The Perfume Library

Les Nombres d'Or - Cuir

7.5

Maison Mona di Orio · 2010

Spicy · Woody · Animal

Maison Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or - Cuir is a masculine, leather-led scent with a spicy, smoky edge, best suited to fall and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Leather, castoreum and opoponax form the backbone. Cardamom and cade juniper add a spicy, smoky hardness, while absinth sharpens the heavy build slightly. The accords are woody, resinous, earthy and animal, with little sweetness or floral softness. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evenings or nights out; summer is rarely chosen. It reads masculine and classic. Sonoma Scent Studio Fireside Intense and Initio Divine Attraction have a close profile.

Per Fumum: Ambra Luminosa

8.3

Annette Neuffer · 2016

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Annette Neuffer Per Fumum: Ambra Luminosa is a sweet, resinous unisex scent, with spice, wood and smoke keeping that sweetness warm and dark. Most voters recommend it for autumn and winter, and lean towards evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Masculine and feminine votes are almost level, so it sits comfortably on either side. It opens spicy, with cardamom, black pepper, bergamot and elemi resin. Towards the heart, tobacco, rose otto and frankincense come forward. In the base, myrrh, tonka bean, Bourbon vanilla and amber weigh in, and the scent sweetens and settles into a resinous warmth. Xerjoff Empiryan and Amouage Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco have a close profile.

Oud Bleu Intense

8.1

Fragrance Du Bois

Fresh · Citrus · Fruity

Fragrance Du Bois Oud Bleu Intense is a unisex oriental that sets a fresh, citrusy opening against a resinous, smoky woodiness, moving from bright spice towards the warmth of oud and amber. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, fall and summer, with winter the least chosen. Daily wear, leisure, evening and business all draw similar support. Voters mostly find it masculine, though a fair share read it as feminine. It opens with cardamom, nutmeg and mandarin orange, a fresh, spicy and slightly fruity start. Amber, cistus, frankincense and myrrh form the heart, and the base of oud, styrax, opoponax and benzoin settles into something sweet, resinous and smoky. The Dua Brand Aoud Intense Bleu and Fragrance Du Bois Oud Violet Intense have a close profile.

Spellbound (1991) (Eau de Parfum)

7.3

Estēe Lauder · 1991

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Estēe Lauder Spellbound is a sweet, powdery floral-oriental that suits autumn and winter evenings, with a feminine character; it has been discontinued. It opens with orange blossom, rosewood, coriander and pimento, a spicy floral start. Heliotrope, rose, tuberose and jasmine lead the heart, and a base of vanilla, benzoin, musk and cedar settles it into a resinous, woody, slightly animal warmth. Longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening or a night out; they call it feminine and classic. Dior Poison (Esprit de Parfum) and Chanel Coco (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Mirra

7.0

Tesori d'Oriente

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Tesori d'Oriente Mirra is a unisex scent where a fresh, floral opening settles into a resinous, sweet and powdery body. Peony, orange and bergamot give it a bright start. In the heart, amber, opoponax, benzoin and myrrh build a spicy, resinous warmth, while vanilla, musk, sandalwood and cedarwood rest it on a creamy, woody base. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind; leisure and daily wear lead, though business and evening get votes too. It leans feminine in how it reads. Moresque Seta and Xerjoff Amber Star have a close profile.

Vanille Noire du Mexique

7.5

La Maison de la Vanille · 2005

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

La Maison de la Vanille Vanille Noire du Mexique is a sweet, floral scent built on vanilla, patchouli and opoponax in the base, made for women and leaning towards fall and winter. Bergamot opens with a light freshness, then jasmine and rose lay a floral heart. In the base, vanilla, opoponax and patchouli come forward, while iris rounds it off with a powdery softness. The overall feel is gourmand, spicy and oriental. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays noticeable up close without filling the room. Most voters recommend fall and winter, with evening and leisure wear leading the occasions. Voters mostly read it as feminine. Perfumes with a close profile include La Maison de la Vanille Vanille Givrée des Antilles and Guerlain Eau de Shalimar.

Oro 1920

8.0

Bois 1920 · 2013

Fruity · Spicy · Woody

Bois 1920 Oro 1920 is a fruity, spicy and woody unisex scent in which raspberry and fir meet frankincense and ginger before settling into vanilla and leather. The top opens with raspberry, fir, frankincense and ginger, a fruity sweetness over a resinous, spicy footing. In the heart, opoponax, May rose absolute and osmanthus add a soft floral touch. The base of vanilla, leather, benzoin and tobacco pulls it towards a smoky, oriental warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Masculine leads the character votes, though a fair number of voters find it feminine. Armani Privé Cuir Majesté and Monkoku Oriental Raspberry have a close profile.

Oud

7.9

John Varvatos · 2014

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

John Varvatos Oud is a spicy, smoky men's fragrance that leans towards autumn and winter evenings. Longevity is good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out are the occasions it suits best. Most see it as masculine, with a classic side too. It opens dry and slightly green with juniper berry, tobacco and clary sage. In the heart, clove, cinnamon, saffron and cardamom bring the spice, softened by rose and jasmine. The base of oud, myrrh, frankincense, black leather and amber settles into a sweet, resinous, woody warmth. The smoky, leathery edge stays present throughout.

Honour 43

8.7

Amouage · 2021

Fresh · Floral · Green

Amouage Honour 43 is a fresh, floral women's fragrance that leans towards spring and summer, suiting daily wear and the office. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, and name leisure and daily use as the main occasions; most also find it feminine. It can be worn in autumn too, and is chosen less often in winter. It opens with rhubarb leaf, coriander and pepper, a fresh, green and lightly spicy start. In the heart, tuberose, jasmine, gardenia, lily of the valley and carnation build a floral, creamy, powdery body. The base of vetiver, sandalwood, leather and frankincense adds a woody, sweet depth. Amouage Honour Woman and The Dua Brand Glory for Her 43 have a close profile.

Ambre Intense

7.7

Evody

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Evody Ambre Intense is a sweet, spicy unisex amber and wood scent that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Bay leaf gives a spicy first impression. The heart holds sandalwood, patchouli and frankincense, while amber and opoponax in the base sweeten it and carry it into a warm, resinous finish. Overall it reads gourmand, earthy and slightly smoky. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Feminine and masculine votes sit close together, so it doesn't lean firmly either way. Profumum Roma Patchouly and Evody Noir d'Orient have a close profile.

Knot Eau Absolue

8.3

Bottega Veneta · 2018

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Bottega Veneta Knot Eau Absolue is a floral, sweet scent deepened by spice, resin and a faint smokiness, aimed at women, and it has been discontinued. Lavender and orange blossom open it, jasmine sits in the heart, and opoponax anchors the base. The floral accord leads, softened by sweet, creamy tones, while the spicy, woody and resinous sides give it an oriental depth and a slightly smoky dry-down. Longevity and sillage are rated strong and good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is worn most often for evenings and nights out. Voters mostly read it as feminine, with a classic streak. Yves Saint Laurent Opium (2009) and Estēe Lauder Cinnabar (2015) have a close profile.

Calling all Angels

7.8

April Aromatics · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

April Aromatics Calling all Angels is a sweet, smoky unisex scent of amber, resin and honey that suits autumn and winter evenings best. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring a distant second. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and is worn in leisure hours too. Votes split between masculine and feminine, so it doesn't lean on either. The scent reads as one warm, resinous whole: amber, benzoin, labdanum and frankincense form the body, softened by honey and vanilla. Rose otto adds a floral note, while tonka bean and precious woods give a woody, faintly smoky warmth.

Noir de Réminiscence

7.3

Réminiscence · 2009

Fresh · Floral · Green

Réminiscence Noir de Réminiscence is a men's fragrance with a green, fresh opening over a smoky, resinous and woody body; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it scores highest for evenings and nights out. Voters mostly read it as masculine. It opens fresh and green with galbanum, eucalyptus and bergamot, then moves into a woody heart of cedarwood, patchouli and rose. The base settles on frankincense, sandalwood and Bourbon vanilla, leaving a spicy, earthy and lightly sweet resinous finish. Etro Shaal Nur and Marc Gebauer Berserker have a close profile.

Eldritch

7.6

Pineward · 2021

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Pineward Eldritch is a green, resinous unisex scent with a woody, smoky character, and it suits autumn and winter best. Eldritch is rated good for both longevity and sillage. Most voters pick winter and autumn, with spring and summer well behind. It leans towards leisure time and evenings. Most voters read it as masculine, though a fair share find it feminine. The notes read as one blend: pine needle and fir give a green, resinous air that oakmoss and patchouli turn earthy. Smoke and leather leave a rough edge, while opoponax and myrrh add a sweet, spicy warmth. Oolong tea softens the heavier texture a little.

H - The Exclusive Black Tier

8.2

Roja Parfums · 2016

Floral · Fruity · Spicy

Roja Parfums H - The Exclusive Black Tier is a dense, dark unisex scent, spicy, woody and resinous, that suits autumn and winter evenings. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and night-out and evening wear lead the occasions. It is unisex, though more voters read it as masculine, and it also gets a classic label. Bergamot opens it, while May rose, violet, Grasse jasmine and raspberry give the heart a floral, fruity softness. The base is where it gets heavy: suede, oud, patchouli, myrrh and vanilla dominate, and birch and pepper add a leathery, smoky edge. Roja Parfums Qatar and Roja Parfums Kuwait have a close profile.

Evernia (Eau de Parfum)

7.6

Ormonde Jayne · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Parfum

Ormonde Jayne Evernia Eau de Parfum is a fresh, green chypre that pairs a bright bergamot and pink pepper opening with a floral heart of jasmine, violet and rose, resting on oakmoss and sandalwood; it is a unisex scent. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, with leisure and business settings leading. Character votes lean slightly masculine. It has been discontinued. It opens with bergamot, cardamom, pink pepper and blackcurrant absolute, fresh and lightly spicy. The heart brings jasmine, orris butter, violet and rose, soft and floral. The base settles into a dry, woody ground of oakmoss, sandalwood and musk.

Empire des Indes

8.1

Oriza L. Legrand · 2021

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Oriza L. Legrand Empire des Indes is a unisex scent that takes a floral, sweet body and deepens it with spice, resin and a hint of smoke, suiting evenings in the cooler months. It opens with musk and ginger, then moves into Peru balsam, Nag Champa and heliotrope. In the base, tonka bean, benzoin and opoponax close it with a sweet, powdery, resinous warmth. The oriental side dominates, while the woody and smoky tones stay in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and summer barely features. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, then for leisure time. Votes lean feminine, though a good share call it masculine.

Dilmun

7.2

Lorenzo Villoresi · 2000

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Lorenzo Villoresi Dilmun is a fresh, floral unisex scent that leans towards spring and summer and sits easily in casual, everyday wear. Most voters pick spring and summer, with leisure, daytime and office wear leading the occasions. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, so it leaves a close, unobtrusive trail. Votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine, which puts it somewhere in between. It opens with orange blossom, rose and citrus notes alongside green leaves, while neroli and jasmine carry the fresh floral feel. In the heart, frankincense, laurel and opoponax add a spicy depth. The base of sandalwood, cedarwood and vanilla settles into a woody, lightly sweet and powdery finish.

Mirabile

7.6

V Canto · 2015

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

V Canto Mirabile is a sweet, gourmand unisex scent with a spicy, resinous side that leans oriental. It opens with opoponax, vanilla and malt, and the heart turns creamy with milk, rum and rose absolute, while Bourbon geranium and lavender add a slightly green edge. The base of patchouli, clove, musk and tonka bean dries down warm and powdery, with a soft vanilla trail. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is worn mostly in the evening and on nights out. Most voters read it as feminine. Phil Julian Fovere and Penhaligon's Clandestine Clara have a close profile.

Avicenna Myrrha Mystica

8.3

Annette Neuffer · 2016

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Annette Neuffer Avicenna Myrrha Mystica is a floral, sweet and spicy unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with Murcott mandarin, bergamot, cinnamon, saffron and cardamom, a bright spiced start. The heart is led by Somalian myrrh with Turkish rose, Persian rose and Egyptian jasmine, while frankincense and elemi resin give the flowers a resinous depth. In the base, Indian sandalwood, labdanum, Bourbon vanilla and Siam benzoin sweeten and soften it, with woody and smoky tones staying in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evenings, nights out and leisure are the most mentioned occasions. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it reads comfortably either way. Annette Neuffer Avicenna and Avicenna White Rose & Oud have a close profile.

Paestum Rose

7.3

Eau d'Italie · 2006

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose sets Turkish rose, osmanthus and frankincense between a peppery opening and a resinous, woody base; it is unisex and has been discontinued. The opening is fresh and sharp, with coriander seed, black pepper and pink pepper. In the heart, Turkish rose and osmanthus lead, and frankincense warms the floral side with resin. The base of papyrus, wenge wood and myrrh settles into something sweet, woody and lightly smoky. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, and leisure and evening wear come up most often. Feminine gets slightly more votes than masculine, though both draw a real share, so it sits somewhere in between.

Marbert Woman

7.4

Marbert · 1987

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Marbert Woman is a floral, sweet chypre that leans towards autumn and winter and suits evenings and nights out; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, favour evening and night-out wear, and also see room for office and daily use. Most voters read it as feminine, with some calling it classic. It opens with bergamot, lemon, fruity and green notes and rosewood. In the heart, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine and iris build a floral core, while patchouli and sandalwood give it a woody footing. The base of vanilla, benzoin, moss and Russian leather dries down sweet, powdery, smoky and animalic.

Bass Solo

7.6

The Vagabond Prince · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Green

The Vagabond Prince Bass Solo is a unisex scent that moves from a fresh, citrusy opening into a woody, resinous and earthy base. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn, followed by winter and spring, and it leans towards evenings, leisure and nights out. Most voters read it as masculine. Cardamom, lime and ginger give a fresh, spicy start. In the heart, lavender, birch tar and cedar bring a woody dryness. The base of driftwood, amber, sandalwood and patchouli settles warm, resinous and slightly creamy.

51 pour Homme (Parfum)

8.5

Roja Parfums · 2017

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Roja Parfums 51 pour Homme is a men's perfume that sets lavender, violet and oud inside a floral, spicy and woody blend; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong, so the scent stays on the skin and carries well. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and is described as masculine and classic. It opens with bergamot, lavender and lemon, fresh and aromatic. The heart turns floral with violet, jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang. The base settles into oud, patchouli, leather and vanilla, spicy, smoky and sweet, with resinous and animal tones deepening it.