The Perfume Library

Bee

7.9

Zoologist · 2019

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Zoologist Bee is a unisex fragrance that softens honey and royal jelly with heliotrope, sandalwood and benzoin. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind and summer chosen least. It leans towards evening, leisure and nights out. On character, feminine and masculine votes run close, so it sits somewhere between the two. The scent is sweet, floral and gourmand. Honey, royal jelly and beeswax form the core, while vanilla, tonka bean and ginger syrup sweeten it further. Heliotrope, mimosa and orange blossom add a creamy floral side, and benzoin, labdanum and frankincense bring a resinous warmth. Maison Matine Avant l'Orage and Sultan Pasha Attars Rêve Narcotique have a close profile.

Sartorial

8.0

Penhaligon's · 2010

Fresh · Floral · Green

Penhaligon's Sartorial is a fresh, spicy men's fragrance that opens with black pepper, cardamom and violet leaf over a metallic, ozonic edge, then softens into leather, lavender and beeswax. The opening is peppery and bright: ginger and cardamom sit beside aldehydes and metallic notes. The heart turns green and powdery with lavender, leather and beeswax. The base adds sweetness through vanilla, honey and amber, while cedarwood, patchouli and oakmoss give it a woody, earthy floor. Voters rate its longevity as good and its sillage as moderate. Fall comes first, followed by spring and winter, and it leans towards business and daily wear. Most voters find it masculine, and many call it classic. Azzaro pour Homme and Mancera Deep Forest have a close profile.

La Femme

7.7

Prada · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Prada La Femme is a fresh, creamy floral built around ylang-ylang, tuberose and vanilla. Tuberose and frangipani set a floral base, while ylang-ylang softens it. Vanilla and beeswax turn the scent sweet, powdery and creamy, and vetiver stays in the background, keeping it fresh. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, followed by fall and summer, and it is worn most often for daily use and the office. Its character reads clearly feminine. Lattafa Shahd and Gucci A Chant for the Nymph have a close profile.

Ardent (Eau de Parfum)

8.4

Boadicea the Victorious · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Boadicea the Victorious Ardent Eau de Parfum is a unisex scent that most voters place in fall and winter evenings, pairing floral and spicy notes with a sweet, resinous depth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Evening and night-out wear lead the votes, spring draws a fair share, and summer trails far behind. Voters read it as feminine more often than not, though it is classed as unisex. It opens with Turkish rose, saffron and coriander, then moves into a softer floral heart of beeswax, jasmine and rose. The base is dominated by oud, vanilla, benzoin, patchouli and amber, drying down sweet, woody and resinous. Fragrance Du Bois Oud Noir Intense and Floris Honey Oud have a close profile.

The Musc (Eau de Parfum)

7.0

Essential Parfums · 2018

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Essential Parfums The Musc Eau de Parfum is a fresh, powdery unisex scent that suits spring and summer days, from daily wear to the office. Most voters pick spring and summer, with winter chosen least. Daily wear, leisure and business are the settings named most often. Longevity and sillage are both rated moderate. It is sold as unisex, though most voters find its character feminine. The scent reads as a single whole: red ginger and Provençal lavender give a clean, lightly spicy freshness, while Australian sandalwood and beeswax settle it on a woody, creamy base. Serenolide and Nirvanolide® bring out the sweet, powdery and synthetic side. A floral tone stays in the background.

The Black Knight

7.8

Francesca Bianchi · 2019

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Francesca Bianchi The Black Knight is a sweet, smoky and powdery unisex scent in which leather, honey and oakmoss lead. Leather and honey come first: a leathery, animal edge softened by beeswax and honey. Patchouli, vetiver and oakmoss lay an earthy base, while Bulgarian rose, narcissus and orris butter add a powdery, floral layer. Cedarwood, artemisia and caraway round out the woody, spicy tone. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out rather than office or daily wear. Most voters read it as masculine, though it is classed as unisex. Francesca Bianchi The Lover's Tale and Tom Ford Noir have a close profile.

Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert (Eau de Cologne)

7.6

Bvlgari · 1992

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Cologne

Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Eau de Cologne is a fresh, green unisex scent that suits spring and summer days best. It opens with the citrus brightness of Italian bergamot, and green tea in the heart softens it into a calm, leafy mood. In the base, tonka bean and beeswax take over, and the scent dries down slightly powdery, spicy and woody. Longevity and sillage are rated weak, so it stays close to the skin and leaves a quiet trail. Most voters pick summer and spring, and it is chosen mostly for daily wear, leisure and the office. More voters read it as feminine, though it stays unisex. Prada Infusion de Vétiver and Bvlgari Eau Parfumée Thé Vert (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

Leather Oud

7.2

Dior · 2010

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Dior Leather Oud is a dark, smoky, masculine scent built around leather and oud, suited to autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Leather, oud and birch together give it a rough, smoky, earthy character. Clove and cardamom add spicy warmth, while amber and labdanum bring a resinous depth. Sandalwood and cedar firm up the woody base, and civet leaves an animal trace. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most voters read it as masculine and classic. Sospiro Misterioso and L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh have a close profile.

Muscs Koublaï Khän

7.6

Serge Lutens · 1998

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublaï Khän is a sweet, animalic scent, floral, spicy and powdery over a warm oriental base, suited to evenings and the colder months, for men and women alike. Rose and ambrette give it a floral start, while civet, castoreum and musk add an animalic, leathery weight. Patchouli and labdanum bring an earthy, resinous depth, and vanilla and beeswax soften and sweeten the whole. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it is worn mostly for evenings and nights out. More voters call it masculine than feminine, yet the feminine vote is sizeable, so it sits comfortably on either. Taif Al-Emarat UAE Oud and Ambregris Ambre & Diamant Noir have a close profile.

Sahara Noir

7.8

Tom Ford · 2013

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Tom Ford Sahara Noir, now discontinued and made for women, blends oud, frankincense resin and vanilla into a sweet, spicy and smoky oriental. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Votes on character are almost evenly split between masculine and feminine, so it doesn't sit in one camp. Bitter orange, cypress and cistus open it. Jasmine, rose, cinnamon and frankincense form the heart, and oud, benzoin, vanilla and labdanum make a sweet, resinous, earthy base. The result is warm, dense and oriental.

Freefall - Lost In Heaven

7.6

Francesca Bianchi · 2019

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Francesca Bianchi Freefall - Lost In Heaven is a unisex scent that sets a floral, spicy heart on a creamy, powdery, resinous base, and it suits evenings best. Jasmine, ylang-ylang and magnolia form the floral body, while cinnamon and cumin add a spicy warmth. Sandalwood, patchouli and tonka bean pull it towards a woody, sweet tone, and castoreum adds an animal depth. The overall impression is rich, powdery and oriental. Voters find the longevity strong and the sillage good. Most pick fall and winter, with evening and night-out wear leading and summer trailing. The feminine vote is slightly ahead, though the masculine vote is sizeable too. Dear Diary Desert Nights to Remember and Chanel Coco (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

California Rêverie

7.8

Van Cleef & Arpels · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Van Cleef & Arpels California Rêverie is a unisex scent that pairs citrus freshness with a floral, creamy sweetness and a green edge, and it suits spring and summer days. It opens with neroli and mandarin orange, bright and fruity. Jasmine and frangipani bring the floral heart forward, while vanilla and beeswax soften the base into a sweet, creamy finish. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, with winter well behind. Daily wear, leisure and the office lead the occasions, though it also works in the evening. Many read it as feminine, even though it is unisex. M. Micallef Ô Féminin and Ex Nihilo Vesper Glitz have a close profile.

Slowdive

7.7

Hiram Green · 2017

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Hiram Green Slowdive is a floral, sweet and resinous unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and see it for evenings, nights out and leisure time. Some find it feminine and others masculine, so it sits between the two. It opens with orange blossom and neroli. The heart brings tuberose, honey, beeswax, dried fruits and tobacco flower, and the floral side turns sweet, creamy and gourmand. Resins in the base leave a spicy, oriental trail. Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Absolu and Tauer Perfumes Vanilla Absolue have a close profile.

Féminité du Bois (Eau de Parfum)

8.6

Shiseido · 1992

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Shiseido Féminité du Bois Eau de Parfum is a sweet, spicy and woody women's scent with floral and fruity sides; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring further back and summer least. It is chosen mostly for evening and nights out, less for daytime or the office. It reads feminine, with a classic feel. Sandalwood and cedarwood build the woody base, while cinnamon, cardamom and clove add spice. Honey and beeswax deepen the sweetness, and plum and peach bring a soft fruitiness. Rose, violet and orange blossom carry the floral side, and musk leaves a warm, powdery finish.

Séville à l'Aube

7.4

L'Artisan Parfumeur · 2012

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

L'Artisan Parfumeur Séville à l'Aube is a fresh, floral women's fragrance built around lavender and orange blossom; it has been discontinued. It opens with lavender, petitgrain and aldehydes, giving a fresh, green, citrusy start. The heart carries orange blossom, jasmine and white blossoms, softened by benzoin and beeswax. Frankincense, amber and resins leave a sweet, powdery warmth at the base. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall, and it suits daytime, leisure and evening wear. Most voters read it as feminine. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia and Les Parfums de Rosine Rosa Flamenca have a close profile.

Earl Grey & Cucumber

7.4

Jo Malone · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Jo Malone Earl Grey & Cucumber is a fresh, green unisex scent that leans towards spring and summer days. Bergamot opens with a citrus brightness, and cucumber at the heart adds a green, watery feel. In the base, musk, vanilla and beeswax soften the scent and give it a light sweetness, while fruity and spicy touches stay in the background. Most voters pick it for spring and summer, and daily, leisure and office wear come up most. Longevity and sillage are moderate, and while more voters call it feminine, a good share find it masculine, so it sits comfortably between the two. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune and Le Labo Fleur d'Oranger 27 have a close profile.

Myrrhe Ardente (Eau de Parfum)

7.5

Goutal · 2007

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Goutal Myrrhe Ardente Eau de Parfum is a unisex scent built on myrrh, benzoin and tonka bean into a warm, resinous blend; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring second and summer well behind. It is chosen mostly for evenings, leisure time and nights out. Votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. It opens on myrrh, then moves into gaiac wood and beeswax, giving it a woody, smoky turn. The base of benzoin, tonka bean and more myrrh keeps it sweet and spicy, with an earthy warmth underneath. Armani Privé Myrrhe Impériale and Ambre Cello have a close profile.

Sloth

7.5

Zoologist · 2020

Floral · Green · Fruity

Zoologist Sloth is a unisex scent that leans towards spring and autumn, leisure hours and evenings, with floral, green and earthy sides in front. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, and leisure and evening wear lead the occasions. For character, masculine gets the most votes, though feminine is not far behind. Lavender, chamomile and violet leaf keep the opening green and floral. In the heart, jasmine, aniseed, beeswax and cumin add a spicy warmth. Myrrh, mushrooms, tonka bean and vanilla settle into a sweet, resinous, earthy base. G Parfums Old Hunter and Zoologist Bat (2015) have a close profile.

Tilleul (1995)

7.9

d'Orsay · 1995

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

d'Orsay Tilleul is a fresh, green and citrusy unisex scent, a light linden blossom for daytime in warm weather, though it has been discontinued. The top is angelica, lemon leaf and watermelon, which reads cool, green and faintly fruity. In the heart, linden blossom, cyclamen and more lemon leaf bring out the floral side. The base of beeswax, hay and acacia wood sweetens it a little and settles it on a woody footing. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it makes itself felt without filling the room. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily, leisure and office wear lead the occasions. Most voters read it as feminine, though it wears as a unisex scent too. Close in profile are d'Orsay Tilleul Friction de Nuit and Detaille Paradisii.

Chêne

7.6

Serge Lutens · 2004

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Chêne is a unisex scent that pairs a green, woody, smoky character with a sweet, resinous warmth, and it suits fall and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and leisure are the most common occasions. It is unisex, though most voters read it as masculine. It opens with black thyme, cedar and plant juice, which give it a green, earthy edge. In the heart, silver birch, oak, rum and beeswax build a woody, smoky core. In the base, tonka bean and coppice sweeten and soften it. Goutal Myrrhe Ardente and Tom Ford Oud Wood have a close profile.

Aqva Divina (Eau de Toilette)

6.7

Bvlgari · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Bvlgari Aqva Divina Eau de Toilette is a fresh, citrusy women's fragrance that suits spring and summer days; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick summer and spring, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Most votes call it feminine. It opens with salt, bergamot and red ginger, giving a fresh, aquatic, lightly spicy start. In the heart, quince and magnolia add a fruity, floral softness. In the base, amber and beeswax sweeten it and settle it into a powdery, woody finish.

Miel de bois

7.1

Serge Lutens · 2005

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Serge Lutens Miel de bois is a unisex scent that sets the sweetness of honey in a woody, floral frame, and it suits autumn and winter evenings. It has been discontinued. Honey and beeswax sit at the centre of the scent, while oak wood, ebony and gaiac wood give that sweetness a dry, woody base. Iris and hawthorn add a soft, powdery floral touch. Gourmand, spicy, resinous and animal tones also run through the accords. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters recommend autumn and winter, and it is chosen most often for evenings and nights out. More voters call it feminine than masculine, though a fair number find it masculine. Cartier L'Envol and Chanel Coco have a close profile.

The Smell of Weather Turning (Perfume)

7.6

Lush · 2010

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Lush The Smell of Weather Turning is a fresh, green unisex perfume that suits spring and autumn days and relaxed, off-duty hours best. Oak wood and hay give it a woody, earthy base, cooled by mint and English peppermint. Roman chamomile and nettle soften the green side, while beeswax adds a resinous, faintly smoky warmth. A spicy edge ties it into one herbal whole. Voters find its longevity strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn, spring and summer, with winter chosen less often. It runs from daytime to evening but is most often linked to leisure. Votes split between masculine and feminine, so it reads truly unisex. Tom Ford Vert des Bois and eSENSielle In the Woods have a close profile.

Tobacco Rose

8.0

Papillon Artisan Perfumes · 2012

Floral · Green · Sweet

Papillon Artisan Perfumes Tobacco Rose is a sweet, resinous unisex scent that sets rose against a green, earthy and smoky background. The scent is built around rose: Bulgarian rose and May rose sit at the centre, while geranium pulls the floral side toward green. Oakmoss and French hay add an earthy, faintly smoky depth, and beeswax, ambergris and musk soften the sweetness, leaving a spicy, oriental warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring and winter, and it leans toward evenings and nights out. Feminine and masculine votes are almost equal, so it sits truly in between. Jovoy Psychédélique and Kilian Incense Oud have a close profile.