The Perfume Library

Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco

8.1

Amouage · 2022

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Amouage Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter evenings. The top notes of elemi resin, cardamom and bergamot set up a fresh spiciness, while tobacco absolute, Bulgarian rose and osmanthus absolute give the heart a soft, rounded sweetness. It dries down on benzoin, vanilla and tonka bean, with assam oud and birch tar adding a smoky, woody depth. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and favour evening and night-out wear. It reads more masculine than feminine. Perfumes with a close profile include Xerjoff Groove Xcape and Creed Oud Zarian.

Beach Klub

6.7

Kai Porten Parfums Privés · 2025

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Kai Porten Parfums Privés Beach Klub is a unisex scent that sets fruity sweetness against smoky, leathery and animalic tones. The top opens with birch tar, apple and rosewood, so the apple's sweetness meets the tar's smoke. In the heart, juniper, leather and oregano build a spicy, leathery frame. The base of musk, castoreum, vanilla, gaiac wood and civet leaves a creamy, woody, animalic trail. Voters find both longevity and sillage good. Most pick fall, followed by winter and spring, while summer gets a small share. It leans towards evenings and nights out, with daily and office wear far behind. Most voters read it as masculine, and many also call it modern.

Nuit de Bakélite

7.9

Naomi Goodsir · 2017

Floral · Green · Spicy

Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite is a smoky, resinous unisex scent that suits evenings out and the days of fall and spring. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick fall and spring, and leisure, evening and night out lead the occasions. Masculine and feminine votes are level, so it reads open to either. It starts with angelica root, saffron and galbanum, green and spicy. Indian tuberose, davana and ylang-ylang bring a floral weight to the heart. In the base, birch tar, cade juniper wood, labdanum and styrax leave a smoky, earthy, leathery trail as it dries.

Pour Homme

8.4

Grauton Parfums · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Grauton Parfums Pour Homme is a fresh chypre-fougère for men, now discontinued, that sets a bright opening of bergamot, lemon and lime against a dry, green base of lavender, cedarwood and vetiver. Citrus comes first, then the spicy edge of nutmeg, clove and coriander seed. In the heart, Provençal lavender, cedarwood and jasmine lead; the base of vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli and oakmoss absolute dries down into a woody, earthy chypre. The overall impression is fresh, green and classic. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick spring and fall, and leisure, daily wear and business are the most chosen settings. Most voters find it masculine and classic. Lacoste Original and Chanel Platinum Égoïste have a close profile.

Black Comme des Garçons

7.9

Comme des Garçons · 2013

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

Comme des Garçons Black Comme des Garçons is a smoky, spicy unisex scent that opens on Madagascar pepper and Somalian frankincense, then moves into liquorice, birch tar and leather. Pepper and frankincense lead at the start; in the heart, liquorice, birch tar, leather and Pepperwood™ give it a dry, resinous, earthy look. Cedarwood and vetiver sit underneath, and the overall character stays synthetic, woody and smoky. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out leading and leisure close behind. It reads somewhat more masculine to voters. Montale Greyland and Initio Divine Attraction have a close profile.

Kokain Black Intense

7.7

Rammstein · 2021

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Rammstein Kokain Black Intense is a smoky, resinous and sweet unisex scent built around saffron, frankincense and myrrh; it has been discontinued. It opens with saffron, frankincense and myrrh, spicy and resinous from the start. The heart brings smoked tea, styrax and prunol, and the base of resins, Cuban tobacco and birch tar leaves a woody, leathery, smoky foundation. Sweetness softens that hard edge but keeps the oriental feel. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and lean towards evenings and nights out. Though unisex, nearly half of voters read it as masculine. Asdaaf Majd al Sultan and Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Desert Oud have a close profile.

Hyde

7.6

Hiram Green · 2018

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Hiram Green Hyde is a unisex scent for autumn and winter evenings, smoky and leathery with a sweet softness running through it. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick winter and fall, with evening and leisure wear leading and night outings close behind. More voters read it as masculine, though a fair number find it feminine. Lemon and bergamot give a brief bright opening, then the heart moves to birch tar and sweet acacia. The base holds labdanum, vanilla and oakmoss. The overall impression is sweet, spicy and woody, with animal, resinous and smoky tones adding a leathery depth.

Cœur de Noir

7.7

Beaufort · 2015

Spicy · Woody · Resinous

Beaufort Cœur de Noir is a smoky, resinous and spicy unisex scent built around leather, birch tar and tobacco. It opens with ginger, black pepper and rum alongside bergamot and lemon, while ink and paper give it a dry, bookish edge. In the heart, suede, leather and dry woods lead, softened a little by vanilla and lavender. The base of labdanum, cedarwood, frankincense, birch tar and tobacco settles into a smoky, earthy finish. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is worn mostly for leisure, evenings and nights out. Half of the voters read it as masculine, though it is classed as unisex. Zara WO/02 Wood Street and Cartier XIII: La Treizième Heure have a close profile.

Midnight Oud

6.6

Juliette Has A Gun · 2009

Floral · Synthetic · Spicy

Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud is a smoky, woody scent for autumn and winter evenings, classed as a women's perfume. It opens with birch tar beside rose; the heart brings oud, cedar, patchouli and labdanum forward. In the base, gaiac wood, castoreum and vanilla soften it. The accords also include floral, spicy, resinous and leathery tones, and the overall impression is heavy, earthy and animalic. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evening and night out leading and the office a distant choice. Most voters call it feminine, though a fair share find it masculine. Dior Oud Ispahan and Nishane Mana have a close profile.

Tea Tonique (Eau de Parfum)

7.4

Miller Harris · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Eau de Parfum

Miller Harris Tea Tonique Eau de Parfum is a unisex scent that pairs bright citrus with the dry, green character of tea. It opens on lemon, Calabrian bergamot and petitgrain, a sharp citrus lift. In the heart, maté tea, green tea and Earl Grey tea lead, with nutmeg adding a light spice. The base of musk and birch tar settles into a soft, faintly smoky woodiness. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, leisure and business are the occasions named most often. Votes for feminine and masculine are almost level, so it reads as truly unisex. Jardin de France Secret Hespéridé and Acqua di Parma Colonia C.L.U.B. have a close profile.

Kama

8.0

pernoire · 2024

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

pernoire Kama is a unisex scent that leans towards autumn and winter evenings, pairing sweet notes with a leathery edge. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind and summer least suggested. Evening, leisure and night out lead the occasions. Voters split between masculine and feminine, so it sits somewhere in the middle. It opens with orris root, blackberry, birch tar and violet. The heart brings amber, cotton candy, cypriol and leather, balancing sweetness against a spicy, leathery side. In the base, cashmere, musk and moss settle it onto a soft, woody ground.

Cuirtis

8.5

Areej Le Doré · 2024

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Areej Le Doré Cuirtis is a leathery, animalic unisex scent led by American beaver tail oil, castoreum and Russian leather, best suited to fall and winter evenings. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. It reads closer to masculine and classic. It has been discontinued. It opens with beaver tail oil, Russian castoreum, osmanthus, cumin and juniper berry. The heart brings vanilla, rose, birch tar and iris, with the floral side kept under smoky, leathery accords. The base is dominated by Russian leather, Manipur oud, tar and oakmoss, drying down earthy and resinous. Rania J. Cuir Andalou and Areej Le Doré Royal Barn have a close profile.

La Fumée

7.6

Miller Harris · 2011

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Miller Harris La Fumée is a discontinued unisex fragrance that sets a sweet, spicy character against resinous, smoky woods. It opens with Yemenite frankincense, French lavender and Persian elemi, then moves into a warm, spicy heart of Moroccan chamomile, coriander seed, Egyptian cumin and cardamom. The base rests on Mysore sandalwood, birch tar and oud for the smoky, woody line, with amber sweetening it. Voters rate its longevity as good and its sillage as moderate. Most lean towards fall and winter, and towards leisure, evening and nights out. More voters read it as masculine, though a fair share find it feminine. Ex Nihilo Amber Sky and Miller Harris La Fumée Intense have a close profile.

Gasolin

6.8

Rammstein · 2024

Sweet · Synthetic · Spicy

Rammstein Gasolin is a discontinued unisex fragrance, smoky, leathery and hard-edged, that suits autumn and winter evenings best. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and leisure, evening and night-out wear lead the occasions. It reads more masculine than feminine, though it is classed as unisex. It opens on burnt match, fuel and asphalt, a harsh, industrial start. The heart is dominated by birch tar, ink and leather. In the base, graphite, Ambrocenide® and Aurelione® settle the scent onto a woody, resinous, slightly sweet ground, with synthetic and animal touches never far behind.

Terror & Magnificence

7.6

Beaufort · 2019

Green · Spicy · Woody

Beaufort Terror & Magnificence is a smoky, resinous unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with saffron, birch tar and black pepper, spicy and smoky from the first spray. The heart brings tobacco absolute, papyrus, kyphi and Somalian frankincense, and the dry-down settles on Haitian vetiver, myrrh, labdanum absolute and benzoin over an earthy, leathery base. Most voters pick winter and fall, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters read it as more masculine, though it works as a unisex scent. Montana Graphite and Costume National Secret Woods have a close profile.

Mississippi Medicine (Eau de Parfum)

7.7

D.S. & Durga · 2011

Green · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

D.S. & Durga Mississippi Medicine Eau de Parfum is a woody, smoky and resinous men's scent that suits fall and winter, whether for leisure time or an evening out. The top holds red cedar, frankincense and aldehydes, while the heart of cascarilla, cypress root and European black pine builds a green, earthy forest feel. In the base, birch tar and incense bring the smoke forward, and Spanish prickly pear softens that hard edge a little. A spicy streak runs through the blend as well. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with leisure the top occasion and evening next. Most also read it as masculine. Profumum Roma Olibanum and Lalique Encre Noire à L'Extrême have a close profile.

Wald (Eau de Parfum)

8.1

Euphorium Brooklyn · 2016

Green · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Euphorium Brooklyn Wald Eau de Parfum is a green, woody and smoky unisex scent that suits fall and winter days best, with the feel of a forest walk. Juniper, fir, cedar and arborvitae draw a wooded picture, while soil, moss and fern add a damp forest floor. Smoke and birch tar harden the scent, and honey and maple syrup soften it slightly. Green and spicy lead the accords, followed by resinous and earthy sides. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters recommend fall and winter, though spring is not far behind, and it is chosen mostly for leisure time and evenings. Votes lean slightly masculine, yet many call it feminine. Euphorium Brooklyn Cilice and Filippo Sorcinelli Ambrosivs have a close profile.

Lao Oud (Extrait de Parfum)

7.9

Bortnikoff · 2021

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Extrait de Parfum

Bortnikoff Lao Oud Extrait de Parfum is a unisex scent that pairs Laotian and Indian oud with the sweetness of cocoa, vanilla and tonka bean, in a woody, smoky and spicy character. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening, leisure and night out lead the occasions. The largest share of voters reads it as masculine, with a classic character next. It opens with magnolia and pink pepper. The heart of chamomile, beeswax absolute, cinnamon, Peru balsam and cocoa absolute adds a sweet, spicy warmth. In the base, oud, birch tar and gaiac wood set a smoky, earthy woodiness, softened by coffee, vanilla and tonka bean. Bortnikoff Attar Lao Oud and Rania J. Ambre Loup have a close profile.

Chypre du Nord

7.8

Bortnikoff · 2020

Citrus · Green · Fruity

Bortnikoff Chypre du Nord is a unisex chypre where citrus and green meet a sweet, fruity softness over a woody, resinous base. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. Opinion is split between masculine and feminine, with a classic feel. Bergamot and orange open brightly, then peach and nutmeg turn the heart sweet and spicy. The base of birch tar, oakmoss and cedar is dry and woody, while benzoin and tonka bean soften it.

Autumn in Lhoka

7.9

Hima Jomo · 2022

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Hima Jomo Autumn in Lhoka is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent, resinous and earthy, that clearly belongs to the cooler months. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring well behind. It suits evenings and nights out best, then leisure hours. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters lean slightly masculine, though a fair share read it as feminine. It opens with cinnamon leaf, saffron and black pepper, which give a spicy warmth. In the heart, bran absolute, barley and fir balsam add a dry, resinous feel. The base of birch tar, patchouli and Tibetian incense dries down smoky and earthy, with a sweet edge.

Oud Maximus (2020)

8.2

Bortnikoff · 2020

Citrus · Floral · Spicy

Bortnikoff Oud Maximus pairs oud with rose, with cardamom, clove and tolu balm giving a spicy, resinous, unisex scent. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring close behind and summer well back. It leans towards evenings, nights out and leisure time, and is rarely chosen for the office. Voters mostly find it masculine and classic. It opens with bergamot, cardamom and pink pepper, a fresh, spicy start. The heart holds several roses, magnolia and clove, with tonka sweetening the floral side. In the base, Indian, Vietnamese and Borneo oud join tolu balm, vanilla, deer musk, civet and birch tar for a woody, animalic, resinous finish. Bortnikoff Oud Maximus (2018) (Extrait de Parfum) and Bortnikoff Attar Oud Maximus have a close profile.

Bass Solo

7.6

The Vagabond Prince · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Green

The Vagabond Prince Bass Solo is a unisex scent that moves from a fresh, citrusy opening into a woody, resinous and earthy base. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn, followed by winter and spring, and it leans towards evenings, leisure and nights out. Most voters read it as masculine. Cardamom, lime and ginger give a fresh, spicy start. In the heart, lavender, birch tar and cedar bring a woody dryness. The base of driftwood, amber, sandalwood and patchouli settles warm, resinous and slightly creamy.

The Monarch

8.3

The Dua Brand · 2018

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

The Dua Brand The Monarch is a fresh, woody chypre built around bergamot, juniper and oakmoss, described as a men's fragrance and best suited to spring and summer days. The citrus freshness comes from bergamot, lemon and lime, while juniper, thyme and lavender add a green, spicy edge. Oakmoss, cedar and patchouli form a woody, earthy backbone, with amber and tonka bean softening the edges. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and business are the most named occasions. Most see it as masculine in character. Roja Parfums Oligarch and Avapari Blue Lime have a close profile.

Moonlight Ceremony

7.6

Mystikum · 2024

Spicy · Woody · Animal

Mystikum Moonlight Ceremony is a smoky, resinous unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings. Longevity and sillage are both rated very strong, and most voters pick fall and winter, for evenings and nights out. It reads masculine to most, though it stays unisex. It opens with opoponax, saffron and frankincense, spicy and resinous. The heart of gaiac wood, birch tar, oud and smoked tea builds a smoky, earthy woodiness, softened by sandalwood and patchouli. The base of labdanum, leatherwood and Ambrostar leaves a leathery, animal warmth. Le Labo Oud 27 and G Parfums Alpha have a close profile.