The Perfume Library

No. 33

6.4

Penhaligon's · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Penhaligon's No. 33 is a unisex scent that sets the sharp freshness of bergamot, grapefruit and mugwort against the spicy warmth of black pepper and ginger; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters recommend spring, summer and fall, while winter plays a minor part. Business and daily wear lead, with evening and night out chosen less. Most voters read it as masculine, though it wears as unisex too. It opens bright and green, with citrus, mugwort and coriander kept dry by cypress and clary sage. The heart brings a light floral softness from lily of the valley, jasmine and rose, while black pepper and ginger add spice. At the base, vetiver, cedarwood, tonka bean and vanilla settle it into a woody, slightly sweet finish.

Cuir de Russie

8.1

Anna Zworykina

Green · Spicy · Woody

Anna Zworykina Cuir de Russie is a unisex scent with a green, spicy and leathery character; its smoky, earthy side suits autumn and winter evenings. It is rated strong for longevity and good for sillage. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. It leans towards leisure time, evenings and nights out, and few choose it for the office. Most voters read it as masculine, though some find it feminine. As a whole it recalls smoky, woody leather. Oakmoss, tar, tobacco and vetiver build a dry, earthy backbone, while patchouli, labdanum and castoreum add a resinous, animal depth. Jasmine and ylang-ylang soften that severity slightly, and galbanum brings a sharp green edge.

Brittany Breeze

6.9

Lubin · 2017

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Lubin Brittany Breeze is a fresh unisex scent built around mint and green notes, best suited to spring and summer days. It opens cool with peppermint, spearmint and bergamot, while star anise and mugwort add a slight edge. In the heart, geranium, galbanum, violet leaf and lavender push it in a green, floral direction. Vetiver, cedar and oakmoss form a woody base underneath. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick summer and spring, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. It reads slightly more masculine than feminine. Its profile is close to Creed Green Irish Tweed and Ralph Lauren Polo Sport.

Kouros Eau de Toilette Tonique 2013

7.1

Yves Saint Laurent · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Eau de Toilette Tonique 2013 is a masculine scent that opens with mugwort, lemon and orange blossom, then moves into marine notes and spice; it has been discontinued. It wears with good longevity and moderate sillage. Most voters pick summer and spring, with leisure, daily wear and the office named most often. Many call it masculine, while others find it classic or modern. The top is mugwort, lemon and orange blossom, with citrus and aquatic accords keeping it cool. Jasmine, cinnamon and marine notes form the heart, and the spice warms that freshness slightly. Virginia cedar, leather and patchouli settle underneath as a woody, animalic base.

Witness (Eau de Toilette)

7.6

Jacques Bogart · 1992

Green · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Toilette

Jacques Bogart Witness Eau de Toilette is a masculine fragrance with a green, spicy streak running through a woody, resinous and earthy character; it has been discontinued. It opens with orange and lemon alongside mugwort, then moves into a heart of geranium, rose and cinnamon. The base is led by benzoin, styrax, patchouli and sandalwood, while the animal and leathery accords give it a rough, oriental edge. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening or night-out wear. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it suits cooler weather and after-dark occasions. Al Haramain Oudi and Memo Paris Oriental Leather have a close profile.

Quatre pour Homme (Eau de Toilette)

5.7

Boucheron · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Boucheron Quatre pour Homme Eau de Toilette is a fresh, citrusy men's fragrance that suits spring and summer days, whether for leisure or the office. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin rather than filling a room. Voters split fairly evenly between spring, fall and summer, and very few pick winter. Most call it masculine, with modern the next most common description. Bergamot, lime and violet leaf open it with a cool, bright edge. Lavender, geranium and mugwort give the heart a floral, slightly spicy turn. Driftwood, labdanum and patchouli settle underneath as a woody base, with aquatic and fruity touches running through. Armaf Ventana and Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò pour Homme have a close profile.

Eau de Verveine

7.6

Penhaligon's · 2009

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Penhaligon's Eau de Verveine is a fresh, citrusy and green fougère, discontinued, in which lemon and bergamot brightness meets the dry feel of lavender and cedarwood, made for both men and women. It opens on lemon, bergamot, lime and petitgrain, with mugwort and coriander adding a green, slightly herbal edge. In the heart, lavender and clove cool the citrus with a little spice, and in the base vanilla, musk and cedarwood sweeten it gently before it dries down on a woody footing. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and the office are the occasions named most often. It leans a little more masculine than feminine, though plenty of voters call it feminine. Caron Le 3ᵉ Homme and Milano Cento Milano Cento have a close profile.

Chaleureux

7.6

ARVE · 2021

Fresh · Green · Sweet

ARVE Chaleureux is a unisex scent that pairs the fresh green of Swiss stone pine, mugwort and Bulgarian lavender with the warmth of cedarwood and amber. It projects at a moderate level and its longevity is rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it is used mainly for leisure, work and daily wear. Votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. It opens cool and green with pine, mugwort and lavender, while cinnamon adds light spice. The heart turns woody and slightly sweet with fig leaf, nutmeg, cedarwood and resins. Moss, suede, amber and cashmere leave a soft, earthy base.

Fosforo

7.9

Arpa

Green · Spicy · Woody

Arpa Fosforo is a green, spicy unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter, with a woody, smoky and earthy character. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, though spring is not far behind. It leans towards leisure, evenings and nights out, and also works for the office. Voters tend to read it as masculine, with a good share calling it classic. It opens with petitgrain and saffron, a green, spicy start. In the heart, sage, iris and myrrh bring a powdery, resinous layer. The base of hiba wood and mugwort keeps it woody, smoky and earthy. Moresque Aurum and Aēsop Ouranon have a close profile.

L.12.12 Blanc Eau Intense

7.1

Lacoste · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Lacoste L.12.12 Blanc Eau Intense is a fresh, citrusy fragrance for men, with a green, spicy and slightly leathery edge that suits everyday wear. Cardamom and mandarin orange open it cool and bright. In the heart, mugwort, lavender and sage bring a green, aromatic feel. Vetiver, leather and sandalwood settle it onto a woody base, while the sweet accord softens the edges. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick summer and spring, and sport, leisure and daily wear lead the occasions. It reads masculine. Penhaligon's Endymion and Stefano Ricci Firenze have a close profile.

Marque-page

7.3

Ormaie · 2021

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Ormaie Marque-page is a unisex scent that most voters tie to evenings and nights out, with a floral, woody body under a smoky, leathery shadow. Marque-page has strong longevity and good sillage. Most voters pick evening and night-out wear, with leisure next; daily and business use trail far behind. It sits in the middle, suiting men and women alike. It opens with davana, frankincense and mugwort. The heart brings iris, geranium, orange blossom, leather and jasmine into a floral warmth. The base leans on vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, oud and amber, drying down sweet, spicy, resinous and earthy. Antonio Alessandria Noir Obscur and Amouage Interlude Man have a close profile.

Nùr Parfum Nektar (Extrait)

7.8

soOud

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Extrait de Parfum

soOud Nùr Parfum Nektar is an Extrait de Parfum for women that sets a sweet, gourmand core against leathery, smoky and resinous tones, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick it for evening or a night out, while leisure wear gets fewer votes. Its dense build suits crowded, cooler evenings. Apricot and lemon give a fruity sweetness, while chamomile and orris root pull it towards a powdery, floral softness. Bourbon vanilla and musk lay a creamy base, and Russian leather, frankincense, cedar and tree moss add a smoky, resinous, woody depth.

Vetyver

7.4

Jo Malone · 1995

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Jo Malone Vetyver is a fresh, green unisex scent that sets citrus against earthy vetiver; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are moderate; most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear and the office lead the occasions. Voters lean masculine, though a good share call it feminine. Orange brings a citrusy, lightly fruity brightness, while vetiver lays down a woody, earthy base. Nutmeg adds a spicy warmth and mugwort deepens the green side. As a whole it reads fresh, dry and natural.

Interdit Absente

7.5

Daniel Josier · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Daniel Josier Interdit Absente is a unisex fragrance that suits leisure and daytime wear, with a fresh, citrusy character carried by green and spicy tones. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate, so it stays close without overpowering a room. Most voters pick it for leisure, daily wear and the office, while evenings and nights come second. It sits comfortably on both men and women. It opens with honey pomelo, mint, pepper and mugwort, a cool and green start. The heart adds orange, litsea cubeba, fennel, pink pepper and ginger, bringing a spicy, citrusy lift. The base settles on sandalwood, blond woods and musk, a soft woody ground, while the lemon sorbet keeps a sweet, fresh edge.

Bogner for Man

6.7

Bogner · 2010

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Pure Vetiver

6.3

Azzaro · 2000

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Azzaro Pure Vetiver is a fresh, citrusy and green men's fragrance, now discontinued, with a calm character that suits daytime and the office. Longevity and sillage are both rated moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear and business come up most often as the occasions for it. Few choose it for night or evening. The top has cardamom, grapefruit, ginger and pepper, so it opens spicy and bright. In the heart, mugwort, lavender and marine notes keep it green and clean. Vetiver leads the base, giving it an earthy, woody footing. Hermès Terre d'Hermès and L'Artisan Parfumeur Vétiver Écarlate have a close profile.

Ettore Bugatti (Eau de Toilette)

8.3

Bugatti · 1992

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Bugatti Ettore Bugatti Eau de Toilette is a classic-leaning men's fragrance that pairs a fresh, citrusy opening with a spicy, leathery body; it has been discontinued. Mandarin orange, grapefruit and bergamot give it a bright start, softened by neroli. In the heart, clove, cinnamon and lavender build a spicy, green fougère feel, with jasmine and rose staying in the background. The base of vetiver, patchouli and Russian leather leaves a woody, slightly animalic trail, warmed by vanilla and amber. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall, and it is chosen most for daily wear, leisure and business. It reads masculine and classic. Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza and Yves Saint Laurent Kouros have a close profile.

Lemoncello

7.6

M8 Moods · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

M8 Moods Lemoncello is a fresh, citrusy and green unisex scent led by lemon, mugwort and black pepper, and it sits close to everyday wear. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Voters pick it most for leisure, daily wear and the office, with evening and night-out shares far smaller. It suits anyone who wants a light, clean trail through the day. Lemon, mugwort, black pepper and basil give the opening a sharp, spicy freshness. The heart brings green notes, petitgrain and white blossoms forward. In the base, white musk, moss, cedarwood and ylang-ylang sweeten it and pull it towards a soft, creamy floral feel. The Merchant Of Venice Esperidi Water and Mancera Lemon Line have a close profile.

Sources d'Origine - Terre Initiale

7.3

Jardin de France · 2016

Fresh · Green · Fruity

Jardin de France Sources d'Origine - Terre Initiale is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, green character against an earthy, woody base. It wears with moderate sillage and good longevity. Most voters pick autumn and spring, though summer has its followers too. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, and it sits comfortably at the office as well. The sample is small, but longevity is rated well. It opens with pink pepper and mandarin orange zest, lively, lightly spicy and fruity. In the heart, mugwort and davana blossom add a green, herbal note. It dries down onto frankincense, Virginia cedar and patchouli, a woody, earthy footing. Comme des Garçons Rouge and Penhaligon's Sports Car Club have a close profile.

Salacious

7.8

Boadicea the Victorious · 2016

Green · Spicy · Woody

Boadicea the Victorious Salacious is a green, smoky unisex scent that leans towards evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Voters pick it most for evening, then leisure and a night out, while business wear stays in the background. It reads as wearable by anyone, masculine or feminine. It opens with cardamom, cypress, mugwort and absinth, giving a green, spicy edge. The heart holds pine needle, smoke bush, sweet clover and ginger. The base of vetiver, leather, patchouli and labdanum turns woody, earthy, leathery and resinous, with musk and castoreum carrying the animal side.

Archangels

8.0

Cæleste · 2024

Citrus · Floral · Spicy

Cæleste Archangels is a unisex scent where tuberose, rose and neroli sit over a smoky, resinous frankincense and myrrh, with a floral, woody and spicy character. Pink pepper, mandarin orange and elemi resin give it a bright, spicy citrus lift. Tuberose, rose, neroli and lily form the floral body; benzoin, cedar and ambergris soften it, while frankincense, myrrh and mugwort pull it towards a smoky, resinous tone. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters rate its longevity high, while opinion on sillage is split roughly in half. It suits anyone who likes smoky, resinous scents regardless of gender. Perfumes with a close profile include L'Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'Enfer and Tauer Perfumes № 06 - Incense Rosé.

Supernova

6.8

Roads · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Roads Supernova is a fresh, lightly spicy and woody unisex scent in which citrus meets green notes; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage sit between moderate and weak, so it stays quiet and close to the skin. Voters place it mostly in leisure and daily wear, with office use not far behind. Masculine and feminine votes are almost even; the scent sits between the two. It opens with bergamot, lemon, grapefruit and mandarin orange, while green notes and rosemary add a herbal freshness. In the heart, cardamom, ginger and cognac bring a spicy warmth. At the base, oakmoss, cedarwood and musk settle it onto a soft, woody floor.

Ormolu

7.4

Penhaligon's · 1977

Citrus · Floral · Green

Penhaligon's Ormolu is a green, floral chypre that suits autumn and winter best, though spring works too; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn, winter and spring, and it leans towards leisure and daily wear. It is labelled feminine, though some voters find it masculine. Penhaligon's Jubilee Bouquet and Lancôme Magie have a close profile. The top holds bergamot, chamomile and mugwort, giving a citrus and green opening. The heart of rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and violet builds a floral, powdery body. The base of sandalwood, moss, amber and musk leaves a woody, spicy warmth.

slightly-b!tch

6.4

Filippo Sorcinelli · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Filippo Sorcinelli slightly-b!tch is a unisex scent that opens fresh with citrus and green notes, then settles onto a leathery, smoky backdrop. Voters find its longevity strong and its sillage good, though the number of votes is small, so the picture is tentative. There is no clear lean towards a season or occasion, and it isn't tied to one gender: it can sit on a man or a woman alike. It opens with bitter orange, clementine and spearmint in a bright citrus layer, while green almond and leather add a sharper edge. Mugwort, ylang-ylang, hawthorn and labdanum bring a floral, spicy heart. Cedarwood and pine wood leave a woody, faintly smoky base.