The Perfume Library

Jubilation XXV Man

8.4

Amouage · 2008

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Amouage Jubilation XXV Man is a resinous, smoky fragrance in which orange, clove and cinnamon meet honey, setting a fruity sweetness over a spicy, woody base. It opens with orange, blackberry and coriander giving a fruity brightness, while frankincense and labdanum slip resin underneath. In the heart, clove, cinnamon and honey build a sweet spiciness; the base of oud, myrrh and patchouli leaves a smoky, woody depth. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads masculine, with a classic side as well. Killer Oud Jubilant and Amouage Jubilation 40 have a close profile.

Carlisle

8.4

Parfums de Marly · 2015

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Parfums de Marly Carlisle is a sweet, spicy and resinous unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with nutmeg, green apple and saffron; rose, osmanthus, davana and tonka bean then add a sweet, creamy heart. The base of patchouli, sandalwood, opoponax and vanilla leaves a woody, smoky, gourmand warmth. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most voters find it masculine, though it is classed as unisex. The Dua Brand Cumbria and Parfums de Marly Herod have a close profile.

Interlude Man

7.8

Amouage · 2012

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Amouage Interlude Man opens with bergamot, pimento and oregano and settles into oud, patchouli and leather, a sweet, spicy and smoky fragrance for men. The top notes of bergamot, pimento and oregano give a sharp, spicy start. In the heart, frankincense, amber, opoponax and cistus add a resinous warmth. The base of oud, patchouli, leather and sandalwood makes it woody, earthy and smoky, with the sweetness staying in the background throughout. Both longevity and sillage are rated very strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads masculine and classic. Amouage Interlude 53 and Afnan Perfumes Supremacy Incense have a close profile.

Coco Mademoiselle (Eau de Parfum)

7.8

Chanel · 2001

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Parfum

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum is a fresh, citrus-opening floral for women, sweet and powdery enough to feel soft from day into evening. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick spring and fall, though summer and winter are not far behind. Votes spread almost evenly across daily wear, nights out, evenings, leisure and business. Voters clearly read it as feminine. It opens with orange, mandarin orange, bergamot and orange blossom for a bright citrus start. The heart brings ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose and mimosa, a soft floral centre. The base of vanilla, white musk, tonka bean and patchouli takes over, settling sweet, powdery and slightly spicy. Chanel Coco Noir (Eau de Parfum) and One Avenue Pearl have a close profile.

Reflection 45

8.8

Amouage · 2021

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Amouage Reflection 45 pairs the fresh, spicy opening of pink pepper, cardamom and lavender with the soft sweetness of vanilla, tonka bean and iris, then settles on dry vetiver and sandalwood; it is made for men. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, though it is also worn in summer and winter. It is chosen most for nights out and evenings, and it also fits business and daily wear. Voters mostly read its character as masculine and classic. It opens fresh and spicy, with pink pepper, cardamom and lavender alongside juniper berry. In the heart, neroli, jasmine and iris add a floral, powdery side, while vanilla and tonka bean make it creamy and sweet. The base rests on vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli and frankincense, woody and resinous.

Amber Star

8.6

Xerjoff · 2013

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Xerjoff Amber Star is a sweet, spicy and resinous unisex scent in which myrrh, sandalwood, benzoin and Bourbon vanilla take the lead. Most voters recommend it for autumn and winter, and summer is rarely chosen. It is picked mostly for evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Votes on character lean masculine, with a sizeable feminine share as well. It opens with cedarwood, ylang-ylang and amber. Towards the heart, myrrh, gurjum balsam and gaiac wood build a woody, resinous base. In the base, opoponax, sandalwood, benzoin and Bourbon vanilla carry it into a powdery, creamy, oriental sweetness.

Decas

7.9

Xerjoff · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Xerjoff Decas is a unisex fragrance that opens on tuberose, tobacco and Calabrian mandarin orange, fresh and floral first, then settling into a sweet, creamy base. Voters rate both longevity and sillage as good. Most pick spring, autumn and summer, with winter getting a smaller share. Leisure and evening wear lead the occasion votes, with daily and business use close behind. Voters lean slightly masculine, though a sizeable share call it feminine. The top notes pair tuberose and tobacco with mandarin, giving a fresh yet spicy start. In the heart, opoponax, benzoin and Tuscan white iris soften things. The base of Bourbon vanilla, musk and tolu balm leaves a sweet, creamy trail. Xerjoff Nero70 and L'Erbolario Osmanthus have a close profile.

Noir (Eau de Parfum)

7.7

Tom Ford · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Tom Ford Noir Eau de Parfum is a sweet, spicy men's scent that opens with violet, bergamot and pink pepper and settles into vanilla, benzoin and amber. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, spring comes well behind, and few choose summer. It is favoured most for evenings and nights out, with business and daily wear getting fewer votes. Many see it as masculine and classic. The top carries violet, bergamot, pink pepper and caraway. In the heart, rose, iris, nutmeg and black pepper lead, with the floral side kept in check by spice. The base turns sweet, powdery and resinous through vanilla, benzoin, amber and leather, while vetiver and patchouli add a woody, earthy depth.

Outlands

8.5

Amouage · 2024

Citrus · Sweet · Spicy

Amouage Outlands is a unisex scent that sets a bright opening of lemon, Sichuan pepper and cardamom against a warm, smoky base of oud, vanilla and amber. It opens fresh and spicy with lemon, bergamot and cardamom, while frankincense and elemi resin add a light resinous weight. In the heart, saffron, rose and patchouli come forward. The base of oud, vanilla, benzoin and labdanum settles into something sweet, creamy and smoky. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and very few choose summer. It leans towards evenings and nights out. Most voters read it as masculine, though some find it feminine. Rayhaan Terra and Arabiyat Prestige Ramad Oriental share a close profile.

Star Musk

8.1

Xerjoff · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Xerjoff Star Musk is a sweet, powdery and creamy floral-woody scent, offered as a unisex perfume that suits fall and spring evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall, spring and winter, with summer well behind. It is chosen mostly for evening, a night out and leisure. Voters call it feminine more often than masculine, though plenty say masculine, so it wears comfortably on either side. It opens with mandarin orange zest, ambergris and floral notes. In the heart, vetiver, cinnamon, clove, patchouli, iris and sandalwood build a spicy, woody body. The base of musk, vanilla, benzoin and opoponax settles into a sweet, creamy warmth. Épicure La Belle Mirage and The Dua Brand Dua's Musk have a close profile.

CK Be

7.0

Calvin Klein · 1996

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Calvin Klein CK Be is a fresh, powdery unisex scent that opens on citrus and mint and dries down to a sweet, woody base; it has been discontinued. Bergamot, mint, mandarin orange and juniper berry give it a cool opening. White peach and spices then lean the heart fruity and floral. Tonka bean, opoponax and sandalwood leave a sweet, powdery, woody finish. Longevity and sillage are rated weak, so it stays close to the skin. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, leisure and business are the most chosen settings. On character, masculine leads slightly with feminine close behind. Carolina Herrera Chic for Men (Eau de Toilette) and Anima Vinci Neroli Wisdom have a close profile.

Honour Woman (Eau de Parfum)

7.9

Amouage · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Green

Eau de Parfum

Amouage Honour Woman Eau de Parfum is defined by rhubarb, tuberose and gardenia: a fresh, green opening gives way to a creamy, powdery bouquet of white flowers. The top is rhubarb, coriander and black pepper, so it starts fresh, green and lightly spicy. In the heart, tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, lily of the valley and carnation lead, and the floral side turns creamy and powdery. The base of vetiver, leather, amber and frankincense closes it with a sweet, balanced warmth. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, leisure and business are the most chosen occasions. Most voters find it feminine.

Squid

7.6

Zoologist · 2019

Fresh · Aquatic · Sweet

Zoologist Squid is a salty, inky unisex scent that suits spring through autumn and relaxed, off-duty hours best. Squid opens fresh and aquatic, with frankincense, salicylate and pink pepper on top. The heart holds opoponax, salty notes and drawing ink, with a sweet, resinous and slightly smoky layer over them. The base of benzoin, ambergris and musk softens everything and closes on an animal warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn, spring and summer, with winter chosen by fewer. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, while business and sport get few votes. Most voters read it as masculine, though modern and feminine each draw a sizeable share. Mirus Fine Fragrance Driftwood and Fragonard Santal Cardamome have a close profile.

Interlude 53

8.4

Amouage · 2020

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Amouage Interlude 53 opens with pimento and oregano and moves into frankincense, oud and leather, a spicy, smoky, resinous fragrance for men. Its longevity and sillage are both rated very strong, and most voters pick fall and winter, with summer rarely chosen. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and sits in the background for office or daily wear. Around half of voters call it masculine, and very few call it feminine. Bergamot gives a brief freshness at the top before pimento and oregano turn it spicy. In the heart, frankincense, amber, opoponax and cistus build a resinous, smoky warmth, while oud, patchouli, leather and sandalwood leave a woody, leathery weight underneath. Amouage Interlude Man and Monkoku Amber Incense have a close profile.

Habdan

8.1

Parfums de Marly · 2013

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Parfums de Marly Habdan is a sweet, spicy and smoky men's fragrance built around frankincense, saffron, oud and amber; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, while summer gets very few votes. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, and most voters read it as masculine. It opens with frankincense and saffron, giving a resinous, spicy start. In the heart, apple adds a fruity sweetness, which rose and oud settle onto a woody, smoky ground. The base of maltol, opoponax and amber closes it in a sweet, oriental warmth. Lattafa Opulent Oud and Swiss Arabian Kashkha (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Fat Electrician

7.3

Etat Libre d'Orange · 2009

Green · Sweet · Synthetic

Etat Libre d'Orange Fat Electrician is a men's fragrance that sets a dry, spicy opening of elemi resin and black pepper against a sweet, resinous base of myrrh and vanilla. Elemi and black pepper give the opening a peppery edge, while cedarwood and vetiver build a woody, earthy heart. In the base, opoponax, myrrh and vanilla absolute turn it creamy and sweet. The overall impression is a woody resin, tempered by green and smoky tones, with a slightly synthetic feel. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall, then spring, and it leans towards leisure and daily wear, with some votes for business and evening. Most read it as masculine, though some call it feminine. Le Couvent Valparaiso and Montblanc Black Meisterstück have a close profile.

Midnight Oud (Eau de Parfum)

7.6

Ard Al Zaafaran

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Ard Al Zaafaran Midnight Oud Eau de Parfum is a sweet, smoky men's fragrance that opens with thyme, bergamot and frankincense and deepens into patchouli, opoponax and leather. Most voters choose it for winter and autumn, and find it best suited to evenings and nights out. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong, and many see it as masculine and classic. At first, thyme's spicy freshness is softened by bergamot, while frankincense adds a resinous note. In the heart, patchouli, opoponax and leather build a woody, leathery body; at the base, labdanum, vanilla and amber sweeten it into a warm, oriental finish.

Jubilation 40

8.5

Amouage · 2023

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Amouage Jubilation 40 is a spicy, smoky men's fragrance that suits fall and winter evenings. It is rated strong in longevity and good in sillage; most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads masculine and classic, and it is rarely chosen for summer heat. It opens with rosemary, blackcurrant and orange for a fruity lift. The heart carries cinnamon, clove and rose for spice and sweetness, with frankincense adding a resinous depth. Oud, patchouli and cedarwood settle into a woody, smoky base. Amouage Jubilation XXV Man and Monkoku Silent Moon have a close profile.

Mortal Skin

8.0

Stéphane Humbert Lucas · 2015

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Mortal Skin opens with cardamom, saffron and blackberry and settles into labdanum and ambergris, a sweet, spicy and resinous unisex scent. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind and summer rarely chosen. It leans towards evenings and nights out. Voters read it as slightly more masculine than feminine, though many call it feminine. The opening pairs the spice of cardamom and saffron with the fruity sweetness of blackberry. In the heart, opoponax, sandalwood and iris add a woody, powdery softness. The base of labdanum, musk and ambergris carries it into a warm, resinous drydown with smoky and leathery touches.

Poison (Esprit de Parfum)

7.9

Dior · 1985

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Dior Poison (Esprit de Parfum) is a dense, sweet and spicy women's fragrance suited to evenings and nights out and to the fall and winter months; it has been discontinued. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated very strong, so it leaves a noticeable trail. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening or a night out; summer and the office are rarely chosen. About half of voters call it feminine, and many of the rest call it classic. It opens with coriander, aniseed, pimento and plum. The heart builds a floral body of tuberose, neroli and rose, while cinnamon and frankincense add a spicy, smoky edge. In the base, vanilla, amber, sandalwood and musk sweeten it and settle into a powdery, oriental softness. Dior Poison (1992) and Yves Saint Laurent Opium (1977) have a close profile.

Sécrétions Magnifiques

3.2

Etat Libre d'Orange · 2006

Fresh · Floral · Aquatic

Etat Libre d'Orange Sécrétions Magnifiques is a unisex scent that most voters wear in spring and for leisure time. Longevity and sillage are both rated good, and votes spread into fall and winter too. It sits between masculine and feminine, with votes split almost evenly. It opens with marine notes, aldehydes and salt, a fresh, aquatic start. The heart brings milk, blood and adrenalin. In the base, sandalwood, iris and opoponax take over, and the scent turns powdery and creamy. Animal and synthetic accents run through the blend.

Opium (1977) (Parfum)

8.0

Yves Saint Laurent · 1977

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Yves Saint Laurent Opium (Parfum) is a rich, heavy oriental for women, floral, sweet and spicy, and best suited to evenings and the colder months. It has been discontinued. It opens with coriander, bergamot and clove, which give it a bright, spicy start. Cinnamon, rose and sandalwood lead the heart, and the base of vanilla, amber, myrrh and benzoin turns sweet, resinous and smoky. Powdery and animal tones darken the whole further. Most voters wear it in winter and fall, in the evening or on a night out. Its longevity and sillage are rated very strong, so a little goes a long way. Most voters call it feminine and classic.

Iris Torréfié

7.8

Guerlain · 2020

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Guerlain Iris Torréfié is a unisex scent that roasts a floral, sweet core with spice and coffee, and it suits fall and spring best. It has been discontinued. It opens with bergamot, coffee and cardamom, the latter two giving a roasted, spicy edge. In the heart, Iris pallida concrete and ambrette bring a powdery, creamy softness. The base of vanilla, sandalwood and opoponax sweetens it and closes on a warm, woody note. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close without being faint. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter not far behind. Occasions are spread evenly across business, daily, evening and night wear. Most voters read it as feminine, though a fair share see it as masculine. Danner & Flemming Iris Trousseau and Gritti Giudecca have a close profile.

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique

8.5

Guerlain · 2013

Citrus · Floral · Sweet

Guerlain Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route du Mexique is a women's fragrance for fall and winter evenings, with a gourmand character built on vanilla and chocolate; it has been discontinued. It opens on Mexican vanilla and moves into caramel and chocolate at the heart. The base holds frankincense, tonka bean, iris and opoponax. A powdery, resinous and slightly smoky depth sits under the sweet, gourmand core, while citrus and spice stay in the background. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening or night out. Most find it feminine, and some read it as classic. Erik Kormann November and Memo Paris Manoa have a close profile.