The Perfume Library

Blacks Club Leather

7.4

Shay & Blue · 2014

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Shay & Blue Blacks Club Leather is a sweet, spicy and smoky leather scent, unisex, that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens on English leather, and brandy in the heart adds a warm, sweet turn. The base of firewood, mahogany and beeswax settles into a woody, resinous and smoky character, with an oriental sweetness running underneath. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, mainly for evenings and nights out. It leans masculine for most voters, though a fair share read it as feminine. Two perfumes with a close profile are WienerBlut Palais Nizam and Annette Neuffer Maroquin.

Out in the Open

6.5

A13 · 2021

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

A13 Out in the Open is a floral, sweet unisex fragrance that most voters place in autumn and winter, for leisure time as much as evenings. It opens with gardenia, ambrette, saffron and apple, and the heart is led by jasmine, iris, mimosa and orange blossom. The base holds beeswax, sandalwood, vanilla, civet and leather. The floral and fruity side rests on a sweet, creamy ground, while spicy, animal, smoky and leathery touches add weight. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated strong. Masculine and feminine votes are equal, so it sits between the two. Few voters pick it for summer. Amberbomb and Rogue Derviche have a close profile.

Aurum d'Angkhor

8.3

Sultan Pasha Attars · 2014

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Sultan Pasha Attars Aurum d'Angkhor is a unisex perfume best suited to evenings and the cooler months of autumn and winter: a sweet, spicy oriental wrapped in honey, tobacco and resin. It opens with saffron, Jasminum auriculatum absolute and Persian rose otto. In the heart, honey absolute, henna, tobacco and orange blossom come forward; in the base, beeswax, labdanum, oud and sandalwood push it towards a woody, resinous, faintly smoky place. The floral side sits on a creamy, sweet footing. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick winter and autumn, and evening or a night out. It leans masculine in the votes, though a good share read it as feminine. Those after a close profile could look at Sultan Pasha Attars Tabacaurum and Dior Oud Ispahan.

Milestones

8.6

TSVGA · 2020

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

TSVGA Milestones is a spicy, woody and smoky unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter; it has been discontinued. Several ouds lead: Indian, Laotian, Thai and Cambodian. Sandalwood, fossilised amber and pine tar sit beside them, while cocoa absolute and beeswax soften and sweeten the whole. Jasmine sambac and pink lotus add a floral trace, and the accords bring resinous, earthy and animalic sides. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and leisure wear leading. It reads more masculine than feminine. Its profile is close to TSVGA Milestones Attar and Areej Le Doré Al Oud.

Musk Pure

7.6

Tom Ford · 2009

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Tom Ford Musk Pure is a powdery, creamy musk wrapped in sweet florals, made for women and now discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Voters spread the seasons almost evenly, with spring slightly ahead. Daily wear, leisure and the office come up most often. Most voters read it as feminine, though some call it masculine. The scent is fresh and floral: ylang-ylang, jasmine and lily of the valley carry the flowers, while bergamot and pepper add brightness and a light spice. Musk, orris root and beeswax keep it powdery and creamy, and benzoin and tonka bean add sweetness. Animal and synthetic tones stay in the background. Al Haramain Royal Musk and Jōvan Musk for Women have a close profile.

Café Ambre Noir

8.8

Sultan Pasha Attars · 2013

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Sultan Pasha Attars Café Ambre Noir is a sweet, gourmand and spicy unisex scent that opens with rum and coffee and deepens into vanilla, benzoin and castoreum. Most voters place it in autumn and winter, for evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage good; more voters read it as masculine, though a fair number find it feminine. The rum and coffee opening softens into hyacinth, tobacco, tea rose absolute and spices at the heart. In the base, Bourbon vanilla, Siam benzoin, labdanum and patchouli build a sweet, resinous, earthy bed, while oud and gaiac wood carry the smoky woodiness. Serge Lutens Bornéo 1834 and Frapin Caravelle Épicée have a close profile.

Eau du Ciel

7.1

Goutal · 1985

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Goutal Eau du Ciel is a fresh, floral scent that suits spring and summer days, leans feminine, and has been discontinued. Both its longevity and its sillage are moderate, so it stays with you through the day without feeling heavy. Most voters recommend summer and spring, and daily wear, leisure and the office come up most often. Most voters read it as feminine, and some call it classic. The notes read as one whole rather than in stages: iris, linden tree and rosewood build a floral, green and woody base. White musk and beeswax wrap it in a powdery, creamy softness. Among the accords, citrus and sweetness slip in without breaking the fresh feel, while a spicy touch stays in the background.

Oud Indochine

8.3

Maksim Perfume · 2024

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Maksim Perfume Oud Indochine is a sweet, gourmand oud with a spicy, smoky character, made for men and women alike. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated strong: it stays on the skin for a long time and projects clearly around the wearer. Its dense build suits those who like a heavy, assertive scent, and it reads equally well on men and women. It opens with vanilla, cardamom and saffron, a sweet, spiced start. In the heart, myrrh, labdanum, gaiac wood, beeswax and Somalian frankincense build a resinous, woody base. The drydown brings tar, chocolate, cocoa and ambergris alongside Indian, Thai and classic oud, settling into an earthy, smoky, animalic tone.

Tonkin Tonka

8.0

Jousset Parfums · 2021

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Jousset Parfums Tonkin Tonka is a sweet, powdery and resinous unisex scent built around tonka bean, tobacco and benzoin; it has since been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it sits best in leisure time, evenings and nights out. Votes split between masculine and feminine, so it reads somewhere in between. It opens with raspberry, cistus and ylang-ylang, alongside mountain hemlock absolute. The heart brings tobacco and jasmine sambac together with sweet vernal grass and tonka bean absolute. The base of benzoin, tonka bean, beeswax and Tonkin musk settles into a creamy, animalic, spicy warmth. Angel's Dust and Pierre de Velay No. 23 have a close profile.

Tobacco & Mandarin

7.7

Jo Malone · 2017

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Jo Malone Tobacco & Mandarin is a unisex scent built from mandarin orange, sage, pipe tobacco and beeswax, pairing a fresh citrus lift with a smoky warmth. It has been discontinued. The notes read as a single whole rather than in stages: mandarin orange gives a bright, fruity freshness, sage adds a green edge, while pipe tobacco and beeswax sweeten it and pull it towards a powdery, smoky softness. Woody and spicy touches stay in the background. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Voters pick spring, fall and summer in close numbers and choose winter less often. Leisure, daily wear and the office come up most. Masculine and feminine votes are level, so it sits comfortably on either side.

Sleepy Hollow

8.6

Folkwinds · 2024

Green · Fruity · Sweet

Folkwinds Sleepy Hollow opens with apple brandy, spices and patchouli and deepens into oakmoss and oud, a green, spicy unisex scent that has been discontinued. The opening holds apple brandy, spices, night-blooming jasmine and patchouli. In the heart, musk wool, oakmoss, leaves and balsam fir come forward. The base settles into oud, styrax, beeswax and hay. Green, fruity, sweet and resinous accords meet in an earthy chypre character. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out leading the occasions. More voters read it as masculine, though some call it feminine. Serge Lutens Chypre rouge and Molinard Chypre d'Orient have a close profile.

Shah'Ryar

7.4

Rania J. · 2023

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Rania J. Shah'Ryar is a sweet, woody unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter; evenings, nights out and leisure time fit it best. It sits between masculine and feminine, with votes split almost evenly. The top holds osmanthus, bergamot and caramel, and the heart brings labdanum and plum. The base carries hay, cedarwood, beeswax, vetiver and oud. Fruity, gourmand sweetness is balanced by a spicy, resinous, smoky, leathery undertone. Vertus Ombre and Ard Al Zaafaran Khashab Al Oud have a close profile.

Café Mystique

8.0

Maksim Perfume · 2024

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Maksim Perfume Café Mystique is a unisex scent that suits evenings and nights out, setting coffee and vanilla against a sweet, floral and spicy backdrop. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Voters choose it most often for evenings, followed by leisure and nights out, while office and daily wear sit further back. It opens with Indonesian Kopi Luwak coffee, Calabrian bergamot and black pepper. In the heart, frangipani, ylang-ylang, cardamom and labdanum add a soft, floral and spicy turn. The base settles into Bourbon vanilla, Turkish coffee, myrrh and Siam oud, giving a sweet, woody and resinous character, with animal and earthy touches adding depth. Annette Neuffer Arabica and Xerjoff Mamluk have a close profile.

Chinese Exclusive

8.5

Ensar Oud

Citrus · Floral · Fruity

Ensar Oud Chinese Exclusive is a unisex oud fragrance that leans towards evening and night more than any one season; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick evening and night out, while the seasons are spread almost evenly, with fall slightly ahead. It suits both men and women. Bergamot, Sichuan pepper, red mandarin orange and peach make the opening bright, spicy and fruity. In the heart, orange blossom, saffron, rose, hinoki cypress and tuberose add a warm floral layer. The base of Chinese oud, sandalwood, beeswax and vanilla settles into a creamy, sweet, resinous and woody finish. Widian Sahara and Providence Perfume Drunk On The Moon have a close profile.

Eternal Kiss

7.5

La Rive

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

La Rive Eternal Kiss is a fruity-gourmand perfume for women that pairs blood orange and mandarin orange with honey, peach and white flowers. It opens with a bright citrus lift from blood orange and mandarin orange. The heart is floral, built on jasmine, gardenia and orange blossom, while honey and peach soften it and add sweetness. The base turns creamy and gourmand with beeswax, caramel and liquorice, and patchouli adds a faint spicy depth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also suits daily wear. Riiffs Rose de Soleil and Gulf Orchid Honeymoon have a close profile.

Golden Wood

7.6

The Harmonist · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Fruity

The Harmonist Golden Wood is a sweet, woody unisex scent that suits fall and spring days best. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall, then spring, and few choose summer. It leans towards leisure and evenings out, and works at the office too. It reads neither clearly masculine nor feminine. It opens with mandarin orange, elemi resin and barley malt, fresh, citrusy and lightly sweet. Cabreuva, oak and beeswax form a woody heart. The base of amber, roasted tonka bean and birch settles into something resinous, warm and sweet.

Dies Auroræ

8.1

Antonio Alessandria · 2019

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Antonio Alessandria Dies Auroræ is a unisex scent for fall and winter evenings, sweet and gourmand, with spice and resin giving it a smoky edge. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. It doesn't lean masculine or feminine; votes split evenly between the two. It opens with elemi resin, hazelnut, pistachio, almond and caramel, a sweet, nutty start. Honey, beeswax and frankincense dominate the heart. In the base, vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood keep the sweetness going while patchouli and cedarwood build a woody floor. Lattafa Raghba and M. Micallef Aoud Gourmet have a close profile.

Aroha Kyaku (Pure Parfum)

7.6

Ensar Oud · 2024

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Ensar Oud Aroha Kyaku is a woody, spicy and smoky unisex scent that suits autumn and winter days, leisure time and evenings out. It reads as one dense whole: Papua, Cambodian and Sumatran oud form the core, with sandalwood and oakmoss giving a woody, earthy base. Cinnamon and clove add spice, tobacco and castoreum bring a leathery, animal edge, and rose and frangipani keep the floral side soft. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and favour leisure and evening wear; many read it as masculine or classic. Ensar Oud Tigerwood (Pure Parfum) and Ensar Oud Tigerlust: Kanbojia have a close profile.

Orange Blossom (Perfume)

6.7

Lush · 2010

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Lush Orange Blossom is a fresh, citrusy floral aimed at women, and it fits easy daily wear best. Longevity is good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring, followed by fall and summer. Leisure and daytime wear lead, with some votes for business and evening. Most voters read it as feminine. Orange blossom and neroli give it a bright floral freshness, while ylang-ylang adds sweetness and softness. Sandalwood, rosewood and beeswax form a woody, powdery, slightly resinous base. Fruity and spicy touches round out the accords.

Autumnal

6.6

Pineward · 2021

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Pineward Autumnal is a unisex fragrance that sets sweet, spicy and woody tones over a fresh, green character, and it suits fall and winter days; it has been discontinued. Oak wood, fir and cinnamon form the backbone. Peppermint and chamomile add a green, cool edge, while wheat, bran and beeswax soften the sweetness into something earthy and resinous. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and leisure and evening are the occasions it leans towards. Masculine and feminine votes sit very close together, so it reads as genuinely in between.

Désert (Eau de Toilette)

7.4

Fragonard

Fresh · Citrus · Sweet

Eau de Toilette

Fragonard Désert Eau de Toilette is a men's fragrance that opens with citrus and deepens into saffron, tobacco and oud, sitting between fresh and spicy. The citrus top notes give it a bright, fresh start. In the heart, saffron, spicy notes and woody notes come forward. The base holds tobacco, oud, beeswax and tonka bean, leaving a sweet, creamy and slightly smoky trail, with an oriental streak among the accords. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind, while summer is the least chosen season. It suits everything from daily wear to evenings out. Its profile is close to Just Jack Tobacco Leaf and Junaid Perfumes Tiyoob.

Oud Malinau

7.6

Bortnikoff · 2024

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Bortnikoff Oud Malinau is a sweet, spicy and woody unisex scent that brings raspberry, Ceylonese cinnamon and Indonesian oud together. It opens with mimosa and cardamom, then moves into a fruity, gourmand sweetness at the heart, built on Ceylonese cinnamon, raspberry and beeswax. In the base, Siam benzoin and Indonesian oud form a creamy, powdery woody ground, while pink pepper and black pepper keep the spice lively. Its longevity is rated strong, and most voters say it stays on the skin for a long time. Sillage is rated good. With its rich, sweet, oriental character, it sits comfortably on both men and women. Guerlain Oud Nude and Guerlain Angélique Noire have a close profile.

Burnana

8.0

OM Parfum · 2024

Fruity · Spicy · Woody

OM Parfum Burnana is a unisex scent with a fruity, smoky core and a strong animal and resinous side, suited to people who like dense, long-lasting fragrances. Burnana has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated very strong and its sillage strong, so it stays on the skin for hours and makes itself known in a room. It reads neither masculine nor feminine. Fruity notes such as apple and banana sit next to smoke, oud, oakmoss and civet. Sumatran benzoin and fossilised amber soften the sweetness, while castoreum and gaiac wood add a leathery, earthy edge. The overall impression is spicy, woody and dark.

Paradis Lointains

7.2

Olibere · 2015

Fresh · Floral · Green

Olibere Paradis Lointains is a fresh, sweet women's fragrance that opens on bergamot, passion fruit and pink pepper and moves into a floral heart of tuberose and gardenia. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters place it in spring and fall, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. It reads mainly feminine and classic. The top holds turmeric, juniper, passion fruit, pink pepper and bergamot, a fruity freshness with a spicy edge. The heart of clove, ylang-ylang, tuberose, ozonic notes, gardenia and beeswax is floral with a green touch. The base of vanilla, honey, sandalwood and moss settles into something sweet, woody and resinous. Romeo Gigli per Uomo (Eau de Toilette) and Jacomo Paradox Green have a close profile.