The Perfume Library

By the Fireplace

7.9

Maison Margiela · 2015

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Maison Margiela By the Fireplace is a sweet, smoky unisex scent that suits evenings in the colder months. It opens with clove and pink pepper for a spicy warmth, softened by orange blossom absolute. The heart of chestnut, gaiac wood and cade juniper turns woody and smoky, and the base of Peru balsam, cashmeran and vanilla settles into a sweet, resinous, gourmand warmth. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it is chosen most for evenings and nights out. It reads somewhat more masculine than feminine, though many voters see it as feminine. Boulangerie Crème Caramel and Emir Camp Fire have a close profile.

Sunshine Woman

8.1

Amouage · 2014

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Amouage Sunshine Woman is a floral, fruity and sweet women's fragrance with a gourmand lean, set on a smoky woody base; it has been discontinued. It opens with blackcurrant liqueur, almond and davana, a fruity, sweet start. The heart of vanilla, osmanthus absolute, jasmine and magnolia turns creamy and floral. In the base, papyrus, patchouli, cade juniper and Virginia tobacco add a spicy, smoky woodiness, while the powdery, oriental side stays present. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall, with winter further behind. It is worn mostly for leisure and daily use, though evening and night out follow close. Most voters find it feminine. Its profile is close to Avapari Virginia Tobacco and Balenciaga Cristobal.

Fars

8.2

Xerjoff · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Xerjoff Fars is a unisex scent that sets a floral and woody backbone against a sweet, spicy, resinous oriental warmth. It opens with Italian bergamot, French lavender and cade juniper, fresh but with a smoky edge. In the heart, Egyptian geranium, jasmine absolute and Atlas cedar settle the floral side onto a woody base. The base of Haitian vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, white oud and amber sweetens the scent and gives it a resinous depth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind and summer the least chosen. It is mostly worn in the evening and on nights out. More voters read it as masculine, though a fair number find it feminine. El Nabil Amber of Yemen and Sahraa Oud have a close profile.

Comme des Garçons 2

7.4

Comme des Garçons · 1999

Fresh · Floral · Green

Comme des Garçons 2 is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, green character with spicy and woody touches, with a distinctly synthetic feel. Ink and aldehydes set a cool, sharp fresh tone. Cumin and angelica root add a spicy edge, while cade juniper and vetiver lay a woody, smoky base. Patchouli, frankincense and labdanum deepen it, and magnolia absolute brings a soft, powdery floral touch. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and daily wear, leisure and the office come up most. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads truly unisex. Tom Daxon Iridium and Comme des Garçons 8 88 have a close profile.

Tyrannosaurus Rex

7.2

Zoologist · 2018

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Zoologist Tyrannosaurus Rex opens with fir, black pepper and cade juniper, and reads as a floral, spicy and smoky scent. Its longevity and sillage are rated very strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads more masculine, though it is unisex. The top notes bring fir, black pepper, neroli and nutmeg. In the heart, jasmine, ylang-ylang and osmanthus form a floral layer. The base carries cade juniper, leather, frankincense and resins, with an animal, earthy edge. Bogue LiTA and Nimerè Shades of Darkness have a close profile.

Search

7.7

Amouage · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Amouage Search is a unisex fragrance that opens with citrus and settles onto a resinous, woody base, fresh yet with a smoky edge. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall, and it leans towards leisure and daily wear. Voters place its character closer to masculine, though it is described as unisex. The top notes of mandarin orange, lemon and lime give a bright citrus opening. In the heart, elemi resin, black pepper and Omani green frankincense bring a spicy, resinous feel. Vetiver, gaiac wood and cade juniper leave a woody, smoky trail at the base.

Portrayal Man

7.9

Amouage · 2019

Fresh · Floral · Green

Amouage Portrayal Man is a green, earthy men's fragrance built on violet leaf, Java vetiver and cade juniper. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and fall, and leisure, daily wear and business come up most often as settings. It reads masculine and classic. Diptyque Vetyverio (Eau de Toilette) and ICONOfly Personne have a close profile. It opens with violet leaf, fresh, green and faintly floral. Java vetiver in the heart gives it an earthy, woody backbone, and cade juniper in the base finishes on a dry, spicy note.

24 Old Bond Street

7.7

Atkinsons · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Atkinsons 24 Old Bond Street is a fresh, citrusy fragrance for men that opens with cardamom and juniper berry and moves into cade juniper, Earl Grey tea and Turkish rose. The top notes of cardamom and juniper berry give a spicy, bright start. In the heart, cade juniper, Earl Grey tea and Turkish rose build a green, floral balance, with the sweetness staying in the background. Whisky in the base closes it on a warm, woody note. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, with fall close behind. It suits daily wear, leisure and the office, and most voters read it as masculine. Atkinsons 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract and Dunhill Icon have a close profile.

A City on Fire

6.6

Imaginary Authors · 2014

Spicy · Woody · Resinous

Imaginary Authors A City on Fire is a smoky, resinous and earthy men's fragrance led by burnt match and cade juniper. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, while spring and summer trail far behind. It leans towards leisure, evenings and nights out, and rarely gets chosen for the office or daytime. Most voters read it as masculine. The notes read as one whole: the dry smoke of burnt match joins the charred, woody air of cade juniper. Cardamom adds spice, labdanum brings resinous warmth, and spikenard gives an earthy depth. Clearwood softens the woody base, and berries add a faint fruity touch in the background.

Maahir Black Edition

7.2

Lattafa · 2019

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Lattafa Maahir Black Edition is a spicy, woody and smoky masculine scent built around black pepper, saffron and leather. It lasts strongly and projects well. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it is mostly worn in the evening or on a night out. It reads clearly masculine and classic. It opens with black pepper, saffron and pink pepper, then moves into a resinous, smoky heart of rhubarb, labdanum, gurjum balsam and cade juniper. The base of leather, tree moss, gaiac wood and patchouli turns earthy and leathery. Le Labo Oud 27 and Amouage Epic Man have a close profile.

His Majesty the Oud

7.7

Atkinsons · 2016

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Atkinsons His Majesty the Oud is a sweet, smoky and spicy men's fragrance built around Lapsang Souchong tea, leather and Laotian oud. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it sits most comfortably in the evening or on a night out. Most voters read it as masculine and classic. It opens with the smoky air of Lapsang Souchong tea. In the heart, cade juniper and clove add a spicy, resinous edge. The base is led by leather, frankincense and Laotian oud, with sweet, gourmand tones softening the woody, smoky structure. Zara Bohemian Oud and Santa Eulalia Obscuro have a close profile.

Caden

8.2

Omanluxury · 2025

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Omanluxury Caden is a unisex scent that pairs a sweet, gourmand core with spice, resin and smoky wood, and it suits autumn and winter evenings best. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong, so a light hand is enough. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evening and night out leading the occasions. It leans masculine in character, though it wears as unisex. It opens with saffron, cardamom, cade juniper and boozy notes, spicy and slightly smoky. At the heart, coffee, benzoin, cistus and suede add a leathery warmth. The base of labdanum, tonka bean, vanilla and amberwood sweetens it and settles into a resinous softness. Rayhaan Pharaoh and Lattafa Ameer Al Oudh Intense Oud have a close profile.

Les Nombres d'Or - Cuir

7.5

Maison Mona di Orio · 2010

Spicy · Woody · Animal

Maison Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or - Cuir is a masculine, leather-led scent with a spicy, smoky edge, best suited to fall and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Leather, castoreum and opoponax form the backbone. Cardamom and cade juniper add a spicy, smoky hardness, while absinth sharpens the heavy build slightly. The accords are woody, resinous, earthy and animal, with little sweetness or floral softness. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evenings or nights out; summer is rarely chosen. It reads masculine and classic. Sonoma Scent Studio Fireside Intense and Initio Divine Attraction have a close profile.

Patchouli of the Underworld

7.7

Electimuss · 2022

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Electimuss Patchouli of the Underworld is a serious masculine scent that sets woody, animal and smoky tones over a green, sweet and spicy base. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, spring follows, and summer is rarely chosen. It is mentioned most for evenings, leisure and nights out. Voters tend to call it masculine and classic. The top opens with bergamot, mandarin orange and black pepper, a bright spicy start. The heart holds patchouli, cade juniper and birch, bringing a smoky, earthy weight. The base of labdanum, castoreum and styrax dries down resinous and leathery. Nishane Unutamam and Le Labo Patchouli 24 (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Rake & Ruin

6.8

Beaufort · 2018

Green · Spicy · Woody

Beaufort Rake & Ruin is a green, smoky and woody unisex scent that opens on juniper, gin and Sichuan pepper before settling into smoke, labdanum and dry woods. The top notes of juniper, gin, lemon and liquorice make a cool, spicy start; pine needle, cypress and violet bring a green, earthy tone to the heart. Castoreum and labdanum add an animalic, resinous, leathery weight, and in the base sandalwood, musk and smoke leave a soft but smoky finish. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear rather than summer heat or the office. Most voters read it as masculine. Boadicea the Victorious Salacious and Le Frag Grimmtale have a close profile.

Blue Madeleine

7.1

Atelier des Ors · 2024

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Atelier des Ors Blue Madeleine is a unisex scent that suits fall and winter, its sweet, gourmand side balanced by a woody, smoky base. It opens with pink pepper, bergamot and cinnamon, then turns creamy and floral at the heart with milk, black tea and French Rosa centifolia. The base brings Peru balsam, sandalwood, cade juniper and praliné, so the sweetness rests on a smoky, woody warmth. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind. It leans towards leisure and daily wear and can carry into the evening. It reads feminine to many, though it is unisex. Maison Tahité Café Gourmand and Initio Side Effect have a close profile.

Holysm

7.0

Xerjoff · 2023

Green · Spicy · Woody

Xerjoff Holysm is a unisex woody, resinous scent with a green, spicy and smoky character, suited to autumn and evening wear. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter, while summer trails behind. It leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out. Though unisex, most voters read it as masculine. It opens with clary sage, thyme and fir balsam, a green, crisp, forest-like start. In the heart, caraway, tobacco and labdanum absolute deepen it in a spicy, resinous direction. The base of patchouli, Vietnamese oud and sandalwood leaves an earthy, smoky, woody floor. Robert Piguet Casbah and Orientica Oud Wood have a close profile.

Smoke

7.2

Akro · 2018

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Akro Smoke is a smoky, sweet unisex fragrance built on cade juniper, benzoin, Balkans tobacco and tonka bean, with a masculine lean that suits autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is worn mostly for evenings and nights out; it reads masculine but works as a unisex scent. The scent as a whole runs smoky, earthy and woody. Cade juniper and Balkans tobacco carry the dry, charred side, while benzoin and tonka bean soften it with a sweet, resinous, spicy warmth. Goutal Myrrhe Ardente and Tom Ford Oud Wood have a close profile.

Bois d'Olivier & Cade

7.2

Jeanne en Provence · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Jeanne en Provence Bois d'Olivier & Cade is a fresh, citrusy and woody men's scent with a green streak, suited to daytime wear and the in-between seasons. It opens with lemon zest, lavender and apple, a bright, lightly fruity start softened by jasmine. In the heart, cade juniper, olive wood and patchouli build a woody body while marine notes keep it fresh. Vetiver and sandalwood settle it onto a dry, woody base. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, and leisure, daily wear and business are the most-voted occasions. It reads mostly masculine, with some voters calling it modern or classic. James Bond 007 (Eau de Toilette) and Lacoste Red (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

Smolderose (Eau de Parfum)

7.6

January Scent Project · 2017

Floral · Green · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

January Scent Project Smolderose Eau de Parfum is a smoky, resinous unisex scent built around cade juniper, Damask rose, patchouli and frankincense. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, though spring is not far behind. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, and the feminine and masculine votes sit close together, so it reads comfortably either way. The notes have no top, heart and base split and read as one whole: the smoke of cade juniper, the floral sweetness of Damask rose and the earthy, woody patchouli sit together. Saffron's spice, labdanum and frankincense add a resinous warmth. The sweetness never takes over, and a green thread holds its place beside the smoke.

Hattaï

7.6

Le Couvent · 2019

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Le Couvent Hattaï is a sweet, spicy and gourmand unisex fragrance built around red pepper, cocoa, cade juniper and cinnamon. It opens with the sharp warmth of red pepper; cocoa in the heart softens it and brings the gourmand side forward. The base of cade juniper and cinnamon settles into a woody, resinous, oriental spice warmth laid over the sweetness. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters recommend fall and winter, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. Some find it feminine and others masculine, so it doesn't lean firmly either way. Its profile is close to M2J Fragranza Pura Eleganza and Parfums de Marly Oajan.

Croissant Café

7.1

Versȧtıle · 2021

Sweet · Synthetic · Gourmand

Révolution

7.0

Trudon · 2017

Green · Spicy · Woody

Trudon Révolution is a woody unisex fragrance with a green, earthy character, overlaid with spice, resin and smoke. It opens with elemi resin, and angelica carries the green, spicy tone through the heart. The base of cade juniper, cedar and papyrus settles into a smoky, dry woodiness. It reads cool, resinous and earth-toned rather than sweet. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards leisure time and evenings out. Most voters read it as masculine, though a fair share see it as feminine. Aēsop Hwyl and Lalique Encre Noire à L'Extrême have a close profile.

Age of Innocence

7.3

Toskovat' · 2022

Fruity · Sweet · Synthetic

Toskovat' Age of Innocence is a unisex scent that sets sweet fruity notes against a synthetic, smoky and woody base; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind, and it is chosen mostly for leisure time and evenings. Voters read it as feminine and modern more often than masculine, though masculine votes are far from rare. It opens with strawberry, chewing gum and cotton candy, a sweet, fruity start. The heart of rubber, rose, fuel and metal adds a harder, synthetic edge to that sugary picture. In the base, cedar, Haitian vetiver, cade juniper and oud leave a woody, smoky, leathery trail.