The Perfume Library

Fougère Royale (2010) (Eau de Parfum)

8.0

Houbigant · 2010

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Houbigant Fougère Royale is a fresh, green and woody fougère built on lavender and bergamot, with a classic, masculine character. It lasts well and projects at a moderate level. Most voters suggest spring, fall and summer, with winter chosen less often. Business, daily and leisure wear lead, while evening and night out sit further back. Voters mostly call it masculine and classic. The top opens with lavender, bergamot, Mediterranean herbs and Moroccan chamomile, citrusy and herbal. Geranium, May rose absolute, cinnamon and carnation add a floral, spicy middle. The base of tonka bean absolute, amber, oakmoss absolute and patchouli settles it onto a woody, slightly sweet ground.

Overture Man

8.1

Amouage · 2019

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Amouage Overture Man is a sweet, spicy and smoky men's fragrance that leans towards fall and winter evenings. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evenings and nights out suit it best; summer is rarely chosen. It reads as masculine and classic. It opens with cumin, saffron, nutmeg and cardamom, softened by cognac and grapefruit. In the heart, myrrh, cinnamon and benzoin add a sweet, resinous warmth. Smoked leather, sandalwood and frankincense leave a smoky, woody, animalic trail at the base.

The World According to Arthur

8.0

Penhaligon's · 2021

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Penhaligon's The World According to Arthur is a sweet, spicy and resinous men's fragrance that suits fall and winter evenings. It opens with frankincense, Tahitian vanilla and grapefruit; the grapefruit gives a brief lift before vanilla and resin take over. In the heart, ambrette and clary sage absolute make it powdery and creamy. The base returns to frankincense, while tonka bean absolute softens the sweetness and leaves a smoky, woody warmth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and almost none recommend it for summer. It is mostly suggested for evenings and nights out, with some leaning towards leisure and daily wear. More voters call it masculine, though a fair share read it as feminine.

Ocean Leather

7.5

Memo Paris · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Memo Paris Ocean Leather is a fresh, citrusy aquatic fragrance, with green, spicy and woody sides and a leathery thread; it is classed as unisex. Most voters recommend summer and spring, and daily wear, leisure and business are the settings named most often. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. In the character votes masculine leads, with modern and feminine readings also present. The top notes of lemon, pink pepper and Madagascan mandarin orange bring coolness and a light spice. In the heart, elemi resin, cedarwood, clary sage absolute and aquatic notes come forward. At the base, cistus absolute, leather and Haitian vetiver settle the scent onto a dry, woody footing. Dior Fahrenheit Cologne and Miguel Matos Sailor Stories have a close profile.

Les Nombres d'Or - Vétyver

7.9

Maison Mona di Orio · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Maison Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or - Vétyver is a unisex scent that ties citrus freshness to earth and smoke, with a green, woody streak; it has been discontinued. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter and summer trailing behind. It suits leisure and daily wear, and the office too. Voters lean towards calling it masculine, though a fair number find it feminine. It opens with Argentinean grapefruit and Madagascan blue ginger for a cool brightness. Towards the heart, clary sage absolute, labdanum and nutmeg add a spicy, faintly resinous warmth. The base rests on Bourbon vetiver, Virginia cedar and patchouli, a woody, earthy footing softened by musk and tonka bean.

The Ruthless Countess Dorothea

7.7

Penhaligon's · 2017

Citrus · Fruity · Sweet

Penhaligon's The Ruthless Countess Dorothea is a sweet, spicy women's scent that suits fall and winter days; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring in third place. It leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out, though it also gets votes for work and daily wear. Most voters read it as feminine, while some call it classic or modern. It opens with bergamot, cinnamon and red ginger, citrus meeting spice. The heart holds beeswax, maté absolute and clary sage absolute. In the base, cashmeran, vanilla absolute and sherry sweeten it into a powdery, creamy, resinous gourmand. Trudon 45° and Maison Margiela Whispers in the Library have a close profile.

Signature - Oud Wood & Dark Vanilla

6.7

Axe · 2016

Sweet · Synthetic · Gourmand

Axe Signature - Oud Wood & Dark Vanilla is a masculine scent whose sweet, gourmand base is wrapped in spice and smoke. It opens lightly spicy and fresh with coriander, mandarin orange and black pepper. Clary sage absolute and nutmeg form the heart, while oud, vanilla, patchouli and tobacco settle into a woody, creamy, smoky warmth. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and summer is rarely chosen. It fits everyday wear as well as evenings and reads as masculine. Lalique Noir Premier - Or Intemporel 1888 and The Dua Brand Cumbria have a close profile.

Mongolian Mriga

8.8

Prin · 2023

Green · Spicy · Woody

Prin Mongolian Mriga is a green, spicy and woody unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Oakmoss, pine balsam and galbanum set a green, resinous base. Cinnamon and cumin bring the spice, while oud and pine tar add a smoky, woody weight. Animalic notes and Mongolian musk push it towards leather and earth, with jasmine and rose staying in the background. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and summer barely features. Evening and leisure lead the occasions, and it reads closer to masculine. Memo Paris Iberian Leather and Caron Yatagan have a close profile.

Velvet Cypress

7.6

Dolce & Gabbana · 2017

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Cypress is a fresh, green and woody men's scent built on cypress absolute, fir balsam and Virginia cedar; it has been discontinued. Italian lemon and Italian bergamot bring a citrus brightness, while galbanum adds a green, slightly bitter edge. Cypress, fir and cedar form a resinous, woody backbone, and clary sage absolute softens it with a creamy, spicy touch. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn not far behind, and it leans towards leisure, business and daily wear. Voters mostly read it as masculine.

Musc Immortel

7.5

Atelier des Ors · 2017

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Atelier des Ors Musc Immortel is a unisex scent for fall and winter evenings, pairing a powdery, creamy musk with a floral, woody body. The top carries iris, grapefruit and clary sage absolute, with the grapefruit brightening it slightly. At the heart, cypriol, patchouli and Haitian vetiver build an earthy, spicy woodiness. The base of musk, ambrette and immortelle absolute leaves a sweet, resinous, soft foundation. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though leisure and daytime wear also work. Votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine. Atelier des Ors Iris Fauve and Guerlain Patchouli Paris have a close profile.

Ferragamo Intense Leather

7.6

Salvatore Ferragamo · 2021

Fresh · Fruity · Sweet

Salvatore Ferragamo Ferragamo Intense Leather is a masculine fragrance that sets a fresh, fruity opening against a leathery, earthy base. Longevity is good and sillage moderate, so it lasts through the day without filling the room. Most voters pick autumn, then spring. Daily wear, office and leisure lead the occasions, and it sits comfortably in the evening too. It mostly reads as masculine. Pink pepper, clary sage absolute and mandarin orange bring freshness and a touch of spice. In the heart, lily of the valley, Annurca apple and iris add a soft, powdery sweetness. The base of leather, earthy notes, musk and oakmoss settles into a woody, earthy finish.

Fundamental (2015)

7.7

Rubini · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Rubini Fundamental is a unisex scent that sets fresh citrus against a leathery, smoky woodiness; it has been discontinued. It opens with white grape, mandarin orange and bergamot, a sweet and fruity freshness. In the heart, Italian orris butter, beeswax absolute, labdanum, clary sage absolute and lavender bring a floral, green side. The base of Atlas cedar, sandalwood, Java vetiver, leather and cocoa absolute dries down into a warm, woody, animal and smoky finish. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads balanced between the two. Rubini Fundamental (2023) and Aigner Black for Women have a close profile.

Milky Dragon

7.9

Isabelle Larignon · 2022

Fresh · Floral · Aquatic

Isabelle Larignon Milky Dragon is a fresh, floral unisex scent that most voters place in spring and summer, for leisure or daytime wear. Fresh, floral and aquatic accords lead, with green and fruity shades alongside. Fig, mirabelle plum jam, jasmine and aquatic flowers shape the core, while butter and hazelnut add a sweet, creamy softness. Oakmoss and cardamom bring a green, spicy depth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters call it modern, and feminine and masculine votes sit close together, so it reads as genuinely unisex. Daytime and office wear get more votes than evening or a night out. Mancera Jardin Exclusif and Dorin Figue Divine have a close profile.

Polo Oud

8.4

Ralph Lauren · 2023

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Ralph Lauren Polo Oud is a woody, spicy and resinous men's fragrance that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with clary sage absolute and pink pepper for a spicy start. In the heart, orange blossom absolute, rose absolute and cinnamon add a sweet warmth. The base of oud, vetiver, patchouli, frankincense resin and gaiac wood settles into a smoky, earthy, leathery foundation, with a green thread running underneath. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it sits best in the evening or on a night out, though it also works at the office. Half of the voters call it masculine, and it has a classic bearing. Jardin Bohème Oud Mystique and Tom Ford Oud Wood (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Blasted Heath

7.0

Penhaligon's · 2015

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

Penhaligon's Blasted Heath is a men's fragrance that sets the fresh air of seagrass and aquatic notes against the dry woodiness of tobacco, whisky and vetiver. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick summer and spring, and use leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Most find it masculine, with some also calling it classic. It opens with clary sage, seagrass and aquatic notes, giving a salty, green freshness. In the heart, Clearwood, green leaves, tobacco and whisky soften that freshness with a spicy warmth. The base of gaiac wood, patchouli, musk, Nootka cypress and vetiver settles into a woody foundation, with a slightly synthetic, aquatic character throughout. Dsquared² Original Wood and Jaguar Pace have a close profile.

Daim

7.3

Miskeo · 2022

Fresh · Floral · Green

Miskeo Daim is a unisex scent that leans towards fall and spring, easy to wear at leisure or at work, pairing a fresh, floral face with a leathery, smoky depth. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter and summer further behind. It is suggested most for leisure, then for business and evening wear. More voters call it masculine, but a good share call it feminine, so it sits somewhere in between. Blood orange and black pepper give it a lively, spicy tone, while jasmine and frangipani absolute carry the floral side. Suede, castoreum, mahogany and hay add a woody, animalic, smoky depth, and clary sage absolute brings a green freshness. Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur and Illuminum Piper Leather have a close profile.

Point du jour

7.3

Serge Lutens · 2024

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Serge Lutens Point du jour is a fresh, green unisex scent that leans towards leisure and daytime wear from spring through autumn. Built from thyme, clary sage absolute and eucalyptus absolute, it has no top-heart-base split and reads as a single piece. The fresh, green side leads, framed by a spicy edge and a woody, earthy, lightly smoky background. Longevity is good and sillage moderate, so it stays close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring, autumn and summer, with winter the least chosen. Leisure and daily wear come first, with office use close behind. Voters lean slightly masculine, though a sizeable share call it feminine.

Pacific Rock Swell

7.2

Goldfield & Banks · 2026

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Goldfield & Banks Pacific Rock Swell is a fresh, citrusy and lightly aquatic unisex scent that suits spring and summer days. It opens with bergamot, clary sage and cardamom, then moves into fir balsam absolute, kelp and geranium at the heart. The base of patchouli, ambergris and Australian sandalwood settles it onto a woody footing. Spice and a touch of sweetness soften the fresh, green side. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, mainly for leisure and daily wear, with sport and office use also getting votes. Half of the voters read it as masculine. Baldessarini Cool Force and Al Haramain Signature Blue have a close profile.

Dõjima

7.2

Maison Mona di Orio · 2017

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Migration de L'Arbre

7.8

Senyokô · 2018

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Senyokô Migration de L'Arbre is a unisex fragrance that opens with juniper absolute, yuzu and grapefruit and settles onto a woody base of fir balsam and oak. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and leisure, daily wear and the office are the occasions named most often. Votes for masculine and feminine are close, so it doesn't lean clearly either way. The top notes of juniper absolute, yuzu and grapefruit bring a cool, citrus freshness. In the heart, mastic, osmanthus and magnolia add a soft floral touch, with black caraway giving a hint of spice. The base of fir balsam, oak, vetiver and patchouli dries down woody, earthy and resinous.

Vetyverso

7.2

Laboratorio Olfattivo · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Laboratorio Olfattivo Vetyverso is a fresh, green and woody unisex scent built around vetiver, grapefruit and black pepper. It opens with nutmeg, carnation and bitter orange, a citrusy spice. In the heart, grapefruit, vetiver, black pepper and pink pepper take over, and the earthy green side of the vetiver comes forward. The base of cedar, sandalwood, white musk and clary sage absolute keeps it woody and clean. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters place it in spring, fall and summer, with winter trailing behind. It is picked most for leisure and business, less for evenings. Though unisex, it leans masculine. Terre d'Hermès (Eau de Toilette) and Sospiro Basso have a close profile.

Hossegor

7.4

What We Do Is Secret · 2019

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

What We Do Is Secret Hossegor is a unisex scent with a salty, aquatic freshness and green, spicy edges; it has been discontinued. Most voters pick summer and spring, then autumn, while winter trails well behind. It leans towards leisure, business and daily wear. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters read it as more masculine, though a fair number call it feminine. The opening brings juniper, mastic, sea salt and black pepper for an aquatic, spicy start. Frankincense and orris root sit in the heart, and ambergris, vetiver and musk settle into a woody, creamy base. The overall impression is fresh, lightly sweet and a little smoky.

Fundamental (2023)

8.2

Rubini · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Rubini Fundamental opens with fresh mandarin orange and bergamot, then moves into darker notes like lavender, labdanum and leather, and it suits both men and women. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Voters lean towards daily wear and leisure, though business and evening settings also get a share. It reads as neither strictly masculine nor feminine. The top is grape, mandarin orange and bergamot, fresh and fruity. In the heart, lavender and clary sage bring a green, floral touch, while orris butter adds powder and beeswax and labdanum add a sweet, spicy warmth. The base of Atlas cedar, sandalwood, leather and cocoa is woody, leathery and slightly animal. Rubini Fundamental (2015) and Karl Lagerfeld Jako have a close profile.

The Original

6.3

Zippo Fragrances · 2010

Fresh · Fruity · Sweet

Zippo Fragrances The Original is a men's fragrance that sets a fresh, fruity opening over a sweet, spicy and woody base. Bergamot, grapefruit and apple give a bright fruit freshness at first, with violet leaf nudging it towards green. In the heart, vetiver, patchouli and Bourbon vanilla lead, and the sweetness rests on a woody, powdery frame. The base of tonka bean, black pepper and lavender dries down spicy and oriental. Most voters find it masculine. Longevity and sillage are moderate, though based on few votes. It leans towards fall and winter, then spring, and suits leisure time and nights out best, with daily and business wear also possible.