The Perfume Library

Gaïac

7.8

M. Micallef · 2005

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

M. Micallef Gaïac is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent that suits fall and winter. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and leisure hours leading, and votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. It opens with bergamot, and jasmine and clove give the heart a floral, spicy turn. The base of vanilla, gaiac wood and vetiver leaves a woody, powdery and resinous warmth. Fragonard Encens Fève Tonka and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Or des Indes have a close profile.

Britannia (2016)

8.4

Roja Parfums · 2016

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Roja Parfums Britannia is a unisex scent that sets bright citrus against a floral, sweet and spicy body; it has been discontinued. It opens with a fresh bunch of mandarin orange, tangerine, bergamot and citron. In the heart, May rose, jasmine, violet and peach bring a soft floral-fruity layer. The base turns sweet and spicy with vanilla, cocoa, cinnamon and clove, while sandalwood, musk and ambergris keep it on a powdery, creamy ground. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also gets votes for office and daily wear. Most voters read it as feminine, with a good share calling it classic. Roja Parfums Danger and Roja Parfums Love have a close profile.

Baptême du Feu

7.3

Serge Lutens · 2016

Citrus · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Baptême du Feu is a spicy, sweet unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most pick fall and winter, with spring and summer far behind. It suits evenings, nights out and leisure time. Votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine. Christopher Sheldrake is the perfumer. Cinnamon, clove and candied orange carry the scent. A citrus and fruity sweetness sits on a spicy, woody, resinous base, and the gourmand, oriental warmth gets a rougher edge from an animal touch.

Shanghai Lily

8.0

Tom Ford · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Tom Ford Shanghai Lily is a floral, sweet unisex scent built around jasmine, tuberose and cistus; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind; summer may feel heavy. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and works for leisure too. Voters read it as more feminine, though it is classed as unisex. The floral heart carries jasmine, tuberose and rose; bitter orange adds a little freshness, while black pepper, pink pepper and clove bring spice. Vanilla, Siam benzoin, frankincense and cashmere wood give a sweet, resinous, powdery warmth underneath. Castoreum leaves an animal trace.

Reliqvia

7.8

Filippo Sorcinelli · 2021

Fruity · Spicy · Woody

Filippo Sorcinelli Reliqvia is a smoky, resinous unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings best. Reliqvia opens with tobacco, smoke and nutmeg, while blackcurrant and orange add a light fruity edge to that dry start. In the heart, clove, Scots pine and mastic keep the spicy, resinous mood going. The base settles on cashmere wood, sandalwood, frankincense and patchouli, giving it a woody footing. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, evening and leisure wear lead the occasions, and office use sits far behind. It leans masculine, though it is classed as unisex.

Layla

8.3

Xerjoff · 2023

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Xerjoff Layla is a sweet, spicy floral unisex scent that suits autumn and winter best, and feels most at home in the evening or on a night out. It opens with the warm spice of nutmeg and clove. In the heart, Atlas cedar, ylang-ylang and Singapore patchouli set a soft floral note over a woody base. The dry-down of Bourbon vanilla, musk and amber turns creamy, resinous and oriental in its sweetness. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with summer the least favoured season. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, and far less for the office. Votes for feminine and masculine are almost level, so it reads comfortably either way.

Masar

7.4

pernoire · 2020

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Pernoire Masar is a sweet, spicy unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings, with a heavy, warm feel and leathery, smoky edges. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters point to winter and fall, and to evenings and nights out; office and daytime wear get very few votes. The masculine reading leads the character votes, though it stays a unisex fragrance. The top opens with clove, cinnamon and yuzu, while labdanum adds a resinous weight to that spicy start. In the heart, amber, honey, tobacco and vanilla sweeten it. Tonka bean, sandalwood and leather form a woody, faintly animalic base.

Tubéreuse criminelle

7.5

Serge Lutens · 1998

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Tubéreuse criminelle is a sweet, spicy floral built around tuberose, jasmine and orange blossom, described as unisex. It lasts strongly and projects well. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind, and it is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out. Votes lean feminine, though a fair number call it masculine. The floral accord leads: tuberose, jasmine, hyacinth and orange blossom. Nutmeg and clove add spice, vanilla and styrax give a sweet, resinous base, and musk softens everything. Woody, oriental and animal tones sit behind the flowers. Serge Lutens Cèdre and Lattafa Pure Oudi have a close profile.

Sa majesté la rose

7.3

Serge Lutens · 2000

Fresh · Floral · Green

Serge Lutens Sa majesté la rose is a floral, sweet unisex scent that sets rose absolute against white honey and clove. Rose absolute leads, white honey sweetens it, and clove adds a light spice. Gaiac wood and musk form a woody, powdery base, while a fresh, green touch runs alongside the rose. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and evenings and nights out. Many read it as feminine, though it is presented as unisex.

Omnia

7.6

Bvlgari · 2003

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Bvlgari Omnia is a powdery oriental for women that wraps a floral core in sweet, spicy and gourmand tones; it has been discontinued. It opens with mandarin orange, cardamom, saffron, pepper and ginger, bright and spiced. In the heart, nutmeg, masala chai, clove and cinnamon carry the spice on, softened by lotus and almond. The base of sandalwood, tonka bean and white chocolate sweetens it and settles it on a woody footing. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring third and summer well behind. It is worn by day and in the evening alike, and over half of voters read it as feminine. Tiziana Terenzi Velorum and Givenchy Ange ou Démon (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Féminité du Bois (Eau de Parfum)

8.6

Shiseido · 1992

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Shiseido Féminité du Bois Eau de Parfum is a sweet, spicy and woody women's scent with floral and fruity sides; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring further back and summer least. It is chosen mostly for evening and nights out, less for daytime or the office. It reads feminine, with a classic feel. Sandalwood and cedarwood build the woody base, while cinnamon, cardamom and clove add spice. Honey and beeswax deepen the sweetness, and plum and peach bring a soft fruitiness. Rose, violet and orange blossom carry the floral side, and musk leaves a warm, powdery finish.

Parfum Sacré (1990) (Eau de Parfum)

8.0

Caron · 1990

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Caron Parfum Sacré suits fall and winter evenings, a sweet, spicy and resinous feminine scent that has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night-out wear leading the occasions. Voters mostly read it as feminine and classic. The top opens spicy with pepper, cardamom, clove and cinnamon, while lemon and coriander lighten it slightly. The heart builds a floral body from jasmine, rose and orange blossom. In the base, vanilla, myrrh and amber leave a sweet, powdery, smoky warmth. Caron Parfum Sacré (2013) and Calvin Klein Obsession have a close profile.

Nuit de Tubéreuse

7.3

L'Artisan Parfumeur · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse is a spicy-sweet floral built around tuberose, ylang-ylang and rose, made for women and now discontinued. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and lean towards evenings and nights out; the majority find it feminine. It opens with pepper, pink pepper, cardamom and mandarin orange for a spiced brightness. The heart softens with tuberose and ylang-ylang, joined by mango and orange blossom. Benzoin, sandalwood and musk in the base settle it into a woody, sweet, powdery finish. Emanuel Ungaro Desnuda and Givenchy Amarige have a close profile.

Trayee

8.1

Neela Vermeire Créations · 2011

Floral · Green · Fruity

Neela Vermeire Créations Trayee is a spicy, resinous unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings best. Most voters pick fall, then winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters read it as somewhat more feminine, though it stays unisex in character. It opens with cannabis, cinnamon and ginger, while blackcurrant adds a fruity sweetness. The heart brings Egyptian jasmine, saffron and sandalwood, floral and woody at once. It dries down to vetiver, amber, oud and vanilla, warm, smoky and sweet. Fragrance Du Bois New York Intense and Penhaligon's Levantium have a close profile.

Jacomo de Jacomo (1980) (Eau de Toilette)

8.1

Jacomo · 1980

Green · Spicy · Woody

Jacomo de Jacomo is a green, spicy fragrance for men that suits fall and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. It opens with lavender, cardamom and galbanum, then moves into the spiced warmth of geranium, clove and cinnamon at the heart. Oakmoss and patchouli sit underneath; the overall impression is green, woody and earthy, with smoky, animal and leathery edges. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. It reads masculine and classic. Caron Yatagan and Jacomo de Jacomo (2011) have a close profile.

Al Noble Ameer

8.0

Lattafa · 2022

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Lattafa Al Noble Ameer is a unisex fragrance that sets a sweet, spicy character against woody, smoky and leathery tones, and it suits autumn and winter evenings. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick winter and autumn, and it comes into its own on nights out and in the evening. It reads closer to masculine, though it works as a unisex scent too. It opens with rosemary, apple and pink pepper, fresh with a slightly sharp edge. In the heart, floral notes and clove turn it spicy and sweet. The base of vetiver, cypress, patchouli, oud and labdanum lays down a woody, smoky, leathery foundation. Pana Dora Swedish Wood (Extrait de Parfum) and Swiss Arabian Shaghaf Oud Abyad have a close profile.

Momona

7.9

Parfums d'Elmar · 2022

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Parfums d'Elmar Momona is a unisex scent that takes the spicy opening of cardamom and ginger into the sweet, creamy warmth of caramel, vanilla and white chocolate. Cardamom, ginger, mandarin orange and saffron lead the top, with black pepper sharpening the spice. In the heart, jasmine, passion fruit and orange blossom add a floral, fruity softness while clove and cinnamon keep the spice going. The base settles into a gourmand, woody sweetness of caramel, vanilla and sandalwood. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and evenings and nights out; summer is the least chosen. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it reads as genuinely in between. Tiziana Terenzi Velorum and Bvlgari Omnia have a close profile.

Néroli Plein Sud

7.7

Guerlain · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Guerlain Néroli Plein Sud is a unisex scent that pairs Moroccan neroli with ginger and turmeric for a fresh, spicy character. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn not far behind; winter is the least chosen season. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, and works at the office too. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Votes for feminine and masculine are equal, so it sits right in the middle. The notes read as one piece: Moroccan neroli brings a citrusy, floral and green freshness, while ginger, turmeric, cinnamon and clove add the spice. Sandalwood gives a creamy softness and vetiver a dry, woody edge.

Cinnabar (1978) (Eau de Parfum)

7.9

Estēe Lauder · 1978

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Estēe Lauder Cinnabar is a spicy, resinous and sweet women's fragrance that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick winter and fall, and evening and night out are the favoured occasions. It reads mostly feminine, with a share calling it classic. It opens with spices, orange, bergamot and peach lifted by aldehydes. The heart sets cinnamon and clove against the floral sweetness of ylang-ylang, jasmine and rose. The base of frankincense, benzoin, vanilla and patchouli leaves a resinous, woody, powdery and smoky warmth.

Vitriol d'Œillet

7.3

Serge Lutens · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Serge Lutens Vitriol d'Œillet is a fresh, spicy floral: the sharp, sweetish side of carnation, softened by a woody, powdery base, and it reads as unisex. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close to the skin without filling a room. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter, with summer well behind. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, and votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine. Carnation, gillyflower and clove lead the scent, while cayenne pepper adds a thin edge of heat over the floral core. The fresh, spicy start settles into a sweet, oriental and powdery warmth. Guerlain L'Heure Bleue (Eau de Parfum) and Il Profvmo Santal Rouge have a close profile.

Vanille Absolument / Havana Vanille

7.4

L'Artisan Parfumeur · 2009

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

L'Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument / Havana Vanille is a unisex scent that pairs the sweet warmth of vanilla, tonka bean and benzoin with tobacco and rum for a smoky edge; it has been discontinued. It opens with mandarin orange, orange and clove, bright and spicy, with rum softening them. In the heart, rose, narcissus and tobacco lead, while dried fruits deepen the sweetness. The base settles into resinous, powdery warmth from vanilla, tolu balm and benzoin, with vetiver and musk in the background. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out. Voters call it more feminine than masculine, though a fair share see it as masculine.

Tobacco

8.2

Franck Boclet · 2014

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Franck Boclet Tobacco is a sweet, smoky and spicy men's fragrance that softens tobacco with plum and vanilla into a warm, gourmand scent. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring well behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure. Voters mostly find it masculine, though a fair share read it as feminine. The top has tobacco, plum and ginger. In the heart, tonka bean, clove, cedarwood and smoke come forward, and the base of vetiver, benzoin, amber and vanilla dries down sweet and resinous. Fruity and oriental accords add to that sweetness.

Embruns d'Ylang

7.5

Guerlain · 2019

Fresh · Floral · Aquatic

Guerlain Embruns d'Ylang is a unisex fragrance that moves from a fresh opening of salty notes and bergamot into a floral heart of ylang-ylang and jasmine sambac; it has been discontinued. Salty notes and bergamot open with a fresh, aquatic feel. In the heart, ylang-ylang, jasmine sambac and clove come forward: the flowers read creamy, the clove adds a light spiciness. Vanilla, iris and patchouli sweeten the base and close it with a powdery softness. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most pick spring, fall and summer, and lean towards leisure and evening wear. Though unisex, most voters find it feminine. L'Erbolario Iris and Pierre Guillaume 15 Ilang Ivohibe have a close profile.

Opus 1870

7.5

Penhaligon's · 2005

Fresh · Citrus · Spicy

Penhaligon's Opus 1870 is a men's fragrance that pairs citrus freshness with spice, resin and wood, with a faintly smoky, earthy edge. It opens bright and sharp with yuzu, Bourbon pepper and coriander. In the heart, clove, cinnamon and frankincense turn the spice resinous and warm, while English rose softens the edges. The base settles into cedarwood, gaiac wood, Australian sandalwood and musk, dry, woody and a little smoky. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as moderate. Autumn and spring lead the season votes, with winter and summer trailing behind. Daily wear, business and leisure are picked more often than evening or a night out. Close to half of voters read it as masculine, and a good number as classic.