The Perfume Library

Smoky Soul

7.9

Olfactive Studio · 2023

Floral · Green · Fruity

Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul is a unisex scent that sets a floral, green heart against smoky, earthy and leathery tones. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. It is chosen mostly for leisure and evening wear. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. It leans neither clearly masculine nor feminine, as votes split between the two. It opens with Chinese osmanthus absolute and Indian black pepper, spicy and slightly fruity. In the heart, Turkish rose, Ceylon tea and Jasminum auriculatum absolute pull the floral side towards green. The base of French kelp absolute, Java vetiver and Indonesian patchouli is woody and earthy. Diptyque Kyoto and Moth and Rabbit Melancholia have a close profile.

Danse Lascive

7.9

Angelos Créations Olfactives · 2023

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Angelos Créations Olfactives Danse Lascive is a unisex scent that sets rose, leather and tobacco on an animalic, smoky base. It opens with Bulgarian damask rose, black rose and Greek saffron, while silver birch and Bourbon geranium give that floral start a spicy, slightly sharp edge. The heart is led by black leather, suede and Bulgarian tobacco absolute, with animalic notes darkening the leathery texture. In the dry-down, Atlas cedar, vetiver, oakmoss, labdanum and frankincense form a woody, resinous base, while civet and cigarette keep the smoky, animalic tone going. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it is seen as better suited to evenings and nights out. It leans masculine, though a good share of voters call it feminine or classic.

Eau du Gouverneur / L'Homme

7.5

Comptoir Sud Pacifique · 1993

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Comptoir Sud Pacifique Eau du Gouverneur / L'Homme is a fresh, citrusy men's scent that suits spring and summer days, rounded off with spice and wood. It opens with vervain, lemon and bergamot, a bright and green start. In the heart, pimento, nutmeg, pepper and clove add spicy warmth, while clary sage softens it. The base of Java vetiver, musk, Atlas cedar and tonka bean settles it into a balanced, woody finish. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, office and leisure lead the occasions. Most voters read it as masculine, and some call it classic. Its profile is close to Victor Victor Original (Eau de Toilette) and Acqua di Parma Colonia C.L.U.B.

Oud pour Lui

7.1

Alyssa Ashley · 2012

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Alyssa Ashley Oud pour Lui is a men's fragrance that sets oud, amber and Java vetiver in a spicy, smoky frame, and it suits evenings and cooler seasons. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, while office and daily wear get fewer votes. Many read it as masculine. Moroccan saffron, Egyptian geranium and Sicilian lemon open the top. Cumin, African frankincense and Jasminum auriculatum form the heart. Oud, Java vetiver and amber dominate the base, and the spicy, woody, resinous character settles into an animal, leathery edge. Farmacia SS. Annunziata Whisky Oud and Xerjoff 'Ilm have a close profile.

Accord No. 02: Cade

7.3

Raer Scents · 2017

Green · Spicy · Woody

Raer Scents Accord No. 02: Cade is a unisex scent built around silver spruce, Himalayan fir and Canary Islands juniper, with a woody, resinous feel; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. Most voters read it as masculine, though it works as unisex. The scent runs green and woody, with resinous and smoky accords adding a spicy edge. Frankincense and gaiac wood deepen the dryness, and Java vetiver gives an earthy base. Neroli and Bourbon vanilla soften the edges slightly. Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste and Santa Maria Novella Incenso have a close profile.

Burnana

8.0

OM Parfum · 2024

Fruity · Spicy · Woody

OM Parfum Burnana is a unisex scent with a fruity, smoky core and a strong animal and resinous side, suited to people who like dense, long-lasting fragrances. Burnana has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated very strong and its sillage strong, so it stays on the skin for hours and makes itself known in a room. It reads neither masculine nor feminine. Fruity notes such as apple and banana sit next to smoke, oud, oakmoss and civet. Sumatran benzoin and fossilised amber soften the sweetness, while castoreum and gaiac wood add a leathery, earthy edge. The overall impression is spicy, woody and dark.

Isla

7.4

Trudon · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Trudon Isla is a fresh, citrus-led unisex scent that leans towards warm weather and easygoing days. Half of the voters pick summer, and a good share choose spring. It suits leisure and daily wear best, and it can also work in an office. Longevity and sillage are moderate, and votes for feminine and masculine are close, so it doesn't read as clearly one or the other. The top opens with bergamot, grapefruit, cardamom and two kinds of petitgrain; in the heart, bergamot blossom, mint and rosemary pull that freshness towards green and spice. The base of musk, amber and two vetivers softens it and settles it onto a calm, woody footing.

Agrias Vetiveris

8.6

Nebiru Parfvms · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Nebiru Parfvms Agrias Vetiveris pairs vetiver with mandarin orange and grapefruit in a fresh, green, woody unisex scent; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it leans towards leisure and daily wear, with business use also getting votes. It reads easy and unisex rather than tied to either gender. The top opens with mandarin orange, grapefruit, cardamom and ginger, citrus with a light spice. In the heart, black tea and jasmine tea soften around orange blossom. The base settles into three vetivers, hinoki wood and oakmoss, earthy and woody. Nebiru Parfvms Agrias Vetiveris II and Tom Ford Grey Vetiver (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Pining Dew 2

6.3

Toskovat' · 2022

Fresh · Green · Fruity

Toskovat' Pining Dew 2 pairs black pepper, pink pepper, lavender and pineapple in a fresh, green and spicy unisex scent. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it lingers on the skin and carries a little without filling the room. It has been discontinued. It reads comfortably on both men and women. It opens with pepper and lavender up front, while pineapple adds a fruity brightness. Gin sits in the heart. The base of tonka bean, Java vetiver and cedar builds a woody footing, and the tear accord lends a synthetic edge. Fresh and green notes lead the accords.

Fundamental (2023)

8.2

Rubini · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Rubini Fundamental opens with fresh mandarin orange and bergamot, then moves into darker notes like lavender, labdanum and leather, and it suits both men and women. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Voters lean towards daily wear and leisure, though business and evening settings also get a share. It reads as neither strictly masculine nor feminine. The top is grape, mandarin orange and bergamot, fresh and fruity. In the heart, lavender and clary sage bring a green, floral touch, while orris butter adds powder and beeswax and labdanum add a sweet, spicy warmth. The base of Atlas cedar, sandalwood, leather and cocoa is woody, leathery and slightly animal. Rubini Fundamental (2015) and Karl Lagerfeld Jako have a close profile.

Elegant Vetiver

8.2

Hugo Boss · 2021

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Hugo Boss Elegant Vetiver is a men's fragrance that softens a fresh, green character with sweet, spicy and woody touches. Juniper berry and pistachio open it, giving a fresh, green start with a little sweetness behind it. The heart carries Java vetiver and Haitian vetiver, where the woody side comes forward. Cashmeran and labdanum settle underneath as a creamy, warm base. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters lean towards spring and fall, and it suits nights out and leisure time, with business wear close behind. Most voters read it as masculine. Il Profvmo Lysander and Ralph Lauren Ralph's Club (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Chi lo vuole, lo può riscoprire. E chi lo riscopre, lo deve scegliere. E come sempre, chi davvero lo sceglie avrà la sua pace la pace appunto del Natale. San Paolo VI

8.3

Filippo Sorcinelli · 2025

Citrus · Green · Sweet

SOD

8.1

Mallo · 2024

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Mallo SOD is a dense unisex scent that sets sweet, spicy, woody and earthy tones against smoky resins; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong, and nearly all voters rate its staying power high. Its heavy build suits cool weather and evenings, and it may feel too much for anyone who likes a light scent. It leans neither masculine nor feminine and wears as a unisex fragrance. As a whole, the scent rests on a dark woodiness built from soil, Indian oud and Java vetiver. Patchouli and cypriol dry it out and add spice, while benzoin and frankincense bring a resinous sweetness. Mitti attar pushes the earthy side forward, and civet adds depth.

Après Cologne

8.4

Angelos Créations Olfactives · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Angelos Créations Olfactives Après Cologne is a fresh, citrus-led unisex scent that suits spring and summer days; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are rated good, and most voters pick spring and summer. It leans towards daily wear, leisure and the office, and some also wear it for sport. It opens on lemon, pink grapefruit, bergamot and blood orange. In the heart, petitgrain, Moroccan neroli and orris butter add a soft floral and green touch. The base of musk, Java vetiver and Australian sandalwood dries it down on a woody footing. Floris Cefiro and Chanel Eau de Cologne have a close profile.

303 Piment Baie Rose Benjoin

7.8

Bon Parfumeur · 2019

Floral · Green · Sweet

Bon Parfumeur 303 Piment Baie Rose Benjoin is a spicy, resinous unisex scent that most voters place in fall and winter, for evenings and nights out; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters read it as masculine, though a fair number call it feminine. It leans towards evening and night-out wear, and some choose it for leisure time. The top is pink pepper, red chili and cardamom, which give the heat. In the heart, ylang-ylang, patchouli and tolu balm add a floral, sweet softness. The base settles on benzoin and two vetivers, earthy, woody and resinous.

Beau de Provence

7.3

Fragonard · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Fragonard Beau de Provence is a fresh, citrusy unisex fragrance that leans towards spring and summer days, settling into a green, woody base. It opens bright and fruity with bergamot, Italian grapefruit and fig tree. At the heart, ylang-ylang adds a soft floral touch while mint and basil bring a green, lightly spicy edge. The base is built on Atlas cedar, Java vetiver and sandalwood, with Indonesian patchouli adding a faint earthy warmth. Most voters pick summer and spring, and daily wear, leisure and business are the most chosen settings. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Votes on character are split closely between feminine and masculine, so it sits comfortably on anyone. Burberry for Men (Eau de Toilette) and Profumum Roma Orangea have a close profile.

Vetiver Gris

7.5

Jacques Fath · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris is a fresh unisex scent that brightens the earthy, woody side of vetiver with citrus and green notes. It opens with bitter orange and mandarin orange for a bright citrus edge, while hazelnut adds a soft, gourmand sweetness. In the heart, galbanum brings greenness alongside neroli and Madagascan geranium for a floral freshness. The base rests on Java and Haitian vetiver with orris concrete, settling into a woody, earthy ground. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most pick spring and fall, with summer close behind. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, then the office, with fewer votes for evening and nights out. Zarkoperfume Molécule No. 8 - Wooden Chips and Frapin Isle of Man have a close profile.

Whisky Oud

7.1

Farmacia SS. Annunziata · 2018

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Farmacia SS. Annunziata Whisky Oud is a smoky, leathery and spicy unisex scent built around frankincense, whisky, oud and suede. Voters rate both its longevity and its sillage as good. It is recommended most for evenings and nights out, and it also works for leisure time. It suits men and women alike and has a serious, dark character. The top opens with resinous frankincense and labdanum. At the heart, suede, whisky and saffron add a leathery, spiced warmth. The base settles on oud, cedarwood, amber, musk and Java vetiver, woody and animalic. Its profile is close to Pal Zileri Collezione Privata - Essenza di Aoud and Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Desert Oud.

Awake & Dreaming

8.0

Scopoli

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Scopoli Awake & Dreaming is a fresh, woody unisex scent in which citrus and green notes lead. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Voters split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. It opens with basil, green mandarin orange, lime, Sicilian bergamot and blood orange, a bright citrus start. The heart brings marine notes, pine resin, mimosa and fern, green and resinous. The base settles on cedarwood, musk, Canadian fir balsam and Java vetiver, a woody footing.

Téméraire

6.8

Givenchy · 2023

Floral · Green · Sweet

Givenchy Téméraire is a unisex scent that pairs a floral, green core with spicy, resinous and smoky shades. The top opens with Guatemala cardamom and Indonesian clove leaf, which give it a spicy start. The heart of Moroccan iris concrete and Indian tuberose absolute brings a powdery, creamy floral note. In the base, Siam benzoin adds sweetness and resin, while Atlas cedar, Woodleather® and Java vetiver form a woody, smoky foundation. Longevity and sillage are both rated good, though from a small number of votes. It sits comfortably between masculine and feminine. Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue and Tom Ford Santal Blush have a close profile.

Clubs of Iris

6.5

Régalien · 2019

Floral · Fruity · Synthetic

Régalien Clubs of Iris is a floral, woody unisex scent built around iris and Turkish rose, with carnation and aniseed alongside; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are rated good, though few people have voted, so those ratings are tentative. There are no season or occasion votes; being unisex, it can be worn by anyone. It opens with grapefruit, raspberry and bergamot for a bright, fruity freshness, with violet leaf pulling it towards green. The heart is a powdery floral of iris and Turkish rose, with carnation and aniseed adding spice. The base of Nootka cypress, Java vetiver and patchouli is woody and earthy, softened by musk and amber. Smoky and resinous touches show up in the accords too.

Rossa Bohème

6.5

Onyrico · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Onyrico Rossa Bohème is a unisex fragrance that sets the freshness of pink pepper, coriander and lemon against the spicy warmth of cinnamon, black pepper and tobacco. It opens with pink pepper, coriander, angelica and lemon, giving a fresh, citrusy and slightly green start. Cinnamon, black pepper and tobacco add a spicy, smoky warmth at the heart. Cedarwood, Java vetiver, patchouli, musk and amber settle into a woody, resinous and faintly powdery base. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters lean towards fall and spring, followed by winter, and place it in leisure, business and evening wear. Being unisex, it reads comfortably on men and women alike. Amouage Opus II and Etro Shaal Nur have a close profile.

Sulawesi

7.6

Nissaba · 2022

Green · Spicy · Woody

Nissaba Sulawesi is a unisex scent with a green, spicy and woody character, leaning resinous and earthy. Indonesian clove and Indonesian nutmeg give the spice, while Virginia cedar and Texas cedar build a woody frame. Java vetiver and Indonesian patchouli deepen the green, earthy side, and Sumatran benzoin absolute adds a soft, resinous, oriental warmth. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind; it suits leisure and daily wear best, and gets votes for evening and office too. It leans slightly masculine but reads as unisex. Légendes du Cèdre and Log Cabin have a close profile.

Northern Flicker

7.5

January Scent Project · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Green

January Scent Project Northern Flicker is a green, woody unisex scent built on pine and mint, suited to anyone who wants a cool, forest-like air. Ponderosa pine, fir needle and French pine absolute form the backbone, while American spearmint and peppermint keep it bright. Bergamot adds a citrus touch, and tobacco absolute, labdanum and vetiver pull the scent towards something resinous and earthy. The overall impression is fresh, green and spicy. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good, and most longevity votes fall on the high side. The number of votes is small, so these ratings are a guide rather than a verdict. It reads as unisex and has been discontinued.