The Perfume Library

No. 25

8.3

Pierre de Velay · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Pierre de Velay No. 25 is a unisex fragrance that carries a fresh opening of grapefruit, lemon and bergamot into a floral heart of May rose and magnolia, then settles on a woody base. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick spring, with summer and fall close behind and winter a little further back. It is chosen most for leisure and evening wear, and it also works at the office. Voters lean towards calling it masculine, though it reads as unisex. The opening is bright citrus, with grapefruit, lemon and bergamot smoothed slightly by aldehydes. The heart turns floral and green around May rose, magnolia and geranium. The base is woody, built on cedarwood, sandalwood and oakmoss, with ginger and cardamom adding a spicy warmth.

Paloma Picasso (1995) (Eau de Toilette)

8.2

Paloma Picasso · 1995

Fresh · Floral · Green

Paloma Picasso (1995) is a fresh, floral and green chypre with a powdery, woody backdrop, a classic-leaning scent made for women. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, with winter not far behind. Leisure and daytime wear lead the votes, though evening and office use also get votes. Voters mostly read it as feminine and classic. It opens fresh, with neroli, lemon and bergamot brightened by aldehydes. In the heart, May rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang form the floral body, while mimosa and hyacinth add a powdery softness. Vetiver, oakmoss and sandalwood then settle it onto a woody, green base.

Harrods Aoud

8.0

Roja Parfums · 2019

Fresh · Floral · Green

Roja Parfums Harrods Aoud is a unisex woody-oriental built on oud, myrrh and frankincense, with cashmere wood and patchouli underneath. Longevity and sillage are rated strong to good. Most voters pick autumn, spring and winter, with summer well behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out; more voters read it as masculine than feminine, and some call it classic. It opens with artemisia, aldehydes and citrus notes, giving a fresh, green brightness. May rose adds a soft floral touch in the heart. The base then turns warm, spicy and resinous with oud, myrrh, frankincense, cinnamon and vanilla, settling onto earthy patchouli and cashmere wood.

Supernova in the Casino

8.6

The Dua Brand

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

The Dua Brand Supernova in the Casino is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, citrusy brightness against spicy, woody and oriental sweetness. Bergamot, grapefruit and lemon give it a bright citrus lift, while lavender, thyme and pink pepper add a spicy edge. Saffron, leather, vanilla and benzoin pull it towards something warm, resinous and sweet. Fruity and floral touches sit in between, and a slightly synthetic sheen runs through the accords. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Votes for spring, summer and autumn are almost level, so it isn't tied to one season. It leans towards leisure time and nights out, and voters tend to call it masculine and modern. Roja Parfums Elysium pour Homme and The Dua Brand Supernova have a close profile.

Mogador

7.4

Keiko Mecheri · 2003

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Keiko Mecheri Mogador is a fresh, green floral unisex scent built around jasmine and three different roses. The scent stays floral from start to finish: jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Moroccan rose and May rose work together. Citrus and green tones keep it fresh, a fruity, sweet side softens the flowers, and a woody backdrop pulls everything together. Longevity is good and sillage moderate, so it stays close without becoming heavy. Most voters pick spring, followed by fall and summer. It leans towards daily wear, leisure and the office. Half of voters read it as feminine, though it works as unisex too. Keiko Mecheri Damascena and Goutal Rose Absolue have a close profile.

Aqua Sapphire

7.6

Boadicea the Victorious · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Boadicea the Victorious Aqua Sapphire is a unisex scent where rum, pineapple and davana meet a fresh, citrusy aquatic feel. Its longevity and sillage are both rated very strong, so it stays noticeable on skin and around you for a long time. Most voters pick summer and spring, and it is chosen mainly for leisure and business settings. It leans masculine in the votes, though some read it as feminine. It opens with rum, pineapple, davana and saffron, which give a fruity, spicy freshness. In the heart, May rose, saffron and Kashmiri musk soften that brightness. Sandalwood, vanilla and amber then settle into a sweet, woody base. Adidas Ice Dive and Versace Dylan Blue have a close profile.

Luberon

7.8

Maria Candida Gentile · 2012

Fresh · Floral · Green

Maria Candida Gentile Luberon is a unisex fougère with a fresh, green and powdery character, leaning towards leisure and everyday wear. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it leaves a trail close to the wearer. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn not far behind. Leisure, daily and business wear lead the occasion votes. Feminine and masculine votes are almost even, and a classic feel shows through. Lavender leads at the start, May rose adds a soft floral heart, and oakmoss lays an earthy base. Behind the fresh, green side, sweet, spicy and powdery tones stay in the background. Lothantique Les Lavandes de Nestor and Esprit Provence Lavande Précieuse have a close profile.

L'oscar

8.5

Roja Parfums · 2018

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Roja Parfums L'oscar opens with bergamot, aldehydes and mandarin orange before moving into neroli, May rose and jasmine, a powdery floral made with women in mind. The fresh top gives way to a dense floral heart in which neroli, May rose, violet and orange blossom lead. In the base, tonka bean, iris and musk sweeten it into a creamy softness, while leather and civet leave an animal trace and clove adds spice. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Voters lean towards fall and winter and towards evening and night out, though it also works in spring and summer. Most call it feminine and classic. Its profile is close to Roja Parfums A Goodnight Kiss and Roja Parfums Karenina.

Rose

7.7

Roja Parfums · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Green

Roja Parfums Rose is a fresh, green floral built around rose, with spice and earth giving it a sharper edge. It has been discontinued and is aimed at women. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and autumn, and it is chosen most for evenings, leisure and nights out. Most see it as feminine, while some call it classic. It opens with bergamot for freshness. The heart holds May rose, ylang-ylang and geranium. In the base, pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg bring spice, galbanum adds green and patchouli adds earth, all softened by vanilla, musk and benzoin. Roos & Roos Malamata and Amouage Bracken Man have a close profile.

Scrumptious

7.9

The Dua Brand · 2018

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

The Dua Brand Scrumptious is a unisex scent that sets cardamom, juniper and oud against sweet notes, spicy, woody and resinous in character. Spicy and woody tones carry it: cardamom, juniper and cumin sit alongside cedarwood. Frankincense and labdanum add a resinous, smoky warmth, while sweet notes and May rose turn it gourmand with a soft floral edge. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick winter and fall, and evenings and nights out fit it best. Feminine and masculine votes are close, so it reads as truly unisex. Roja Parfums Sweetie Aoud and MariaL Yours Deeply have a close profile.

L'Eau Bleue d'Issey Eau Fraîche

7.1

Issey Miyake · 2006

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Issey Miyake L'Eau Bleue d'Issey Eau Fraîche is a fresh, citrusy men's scent that suits summer and spring days; it has been discontinued. It opens cool with mint, bergamot and rosemary. The heart of May rose, maté and peony adds a soft floral and green touch, while patchouli and musk settle it onto a woody base. Aquatic and spicy shades stay in the background. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick summer and spring, and it fits leisure, daily wear and the office. Most read it as masculine. Its profile is close to Hugo Boss Hugo XY and Dolce & Gabbana The One Sport.

Mandodari Mandodari

8.3

Prin · 2023

Floral · Green · Spicy

Prin Mandodari Mandodari is a unisex fragrance built around oakmoss, jasmine absolute and sandalwood, with a floral, green, chypre character. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Voters pick it most often for evenings, leisure and nights out; fall and spring lead slightly, though all four seasons get votes. Most voters call it masculine or feminine, so it sits between the two. As a whole it reads as a rich floral chypre: jasmine, rose and tuberose alongside the green, earthy side of oakmoss, patchouli and camphor. Black pepper, cumin and clove add spice, while ash, tobacco and Thai civet bring a smoky, animal edge. Labdanum and ambergris lend a creamy, resinous warmth.

Mischief (Parfum)

7.6

Roja Parfums · 2012

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Roja Parfums Mischief is a discontinued unisex perfume that most voters place in spring and summer, with a fresh citrus-floral character and a green chypre feel. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. It leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office, yet it also works for evenings and nights out. Most voters read it as feminine, though it remains unisex. Grapefruit, bergamot and lemon open it fresh and bright. In the heart, hyacinth, Grasse jasmine, peach and May rose add a soft floral-fruity touch. Vanilla, patchouli and oakmoss in the base leave a sweet, powdery, woody finish.

Oud Damascena

7.6

Katana · 2021

Citrus · Floral · Spicy

Katana Oud Damascena is a smoky, resinous woody-rose scent suited to autumn and winter evenings; it is unisex and has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong, so it stays on the skin for hours and carries well. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is favoured for evenings and nights out. It reads more masculine than feminine, though it is a unisex fragrance. Bengal oud and oud form the backbone, with smoke and smoky notes carrying it into a leathery, animal depth. Damask rose, rose otto and May rose soften that rough texture with a floral touch, while yuzu adds a thin citrus lift. Oakmoss and ambergris round it out with dryness and warmth.

Rose Hubris

7.2

Ex Nihilo · 2013

Fresh · Floral · Green

Ex Nihilo Rose Hubris is a fresh, green-tinged floral unisex scent that suits spring and summer days best. Lychee and fenugreek open it: the lychee adds a fruity freshness, the fenugreek a lightly spicy warmth. In the heart, May rose meets labdanum for a sweet floral note. Patchouli, oakmoss and musk settle underneath, leaving a woody, powdery base. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and the office lead the occasions. The largest share of voters still reads it as feminine.

Jewels of Blu

6.8

Aqaba · 2007

Fresh · Floral · Aquatic

Aqaba Jewels of Blu is a fresh women's fragrance that links the fruity sweetness of peach and apricot to a floral heart of May rose and ylang-ylang. It opens with peach and apricot, bright and fruity. The heart leans floral with May rose and ylang-ylang, and the base of Bourbon vanilla, Egyptian jasmine and patchouli sweetens it into a powdery, lightly spicy oriental tone. An aquatic accord keeps a fresh edge over the sweetness. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it suits leisure and daily wear best, with business use also common. Most voters find it feminine. Goutal Passion and Frédéric Haldimann Impressions de Soleil have a close profile.

Vetiver Parfum Cologne

7.8

Roja Parfums · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Roja Parfums Vetiver Parfum Cologne is a fresh, green and woody masculine scent built around bergamot, lemon and vetiver. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring, followed by autumn and summer, and it is chosen for leisure, daily wear and the office. It reads masculine and classic. Roja Parfums Vetiver (Parfum) and Guerlain Vetiver Extreme have a close profile. Citrus opens it brightly: bergamot, lemon and litsea cubeba. In the heart, cistus, jasmine and rose soften that coolness. The base settles into an earthy, smoky woodiness of vetiver, cedar, gaiac wood and oakmoss, with nutmeg and pepper adding spicy warmth.

No. 56

8.5

Pierre de Velay

Citrus · Floral · Spicy

Pierre de Velay No. 56 is a chypre-leaning unisex fragrance that pairs a bright lavender and bergamot opening with a deep base of iris, patchouli, oakmoss and leather; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters recommend winter and fall, with spring close behind, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Voters most often read it as masculine and classic. It opens with lavender, bergamot and litsea cubeba in a bright, citrusy start. In the heart, May rose, violet and geranium add a floral softness. The base settles into iris, patchouli, oakmoss, leather, oud and vanilla, giving it an earthy, spicy, resinous and animalic depth. Its profile is close to Roja Parfums 51 pour Homme and Diaghilev.

Adèle

7.6

Gritti · 2018

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Gritti Adèle is a feminine scent that opens fresh and citrusy, then settles into a creamy, powdery floral bouquet. It starts with osmanthus, May rose and jasmine, brightened by a citrus and fruity freshness. In the heart, tobacco flower, tuberose and narcissus take over and the scent turns sweeter and creamier. The base of amber, cedarwood and musk leaves a warm, spicy, woody finish. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters suggest spring, summer and fall, and leisure, daily wear and the office are the most chosen settings. Most voters find it feminine. Giardino Benessere Pompei Garden and Acqua di Parma Gelsomino Nobile have a close profile.

Coup de Foudre (Extrait de Parfum)

8.0

Bortnikoff · 2018

Citrus · Floral · Sweet

Extrait de Parfum

Bortnikoff Coup de Foudre Extrait de Parfum is a sweet, woody unisex scent that sets bright citrus against a warm floral and spicy heart. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring and autumn, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. On character, feminine votes edge ahead, though a fair share call it masculine. It opens with bergamot, lemon, grapefruit and black pepper, bright and sharp. In the heart, May rose, jasmine and tuberose build a full floral body. The base turns creamy, sweet and woody with vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin and sandalwood. Boucheron Jaïpur Homme and Roja Parfums Danger have a close profile.

Majestic Rose

7.4

Yves Saint Laurent · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Yves Saint Laurent Majestic Rose is a sweet, spicy and woody unisex scent that sets May rose against saffron, honey and oud. Rose and raspberry give a floral-fruity sweetness, honey deepens it, and saffron adds a spicy warmth. Oud and gaiac wood form a woody, slightly oriental base. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it sits best in the evening or on a night out. It reads closer to feminine, though it is unisex. Privé Oud Rose and Lancôme Ôud Bouquet have a close profile.

Semi-Bespoke 10

9.0

Roja Parfums

Citrus · Floral · Fruity

Roja Parfums Semi-Bespoke 10 is a unisex chypre-oriental that opens bright with citrus and flowers, then settles into a resinous, spicy, woody base with a touch of smoke; it has been discontinued. Aldehydes, bergamot and mandarin orange give it a bright opening. In the heart, violet, May rose, peach and Grasse jasmine add a soft, fruity floral layer. The base is dominated by frankincense, oakmoss, castoreum, vanilla and myrrh, with spice and powdery tones adding a sweet, leathery depth. Voters find both its longevity and its sillage strong. Most pick fall and winter, with spring close behind and summer least favoured. It reads as dense and rich, equally at home on men and women. Roja Parfums Diaghilev and Qatar have a close profile.

Purple Kinam (Pure Parfum)

8.4

Ensar Oud · 2021

Floral · Green · Fruity

Ensar Oud Purple Kinam is a unisex scent that pairs rose and oud with mushrooms, tobacco and patchouli, sitting between floral and woody. Its notes aren't split into top, heart and base, so it reads as one piece: rose, Turkish rose and May rose give a floral frame, while Burmese, Chinese and Malayan oud, patchouli and vetiver add a woody, earthy weight. Raspberry and strawberry bring a fruity sweetness, and blue lotus and mimosa soften the florals; the spicy, smoky and leathery accords make it darker rather than fresh. Most voters find the longevity strong and the sillage good. They lean towards autumn and winter, with spring also well represented and summer a minority. Masculine and feminine votes are close, so it wears comfortably either way. Purple Kinam (2025) and Ensar Oud Hajar Aswad have a close profile.

Rose Gipsy

7.3

Dior · 2017

Fresh · Floral · Sweet