The Perfume Library

Ambre Muscadin

7.0

LM Parfums · 2011

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

LM Parfums Ambre Muscadin builds on Bourbon vanilla absolute, white honey and Siam benzoin for a sweet, resinous, gourmand unisex amber that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with Atlas cedar, violet and Java vetiver, which lay a woody, lightly powdery base. In the heart, vanilla and white honey take over and sweeten it, while benzoin, musk and amber finish it warm and resinous. Spicy, smoky and leathery touches keep the sweetness from turning soft. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is worn mostly in the evening and on nights out. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it sits in the middle between the two. Perfumes with a close profile include Michele Bergman Black Amber and Kilian Amber Oud.

Vetiver

7.8

Hiram Green · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Hiram Green Vetiver is a green, earthy unisex vetiver that opens with citrus fruits and ginger and puts Java and Haitian vetiver at its centre; it has been discontinued. It begins fresh and lightly spicy, with citrus fruits and ginger. At the heart, Java vetiver and Haitian vetiver take over, giving a green, woody, earthy feel with a faint smoky edge. Ambrette seed and cedarwood keep that dry, woody character going in the base, rounding it off softly. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it wears calmly and close. Most voters pick spring, autumn and summer, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Though unisex, more votes read it as masculine. Dior Vétiver and Heeley Vetiver Veritas have a close profile.

Yara

8.2

Parfums d'Elmar · 2024

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Parfums d'Elmar Yara is a sweet, spicy and woody unisex scent that deepens into leathery, smoky tones and suits autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, spring follows, and summer is rarely chosen. It is worn mostly in the evening and on nights out. Though unisex, most voters read it as masculine. Saffron, pink pepper and bergamot open it spicy and bright. In the heart, tonka bean, rose and Jasminum grandiflorum soften the sweetness. The base of musk, leather, Java vetiver, cedarwood and amber settles into a woody, smoky foundation.

II-III (homage to) Hemingway

7.7

Masque · 2018

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Masque II-III Hemingway is a fresh, earthy woody scent that sets three kinds of vetiver beside ginger, rhubarb, patchouli, cedarwood and leather. Ginger and rhubarb give it a fresh, lightly spicy, green start. Vetiver sits in the heart, while Haitian and Java vetiver join patchouli, cedarwood and leather at the base. The overall impression is green, earthy and smoky, with the leather staying in the background rather than turning harsh. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters lean towards spring and fall, and name leisure, evening and business settings. Most see it as masculine, though it is classed as unisex. Two perfumes with a close profile are Hermès Bel Ami Vétiver and Hiram Green Vetiver.

Attar AT

8.1

Tauer Perfumes · 2017

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Tauer Perfumes Attar AT is a woody, spicy unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. It smells dense and dark from start to finish: Spanish cistus and Mysore sandalwood build a warm, resinous base, while Java vetiver pulls it towards earthy and smoky ground. Egyptian jasmine absolute adds a floral softness, but the leathery and animal tones stay close behind. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and evenings and nights out lead the occasions. It reads more masculine than feminine, though it works as unisex. Tauer Perfumes L'Oudh and Ajmal Mukhallat Al Shams have a close profile.

Vetiver Velours

7.6

Keiko Mecheri · 2012

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Keiko Mecheri Vetiver Velours is a sweet, green vetiver that leans towards fall and winter, and as a unisex scent it moves from the office to evenings out. It opens with Java vetiver and citrus notes, fresh and earthy in feel. The heart holds tobacco, toffee and green notes, and the sweetness comes forward here. In the base, musk, precious woods and benzoin settle the scent into a powdery, resinous, woody warmth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring and winter, with summer chosen least. Votes split fairly evenly between feminine and masculine. Cartier Pasha de Cartier Édition Noire and Serge Lutens Vétiver oriental have a close profile.

Garuda

7.9

Jul et Mad · 2015

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Jul et Mad Garuda is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex fragrance built around cumin, saffron and Cambodian oud. It opens with orange, bergamot and pink pepper alongside cumin, giving a spicy start. Oud, saffron and rum lead the heart. In the base, vanilla, amber, cedarwood and patchouli sweeten it into a warm, woody, powdery and resinous finish. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads somewhat more masculine, though a good share of voters find it feminine. Spirit of Kings Loyalty and Sospiro Farsa have a close profile.

Lunar Vetiver

8.3

Amouroud · 2018

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Amouroud Lunar Vetiver is a fresh, earthy unisex scent that opens on bergamot and pink pepper and settles into Java vetiver. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick spring, fall and summer, with winter getting the fewest votes. It leans towards business, leisure and daily wear, and less towards evenings or nights out. Most voters read it as masculine or classic. Citrus and spicy accords come first through bergamot, pink pepper and pimento. In the heart, night-blooming cereus, sage and vanilla add a floral, green softness. The base of tonka bean, tobacco flower and Java vetiver leaves a creamy, woody, earthy finish.

Black Widow

7.4

The Dua Brand · 2017

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

The Dua Brand Black Widow is a dark, gourmand unisex scent led by coffee, dark chocolate and caramel, suited to evenings in the colder months. The weight sits on bittersweet notes: dark chocolate and coffee are softened by caramel and sugar cane, while rum and almond add a warm depth to the dessert-like core. Sandalwood and Java vetiver build a dry, woody base, and the spicy and resinous accords keep the sweetness from turning cloying. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and night outs and evenings lead the occasions. Votes for masculine and feminine are equal, so it sits comfortably on either. Emper Phantom My Hero and French Avenue Spectre Wraith have a close profile.

Scorza di Sicilia

7.0

Berdoues · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Berdoues Scorza di Sicilia is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent that suits summer and spring days; it has been discontinued. Voters place it mostly in summer and spring, for daily wear, leisure and the office, while few choose it for evenings. Its longevity and sillage are moderate, so it leaves a calm trail on the skin. Votes on character split almost evenly between feminine and masculine, and it sits comfortably on either. Calabrian lemon opens it brightly, Virginia cedar forms the heart and Java vetiver gives the base a dry, woody footing. Beside the fresh, citrus character there are floral, green and fruity tones and a light spicy touch. Durance en Provence Pétillante Verveine and Atelier Cologne Grand Néroli have a close profile.

Capua

6.4

Electimuss · 2019

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Electimuss Capua is a spicy, woody and resinous unisex fragrance with smoky, earthy undertones, leaning towards evenings and the colder months. It opens with elemi resin, cypress, Sicilian bergamot and Madagascan tagetes, then moves to Egyptian cumin, cedar and nagarmotha in the heart. Java vetiver, cedar, cashmere wood and amber form the base. The overall impression is dry, spicy and woody, with an earthy weight underneath. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. It reads masculine to most, though as a unisex scent it can be worn by anyone. Etro Patchouly (Eau de Toilette) and Lattafa Pride Hala have a close note and accord profile.

Phoenician Leather / Phoenicia

7.9

Heeley · 2014

Fruity · Spicy · Woody

Heeley Phoenician Leather / Phoenicia is a smoky, leathery and resinous woody oriental, a unisex scent that leans masculine and suits fall and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, while spring and summer trail behind. Evening and night out lead the occasions, with leisure and daily wear following. Nearly half of voters read it as masculine. Sandalwood, cedarwood, birch wood and oud form a woody frame, while labdanum and frankincense add a smoky, resinous warmth. Raisin and date soften that dryness with fruity sweetness, and Java vetiver brings an earthy tone. A spicy accord keeps the whole thing warm.

Intimate Incense

6.4

Birkholz · 2020

Spicy · Woody · Resinous

Birkholz Intimate Incense is a unisex scent where a spicy, woody base carries resinous, smoky and leathery tones, leaning towards autumn and winter evenings. Pepper, bergamot and lavender open sharp and aromatic. In the heart, benzoin, Java vetiver and ambergris take over, and cedarwood, frankincense and leather hold the woody, smoky character through the base. Longevity and sillage are rated as good by voters. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evenings and nights out leading the occasions. Most voters read it as masculine. PantaRei Darwish and Tauerville Incense Flash have a close profile.

Abu Dhabi

7.9

Memo Paris · 2024

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Memo Paris Abu Dhabi ties the spicy brightness of orange, pink pepper and Indian cardamom to a sweet, fruity core of date and plum, and suits fall and winter evenings as a unisex scent. It opens with Brazilian orange, bergamot, pink pepper, cardamom and ginger, with Somalian frankincense adding a resinous shade. In the heart, date and plum turn sweeter, softened by North African orange blossom. The base of patchouli, vetiver and labdanum settles it on a woody, smoky, leathery ground, while vanillin keeps a gourmand sweetness running through it. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evenings and nights out leading and leisure wear also common. Masculine leads the character votes, yet modern and feminine follow closely, so it reads as truly unisex.

Cologne du Maghreb (2021)

7.7

Tauer Perfumes · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Tauer Perfumes Cologne du Maghreb is a unisex cologne that joins a fresh opening of bergamot, grapefruit and lavender to a floral heart of rose and orange blossom. Citrus leads at first: bergamot, grapefruit, clementine and lemon, with rosemary and clary sage adding a green, herbal edge. The heart brings Moroccan rose, neroli and orange blossom forward, and the base settles into a sweet, woody floor of labdanum, Java vetiver and Atlas cedar. Longevity and sillage are rated weak, so it is best enjoyed close to the skin. Most voters pick summer and spring, and leisure, daily wear and the office are the occasions named most often. It leans masculine in the votes, though a good share also call it feminine.

Comme 3

7.5

Comme des Garçons · 2002

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Comme des Garçons Comme 3 is a unisex fragrance with a fresh, green and spicy character, backed by a light earthy and woody base that suits everyday wear. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it is noticeable up close without filling a room. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it leans towards daily, leisure and business settings. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, which puts it somewhere in between. Mandarin orange, cardamom and basil bring the freshness, while guinea pepper and red pepper add a dry warmth. Jasmine sambac and magnolia leaf soften the floral side, and patchouli, Java vetiver, sandalwood and cedar give it a woody, earthy footing.

Hedera

7.6

L'Erbolario · 2012

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

L'Erbolario Hedera is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent that suits spring and summer days; though discontinued, it offers a light green-floral character for everyday wear. Hedera opens bright with bergamot, lemon and grapefruit leaf, softened by orange blossom. In the heart, ivy, pineapple and Damask rose lead, with water jasmine and lavender adding a green, fruity touch. Cedarwood, vetiver and coconut gather it onto a woody base. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it is chosen for leisure, daily wear and the office, rarely for evening or night out. Feminine and masculine votes sit close together, so it reads comfortably on either side. Al Haramain Neroli Canvas and DSH Perfumes Aqua Admirabilis have a close profile.

Boisé Fruité

6.5

Montale · 2009

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Montale Boisé Fruité is a unisex scent that sets the fresh citrus of mandarin orange leaf, Italian bergamot and lime over a woody base of vetiver and sandalwood. It opens with those three citrus notes, fresh, green and lightly fruity. Violet leaf brings a floral, green touch in the heart. Java vetiver and Mysore sandalwood settle underneath and give the dry-down a woody line. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, with summer close behind. It leans towards leisure and daily wear and also suits the office. Votes for masculine and feminine are nearly even, so it sits between the two. Escentric Molecules Escentric 02 and Commodity Bergamot have a close profile.

Kayu Kretek

8.1

N•O•A•M · 2022

Citrus · Green · Spicy

N•O•A•M Kayu Kretek is a smoky, spicy unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings best, though it wears easily in spring too. Most voters find its longevity strong and its sillage good. Evenings, leisure and nights out lead, while business and daily wear are chosen less often. More voters call it masculine than feminine, though the feminine share is far from small. The scent is woody, resinous and earthy, with a citrus and green freshness on top. Indonesian lime and star anise meet clove and pimento for warmth. Oud, cedarwood and patchouli build a dry body, which vanilla and benzoin sweeten slightly, and burley tobacco absolute deepens the smoky feel. Bay rum and Peru balsam round out the warm, resinous texture.

Le Loden

7.0

Jacques Fath · 2018

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Jacques Fath Le Loden is a unisex scent built around vetiver and green mandarin, moving from a fresh, green opening into a woody, earthy and smoky base. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring close behind. Leisure, business and evening wear are rated about equally, and it reads mostly masculine. It opens with green mandarin, ginger and pink pepper, bright and spicy. In the heart, juniper berry, raspberry leaf absolute and geranium keep the green note going, with vetiver present throughout. In the base, patchouli, tobacco and ylang-ylang turn it resinous, smoky and earthy.

Fundamental (2015)

7.7

Rubini · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Rubini Fundamental is a unisex scent that sets fresh citrus against a leathery, smoky woodiness; it has been discontinued. It opens with white grape, mandarin orange and bergamot, a sweet and fruity freshness. In the heart, Italian orris butter, beeswax absolute, labdanum, clary sage absolute and lavender bring a floral, green side. The base of Atlas cedar, sandalwood, Java vetiver, leather and cocoa absolute dries down into a warm, woody, animal and smoky finish. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads balanced between the two. Rubini Fundamental (2023) and Aigner Black for Women have a close profile.

Emerald

8.3

Nebiru Parfvms · 2024

Floral · Green · Spicy

Nebiru Parfvms Emerald is a spicy, woody unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings, nights out and relaxed leisure wear, though it reads more masculine; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind. Most voters also place it in the evening, night out and leisure. On character, masculine leads, followed by classic and feminine. It opens with saffron, black pepper, cinnamon and clove for a spicy start. In the heart, rose, magnolia and vanilla add a soft, sweet floral touch. The base rests on oud, vetiver and oakmoss, giving a woody, earthy and smoky ground, with leathery and animal accords deepening the dark mood.

Grain de Plaisir

7.7

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier · 1998

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Grain de Plaisir is a fresh masculine fragrance that sets mint, lemon and celery seed against the green, earthy woodiness of fir and vetiver. It opens with aldehydes, mint and lemon for a cool brightness. The heart of celery seed, mastic, myrtle and lavender turns spicy, resinous and green. The base of fir absolute, sandalwood, Java vetiver and musk settles into a calm, woody, earthy finish. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall, while winter has the fewest votes. It leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters find it masculine, though a good share call it feminine.

Vétiver

8.2

Goutal · 1985

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Goutal Vétiver is a fresh, green men's fragrance that settles into an earthy, smoky woodiness; it has been discontinued. It lasts well and projects at a moderate level, staying fairly close to the skin. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn close behind. Daily wear, leisure and the office lead, while evening and night out sit further back. Half of voters call it masculine, and some find it classic. It opens on Java vetiver, with spices in the heart. In the base, sandalwood, tonka bean and tobacco add a sweet, smoky warmth. The spicy, woody side gradually settles over the fresh green start. Chanel Sycomore and Hermès Vétiver Tonka have a close profile.