The Perfume Library

_but not today_

7.1

Filippo Sorcinelli · 2018

Floral · Green · Synthetic

Filippo Sorcinelli _but not today_ is a green, woody and smoky unisex scent that leans towards fall and spring, and suits leisure time or evenings. It opens fresh and herbal with lemon, bergamot, artemisia and lavender. In the heart, calamus, rosemary and styrax set that freshness on a spicy, resinous footing. The base dries down with oakmoss, sandalwood, amber and musk, while floral and animal touches stay in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters recommend fall, spring and winter, with summer well behind. Leisure and evening are the favoured occasions; it reads somewhat masculine, though many find it feminine or modern. Arrogance Arrogance pour Homme (Eau de Toilette) and Diego Dalla Palma Aqualambara have a close profile.

Posh on the Green

7.1

Atkinsons · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Atkinsons Posh on the Green is a fresh, citrusy and green unisex scent set on a woody base, suited to everyday wear. Its longevity and sillage are both moderate, so it leaves a light trail through the day without filling the room. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn well behind. Leisure, daily wear and business are the occasions named most often. It leans slightly masculine, though a good share of voters find it feminine. The top is petitgrain and coriander, a citrusy opening with a faint spice. In the heart, geranium and galbanum bring out the floral and green sides. Cedarwood and vetiver in the base settle it onto a dry, woody footing.

Pansy (Perfume)

7.4

Lush · 1993

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Lush Pansy is a unisex perfume where blackberry, bergamot and orange blossom absolute build a fresh, green, floral scent. The notes aren't split into top, heart and base; the scent moves as one piece from start to finish. Bergamot brings citrus freshness, while galbanum and rosemary add a green lift. Blackberry gives a fruity, sweet touch, and orange blossom absolute pulls the whole toward a creamy floral. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and the office are the most chosen settings. Voters mostly find it feminine, though it is presented as unisex. Diptyque Ilio and M. Micallef Ô Féminin have a close profile.

Horizon (Eau de Toilette)

7.7

Guy Laroche · 1993

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Guy Laroche Horizon Eau de Toilette opens with aldehydes, sea salt and grapefruit, a fresh, green and aquatic fragrance for men that has been discontinued. The top notes bring coolness through aldehydes, sea salt, mandarin orange and mint. In the heart, pimento, black pepper and galbanum push it toward a spicy, green side. Moss, patchouli and sandalwood form a woody base, with a synthetic edge among the accords. Voters rate its longevity as good and its sillage as moderate. Most pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and the office come up most often. A little over half of voters call it masculine, and some also read it as classic.

Fidji (2003) (Eau de Toilette)

7.9

Guy Laroche · 2003

Fresh · Floral · Green

Guy Laroche Fidji (2003) Eau de Toilette is a fresh, green floral with a powdery, woody chypre feel, made for women. It opens with galbanum, jasmine, tuberose, Bulgarian rose and ylang-ylang forming a green, floral bouquet, with iris adding a powdery softness. Aldehydes and spices come forward in the heart, and sandalwood, patchouli, balsam, musk and amber give it a woody base. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, with fall close behind and winter well back. It leans towards daily wear, leisure and the office. Most voters call it feminine and classic.

In the Woods

7.4

eSENSielle · 2014

Fresh · Green · Spicy

eSENSielle In the Woods is a fresh, green and woody unisex scent with a faintly smoky, forest-floor feel, suited to spring and autumn days. It opens with Canadian hemlock, galbanum and juniper, while pink pepper and cistus add spice and resin over the cool green. In the heart, black pepper, mint and Siberian stone pine build an earthy greenery, softened by elemi resin and geranium. The base settles into labdanum, balsam fir, cedarwood and amber, leaving a woody, resinous trail. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter, and it leans towards leisure and daily wear. It reads more masculine than feminine, though many voters see it as feminine. Miller Harris Vetiver Insolent and Chanel Sycomore (2016) have a close profile.

Mercedes-Benz Le Parfum

8.1

Mercedes-Benz · 2015

Fresh · Sweet · Synthetic

Mercedes-Benz Le Parfum is a fresh yet woody, spicy men's scent that leans towards autumn and winter evenings. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evening and night out the favourite occasions, and some room left for business and daily wear. Longevity and sillage are rated good, and the character reads mostly masculine and classic. It opens with pink pepper, Italian bergamot and Cascalone®, then moves into violet leaf absolute, galbanum and saffron for a green, spicy heart. Vetiver, patchouli and oud weigh heaviest at the base, and the sweet, resinous, smoky and leathery accords add depth.

High Heel White

6.7

Roberto Ugolini · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Roberto Ugolini High Heel White is a women's fragrance that links a fresh, green opening of galbanum, mandarin orange and lemon to a powdery floral heart of rose and iris. It opens with galbanum and citrus, with coriander adding a light spice. In the heart, rose, iris and lily of the valley give a soft floral feel, while cardamom and geranium keep it lively. The base turns sweeter with vanilla and tonka bean, over a woody footing of woods and patchouli. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it also wears easily in summer; it leans towards work, leisure and daily wear. Most voters read it as feminine and classic. Calvin Klein Eternity (Eau de Parfum) and Balmain Ivoire (2012) have a close profile.

The Tycoon

8.3

St Giles · 2017

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

St Giles The Tycoon is a unisex chypre that opens with a fresh, green burst of ginger, galbanum and green lemon, then deepens into oakmoss and patchouli. The top is ginger, galbanum, green lemon and honey pomelo, a sharp, bright citrus-and-green start. The heart adds a spicy, floral layer of black pepper, tea, cypriol and magnolia. The base settles into a woody, resinous ground of labdanum, oakmoss and patchouli. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it leans towards leisure, business and daily wear. Most voters read it as masculine, though it is a unisex perfume. Goutal Eau du Sud and Caron Eaux de Caron Fraîche have a close profile.

2022 Generation Woman

8.0

Stéphane Humbert Lucas · 2013

Floral · Green · Sweet

Stéphane Humbert Lucas 2022 Generation Woman is a distinctly feminine scent that softens a floral, green structure with sweet, powdery and creamy warmth; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind, and it is worn mostly in the evening and on nights out, as well as for leisure. It reads feminine and classic. The top holds almond, neroli and nectarine, with the nectarine and almond sweetening it from the first moment. In the heart, galbanum adds a green edge while white tea and heliotrope bring a powdery softness. The base of tonka bean, sandalwood and jasmine closes it on a woody, creamy, oriental warmth.

Legesi Men (Eau de Parfum)

7.8

Armaf

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Eau de Parfum

Armaf Legesi Men Eau de Parfum is a fresh, green and citrusy fougère for men, best suited to spring and summer days and everyday wear. It opens with rosemary, petitgrain and lavender, and moves into a heart of rose, jasmine, sage and galbanum. In the base, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss and cedar settle it onto a woody footing, with a spicy, slightly synthetic edge in the background. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and summer, and winter is the least chosen season. Daily wear, work and leisure lead the occasions, and the character votes call it masculine and classic. Its profile is close to Platinum Égoïste and Cool Water.

Macaque

7.1

Zoologist · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Green

Zoologist Macaque is a fresh, green and floral unisex scent with a fruity lift and an earthy, woody side; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters lean towards spring, with autumn and summer close behind and winter further back. It suits leisure and daily wear best, and votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine, so it sits comfortably on either. It opens with red mandarin orange and green apple for freshness, while cedar lays down a woody base. In the heart, jasmine tea, ylang-ylang and honey add a soft floral note, and galbanum sharpens the green side. The base of musk, tree moss, green tea and white oud leaves a clean, earthy finish.

Lacoste Original (1984) / Lacoste (Eau de Toilette)

8.0

Lacoste · 1984

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Lacoste Original / Lacoste is a chypre fougère for men that pairs a fresh opening of bergamot, lavender and lemon with galbanum and green notes; it has been discontinued. It opens with bergamot, lemon and lime for a citrus freshness, while lavender and clary sage pull it in an aromatic direction. The heart is led by geranium, basil, galbanum and green notes, with carnation and jasmine adding a soft floral touch. In the base, vetiver, cedar, oakmoss and amber set down a dry, woody floor. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and sport come up most often. Most see it as masculine and classic. Halston Halston 1-12 and Chanel Platinum Égoïste have a close profile.

Iceberg (Eau de Toilette)

7.2

Iceberg · 1989

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Iceberg Iceberg Eau de Toilette is a fresh, citrusy women's fragrance that leans towards spring and summer days and the office; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, leisure and business come up most often. Close to half of voters read it as feminine, with some calling it classic. It opens with peach, bergamot, lemon and neroli for a citrusy freshness, while galbanum and basil add a green edge. The heart brings lily of the valley, rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang as a soft floral layer. Vetiver, cedar, sandalwood and oakmoss settle into a woody, chypre base.

Live in Love

7.1

Oscar de la Renta · 2012

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Oscar de la Renta Live in Love is a fresh, citrusy, floral women's fragrance that leans towards everyday wear, though it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters recommend it for spring and summer, and daily, leisure and business wear lead the occasions. More than half of voters read it as feminine. It opens with bergamot, green violet and galbanum for a fresh, green start, with hyacinth and ginger orchid adding a floral edge. The heart brings orange blossom, jasmine sambac and rose. The base settles into musk, white woods, cedarwood and sandalwood, softened by sweet amber.

Mutiny

7.1

Maison Margiela · 2018

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Maison Margiela Mutiny is a floral and sweet women's perfume, hardened by spice, powder and leather. Jasmine, tuberose and orange blossom carry the floral weight, while vanilla pulls the scent towards a creamy sweetness. Saffron and frankincense add a spicy, oriental shade, and oud and cedarwood keep the texture dry and leathery. A fruity, synthetic brightness runs through it. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter, and nights out and evenings lead the occasions. Most find it feminine, though many call it modern. Mugler Alien Fusion and Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Musk (Eau de Toilette)

7.6

Lorenzo Villoresi · 1995

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Toilette

Lorenzo Villoresi Musk Eau de Toilette is a unisex scent that sets musk, vanilla and sandalwood on a soft, powdery floral base. Bergamot, cardamom and galbanum open fresh and lightly spicy. In the heart, geranium and rose bring out the floral side. In the base, musk, vanilla and sandalwood sweeten and soften it, while rosewood and oakmoss add a woody, faintly animal depth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters lean towards fall and spring, with leisure and evening wear coming first. Though it is unisex, most voters read it as feminine. Gale Hayman Glamour and Vivienne Westwood Boudoir have a close profile.

Alien Eau Sublime

8.0

Mugler · 2017

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Mugler Alien Eau Sublime is a fresh, sweet and creamy mix of citrus and flowers, aimed at women; it has been discontinued. It opens with mandarin orange, orange and galbanum, where the citrus brightness gets a green edge from the galbanum. In the heart, tiaré, heliotrope and jasmine add a soft, creamy floral note, and white amber and cashmere wood dry it down to a sweet, woody warmth. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and summer, with winter far behind. It leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office, and voters read it as feminine and modern. Dior Pure Poison and Chanel Gabrielle Chanel (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

One Man Show Oud Edition

7.4

Jacques Bogart · 2014

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

Jacques Bogart One Man Show Oud Edition is a smoky, spicy masculine scent built around oud, leather and patchouli, best suited to autumn and winter evenings. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evenings and nights out come up most often. It reads masculine and classic. It opens with galbanum, bergamot and red thyme, a slightly green, sharp start. In the heart, geranium, spices and oud take over; papyrus, patchouli and leather then settle it onto a woody, earthy, leathery base. The overall impression is synthetic, resinous and animalic. Floris Leather Oud and Sentifique Testostérone have a close profile.

Fleur de Lalita

7.3

Dusita · 2018

Fresh · Floral · Green

Dusita Fleur de Lalita is a unisex perfume that opens with green freshness and settles from a floral, powdery character into a creamy sweetness. The top is led by May rose, Madonna lily, magnolia absolute and galbanum, so the flowers sit alongside a green edge. Indian ambrette seed forms the heart. In the base, tonka bean, Bourbon vanilla absolute and Mysore sandalwood soften and sweeten the scent, adding a woody warmth. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, office and daytime wear lead the occasions. Nearly half of voters read it as feminine, though it works as a unisex scent. Rancé 1795 Joséphine and Jo Malone Mimosa & Cardamom (Cologne) have a close profile.

Infusion de Rose (2017)

7.7

Prada · 2017

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Prada Infusion de Rose is a fresh, floral unisex scent that leans towards spring and summer, suited to daytime, work and leisure for anyone wanting a light, clean rose. Most voters recommend spring and summer, with daily wear, leisure and business leading the occasions. Longevity and sillage are moderate, so it stays calm and close. Nearly half of voters read it as feminine, though it works as unisex too. Citrus and green accords come forward: Italian mandarin orange and African neroli brighten it, while galbanum adds a green crispness. Bulgarian rose and Turkish rose form the floral centre, softened by a powdery smoothness. Prada Infusion de Rose (2011) and Prada Infusion d'Iris (Eau de Parfum) (2007) have a close profile.

Mystère (Eau de Parfum)

8.2

Rochas · 1978

Floral · Green · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Rochas Mystère Eau de Parfum is a chypre built on a green opening of galbanum, hyacinth and coriander, leading into a floral heart of jasmine, tuberose and ylang-ylang. It has been discontinued and is made for women. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen mainly for evenings and nights out. Most votes call it feminine and classic, though a fair number find it masculine. The green, hyacinth and coriander opening gives way to a floral heart where tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and violet lead. In the base, cedar, patchouli, oakmoss and musk dry it down with a woody, spicy and animalic weight. Animale Animale and Lancôme Magie Noire have a close profile.

Noir de Réminiscence

7.3

Réminiscence · 2009

Fresh · Floral · Green

Réminiscence Noir de Réminiscence is a men's fragrance with a green, fresh opening over a smoky, resinous and woody body; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it scores highest for evenings and nights out. Voters mostly read it as masculine. It opens fresh and green with galbanum, eucalyptus and bergamot, then moves into a woody heart of cedarwood, patchouli and rose. The base settles on frankincense, sandalwood and Bourbon vanilla, leaving a spicy, earthy and lightly sweet resinous finish. Etro Shaal Nur and Marc Gebauer Berserker have a close profile.

She Wood Velvet Forest Wood

7.4

Dsquared² · 2009

Fresh · Floral · Green

Dsquared² She Wood Velvet Forest Wood is a green, woody women's fragrance that sits most comfortably in spring and autumn, for daytime and office wear. It has been discontinued. It opens with green leaves and galbanum, a sharp, fresh greenness. In the heart, violet leaf, pine needle and kingwood move it into a floral, resinous woodiness. The base of vetiver, patchouli, musk and amber closes it with an earthy, slightly powdery and spicy warmth. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring, autumn and summer, with winter well behind. Daily wear, leisure and business are the most chosen settings, and it is most often called feminine.