The Perfume Library

Jubilation XXV Man

8.4

Amouage · 2008

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Amouage Jubilation XXV Man is a resinous, smoky fragrance in which orange, clove and cinnamon meet honey, setting a fruity sweetness over a spicy, woody base. It opens with orange, blackberry and coriander giving a fruity brightness, while frankincense and labdanum slip resin underneath. In the heart, clove, cinnamon and honey build a sweet spiciness; the base of oud, myrrh and patchouli leaves a smoky, woody depth. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads masculine, with a classic side as well. Killer Oud Jubilant and Amouage Jubilation 40 have a close profile.

Chergui (Eau de Parfum)

8.1

Serge Lutens · 2001

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Serge Lutens Chergui Eau de Parfum is a sweet, smoky and spicy scent built on Russian leather, immortelle and hay, suited to fall and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and few choose summer. It is favoured most for evenings and nights out. It is unisex, reading slightly more masculine than feminine. Russian leather and hay give it a dry, leathery frame, while immortelle sweetens it. The sweet and gourmand accords lead, with spice, resin and a powdery woodiness alongside. As a whole it feels warm and oriental. Serge Lutens Toison d'Or - Chergui and Zara Bohemian Oud have a close profile.

Chypre Palatin

8.3

Parfums MDCI · 2012

Floral · Green · Fruity

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin is a floral, green chypre with a leathery, resinous and slightly animalic warmth, aimed at men. It opens green and aromatic with mandarin orange, thyme, lavender and galbanum. The heart builds a powdery floral body from gardenia, jasmine, rose and iris, with plum adding a fruity sweetness. In the base, leather, Tolu balm, benzoin, vanilla absolute and oakmoss settle it onto a resinous, leathery, sweet footing. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall, winter and spring; few choose summer. It leans towards evenings and nights out. Most voters read it as masculine, though a fair share find it feminine. Elsa Schiaparelli Shocking You and Rochas Femme have a close profile.

Plum Japonais

8.3

Tom Ford · 2013

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Tom Ford Plum Japonais is a sweet, warm unisex scent built around plum liqueur and spice, best suited to autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Plum liqueur and ume carry the fruity sweetness, while saffron and Laotian cinnamon add a spicy warmth. Vanilla, amber and Siam benzoin push it towards a gourmand, resinous character, with oud and fir balsam absolute giving it a woody, slightly smoky base and Japanese camellia adding a soft floral touch. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions, while summer is rarely chosen. Votes for feminine and masculine are equal, so it sits comfortably on either. Lattafa Oud Mood and Weil Suki Essence have a close profile.

Freefall - Etruscan Water

8.0

Francesca Bianchi · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Francesca Bianchi Freefall - Etruscan Water is a fresh, green chypre in which bergamot, grapefruit and green mandarin meet oakmoss and vetiver. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and spring, and it suits evenings and leisure time. Voters mostly read it as masculine, though it is a unisex fragrance. The citrus notes give it a bright start, petitgrain and basil push the green side, and jasmine and orris root add a soft floral touch. Caraway brings spice, while labdanum and ambergris lend a resinous, animal depth. Oakmoss and vetiver keep it on an earthy, woody base.

1740

8.0

Histoires de Parfums · 2008

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Histoires de Parfums 1740 is a spicy, leathery men's fragrance suited to autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with summer a distant last. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, and less for daily wear. Voters mostly read it as masculine and classic. It opens with bergamot and davana, then coriander, cardamom and patchouli add a spicy heart. The base is led by labdanum, cedar, immortelle, vanilla, birch and leather, so the scent turns sweet, smoky and earthy, with a resinous warmth. Marc Gebauer Air Tiger and Dior Leather Oud have a close profile.

1270

7.6

Frapin · 2008

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Frapin 1270 is a sweet, gourmand unisex scent built on raisin, cocoa and coffee that settles into tonka and vanilla. The top is led by raisin, cocoa, coffee and hazelnut, with candied bitter orange peel adding a slight edge to the sweetness. Linden tree, pepper and spices move into the heart and dry the fruity sweetness. The base of white honey, vanilla and gaiac wood leaves a warm, woody, resinous finish. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen most often for evenings and nights out. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it reads as suited to either.

Anubis

8.2

Papillon Artisan Perfumes · 2012

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Papillon Artisan Perfumes Anubis is a resinous, smoky unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters read it as masculine, though some call it feminine or classic. The scent sits in a floral, spicy and woody frame. Egyptian jasmine and pink lotus carry the floral side, with saffron adding spice. Sandalwood, frankincense and labdanum give a resinous, woody warmth, suede adds a leathery touch and immortelle a dry edge. Animal and smoky accords pull it towards the darker side. Nishane Mana and Gritti Florian have a close profile.

Like This / Like This - Tilda Swinton

7.1

Etat Libre d'Orange · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Etat Libre d'Orange Like This / Like This - Tilda Swinton is a floral, sweet and spicy scent built around ginger, mandarin orange and rose. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, with some votes for the office and evening. It is classed as feminine, though some voters read it as masculine. It opens with ginger, pumpkin and mandarin orange, which give a fruity lift. Rose, neroli and immortelle bring the floral heart forward. Vetiver, musk and heliotrope settle into a woody, powdery, gourmand warmth at the base. Acqua di Parma Vaniglia and Penhaligon's Cornubia have a close profile.

Sex and The Sea (Extrait de Parfum)

6.6

Francesca Bianchi · 2016

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Extrait de Parfum

Francesca Bianchi Sex and The Sea Extrait de Parfum is a floral, sweet unisex scent that most voters place in spring and summer, for leisure time and evenings out. Rose, iris and mimosa form a floral frame, while pineapple and coconut add a fruity, creamy sweetness. Vanilla, benzoin and sandalwood soften that sweetness, civet and ambergris bring an animal depth, and immortelle and myrrh add a spicy edge. A synthetic sheen runs through the blend. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, with winter the least chosen. More voters find it feminine than masculine, though a fair number read it as masculine. Gritti Anima and Sarah Baker Perfumes Jungle Jezebel share a close profile.

Tabac Tabou

7.9

Parfum d'Empire · 2015

Floral · Green · Sweet

Parfum d'Empire Tabac Tabou is a unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings, setting a sweet side against a smoky one. Tobacco and honey lead: the honey brings sweetness while the tobacco adds a dry, smoky edge. Wild herbs give a green freshness, and immortelle and narcissus draw a floral, slightly earthy background. The sensual skin accord adds an animal, leathery warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn, then winter, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions. Voters read it as mostly masculine and classic, though a good number call it feminine. Mad et Len Vetyver Bucolique and Pekji Zeybek have a close profile.

L'Eau des Hespérides

7.2

Diptyque · 2008

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Diptyque L'Eau des Hespérides is a fresh, citrus-led unisex scent with a green, spicy edge and a lightly woody base, suited to warm weather and the daytime. Bitter orange and lemon carry most of the weight and keep it bright. Peppermint adds a green, spicy coolness, while immortelle softens the citrus with a dry, woody depth. The notes read as one fresh, dry impression rather than separate layers. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, so it stays close without pushing itself on a room. Most voters pick summer and spring, and favor leisure, daily wear and the office. Masculine and feminine votes are almost level, so it sits right between the two. Chanel Paris - Édimbourg and Le Couvent Aqua Millefolia have a close profile.

Sex and The Sea Neroli (Extrait de Parfum)

7.3

Francesca Bianchi · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Extrait de Parfum

Francesca Bianchi Sex and The Sea Neroli Extrait de Parfum is a unisex scent that suits spring and summer days as well as evenings out, pairing fresh citrus with sweet resin. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn not far behind, and it is worn mostly for leisure, evenings and nights out. More voters call it feminine, though a fair share see it as masculine. Neroli, bergamot and petitgrain bring the freshness; rose, iris and mimosa add a soft floral touch. Honey, vanilla, benzoin and coconut sweeten it and make it creamy, while sandalwood and labdanum form a woody, resinous base. Civet adds a faint animal warmth.

The Afternoon of a Faun

7.4

Etat Libre d'Orange · 2012

Floral · Green · Spicy

Etat Libre d'Orange The Afternoon of a Faun is a unisex chypre built around jasmine, cinnamon and benzoin, with a floral, spicy and resinous character. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin rather than filling a room. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring, and it is worn mostly for leisure, evenings and daily use. Voters are split on whether it reads masculine or feminine, so it moves easily between the two. Jasmine and rose form a floral base, with iris adding a soft, powdery edge. Cinnamon and pepper bring spicy warmth, while benzoin, Namibian myrrh and frankincense give it a resinous depth. Leather, moss and immortelle add earthy, green and leathery dryness throughout, and bergamot lifts the dense mix slightly.

L'Homme Sage

7.8

Divine · 2005

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Divine L'Homme Sage is a woody, earthy men's fragrance that balances a fruity sweetness with spice, resin and smoke. It opens with lychee, mandarin orange, saffron and cardamom, where the fruit sweetness is cut by spice. In the heart, balsam, patchouli and immortelle lay down a woody, powdery and slightly smoky base that carries through. Frankincense, oakmoss and amber settle it into a resinous, earthy sweetness. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind. Leisure, evening, night out and business all draw similar votes, and most voters find it masculine and classic. M8 Moods Fumoso and Odin New York 03 Century have a close profile.

Vetiver Royal Bourbon (2014)

8.0

Oriza L. Legrand · 2014

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Oriza L. Legrand Vetiver Royal Bourbon is a masculine vetiver fragrance that joins a fresh, green start to a woody, smoky, earthy body. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, with summer and winter further behind. It leans towards leisure, evening and daily wear, and also suits the office. Voters call it masculine and classic. Peppermint, thyme and vetiver absolute give a cool, green, spicy start. The heart holds labdanum, Bourbon vetiver, sandalwood and iris. In the base, tobacco, leather and oakmoss pull it towards a smoky, resinous warmth. Chanel Sycomore and Etro Vetiver have a close profile.

Ambre Suprême

8.0

Les Indémodables · 2021

Fresh · Floral · Aquatic

Les Indémodables Ambre Suprême is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, floral character with aquatic, spicy and woody touches, and it suits a wide stretch of the year from spring to autumn. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring and autumn, with summer and winter a little behind. Leisure and evening are the most chosen occasions. Votes for masculine and feminine are close, so the scent leans neither way. It opens with Madagascan pink pepper, aldehydes, clary sage and Indian cardamom, a cool, spicy brightness. In the heart, Moroccan jasmine absolute, neroli and patchouli build a floral body. At the base, immortelle and ambergris settle it into a woody, animalic warmth. Yves Saint Laurent Kouros (Eau de Toilette) and Maison Anthony Marmin Imperial Ambergris have a close profile.

Dubai - Bahar (Eau de Parfum)

7.8

The Spirit of Dubai · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Parfum

The Spirit of Dubai Dubai - Bahar Eau de Parfum is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent that rests its fruity sweetness on a warm, woody base. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it is chosen for daily wear, leisure and the office. Masculine gets the most character votes, followed by modern and feminine. The top opens bright with mandarin orange, bergamot, grapefruit and pineapple. Rose, jasmine and sandalwood form the heart, and vanilla, amber and musk sweeten the dry-down. Nabeel Ocean and Nabeel Golden Beach have a close profile.

Mistpouffer

8.0

Stora Skuggan · 2019

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Stora Skuggan Mistpouffer is a unisex scent that opens with bergamot and immortelle, then turns green and smoky through pine and vetiver. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn, winter and spring, with summer well behind, and the perfume leans towards leisure time and evenings. Votes for masculine and feminine are almost level, so it reads comfortably on either. Bergamot and immortelle come first, then pine, ozone and fig leaf give the heart a fresh, green feel. In the base, vetiver, smoke and cypriol set a woody, resinous footing, and malt sugar softens the smokiness with a little sweetness.

Cacao Porcelana

7.2

Atelier Materi · 2019

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Atelier Materi Cacao Porcelana is a unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter, pairing a sweet, gourmand character with powdery florals. It wears with good longevity and moderate sillage. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it suits leisure time and evenings best. Feminine and masculine votes are close, so it sits in the middle of the gender line. It opens with white cocoa, rum and immortelle, and the heart brings jasminum auriculatum, davana and blond tobacco. Patchouli, sandalwood and tonka bean make up the base. The floral and spicy sides settle into a creamy, woody sweetness.

Rhinoceros (2014)

7.1

Zoologist · 2014

Green · Spicy · Woody

Zoologist Rhinoceros is a green, smoky and leathery unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening, leisure and night out the favoured occasions, while daily and business wear lag behind. Most voters read it as masculine, with a classic bearing as well. It opens with bergamot, sage and lavender over coniferous woods, then pine, oud and tobacco take over in the heart. The base settles into vetiver, leather, smoke and amber. The overall feel is woody, earthy and spicy, with animal and resinous touches. Caron Yatagan and Amouage Epic Man have a close profile.

Unspoken Musk (Extrait de Parfum)

7.1

Francesca Bianchi · 2022

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Extrait de Parfum

Francesca Bianchi Unspoken Musk Extrait de Parfum is a sweet, powdery musk with an animal warmth, best suited to autumn and winter evenings. It opens with immortelle and bergamot, and the heart of magnolia and orris butter turns it powdery and creamy. In the base, tonka bean, vanilla and musk bring sweetness, sandalwood and patchouli soften it, and castoreum and civet leave an animal trace. Longevity is strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evening and leisure wear leading. It is unisex, though slightly more voters call it feminine. Freefall - Lost In Heaven and Angel's Dust have a close profile.

Helicriss

6.5

Sylvaine Delacourte · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Green

Sylvaine Delacourte Helicriss is a discontinued unisex scent that ties the freshness of bergamot, rosemary and lemon to the warmth of immortelle and cinnamon. It opens fresh and green with bergamot, rosemary, lemon and grapefruit. In the heart, immortelle and cinnamon add a spicy warmth. The base of tonka bean, benzoin, patchouli, musk and frankincense sweetens the scent and settles it onto a powdery, woody footing. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick autumn and spring, then summer, and it leans towards leisure, daily and business wear. Feminine and masculine votes are close, so it truly sits between the two. Lubin Black Jade and Parfums de Marly Darley have a close profile.

Halfeti Cedar

7.6

Penhaligon's · 2020

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Penhaligon's Halfeti Cedar is a discontinued unisex fragrance that pairs saffron, cardamom and cedar in a sweet, spicy, woody style. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen most often for evenings and nights out. Though unisex, half of the voters find it masculine. It opens with saffron, cardamom, peach and rum. The heart holds dried fruits, immortelle, cinnamon and Virginia cedar. The base of Atlas cedar, patchouli, tonka bean, labdanum and vanilla carries it into a sweet, resinous, earthy woodiness, with fruity and oriental accords alongside. French Avenue Inej and Avapari Pure Amber have a close profile.