The Perfume Library

No. 08: Labdanum + Oak

7.4

Raer Scents · 2022

Green · Spicy · Woody

Raer Scents No. 08: Labdanum + Oak is a woody, resinous unisex scent built around labdanum absolute and English oak. Cardamom, black pepper and carrot seed give it a dry, spicy edge, while maté absolute and vetiver add a green, faintly smoky line. Elemi resin and labdanum bring a leathery warmth, and osmanthus absolute softens the sharper corners. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters pick it most for leisure, then for evenings and nights out, and less often for work or daily wear. It leans neither masculine nor feminine. Wally Incenso Nobile and Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste have a close profile.

Par Amour pour Lui

8.0

Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero · 2019

Floral · Green · Sweet

Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero Par Amour pour Lui is a green, smoky and leathery fougère for men, woody and spicy with a sweet edge. It opens fresh and herbal with French tarragon, Provençal lavender, bergamot and coriander. In the heart, tobacco absolute, hay absolute and leather lead, while patchouli and styrax add smoke and resin. The base of Haitian vetiver, labdanum absolute and tonka bean absolute sweetens it, and sandalwood and white musk soften the finish. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring and winter; summer is rarely chosen. It suits the office, evenings and daily wear.

Elegy

6.9

Jorum Studio · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Jorum Studio Elegy is a fresh, green chypre built around erika, hay and jasmine absolutes, a unisex scent that suits spring and summer days best. Bergamot and petitgrain bring a citrus freshness, while lavender and Bourbon geranium push it towards green and lightly spicy ground. Jasmine, orange blossom, honeysuckle and rose add a floral layer, and oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli give it its chypre frame. Ambrette seed and musk keep the whole thing soft and powdery. Most voters pick spring and summer, with winter the least chosen season. Daily wear and the office lead the occasions. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine, so it sits comfortably on either. Eau de Patou and Odalisque have a close profile.

Armani Privé - Jawhara Oriental

8.1

Giorgio Armani · 2021

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Giorgio Armani Armani Privé - Jawhara Oriental is a sweet, spicy and resinous unisex scent that suits nights out and evenings; it has been discontinued. It opens with spices, myrrh and iris. In the heart, opoponax, labdanum absolute and ambroxan build a resinous, slightly powdery warmth. In the base, cedarwood, amberwood, gaiac wood and vanilla set the sweetness on a woody, smoky footing, with animal and leathery touches staying in the background. Most voters pick night and evening, with leisure wear also common. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. It suits anyone who wants a dense, full-bodied oriental, whatever their gender.

Grâce D'Orient

8.2

Angelos Créations Olfactives · 2020

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Soma

7.9

Noème · 2022

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Ambre Blanc

7.3

Maison Rebatchi · 2022

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Maison Rebatchi Ambre Blanc is a unisex scent that sets the soft, resinous warmth of labdanum, amber and vanilla against the light freshness of bergamot. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate, so it leaves a close trail without filling the room. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring and winter, and leisure, daily wear and the office are the occasions named most often. Feminine and masculine votes sit close together, so it doesn't lean clearly either way. It opens fresh with bergamot and hedione. The heart is a sweet, powdery warmth of labdanum absolute, amber, musk, Siam benzoin, vanilla and tonka bean, with orris root and cedar drying it towards wood. Oakmoss, saffron and oud settle in the base.

Our Blurry Note

7.8

Superfumista · 2022

Floral · Synthetic · Spicy

Superfumista Our Blurry Note is a unisex scent led by ylang-ylang, jasmine and Tonkin musk, floral, spicy and woody in character. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong, though the ratings come from only a small number of voters, so they are not conclusive. It suits men and women alike. The floral side brings ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose and lily of the valley, while cinnamon, saffron and Sichuan pepper add spice. Underneath, civet, castoreum, labdanum and vanilla give an animal, resinous and leathery warmth. Atlas cedar and Haitian vetiver frame it with wood.

Ohsphalte

7.0

OHTOP · 2023

Fresh · Floral · Green

OHTOP Ohsphalte is a unisex scent, fresh and green over a woody base, that leans towards leisure and daytime wear. Cashmeran, suede, amyris and gaiac wood form its backbone. Labdanum absolute adds a resinous warmth, Indonesian patchouli an earthy depth, while orange blossom and white musk soften the floral side. Spicy and synthetic touches run alongside the fresh, green character. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. It suits leisure and everyday use best, with some votes for work and evenings too. Masculine and feminine votes are close, and many call it modern. Tom Daxon Salvia Sclarea and ATon PaTchouli Lave have a close profile.

Amber – Warm Embrace

7.0

Aloha Senses Perfumes

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Aloha Senses Perfumes Amber – Warm Embrace is a unisex fragrance that sets fresh citrus against a sweet, spicy, resinous warmth, with a clear gourmand side. Lime and ginger give it a lively opening. In the heart, cinnamon, bourbon vanilla absolute, labdanum absolute and Turkish damask rose come forward, so sweet vanilla and spice meet on a floral ground. Amber in the base gathers everything into a soft, resinous warmth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind, while summer is rarely chosen. It is favoured for leisure, nights out and evenings. Its character sits between feminine and masculine.

Millefleures Dark

8.9

N•O•A•M · 2022

Citrus · Floral · Green

N•O•A•M Millefleures Dark is a smoky, woody and resinous unisex scent that has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, though spring and summer still get a fair share. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, and it doesn't settle on one gender: votes split evenly between masculine and feminine. Smoky Lapsang Souchong tea, tobacco and coffee sit on an earthy, woody base. May rose and ylang-ylang add a soft floral note, while lime brings a citrus lift. Laotian oud and labdanum give it a resinous, spicy depth.

Rose Absolument

7.2

Les Parfums de Rosine · 2020

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Les Parfums de Rosine Rose Absolument is a floral, sweet unisex rose scent that suits autumn and spring evenings. Most voters pick autumn, spring and winter, with summer far less favoured. Evening and night out lead the occasions, though it also works for leisure. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Voters tend to read it as feminine and classic. Elemi resin and geranium open it; in the heart, Turkish rose absolute, osmanthus absolute and honey build a sweet floral body. The base of labdanum absolute, papyrus and patchouli adds a resinous, spicy warmth. Frey Wille Sphinx Mystique and Contes de Parfums Salalah have a close profile.

Eshal

7.7

Neela Vermeire Créations · 2025

Fresh · Floral · Green

Neela Vermeire Créations Eshal is a unisex scent that sets fresh citrus against a sweet, spicy, creamy floral heart. Eshal wears strong and projects well, though these ratings come from a small number of votes. It is not tied to one gender and sits comfortably on anyone. It opens bright and green with lime, petitgrain, red mandarin orange and bitter orange. The heart turns to turmeric, cinnamon and Indian tuberose absolute, spicy and creamy at once. Beeswax absolute, Peru balsam and labdanum absolute close it on a sweet, powdery warmth. Tuberosa India by The Merchant Of Venice and Nishane Tuberóza X have a close profile.

Tafir (Extrait)

7.7

Nocturne · 2023

Fruity · Sweet · Synthetic

Extrait de Parfum

Nocturne Tafir Extrait de Parfum is a sweet, resinous men's fragrance that sets the spice of saffron and cardamom against tobacco and Omani frankincense. It opens bright and spicy with red mandarin orange, saffron and cardamom. In the heart, Omani frankincense, dried fruits and tobacco absolute take the lead, while tolu balm and balsam fir add a resinous, slightly sharp edge. The base of tonka bean, Indian sandalwood and musk sweetens and softens it, leaving a fruity, creamy, woody impression. Voters rate both longevity and sillage as strong, though the small number of votes means this is only a rough guide. It reads as masculine, and its concentrated build keeps it noticeable through the day. Avapari Pure Amber and Al Haramain Platinum Oud have a close profile.

Champagne de Bois

7.0

Sonoma Scent Studio · 2008

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Sonoma Scent Studio Champagne de Bois is a woody, powdery unisex scent that lays spice, resin and smoke over a floral core. Jasmine and aldehydes set a floral, lightly powdery base, and clove adds spice to it. Sandalwood and vetiver give the body a woody, earthy weight, while amber and labdanum absolute pull it towards a warm, resinous, smoky and slightly leathery finish. Longevity and sillage are rated good, though from a small number of votes. Most voters pick it for evening and nights out, with daily wear and office use trailing behind. Voters call it more feminine than masculine, but a good share see it as masculine, so it sits comfortably between the two.

Monoliths & Dimensions

8.3

Phronema Perfumes · 2022

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Phronema Perfumes Monoliths & Dimensions is a sweet, resinous and smoky unisex scent with a heavy, woody and earthy build. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, with most voters giving longevity a high mark. With no season or occasion votes to lean on, it is enough to say the dense structure suits men and women alike. The scent rests as a whole on amber, patchouli and labdanum. Black frankincense adds a resinous, smoky edge, Australian sandalwood and Vietnamese oud give woody depth, and vanilla sweetens and softens it all. Powdery and spicy sides also show in the accords.

Black Oregano

7.2

Atelier Materi · 2025

Green · Spicy · Woody

Atelier Materi Black Oregano is a unisex scent that sets the green, spicy freshness of oregano, rosemary and cardamom against dark base notes of leather, oud and patchouli. Voters find its longevity strong and its sillage good, though the number of votes is small, so this is a tentative picture. There are no season or occasion votes, but the woody, smoky, leathery build suggests a dense scent suited to cooler weather. It reads as unisex. It opens with cardamom, Peruvian lime and rosemary, green and spicy. In the heart, Australian sandalwood, Haitian vetiver and oregano lay down a woody, earthy footing. The base of leather, patchouli, oud and labdanum absolute leaves a resinous, smoky warmth. Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline and Carner Drakon have a close profile.

Ládano

7.9

D:SOL MMXVI · 2025

Floral · Green · Sweet

D:SOL MMXVI Ládano is a unisex scent where sweet and resinous notes are roughened by animal and smoky tones, with floral and spicy sides alongside. Voters rate its longevity as good and its sillage as fairly good, though the number of votes is small, so this is only a rough guide. Most voters pick winter and fall, and leisure and evening wear lead. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it doesn't lean clearly to one side. It opens with cinnamon leaf, hedychium, hawthorn and celery seed, a spicy, green and floral start. The heart brings sweetness through immortelle, vanilla, honey and liquorice. In the base, civet, labdanum absolute, styrax and papyrus settle it onto a resinous, earthy, smoky ground. Parfum d'Empire Tabac Tabou has a close profile.

AmbeRum

8.2

Bruno Perrucci · 2022

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Bruno Perrucci AmbeRum is a sweet, gourmand and spicy unisex fragrance, creamy and resinous, warm and dense on the skin. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick it for leisure, evenings and nights out, with daily wear far less often suggested. It reads as neither masculine nor feminine, and it suits cooler evenings best. Cinnamon, clove and rum come first, while caraway and frankincense deepen the spiced opening. In the heart, butter, tobacco and vanilla absolute make it creamy and sweet, and myrrh adds a resinous shadow. The base of amber absolute, benzoin absolute and patchouli sets an earthy, woody floor. Unique'e Luxury Crush On Me and Moresque Fiamma have a close profile.

Fire by Fire

8.0

Anna Zworykina · 2021

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Anna Zworykina Fire by Fire is a smoky, resinous unisex scent that voters link most with leisure time and evenings. Most voters choose it for relaxed daytime wear and evening outings, while office use sits well behind. Longevity and sillage are both rated good, and votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. It has been discontinued. White cedar, oak wood and tobacco absolute come forward, with pine tar and oud building a smoky, leathery base. Thyme, ginger and clove add spice, while osmanthus and ylang-ylang bring a floral sweetness. Tonka bean and Peru balsam soften the whole.

Poivre Sacré

7.5

Caron · 2021

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

Caron Poivre Sacré is a spicy, resinous and woody unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and leisure, night out and evening wear get almost equal shares. Votes split evenly between masculine and feminine, so it moves comfortably between the two. The notes read as one whole: Madagascar pepper, cumin, saffron and nutmeg build the spice, while frankincense, labdanum absolute and patchouli settle it onto a resinous, earthy base. Rose absolute and gaiac wood add a floral, smoky softness, and a sweet, oriental warmth lingers behind.

Here Comes the Son

7.0

Malbrum · 2023

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Malbrum Here Comes the Son is a unisex scent built on a floral, sweet core, softened by powdery, creamy and resinous touches. Tobacco absolute, sandalwood and benzoin form a warm, soft base, while orange blossom absolute and orris butter add a powdery floral note. Bergamot lifts it slightly, and labdanum absolute and muscone deepen the resinous, creamy side. Longevity and sillage are both rated good, though only a small number of voters have weighed in. Most voters pick fall, with the other three seasons close behind. It is chosen mostly for leisure, then for nights out and business. Francesca Bianchi Unspoken Musk and Amado My Muse have a close profile.

Ōn

7.0

AtelierPMP - Perfume Mayr Plettenberg

Green · Synthetic · Spicy

AtelierPMP Ōn is a unisex scent where black pepper, rose and vetiver lead, with a green, spicy and smoky character. It opens with black pepper, basil, marijuana and blackcurrant bud, a sharp, green and spicy start. The heart adds a resinous warmth through rose, frankincense and labdanum absolute, while immortelle and maté absolute keep it dry and herbal. The base of vetiver, leather, patchouli and amber settles into something woody, earthy and smoky. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, though the number of votes is small, so these ratings are tentative. It reads neither strictly masculine nor feminine, and Amouage Memoir Man and Le Labo Vetiver 46 have a close profile.

Hold My Pipe

7.8

Anna Zworykina

Green · Fruity · Sweet

Anna Zworykina Hold My Pipe is a woody, resinous unisex scent built around tobacco absolute, tar and smoke. Tobacco absolute, tar, smoke and gun powder give it a dry, smoky frame. Labdanum, Peru balsam and tonka bean soften that edge with resinous sweetness, while wine and vermouth add a fruity note. Oakmoss and peat bring an earthy, slightly green depth. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Voters choose it mostly for evenings, leisure time and nights out, with office wear far behind. Masculine and feminine votes are equal, so it sits in between. Anna Zworykina Fire by Fire and Robert Piguet Bois Noir have a close profile.