The Perfume Library

Empyreal

7.5

Navitus Parfums · 2021

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Navitus Parfums Empyreal is a unisex scent that leans towards evenings and nights out, pairing a fruity, gourmand sweetness with a smoky, woody base. It opens with plum and orange for a fruity start. In the heart, cocoa, suede, Venezuelan tonka bean and pastry push it towards a gourmand sweetness. The base of gaiac wood, birch tar and Java vetiver settles into something smoky, leathery and woody, while spicy and powdery touches keep the sweetness in check. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick it for leisure and evening wear, with nights out close behind. It reads as unisex, and Maison Margiela Jazz Club and MCM MCM Diamond have a close profile.

Incense Crush

7.1

d'Orsay · 2024

Spicy · Woody · Resinous

d'Orsay Incense Crush is a spicy, smoky, resinous unisex scent that leans towards evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick evening, followed by leisure and nights out, while office and daily wear trail behind. It reads neither clearly masculine nor feminine. It opens with cardamom and clove, then softens into leather and creamy notes at the heart. The base of frankincense, Java vetiver, oak wood and cedarwood gives it a woody, earthy, smoky foundation.

Vétiver

7.2

Molinard · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Molinard Vétiver is a fresh, green vetiver scent that sets bright citrus against an earthy, smoky base, and it reads as unisex. Longevity and sillage are moderate, so it stays close rather than leaving a heavy trail. Most voters point to leisure, daytime and office wear, while evening and night-out use sit further back. It doesn't read clearly masculine or feminine. Pink pepper, grapefruit and blood orange give a bright, slightly spicy opening. In the heart, lavender, violet and amber add a soft, powdery touch. The base is led by Java and Haitian vetiver, with moss and tobacco adding a woody, smoky depth. Heeley Vetiver Veritas and Perris Monte Carlo Vetiver Java have a close profile.

Dark Heart of Papua

8.7

N•O•A•M · 2024

Floral · Green · Spicy

N•O•A•M Dark Heart of Papua is a smoky, animalic and resinous unisex scent built around Papua oud, New Guinean patchouli and castoreum, and it has been discontinued. The notes have no top, heart and base split, so it reads as one piece: Papua oud and smoked wood form a dark woody core, while Java vetiver and oakmoss add an earthy, green edge. Indian tuberose, jasmine sambac and red champaca carry the floral side, and castoreum and hyraceum give it a leathery, animal depth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind, and favor leisure, night out and evening wear. Masculine and feminine votes are close, so it sits between the two. Prin Rahassanai and TSVGA Fiona have a close profile.

Oilily

6.8

Oilily · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Oilily Oilily pairs Sicilian mandarin orange and Spanish lime with jasmine and lily of the valley, making a fresh, floral women's fragrance. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it leans towards daily wear, leisure and the office. It reads feminine and modern. Citrus comes first, with mandarin and lime giving a lively opening. The heart is a green, slightly sweet floral bouquet of fruits, cyclamen, jasmine and lily of the valley. In the base, Java vetiver, sandalwood and oakmoss settle it onto a woody, earthy footing.

FullChoke (Eau de Toilette)

7.1

Francesco Smalto · 2004

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Toilette

Francesco Smalto FullChoke Eau de Toilette is a masculine scent that opens floral and fruity and settles into sweet, woody warmth, suiting autumn and spring days and casual wear; it has been discontinued. The top holds Vietnamese white pepper, Sri Lankan cardamom and pineapple, with gun powder and honeydew melon adding a spicy, fruity edge. In the heart, jasmine, rose and lily of the valley bring a soft, powdery floral note. The base leans on leather, vanilla, Java vetiver and Jamaican rum, leaving a sweet, smoky, earthy oriental trail. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick autumn and spring, while winter and summer trail behind. Leisure and daily wear lead the occasions, with business and evening getting fewer votes. Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars and Laura Biagiotti Roma have a close profile.

Cafe Diem

7.3

PK Perfumes · 2012

Floral · Green · Sweet

PK Perfumes Cafe Diem is a gourmand, spicy unisex scent built around arabica coffee, vanilla and whisky. Coffee and vanilla set a sweet, smoky base, while cinnamon, cardamom and clove add a spicy warmth. Jasmine, rose and mimosa absolute bring the floral side, and cedar and vetiver the woody, earthy one. Amber and frankincense give it a resinous depth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, though the number of votes is small, so treat this as a rough guide. It sits comfortably on both men and women.

Miss Betty Vair

7.0

Santi Burgas · 2015

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Santi Burgas Miss Betty Vair is a fresh, woody unisex scent built around oakmoss, jasmine and Java vetiver. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Voters lean towards autumn, spring and summer, and name leisure, daily wear and the office most often. Most voters read it as feminine, though a fair share find it masculine. The notes read as one whole: Spanish lemon and eucalyptus bring freshness, nutmeg adds spice and jasmine a floral touch. Oakmoss, Java vetiver and Indonesian patchouli set an earthy, woody base, which white musk softens into something powdery and slightly sweet.

Bonne Chauffe

7.9

Frapin · 2023

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Frapin Bonne Chauffe is a unisex fragrance suited to evenings and nights out, with a sweet, spicy character set against a woody, smoky base. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters point to evening and night-out wear, while leisure and daily use come well behind. It sits comfortably on both men and women. It opens with davana and Madagascar pepper, a spicy, slightly fruity start. In the heart, plum, bran absolute and oak wood take over, and the sweetness that begins here carries through the whole scent. In the base, Siam benzoin adds resinous warmth, while Virginia cedar, Java vetiver and patchouli leave an earthy, smoky woodiness as it dries.

Rizz

8.0

Bujairami

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Bujairami Rizz is a men's fragrance that pairs the fresh, green side of citrus with a spicy heart. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, though the number of votes is small, so these ratings should be taken lightly. There are no season or occasion votes to draw on. It opens with mandarin orange, Sicilian orange and Calabrian bergamot in a bright citrus burst. The heart is led by cardamom, neroli, pepper and nutmeg, with pink pepper adding a touch of sweetness to the spice. Java vetiver leaves an earthy base underneath. Sweet and synthetic facets give the fresh composition a modern feel. Its profile is close to Bujairami Astro and The Dua Brand #TheMeteore.

Santal Mistral

7.2

Houbigant · 2026

Sweet · Synthetic · Spicy

Houbigant Santal Mistral is a sweet, woody unisex scent, a creamy sandalwood spiced with powdery and smoky touches. It opens on immortelle, then moves into cedarwood, patchouli and labdanum, which give it an earthy, resinous depth. The base of amber, sandalwood, Java vetiver and vanilla sweetens it and dries down warm, powdery and creamy. Voters find its longevity good and its sillage moderate. Most pick autumn and spring, with winter next, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. Most voters read it as masculine, though a fair number call it feminine. Godet Corps & Âmes and Parfums Vintage Sandal Amber have a close profile.

Īśvara

7.3

Anima Mundi · 2018

Citrus · Floral · Sweet

Anima Mundi Īśvara opens on lime, saffron and Sri Lankan nutmeg and settles onto Java vetiver and benzoin, a unisex scent that ties citrus and spice to a woody, resinous base. Longevity and sillage are rated good, and most voters pick fall and winter. Night outs and evenings lead, though it also works for leisure time. It reads somewhat masculine, yet a fair share of voters call it feminine. The top pairs lime and bergamot freshness with saffron and nutmeg spice. In the heart, Chinese and Egyptian geranium add a soft floral note, rounded by cashmere. The base of vetiver, patchouli and amber turns earthy, smoky and sweet. Armani Privé Rose d'Arabie and Moresque White Duke have a close profile.

Ingenium / Enygma

6.7

Onyrico · 2015

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Onyrico Ingenium / Enygma is a spicy, woody unisex scent that suits fall and winter days best. It opens with Ceylonese cinnamon, bergamot and pimento, a spicy start. In the heart, incense and Damask rose come forward, while tobacco and gardenia add a soft floral touch. The base builds an earthy, woody and slightly smoky ground from cedar and vetiver, with amber sweetening it. Voters find its longevity good and its sillage moderate, though the number of votes is small. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards leisure time and evenings. It has a profile close to Armani Privé Rose d'Arabie and Tom Ford Ombré Leather.

Vetiver Blanc

7.3

Sultan Pasha Attars

Fresh · Floral · Green

Sultan Pasha Attars Vetiver Blanc is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, green character on a floral, woody and resinous base. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good, and most voters score the longevity high. The number of votes is small, so this is only a tendency. It opens with Indian tuberose absolute, gardenia absolute and galbanum, so the flowers come with a green edge. In the heart, Grasse tuberose, Bourbon vetiver, gaiac wood and white ambergris take over. The base of Mysore sandalwood, musk and Java vetiver settles it into a soft, woody finish. Ineke Hothouse Flower and Bvlgari Le Gemme - Lilaia have a close profile.

Harmonie Pastorale

8.2

Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero Harmonie Pastorale is a green, earthy men's fragrance that opens with lavender, mandarin orange and mastic. The top notes of lavender and mandarin orange give a fresh, citrusy start, while mastic adds a resinous edge. In the heart, thyme, peppermint, clary sage and jasmine build a herbal, fougère-like feel. The base of Java vetiver, patchouli and teakwood leaves a woody, earthy foundation. Voters find its longevity and sillage good and rate its value for money highly. It reads as masculine. Clive Christian 1872 Bergamot and Gravel American Dream share a close profile.

Spade of Vetiver

6.1

Régalien · 2019

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

Régalien Spade of Vetiver is a fresh, aquatic and green unisex scent built around seawater, grapefruit and vetiver, and it has been discontinued. It opens with seawater and an air accord alongside grapefruit, while cardamom and earthy notes add a dry edge to that freshness. In the heart, clary sage, cypress and salt give it a green, mineral turn. Haitian and Java vetiver settle into the base with frankincense, patchouli and opoponax, leaving a woody, earthy finish. Voters find its longevity and sillage good, though the number of votes is small, so this is only a rough guide. Its fresh, aquatic character wears easily through the day and suits men and women alike. It shares a close profile with Rochas Aquaman and Jimmy Choo Jimmy Choo Man Aqua.

Pays Dogon

8.0

Monsillage · 2017

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Monsillage Pays Dogon is a unisex scent that sets the sharpness of black pepper, pink pepper and ginger against an earthy, smoky base of cypriol, gaiac wood and patchouli. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin yet lasts through the day. Voters lean towards spring and fall, with leisure and evening wear coming first. It reads more masculine than feminine, though a fair share of voters see it as feminine. It opens with peppery spice, ginger and green notes for a fresh, crisp edge, and hibiscus softens the heart. In the dry-down, cypriol, gaiac wood, sandalwood, Java vetiver and patchouli form a woody, resinous, smoky base, with date adding a slight fruity sweetness. Roberto Capucci Blu Water (Eau de Parfum) and Kerosene Wood Haven have a close profile.

Sikada SQ

8.4

Nebiru Parfvms · 2024

Citrus · Floral · Spicy

Nebiru Parfvms Sikada SQ is a unisex scent that opens with citrus and settles into a floral, spicy and woody structure, with animal and powdery shades alongside. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, though the number of votes is small, so those ratings are tentative. It has no clear gender lean and can sit comfortably on either a man or a woman. In the top, mandarin orange, blood orange and grapefruit give a bright citrus start, while cinnamon and ginger add a spicy warmth. The heart is led by jasmine sambac, iris and rose. In the base, sandalwood, musk and vanilla form a creamy, resinous footing, and castoreum and civet add an animal depth.

Purple Papua

8.2

Duftkumpels

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Duftkumpels Purple Papua is a woody, smoky unisex fragrance built on Papua oud, Indian tuberose and Java vetiver. The notes read as one whole rather than a top, heart and base. Oud from Papua, India, Indonesia and Cambodia forms a smoky, resinous, earthy core. Tuberose and pink lotus add a sweet softness to it, violet leaf brings a green edge, and Cretan labdanum and Mysore sandalwood deepen the warmth. Voters rate its longevity as strong and its sillage as good. The heavy oud character suits those who like dense, smoky scents, and as a unisex fragrance it sits between masculine and feminine. Tolteca Ollin and Fir of the Dark have a close profile.

Bohemian

6.8

SweDoft · 2020

Fruity · Synthetic · Spicy

SweDoft Bohemian is a smoky, woody men's fragrance that suits autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, while summer is rarely chosen. Leisure, nights out and evenings draw nearly equal votes, and business use stays in the background. Most voters read it as masculine, with a classic feel. Sandalwood, leather and oud lead, while frankincense and smoky notes add a resinous darkness. Patchouli and Java vetiver form an earthy base, and nutmeg and white pepper bring spice. Dried fruits sweeten the woody, leathery structure slightly. Heeley Phoenician Leather / Phoenicia and Ted Lapidus Oud Noir have a close profile.

Pothos / Πόθος

8.7

Angelos Créations Olfactives · 2026

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Angelos Créations Olfactives Pothos / Πόθος is a unisex scent led by neroli, jasmine sambac and linden blossom, settling onto a woody, powdery base. Voters find both its longevity and sillage good, with longevity rated slightly higher than sillage. The sample is small, so this is only a general impression. It is unisex and doesn't lean toward either gender. Chloé Capucine and Divine L'Esprit Libre have a close profile. The top opens bright, fresh and citrusy with neroli, orange and jasmine. In the heart, orris butter, lily of the valley and honeysuckle add a floral, powdery softness, while fennel brings a green, spicy edge. The base of Mysore sandalwood, vetiver and vanilla dries down woody, slightly sweet and faintly animalic.

Atlas

8.1

Tumi · 2022

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Tumi Atlas is a fresh men's fragrance that sets cardamom, grapefruit and bergamot against a woody base of vetiver and sandalwood. It opens with cardamom, Florida grapefruit and Italian bergamot, a citrusy, spicy brightness. In the heart, ginger, geranium and labdanum soften things a little. The base rests on moss, two kinds of vetiver and Indian sandalwood, a woody floor that the aquatic and sweet touches keep light. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall, with winter the least chosen. Daily wear, leisure and business come up most often as occasions. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Dior Sauvage (Eau de Toilette) and Hugo Boss Hugo Dark Blue (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

Elephant & Roses

6.9

Maria Candida Gentile · 2015

Fresh · Floral · Green

Maria Candida Gentile Elephant & Roses is a unisex scent that sets rose, jasmine and osmanthus against the green, slightly bitter edge of thyme and costus. It opens with osmanthus, thyme and costus, fresh and green. The heart brings ambergris, rose and jasmine for a floral softness, then Java vetiver, sandalwood and animalic notes settle it onto an earthy, woody, powdery base. Sweet, fruity and spicy touches stay behind the chypre character. Longevity and sillage are moderate, though the vote count is small, so treat these as tentative. Being unisex, it reads comfortably on both men and women. Elizabeth Taylor Diamonds and Sapphires (Eau de Toilette) and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Rose Opulente have a close profile.

Ambrecuir

7.8

Sultan Pasha Attars · 2015

Floral · Sweet · Spicy