The Perfume Library

Youth-Dew (Eau de Parfum)

7.7

Estēe Lauder

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Estēe Lauder Youth-Dew Eau de Parfum opens with lavender, jonquil and rose and dries down to vetiver, patchouli and moss, a floral and spicy oriental. The top holds lavender, jonquil and rose, while spices, jasmine and lily of the valley sit in the heart. The base is vetiver, patchouli and moss. The accords point to a sweet, woody, powdery and resinous scent, with animal, earthy and smoky shades adding weight. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Most voters call it feminine or classic. Estēe Lauder Cinnabar (1978) (Eau de Parfum) and Yves Saint Laurent Opium (Secret de Parfum) have a close profile.

Dzing!

7.3

L'Artisan Parfumeur · 1999

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! is a unisex scent that suits fall and winter, its sweet, spicy side balanced by leather and wood; it has been discontinued. It opens with leather, ginger and saffron, then jonquil, iris and caramel sweeten the heart and add a powdery softness. In the base, Tonkin musk, castoreum, costus and cedar build an animal, earthy, woody foundation. The overall impression is gourmand and oriental. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with leisure and evening wear leading the occasions. Masculine and feminine votes are almost level, so it sits comfortably on either. L'Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore and Memo Paris African Leather have a close profile.

Dryad

8.0

Papillon Artisan Perfumes · 2017

Citrus · Floral · Green

Papillon Artisan Perfumes Dryad is a green, chypre-leaning unisex scent built around oakmoss, jonquil and galbanum, and it suits fall and spring best. Oakmoss and galbanum give it a green, earthy, woody backbone. Jonquil and narcissus add a floral side, while bergamot and citron bring citrus freshness and apricot softens the edges. Benzoin adds resinous warmth, and costus and vetiver lend a spicy, animal depth. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most pick fall and spring, and leisure and evening wear lead the occasions. Votes for masculine and feminine are almost level, so it doesn't lean toward one gender. Der Duft Pride and American Perfumer Chypre Noir have a close profile.

Montaigne (2007) (Eau de Parfum)

7.8

Caron · 2007

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Caron Montaigne is a floral, sweet women's fragrance that suits autumn and winter evenings best; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Most see it as feminine and classic. Jasmine, jonquil and mimosa build a floral frame. Bitter orange and coriander add a fruity, spicy touch, while vanilla and amber soften it into sweetness. Mysore sandalwood gives a woody base, and the powdery, chypre feel of the accords keeps it on a classic line. Caron Montaigne (1986) (Parfum) and Caron Parfum Sacré (Eau de Parfum Intense) have a close profile.

Carat (Eau de Parfum)

7.3

Cartier · 2018

Fresh · Floral · Aquatic

Eau de Parfum

Cartier Carat Eau de Parfum is a fresh, floral women's scent that leans towards spring and summer days; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close without crowding the room. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, leisure and business are the most chosen settings. Half the voters call it feminine, with the rest finding it modern or classic. The notes read as one floral bouquet: ylang-ylang, jonquil, iris, honeysuckle, violet, hyacinth and tulip. Fresh, aquatic and green accords lead, softened by sweet, powdery and creamy touches. Guerlain L'Heure Blanche and Tiffany & Co. Sheer have a close profile.

California Snow

7.4

What We Do Is Secret · 2017

Fresh · Floral · Green

What We Do Is Secret California Snow is a fresh, green and floral unisex scent, and it has been discontinued. It opens with sweetgrass, black sage, chamomile and tea, giving a cool, grassy first impression. The heart brings jonquil, cannabis, hay and rosebud, where the floral side softens. The base of vetiver, cedar, soil and musk dries down powdery and earthy. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Votes for feminine and masculine sit close together, so it reads as in between. L'Aventura Tumble in the Grass and Gucci Mémoire d'une Odeur have a close profile.

Tonkin Musk

8.6

Ensar Oud · 2021

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

1984

8.3

Ensar Oud · 2022

Floral · Green · Spicy

Ensar Oud 1984 is a unisex fragrance that most voters wear in fall and spring, mainly for evenings and leisure time. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters read it as masculine, while the rest split between classic and modern. It suits winter and summer too, though fall leads. Oud dominates the notes: Papua oud and Borneo oud join Mysore sandalwood and Mongolian musk. Oakmoss and massoia bark pull it toward earthy, resinous ground, while jasmine sambac, jonquil and tuberose absolute add a floral softness. Yuzu and bergamot lend a light freshness. The accords run green, spicy, smoky and leathery.

Jasper no Kodō II

8.9

Folkwinds · 2025

Floral · Green · Fruity

Folkwinds Jasper no Kodō II is a unisex fragrance with a floral, green and resinous character, deepened by woody and earthy tones; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated very strong and its sillage strong. Voters lean slightly towards spring and fall, though the votes spread across the whole year. It sits closest to leisure and evening wear, and while most voters read it as masculine, a fair number find it feminine. Copal resin, Omani green frankincense absolute and juniper berry build a resinous, fresh core. Pine needle absolute and balsam fir add a forest green note, while jonquil and gardenia carry the floral side. Blackberry sweetens it a little, and Papua, Indonesian and Thai oud, Mysore sandalwood and moss form the woody, earthy base.

Oud Yusuf (2024) (Pure Parfum)

7.7

Ensar Oud · 2024

Floral · Fruity · Spicy

Ensar Oud Oud Yusuf is a unisex oriental built on oud resin and spice, with floral and fruity touches; it has been discontinued. The scent reads as a single whole rather than a top-heart-base sequence. Bhutanese, Thai and Cambodian oud with oud resin lay a woody, resinous and animalic ground. Spices, mandarin orange and blood orange brighten it, apricot and honeydew melon add a fruity sweetness, and orange blossom and May rose bring a soft floral side. Voters rate both its longevity and its sillage as strong. It suits those who want a dense, noticeable fragrance that leaves a clear trail. Ensar Oud Oud Yusuf: Kyara and Tola Gulbadan have a close profile.

Sleepy Hollow

8.6

Folkwinds · 2024

Green · Fruity · Sweet

Folkwinds Sleepy Hollow opens with apple brandy, spices and patchouli and deepens into oakmoss and oud, a green, spicy unisex scent that has been discontinued. The opening holds apple brandy, spices, night-blooming jasmine and patchouli. In the heart, musk wool, oakmoss, leaves and balsam fir come forward. The base settles into oud, styrax, beeswax and hay. Green, fruity, sweet and resinous accords meet in an earthy chypre character. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out leading the occasions. More voters read it as masculine, though some call it feminine. Serge Lutens Chypre rouge and Molinard Chypre d'Orient have a close profile.

Mackie (Eau de Toilette)

7.4

Bob Mackie · 1991

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Toilette

Bob Mackie Mackie Eau de Toilette is a feminine scent that moves from a fruity opening into a dense floral heart and a sweet, powdery, oriental base. It opens with pineapple, peach and raspberry, a sweet fruit start. In the heart, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine and tuberose lead, with orange blossom and lily of the valley rounding out the bouquet. The base of vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, musk and amber ties it together with a spicy, powdery warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind, and it is chosen most for evenings, leisure and nights out. Most see it as feminine and classic. Revlon Charlie Red and Montblanc Femme de Montblanc have a close profile.

Central Park South

7.0

Bond No. 9 · 2013

Fresh · Floral · Green

Bond No. 9 Central Park South is a floral, green women's perfume that opens with blackcurrant bud, clementine and violet leaf. It starts fresh, green and lightly fruity, with blackcurrant bud, clementine, violet leaf and grapefruit blossom. At the heart, acacia, jasmine, tuberose and orris root carry the floral side into a soft, powdery texture. The base of cedarwood, benzoin, musk and sandalwood settles into a woody, slightly sweet finish. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters suggest spring and summer, with evening, night out and leisure the leading occasions. It reads mostly feminine. Kate Moss Kate and Essential Garden Tulip Dreams have a close profile.

Pnoi / Πνοή

8.7

Angelos Créations Olfactives · 2024

Floral · Green · Spicy

Angelos Créations Olfactives Pnoi / Πνοή is a unisex perfume with a floral, green and spicy character, deepened by animalic and leathery touches; it has been discontinued. Both longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and fall; daily and leisure wear lead, with evening and office use also mentioned. It reads classic, balanced between masculine and feminine. It opens with Calabrian bergamot, violet leaf absolute and green notes for a fresh, leafy start. The heart of Damask rose, mimosa, hay and star anise is floral and spicy with a powdery softness. The base of honey, beeswax, sandalwood, musk and castoreum dries down woody, resinous and leathery.

L-O-V-E

8.8

Annette Neuffer · 2022

Citrus · Floral · Green

Annette Neuffer L-O-V-E sets a green, citrusy opening of galbanum and clementine over white flowers and a warm honeyed sweetness, and it is described as a women's fragrance. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick spring and fall, with winter close behind. It suits nights out, evenings and leisure time, and most voters find it feminine. Galbanum, angelica and bergamot give a fresh green start. At the heart, jonquil, Egyptian jasmine, tuberose and orange blossom form a floral garden feel. In the base, honey, vanilla and sandalwood sweeten it into a creamy, slightly resinous warmth. The floral and gourmand sides stay in balance. Annette Neuffer Narcissus Poeticus and Carner El Born have a close profile.

Vaporocindro

7.2

January Scent Project · 2017

Floral · Green · Spicy

January Scent Project Vaporocindro is a unisex scent built around jonquil, sandalwood and green leaves, deepened by spice and earthy tones. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick spring and fall, though it also works in summer and winter. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, with some votes for the office and evenings. It reads neither clearly masculine nor feminine: votes split almost evenly between the two. The floral and green side comes from jonquil, lilac and green leaves, with apple and blackcurrant adding a light fruitiness. Cumin, turmeric and black pepper bring spice, while coffee darkens the mix towards something dry and earthy. Sandalwood, cedar, mahogany and oud form a woody, slightly smoky base, softened by ambergris.

Chypre Narcotique (Pure Parfum)

8.4

Ensar Oud

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Ensar Oud Chypre Narcotique (Pure Parfum) pairs tuberose and jasmine with Papua oud and Bourbon vetiver in a fresh-opening chypre; it is unisex and has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. With no season or occasion votes, little can be said about when it suits best, but its woody, animal and floral build gives it a heavy, full character. It opens with bergamot, yuzu, lily of the valley and pink pepper, so a citrus and green freshness comes first. In the heart, tuberose, jonquil, jasmine and rosemary form a floral body. The base of Papua oud, Bourbon vetiver, Tibetan musk and castoreum adds a woody, animal depth. Ensar Oud Aleesa's Garden and Rasasi Safina have a close profile.

Chypre Sultan (Pure Parfum)

8.2

Ensar Oud · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Velvet Pure

6.9

Dolce & Gabbana · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Green

Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Pure is a fresh, green floral for women, and it has been discontinued. Narcissus absolute, jonquil and jasmine form the floral core, while galbanum and fig leaf add a green crispness. Neroli and geranium lighten it, and cistus, orris butter and vetiver leave a faint spicy, earthy edge underneath. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick summer and spring, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Nearly half of voters read it as feminine. Siam 1928 Assan and Parfums Privés Aila have a close profile.

Narkissos / Νάρκισσος

8.4

Angelos Créations Olfactives · 2025

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Angelos Créations Olfactives Narkissos / Νάρκισσος is a unisex scent that pairs narcissus with honey and vanilla in a sweet, powdery floral accord. The top holds salted butter, chamomile and narcissus, with deer musk adding an animal warmth. In the heart, honey, jonquil and jasmine sambac come forward, while narcissus absolute carries the floral line on. The base leans on vanilla, tobacco and leather; fir balsam and patchouli dry the sweetness a little, and the accord stays creamy, spicy and leathery. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, though both ratings rest on a small number of votes. It suits men and women alike, a dense, warm scent. Byredo Animalique and bdk Parfums Vanille Leather have a close profile.

Vernus

7.0

Jorum Studio · 2025

Citrus · Floral · Green

Jorum Studio Vernus is a unisex scent that sets citrus and floral accords against a green, earthy and faintly smoky background. Its longevity and sillage are both moderate. Voters wear it mostly in fall and spring, then summer, with winter the least chosen. It is picked mainly for leisure and daily wear, and it also finds a place on evenings and nights out. Jasmine absolute, magnolia, narcissus and jonquil form the floral frame. Petitgrain sur Fleurs and bell pepper add a green, slightly bitter edge, while hay and hickory carry the earthy and smoky side. Sweet and spicy accords stay in the background.

Montaigne (2017) (Eau de Parfum)

8.0

Caron · 2017

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Caron Montaigne pairs orange blossom and jasmine with the warmth of vanilla, Mysore sandalwood and benzoin, a sweet feminine scent from 2017 that has since been discontinued. It opens on orange blossom and jasmine, and the heart of mimosa and jonquil carries the floral line forward with a soft, powdery feel. In the base, vanilla, Mysore sandalwood and benzoin take over, and the scent turns gourmand, spicy and oriental as it sweetens. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Voters pick it most often for leisure, followed by nights out and evenings. It reads as feminine, and its sweet, powdery build sits more easily in cooler weather. Caron Montaigne (2007) and Coty Vanilla Fields share a close profile.

Always Greener

7.2

Lost Tribe · 2023

Floral · Green · Spicy

Lost Tribe Always Greener is a unisex scent that moves from a floral, green opening to a smoky, earthy and woody finish; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage both rate as good, though the low number of votes means these ratings are tentative. There are no season or occasion votes to draw on. As a unisex scent, it reads comfortably on both men and women. It opens with vetiver, star anise and rose otto, while petitgrain brings out the green side. In the heart, cedar, callitris and thyme build a woody, spicy frame. The base adds depth through several kinds of oud, patchouli and tree moss, softened by sandalwood and musk. Ensar Oud Black Gris and Agar Aura Malayaku share a close profile.

Vintage Affair

8.1

Jinkoh Store · 2024

Fresh · Floral · Green

Jinkoh Store Vintage Affair is a unisex perfume that opens fresh and green, then turns into a dense floral, woody chypre; it has been discontinued. Grapefruit, lime and bergamot give a bright start, with jasmine already bringing a floral note. The heart is crowded with flowers, with rose, narcissus, magnolia, tuberose and gardenia leading. In the base, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli and oakmoss set a woody, earthy, smoky floor. Longevity and sillage are rated strong, though only a few people have voted. It suits anyone, man or woman, who wants a mature, classic chypre structure. The perfumer is Marius Pană.