spicy edges softened by a creamy finish. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring and summer, with winter well behind. Leisure, daily wear and the office are the occasions named most often. It doesn't lean clearly masculine or feminine, as votes split fairly evenly between the two. Lemon leads, while fennel, aniseed and coriander add a light green, spicy edge. Pink pepper brings a dry warmth, and musk smooths everything into a creamy base.

Effusion Man (Eau de Toilette)

5.8

Iceberg · 2001

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Iceberg Effusion Man Eau de Toilette is a fresh, citrusy, lightly aquatic men's scent that opens with black pepper, aniseed and grapefruit; it has been discontinued. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, leisure and business are the settings named most often. Longevity is rated moderate and sillage weak; most voters call it masculine, and some find it modern. It opens with the spice of black pepper and aniseed alongside the brightness of grapefruit, lime and apple. In the heart, white freesia, rose and orange blossom add a soft floral touch. The base rests on liquorice, cedar, patchouli, sandalwood and musk, which give it a woody footing. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò pour Homme and Versace Blue Jeans have a close profile.

No. 1

6.7

Eutopie · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Eutopie No. 1 is a unisex fragrance that opens with aniseed, jasmine and rose, carries cedar, tobacco and sandalwood at its heart, and moves from a fresh, floral start to a spicy, woody finish. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters point to spring and fall, with leisure, daily wear and business the occasions named most often. Close to half of voters read it as feminine, a quarter as masculine. Up top, aniseed, jasmine and rose pair freshness with a sweet floral touch. In the heart, cedar, tobacco and sandalwood pull it towards a spicy, woody side. Amber and musk close the sweetness with a powdery, oriental warmth underneath. Montale Intense Roses Musk and Montale Roses Musk (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Red Line (Eau de Toilette)

6.6

La Rive

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

La Rive Red Line Eau de Toilette is built around bergamot, pineapple and apple, giving a fresh, citrusy, lightly woody scent made for men. Most voters pick spring and summer, and they link it to leisure and daily wear, with some votes for the office and sport. Longevity and sillage are both rated weak, so it stays close to the skin and quiet. Most voters call it masculine, and some find it modern. It opens with bergamot, lemon, pineapple and apple, which read fruity and bright. Lily of the valley, ozonic notes and aniseed sit in the heart, and patchouli, musk and cedarwood settle into a sweetish, woody base. Aquatic and spicy touches show in the accords.

Canvas

6.1

Der Duft · 2022

Fresh · Floral · Green

Der Duft Canvas is a fresh, green unisex scent that most voters place in spring and summer, for leisure and everyday wear. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters lean towards spring, fall and summer, with winter well behind, and name leisure, daily wear and the office as the usual settings. They read it as equally masculine and feminine. The scent as a whole is fresh, floral and green. Rose, peony and geranium carry the floral side, while green apple, raspberry and rhubarb add fruit. Honey and liquorice sweeten it, pink pepper and basil bring a spicy, green edge, and vetiver and patchouli give it an earthy base.

Delapure

8.1

Birkholz · 2023

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Birkholz Delapure is a unisex scent that sets a floral, fruity opening against a sweet, gourmand and powdery texture. Rose, almond, aniseed and plum lead at the top, while freesia, cistus and liquorice in the heart bring a spicy, lightly sweet turn. The base of tobacco, vanilla, cashmere and orcanox closes it with a creamy, oriental warmth. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind. It suits evenings and nights out as readily as daily and office wear. Longevity and sillage are rated good, and the feminine and masculine votes sit close together.

#La Isla Blanca (Eau de Toilette)

7.7

Ramón Monegal · 2018

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Ramón Monegal #La Isla Blanca Eau de Toilette opens with aldehydes, ginger and aniseed, then moves into salty notes and flowers; it is a fresh unisex scent that has been discontinued. It opens on aldehydes, ginger and aniseed, and the heart brings heliotrope, salty notes, almond blossom and jasmine. White musk, patchouli and tonka bean soften the base and add a light sweetness. The overall impression is fresh, citrusy and aquatic, with floral and fruity touches in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick summer and spring, with leisure and daily wear leading, followed by evening and office. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it sits between the two. Parfums Vintage Puissant and Federico Mahora FM 327 have a close profile.

Life by Esprit for Men (2003)

5.8

Esprit · 2006

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Esprit Life by Esprit for Men is a fresh, citrusy men's fragrance that suits spring and summer days, leisure and everyday wear; it has been discontinued. It opens with green apple, red grapefruit and caipirinha, giving a fresh, citrusy, aquatic character. Lavender, rosemary, aniseed and nutmeg come forward in the heart, while patchouli, teakwood and white amber lay a woody base. The fruity, sweet side is balanced by green tones. Longevity and sillage are rated weak, so it stays close to the skin as a light scent. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and business are the most named occasions. It reads masculine and modern. Its profile is close to Jesus del Pozo Quasar and Moschino Forever Sailing.

Excellence Intense

7.9

Jaguar · 2012

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Jaguar Excellence Intense is a men's fragrance that suits autumn and winter evenings, pairing fresh citrus with spice and vanilla sweetness. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions, while summer comes last. Most voters read it as masculine. It opens with aniseed, Sichuan pepper, cardamom and mandarin orange, a sharp, spicy freshness. Orange blossom, iris, violet and marine notes then add a soft floral touch. In the base, vanilla, amber and tonka bean settle into a sweet, gourmand, oriental warmth. Jaguar Excellence and Zara Vanilla Vibration have a close profile.

Absinthe-Minded

7.5

Anka Kuş Parfüm · 2019

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Anka Kuş Parfüm Absinthe-Minded is a unisex scent built on a fresh, green accord, with spice, woody notes and resin laid over it. It opens with aniseed, vermouth, absinth and fennel, a cool, spicy start. The heart brings woody notes, patchouli and Kashmiri musk, giving the scent an earthy, soft footing. In the base, amber and oakmoss leave a sweet, resinous warmth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it leans towards leisure, evening and daily wear. It reads slightly more masculine than feminine, though feminine votes are strong too. Stora Skuggan Hexensalbe and L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe have a close profile.

Aqua Oud

8.3

Ahmed Al Maghribi

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Ahmed Al Maghribi Aqua Oud is a unisex scent that sets the coolness of bergamot and marine notes against a dry, woody base of vetiver and patchouli. The top pairs bergamot with marine notes for a fresh, citrusy, aquatic opening. In the heart, geranium, sage, aniseed and rosemary add a spicy, herbal edge. The base of vetiver, patchouli, frankincense, moss, ambroxan and white musk settles into a woody, resinous finish. Voters find both longevity and sillage strong. Votes gather around leisure, daily wear and the office, with evening and night out chosen less often. Its profile is close to Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò Profumo and Armaf Odyssey Nexus.

Semi-Bespoke 10

9.0

Roja Parfums

Citrus · Floral · Fruity

Roja Parfums Semi-Bespoke 10 is a unisex chypre-oriental that opens bright with citrus and flowers, then settles into a resinous, spicy, woody base with a touch of smoke; it has been discontinued. Aldehydes, bergamot and mandarin orange give it a bright opening. In the heart, violet, May rose, peach and Grasse jasmine add a soft, fruity floral layer. The base is dominated by frankincense, oakmoss, castoreum, vanilla and myrrh, with spice and powdery tones adding a sweet, leathery depth. Voters find both its longevity and its sillage strong. Most pick fall and winter, with spring close behind and summer least favoured. It reads as dense and rich, equally at home on men and women. Roja Parfums Diaghilev and Qatar have a close profile.

Labyrinth of Spices

7.4

Alghabra · 2019

Fresh · Green · Fruity

Alghabra Labyrinth of Spices is a unisex fragrance that opens green and fresh, then moves into a spicy, sweet and woody character. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring second and summer well behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure time. Voters read it as somewhat more masculine, but a good number call it feminine. The top holds galbanum, mocha, pineapple and tobacco, which gives the green and fruity side. The heart is made of clove, aniseed, nutmeg, cardamom and cinnamon, with tonka bean and lavender. In the base, vetiver, amber, sandalwood, cedarwood, musk and oakmoss settle it onto a woody, resinous ground. Snob Classic and Montblanc Présence (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

Era

7.1

Jaguar · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Jaguar Era is a fresh, citrusy fragrance for men that sets a bright opening of lemon, bergamot and mandarin orange against lavender and cardamom over a woody base. The three citrus notes lead. In the heart, lavender, cardamom, geranium and pepper bring a spicy, floral edge, softened by the fruity sweetness of pineapple and mojito. As it dries, musk, sandalwood, patchouli and cedar settle into a woody, lightly sweet base. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn close behind. It leans towards leisure, business and daily wear, and most voters find it masculine. Carolina Herrera Chic for Men and Chanel Allure Homme have a close profile.

Flame

7.1

Wacken · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Wacken Flame is a fresh, fougère-style men's fragrance that leans towards everyday wear from spring through autumn. Most voters pick it for leisure, daily wear and the office, with spring, autumn and summer nearly level. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters read it as masculine and classic. Aniseed, neroli and bergamot give a fresh, citrusy opening. In the heart, lavender, sage and geranium set the fougère frame. Tonka bean sweetens the base, while patchouli and oakmoss add a green, earthy ground. Floral and spicy touches sit among the accords. Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme and Le Labo Lavande 31 have a close profile.

803 Embruns Gingembre Patchouli

6.8

Bon Parfumeur · 2023

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

Bon Parfumeur 803 Embruns Gingembre Patchouli is a fresh, aquatic and spicy unisex scent in which ginger and patchouli meet sea air. It opens with juniper berry, ginger and pink pepper, a sharp, spicy start. In the heart, ylang-ylang, spindrift and aniseed move it towards a salty freshness. The base of algae, patchouli and ambergris keeps the green, aquatic feel to the end. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick summer and spring, with autumn not far behind. It leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office, and it reads more masculine than feminine. Its profile is close to Brise Marine and Beach Bizarre.

Suédois

7.2

Euphorium Brooklyn · 2015

Fruity · Spicy · Woody

Euphorium Brooklyn Suédois is a unisex scent that sets a fruity, spicy start on a woody, resinous and leathery base, with a faint smokiness. The notes read as one whole: cardamom, aniseed and nutmeg carry the spice, while raspberry and grape add a fruity sweetness. Suede, oakmoss and birch tar give it a leathery, earthy, smoky edge, softened by benzoin and vanilla cream. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind, and it leans towards evenings, leisure and nights out. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads as genuinely in between. Anatole Lebreton Uruk and Calaj The Last PH have a close profile.

Spiced Green Tea

7.2

Elizabeth Arden · 2001

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Elizabeth Arden Spiced Green Tea is a fresh, green and lightly spiced women's fragrance built around tea, ginger and cardamom, suited to relaxed spring and autumn days. It opens cool and citrusy with aniseed, lemon, lemon vervain, rhubarb and ginger. Tea, cardamom and jasmine form the heart, keeping the green and spicy sides moving together. Labdanum, patchouli, sandalwood and frankincense settle the base into a sweet, woody floor. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin. Most voters pick spring and autumn, with summer close behind, and leisure, daily wear and office come up most often. More voters call it feminine than masculine, though a fair share read it as masculine. It has been discontinued.

Francesco Smalto (Eau de Toilette)

8.3

Francesco Smalto · 1987

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Francesco Smalto Eau de Toilette is a classic masculine fougère that pairs the freshness of lavender and citrus with the smoky, earthy tones of leather, patchouli and oakmoss; it has been discontinued. It opens with lavender, rosemary, bergamot and tarragon, giving a green, spicy freshness. In the heart, cedar, patchouli and carnation lead and set the scent on a woody, earthy footing. The base leaves a resinous, slightly smoky character through leather, amber, musk and oakmoss. Voters rate its longevity as good and its sillage as moderate, and favour fall and spring, then winter. Use is spread fairly evenly between business, daily wear and evenings. Half of voters find it masculine, and many call it classic. Charles Jourdan Un Homme and Laura Biagiotti Biagiotti Uomo have a close profile.