The Perfume Library

Chypré Extraordinaire

8.5

Roja Parfums · 2018

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Roja Parfums Chypré Extraordinaire is a unisex floral-fruity chypre that opens with bergamot and aldehydes, then softens into violet, jasmine and peach. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and spring, with winter not far behind, and it is chosen mostly for night outs and evenings. Masculine and feminine votes are almost even, so it sits between the two, with a classic feel. It opens bright with bergamot and aldehydes. In the heart, violet, jasmine, peach and plum add a floral, fruity sweetness. The base lays down a woody, powdery and creamy ground of moss, patchouli, sandalwood and vanilla. Perfumes with a close profile include The Dua Brand Chypré X and Roja Parfums Britannia (2016).

Baldessarini (Eau de Cologne)

7.1

Baldessarini · 2002

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Eau de Cologne

Baldessarini Eau de Cologne is a men's scent that opens with spearmint, mandarin orange and bitter orange, then settles onto patchouli and sandalwood. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, so the scent stays fairly close to the skin. Voters spread the seasons almost evenly, with fall and spring slightly ahead. Daily wear, leisure and office use are equally favoured, while evening and night out sit lower. Most voters call it masculine and classic. Citrus and green notes lead: spearmint adds coolness, while mandarin orange and bitter orange give a bright, fruity, lightly sweet start. In the heart, patchouli, clove and cumin bring spicy warmth. The base of balsamic notes, musk and sandalwood softens everything and dries down woody.

La Fin du Monde

7.5

Etat Libre d'Orange · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

Etat Libre d'Orange La Fin du Monde opens on roasted sesame, popcorn and black pepper, a floral, sweet and spicy unisex scent. The top notes are roasted sesame, popcorn and black pepper, so the gourmand and spicy sides come first. In the heart, freesia, cumin and orris absolute move it towards a powdery, floral line. The base of sandalwood, gun powder and ambrette seed adds a woody, smoky and creamy footing. The overall feel is sweet and slightly synthetic. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters recommend fall and spring, with winter in third place. It is chosen most for leisure and daily wear. Voters lean slightly feminine, though masculine votes are not far behind. Sora Dora Lü Bu and Maison Margiela Coffee Break have a close profile.

Ti Amo

8.1

Roja Parfums · 2016

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Roja Parfums Ti Amo is a floral and sweet unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Bergamot and mandarin orange open brightly, then the heart of ylang-ylang, jasmine, orange blossom and pineapple forms a floral-fruity whole. In the base, vanilla, tonka bean, cocoa and cinnamon pull it towards a gourmand, spicy side, while sandalwood and musk lay a creamy, powdery ground. Voters rate its longevity as strong and its sillage as good. Most pick autumn and winter, and evenings or nights out; few see it as a summer scent. Most voters read it as feminine, though it also wears as unisex. Roja Parfums Amore Mio and Roja Parfums Britannia have a close profile.

Songes (Eau de Toilette)

7.4

Goutal · 2006

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Eau de Toilette

Goutal Songes Eau de Toilette is a sweet, floral scent for evenings and nights out; it has been discontinued and most voters find it feminine. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn, with spring and winter close behind; it is worn mostly in the evening and on nights out, and less at the office. Most voters call it feminine, and some see it as classic. The scent is built on white flowers: jasmine sambac, tiaré, frangipani and ylang-ylang absolute. Bourbon vanilla absolute and benzoin add sweetness and a gourmand side, while cinnamon, cumin and black pepper bring an oriental, spicy warmth, and patchouli deepens the powdery feel.

Halfeti Leather

8.1

Penhaligon's · 2019

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Penhaligon's Halfeti Leather is a unisex scent where a smoky, leathery character is softened by sweet spice and resin, suiting autumn and winter evenings best; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evenings and nights out leading the occasions. It leans masculine in most votes, though it is classed as unisex. It opens with bergamot, plum, citrus fruits and green notes, a light fruity brightness. The heart brings cinnamon, cardamom, cumin, nutmeg, violet and lavender, spicy and sweet in a warm way. The base of leather, oud, frankincense, patchouli and cedarwood settles into a woody, smoky ground.

London

7.8

Tom Ford · 2013

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Tom Ford London is a spicy, woody, smoky unisex fragrance, warm and resinous with a leathery edge, best suited to evenings in the cooler months; it has been discontinued. It opens with coffee, cardamom absolute and saffron, while coriander seed and cumin deepen the spice. In the heart, jasmine absolute, cistus and frankincense soften the florals with a resinous warmth. The base settles into an earthy, smoky bed of oud, birch, cedar and musk. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and night-out and evening wear lead the occasions. Most voters read it as masculine, though a fair number find it feminine. Just Jack London Eye and Prin Arsalan have a close profile.

Piano Santal

7.4

L'Orchestre Parfum · 2019

Sweet · Synthetic · Gourmand

L'Orchestre Parfum Piano Santal is a sweet, creamy and woody unisex scent that sets milk and white musk beside sandalwood, cedar and cumin. Most voters pick fall and winter, spring follows, and summer gets only a small share. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, with evening and business use also getting votes. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters don't pin it firmly as feminine or masculine. The scent rests on a woody frame of sandalwood and cedar. Milk and white musk soften that frame into a creamy sweetness, while cumin adds a spicy warmth. Bergamot stays in the background, and ambroxan with the skin accord gives it a smooth, slightly gourmand, synthetic finish.

Tobacco Mandarin

7.1

Byredo · 2020

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Byredo Tobacco Mandarin is a sweet, spicy unisex scent built around mandarin orange, tobacco and oud; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Voters call it masculine more often than feminine, though a fair share see it as feminine. The top opens with mandarin orange, coriander seed and cumin, where fruity sweetness meets spice. In the heart, tobacco, leather and labdanum turn it smoky and leathery. The base of frankincense, oud and sandalwood leaves a resinous, woody finish. Emir Spicy Tobacco and The Dua Brand Tabacum de Mandarino have a close profile.

Solo (Eau de Toilette)

6.6

Loewe · 2004

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Loewe Solo Eau de Toilette pairs the fresh sweep of lavender, bergamot and mandarin orange with thyme, cinnamon and nutmeg, making a masculine scent that suits easygoing daily wear. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, so it neither fills a room nor disappears quickly. Most voters recommend spring, fall and summer, with winter a minority choice. Daily wear, leisure and business are the most voted occasions. Close to half of voters read it as masculine, while classic and modern draw almost equal shares. The scent leans citrusy and fresh: lemon, mandarin orange and bergamot sit alongside lavender. Thyme, cumin, cinnamon and nutmeg add a spicy warmth, and patchouli gives a woody base. Guava and boldo bring a sweet, fruity touch, with floral and synthetic tones rounding out the character.

Nuit de Sable

7.1

bdk Parfums · 2019

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

bdk Parfums Nuit de Sable is a unisex scent that pairs spice with sweetness and suits autumn and winter evenings. Most voters recommend autumn and winter; evenings and nights out lead, and it is worn for leisure too. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Votes split evenly between masculine and feminine, so it sits comfortably either way. The top opens with a spicy trio of cumin, Guatemala cardamom and Indonesian nutmeg. The heart brings Rose oxide, Turkish rose absolute and sand, where the floral side becomes clear. The base of Australian sandalwood, ambroxan, musk and tonka bean absolute dries down creamy, sweet and woody. Ajmal Sacrifice for Her and Carner Rima XI have a close profile.

Gladiator Oud

7.7

Electimuss · 2023

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Electimuss Gladiator Oud is a sweet, spicy and smoky woody oriental, heavy and earthy with an animalic edge, a unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings. It opens with saffron and cumin, then turns sweeter at the heart with honey and hay, while Egyptian geranium and Balkans immortelle absolute add a rough, earthy side. The base of oud, patchouli, Atlas cedar and vetiver sets a woody, smoky floor, and ambergris rounds it off with resinous warmth. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, favour evenings and nights out, and it reads more masculine than feminine. Gritti Noctem Arabs and Montale Aoud Musk have a close profile.

Frustration

7.2

Etat Libre d'Orange · 2022

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Etat Libre d'Orange Frustration is a unisex scent that pairs a sweet, gourmand character with spice and smoke, suited to fall and winter evenings. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it is chosen most often for evenings and nights out. Voters are split on whether it reads masculine or feminine. It opens with rum, cinnamon and cumin, which give a warm, spicy start. In the heart, vanilla and vanilla absolute bring a creamy sweetness, while cistus absolute adds a resinous depth. The base of chestnut wood and Bourbon vetiver settles into a woody, smoky foundation. Initio Side Effect and Lou de Pre Bright Tobacco have a close profile to Frustration.

Ether

7.4

Xerjoff · 2023

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Xerjoff Ether is a unisex fragrance that sets a floral, spicy sweetness over a woody, resinous base. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters recommend it for fall and winter, and evenings and nights out lead the occasions, while summer comes last. Voters mostly read it as masculine. It opens with Amalfi lemon, Calabrian bergamot and mandarin orange for a bright start, while cumin and Bulgarian rose add a spicy, floral edge. In the heart, cypriol, benzoin and Bulgarian lavender come forward. It dries down to Ceylonese sandalwood, Bourbon vanilla and caramel in a creamy sweetness, with musk and oud adding an animalic depth.

Cuir mauresque

7.7

Serge Lutens · 1996

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Cuir mauresque is a spicy, leathery unisex scent built on cinnamon, cumin and clove, warmed by amber and frankincense. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out. More voters read it as masculine, though it works as a unisex scent. A sweet, resinous warmth leads. Cinnamon, nutmeg and clove add spice, while frankincense, myrrh and styrax settle it onto a smoky, resinous base. Cedar and oud give it a woody frame, musk and civet add an animal depth, and orange blossom brings a soft floral touch.

Opus IV

7.7

Amouage · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Amouage Opus IV is a spicy, resinous unisex scent that opens with lemon, grapefruit and coriander and settles into cardamom, rose and frankincense; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated very strong and its sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is worn mostly in the evening and on nights out. It reads more masculine to most voters, though a sizeable share finds it feminine. It opens sharp and bright with lemon, grapefruit, coriander and mandarin orange. Cardamom, cumin and rose bring a spicy floral heart. The base of Peru balsam, labdanum and frankincense dries down sweet, smoky and resinous. Zara TOB/02 Tobacco Tango and Xerjoff More Than Words have a close profile.

Les Jeux sont Faits

7.6

Jovoy · 2013

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Jovoy Les Jeux sont Faits is a sweet, spicy men's fragrance built around tobacco, Cuban rum and patchouli; it has been discontinued. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and lean towards evenings and nights out. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated good. Most see it as masculine, while some call it classic. The top opens with gin, dried fruits and angelica, giving a fruity, sweet start. In the heart, tobacco, cumin and Cuban rum add a spicy, smoky tone. The base of patchouli, cistus, sandalwood, labdanum and vanilla settles into a resinous, earthy, woody warmth.

8 88

7.1

Comme des Garçons · 2007

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Comme des Garçons 8 88 is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, floral start with spicy, resinous and smoky depth, leaning sweet; it has been discontinued. Its notes read as a single whole rather than layers: cumin and coriander bring the spice, geranium and California bay laurel keep it fresh, while frankincense, amber and patchouli build a resinous, woody base. Safraleine adds a synthetic, powdery edge, and an oriental sweetness softens it all. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters lean towards fall and spring, though winter and summer are not far behind. Leisure and daily wear come first, with business and evening close behind. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads as in between. Amouage Dia Man and Locherber Agathis Amber have a close profile.

Cuirtis

8.5

Areej Le Doré · 2024

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Areej Le Doré Cuirtis is a leathery, animalic unisex scent led by American beaver tail oil, castoreum and Russian leather, best suited to fall and winter evenings. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. It reads closer to masculine and classic. It has been discontinued. It opens with beaver tail oil, Russian castoreum, osmanthus, cumin and juniper berry. The heart brings vanilla, rose, birch tar and iris, with the floral side kept under smoky, leathery accords. The base is dominated by Russian leather, Manipur oud, tar and oakmoss, drying down earthy and resinous. Rania J. Cuir Andalou and Areej Le Doré Royal Barn have a close profile.

Epic 56 Woman

8.4

Amouage · 2021

Floral · Green · Spicy

Amouage Epic 56 Woman is a floral heart wrapped in spice, smoke and resin, pulled towards a dark, woody finish. It opens with cumin, pink pepper and cinnamon for a spicy start. In the heart, jasmine tea, geranium and rose bring a green, floral softness. The base leans on vanilla, amber, sandalwood, patchouli, frankincense and oud, settling into a warm, resinous, smoky oriental. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out leading the occasions. Feminine edges ahead in the votes, but masculine is close behind, so it sits between the two. Amouage Epic Woman (Eau de Parfum) and Dr. Vranjes Leather Oud have a close profile.

Sloth

7.5

Zoologist · 2020

Floral · Green · Fruity

Zoologist Sloth is a unisex scent that leans towards spring and autumn, leisure hours and evenings, with floral, green and earthy sides in front. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, and leisure and evening wear lead the occasions. For character, masculine gets the most votes, though feminine is not far behind. Lavender, chamomile and violet leaf keep the opening green and floral. In the heart, jasmine, aniseed, beeswax and cumin add a spicy warmth. Myrrh, mushrooms, tonka bean and vanilla settle into a sweet, resinous, earthy base. G Parfums Old Hunter and Zoologist Bat (2015) have a close profile.

Terra

8.1

Rayhaan · 2025

Citrus · Sweet · Spicy

Rayhaan Terra is a men's fragrance that suits fall and winter evenings, opening with citrus before settling into a sweet, spicy and resinous depth. It starts fresh and spicy with bergamot, lemon and cardamom, then moves to a heart where saffron, orange blossom and patchouli lead. In the base, amber, vanilla, oud and frankincense weigh in, and it dries down sweet, creamy, smoky and earthy. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure. Voters read it as clearly masculine and modern. Amouage Outlands and The Dua Brand Lands of the Unknown have a close profile.

21

7.5

Costume National · 2007

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Costume National 21 is a sweet, spicy and woody unisex scent, with resinous, powdery and earthy sides that place it in the warm part of the oriental family. It opens with bergamot, milk, orange blossom and saffron, and the heart brings cashmere wood, pepper and cumin. In the base, amber, vanilla, sandalwood and patchouli take over, and the scent settles into a sweet, powdery, resinous warmth. Most voters pick fall and winter, though spring still gets a share. It is chosen most for evenings and also suits daily wear. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good, and voters split evenly between masculine and feminine.

Mon nom est rouge

7.9

Majda Bekkali · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Majda Bekkali Mon nom est rouge is a unisex scent where floral rose meets spice, resin and a sweet amber warmth, with a smoky, oriental edge. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads more feminine to most voters, though a fair share see it as masculine. It opens with pink pepper and elemi resin, with rosewood and geranium alongside. In the heart, cumin, cinnamon and ginger spice the Turkish rose. The base turns sweeter with labdanum, blond tobacco, vanilla and tonka bean, while sandalwood and patchouli give it a woody, earthy footing. Tom Ford Oud Wood (Eau de Parfum) and Kilian Incense Oud have a close profile.