The Perfume Library

Colonia Leather (Eau de Cologne Concentrée)

8.1

Acqua di Parma · 2014

Citrus · Fruity · Spicy

Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather is a masculine scent for autumn and winter evenings, moving from bright citrus into leather; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and also finds a place at work and for daily wear. Voters read it as masculine and classic. Acqua di Parma Leather (Eau de Parfum) and Xerjoff Homme have a close profile. It opens with Sicilian lemon, Brazilian orange and raspberry, a bright citrus-fruit start. The heart brings rose, honeysuckle, Paraguayan petigrain and red thyme, with a spicy tone taking over. In the base, Paraguayan gaiac wood, Atlas cedar and leather settle into a woody, smoky, resinous finish.

Palo Santo

7.4

Carner · 2015

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Carner Palo Santo is a sweet, smoky unisex scent that suits cooler seasons and evenings best. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening, leisure and nights out leading the occasions. Feminine and masculine votes sit close together, so it reads comfortably on either side. It opens with rum and davana, then moves into Venezuelan tonka bean, milk and Paraguayan gaiac wood. The base of Haitian vetiver, Atlas cedar and Dominican amyris sets a woody floor. The sweet, gourmand side stays creamy and soft, while the spicy and smoky tones are balanced by the wood.

Bois d'Ébène

7.8

Matière Première · 2019

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Matière Première Bois d'Ébène is a woody, smoky and sweet unisex scent that suits fall and winter days best. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good, and most voters pick fall and winter, followed by spring. It leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out, with room for office and daily wear too. Most voters read it as masculine, though it stays unisex in spirit. Nagarmotha, Brazilian cabreuva, Paraguayan gaiac wood and Indonesian patchouli build a woody body. A spicy, resinous warmth sits on top, while sweet and creamy accords soften the edges. The earthy, smoky side gives the scent its dark tone. Yves Rocher Nouveau Genre and Diptyque Oud Palao have a close profile.

Black Tie for Men

6.2

Fragrance One · 2020

Citrus · Fruity · Sweet

Fragrance One Black Tie for Men is a men's scent that pairs bright citrus with spice, wood and a faintly smoky, leathery edge. It opens with Italian lemon, American orange and Brazilian mandarin orange, a fruity, sweet citrus layer. Paraguayan gaiac wood brings the woody, smoky side in the heart, and vetiver, cardamom and patchouli settle it onto a spicy, earthy base. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and lean towards evening and night-out wear. Voters mostly see it as masculine and classic. Montblanc Explorer Extreme and Zara Vibrant Leather (2018) have a close profile.

Ambraliquida

7.4

L'Erbolario

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

L'Erbolario Ambraliquida is a sweet, resinous woody oriental with a powdery, earthy side, worn by women and men alike. It opens with Bourbon geranium leaf and bergamot, a light, fresh start. The heart builds a woody, earthy body from sandalwood, patchouli, cedarwood and Paraguayan gaiac wood. The base of labdanum, styrax and vanilla brings out the sweetness and resin, while spicy and powdery tones sit over that warm foundation. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, though it also finds a place in leisure and daily wear. Voters split almost evenly between feminine and masculine.

The Architects Club

7.9

Arquiste · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Arquiste The Architects Club is a unisex scent that carries a fresh, citrusy start into spice, wood and a lightly sweet creaminess. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it is noticed up close without filling a room. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring and winter, with summer well behind. It is suggested about equally for leisure, daily wear, evenings and the office, and the feminine and masculine votes sit close together. The top notes of lavender, lemon, bitter orange and juniper berry open green and fresh. In the heart, pink pepper, coriander seed and nutmeg add spice while orris brings a powdery softness. The base rests on vetiver, cedarwood and oak wood, with vanilla absolute sweetening it slightly. Byredo Gypsy Water (Eau de Parfum) and Profumum Roma Audace have a close profile.

Island Lush

7.1

Goldfield & Banks · 2022

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Goldfield & Banks Island Lush is a sweet, spicy woody oriental with a leathery edge, offered as a unisex scent. Most voters recommend it for autumn, then spring and winter; summer is far less favoured. Evenings and nights out lead, and it also suits leisure time. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Voters lean towards masculine for its character, though some read it as feminine. It opens with ginger, nutmeg and pink pepper, brightened by bergamot. The heart of cedar, gaiac wood and geranium sets a woody ground. In the base, patchouli, oud, sandalwood and leather weigh most, with benzoin adding sweetness. Musicology Fly me to the Oud and Zimaya Oud Is Great have a close profile.

Aoud Lagoon

7.3

Montale · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Montale Aoud Lagoon is a unisex fragrance that sets a fresh opening of osmanthus and Sicilian mandarin orange against lotus, tiaré and oakmoss. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring and summer, with leisure, daily wear and business the most common settings. It is unisex, though voters read it as more feminine than masculine. It opens fresh, citrusy and aquatic, with mandarin and osmanthus bringing a floral, fruity sweetness. Lotus and tiaré add a creamy softness in the heart. Oakmoss, Haitian vetiver and Paraguayan gaiac wood give it a woody base. Jil Sander Sun Summer Edition 2020 and Jil Sander Sun Shake have a close profile.

Leather (Eau de Parfum)

7.9

Acqua di Parma · 2019

Citrus · Floral · Fruity

Eau de Parfum

Acqua di Parma Leather Eau de Parfum is a leathery, masculine-leaning scent suited to autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is chosen most for nights out and evenings, with leisure wear close behind. Its character is mostly seen as masculine and classic. Sicilian lemon, raspberry and Brazilian orange give a fresh, lightly fruity opening. The heart holds rose, honeysuckle, Paraguayan petigrain and red thyme, where the floral side is balanced by spice. The base of leather, Paraguayan gaiac wood and Atlas cedar settles into a woody, smoky footing.

Osiris

7.2

Sylvaine Delacourte · 2019

Citrus · Floral · Fruity

Sylvaine Delacourte Osiris is a unisex scent that pairs citrus and sweet florals with a spicy, creamy woodiness, and it sits most comfortably in spring and autumn. It opens bright and lightly spiced with La Réunion pink pepper and Italian clementine. In the heart, orange blossom and honey sweeten the scent and add a soft, fruity roundness. The base of American cedar, Paraguayan gaiac wood and French sesame dries down into a woody foundation softened by a creamy warmth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, autumn and summer, and it is chosen most for leisure and daily wear, with night and office use also getting votes. Voters lean towards calling it feminine, though modern and classic readings are common too. Xerjoff 400 and Louis Vuitton Stellar Times have a close profile.

Shermine

7.5

Pierre Guillaume · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Pierre Guillaume Shermine is a fresh, citrusy and powdery unisex scent built around cardamom, Argentinian lemon and iris, and it has been discontinued. Cardamom and Argentinian lemon give it a bright, spicy start. Iris adds a powdery, creamy softness, while rosewood, patchouli and vetiver lay down a woody base. Vanilla and musk sweeten it slightly, and lavender and pepper stay in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and spring, though it is worn in every season. Daily wear, leisure and business come up most often. Voters lean a little feminine, yet a fair share call it masculine.

Myrrh Casati

7.5

Maison Mona di Orio · 2014

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Maison Mona di Orio Myrrh Casati is a unisex scent built on myrrh and frankincense, spiced with saffron and cardamom into something woody and smoky; it has been discontinued. Myrrh, frankincense and benzoin lay down a resinous base, while saffron, cardamom and pink pepper add a spicy edge. Gaiac wood and patchouli bring a woody, earthy tone, and liquorice softens the dryness slightly. The whole stays dark and oriental from start to finish. Voters find the longevity good and the sillage moderate, so it sits fairly close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evenings and nights out lead the occasions. Masculine and feminine votes run close, so it reads as sitting between the two.

Celestial

6.9

Electimuss · 2020

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Electimuss Celestial is a sweet, spicy unisex scent in which raspberry, saffron and three different roses take the lead. It opens with raspberry, black pepper and saffron, pairing fruity freshness with a warm, spiced edge. In the heart, Turkish rose, Bulgarian rose and Indian rose absolute build the floral core, with frankincense and pink pepper adding a lightly resinous, sharper tone. The base rests on tonka bean sweetness over a woody floor of gaiac wood and cedar. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and evenings, leisure time and nights out are the occasions it leans towards. Voters mostly read it as feminine, though it is sold as unisex.

Philtre Ceylan

7.4

Atelier Cologne · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Atelier Cologne Philtre Ceylan is a fresh, green unisex scent that sets tea and citrus against spice and wood. The top is Calabrian bergamot, spearmint and Guatemala cardamom, so it opens crisp, citrusy and lightly spiced. In the heart, Ceylon tea and Chinese iris add a soft floral-green note, and Paraguayan gaiac wood and Indian papyrus leave a dry, woody base. Most voters pick spring, fall and summer, with winter far behind. It leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Votes split between masculine and feminine, so it sits comfortably on either side. Atelier Cologne Bois Blonds and Roger & Gallet Feuille de Thé / Thé Fantaisie have a close profile.

Fig Man

7.2

Carner · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Carner Fig Man is a fresh, green and citrusy unisex scent built around Italian bergamot, Indian cardamom and fig, best suited to spring and summer days. It opens with bergamot and cardamom for freshness, while fig adds a fruity sweetness. In the heart, violet, fig leaf and marine notes push it towards a green, aquatic feel. The base of Paraguayan gaiac wood, tonka bean and Indonesian patchouli gives it a woody footing, with the sweetness kept soft. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick summer and spring, and leisure, daily wear and the office lead the occasions. It leans masculine, though a good share of voters read it as feminine. Azzaro Chrome Azure and Rabanne Invictus (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

I Dream of Paris

7.2

Floraïku · 2021

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Floraïku I Dream of Paris is a unisex scent that opens on plum, blood orange and Turkish rose and settles into patchouli, vetiver and leathery notes, balancing its floral, fruity side with a woody, resinous base. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters lean towards fall and spring, with winter and summer not far behind, and it is chosen mostly for nights out, leisure time and evenings. Votes on character lean feminine, though a fair share call it masculine. The top opens sweet and fruity with plum, mandarin orange, apple and rose. In the heart, myrrh and Somalian frankincense add a resinous warmth, while geranium and davana pull the sweetness slightly towards green. The base of patchouli, vetiver and gaiac wood leaves a smoky, leathery trail.

Mauboussin pour Lui In Black

7.8

Mauboussin · 2014

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Mauboussin pour Lui In Black is a men's fragrance with a sweet, gourmand character, lifted by fresh and woody touches, and it leans towards evenings and the colder months. It opens with salted caramel, mint and Italian mandarin orange, the mint and citrus keeping the caramel from turning heavy. In the heart, black violet, French sage and Virginia cedar bring floral and spicy shades together with wood. The base of Indonesian patchouli, benzoin and Paraguayan gaiac wood settles into a powdery, creamy, resinous warmth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening is the most common occasion, though office and daily wear get votes too. It reads masculine and modern. Giorgio Armani Sensi and Memo Paris Quartier Latin have a close profile.

Rose Shot

7.3

Olfactive Studio · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Olfactive Studio Rose Shot is a fresh, citrusy rose that leans towards spring and everyday wear, and is described as unisex. It opens bright and peppery with Italian bergamot, Philippine elemi and Madagascan pink pepper. Turkish rose and white blossoms take over in the heart, with a green edge keeping it fresh. Atlas cedar, Paraguayan gaiac wood and tree moss form a woody base. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring, followed by fall and summer, and daily and leisure wear are the most common settings. More voters call it feminine, though it keeps a unisex feel. Cloon Keen Atelier Lá Bealtaine and Atelier Cologne Philtre Ceylan have a close profile.

Saudade - Amazonia

7.0

FiiLiT · 2018

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

FiiLiT Saudade - Amazonia is a unisex scent that sets fresh citrus and green notes against a lightly spicy, floral and woody base. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it leans towards leisure and daytime wear. In character it reads somewhere between masculine and feminine. The opening brings Brazilian orange, citrus fruits, green notes and chili, with spices and Paraguayan petigrain alongside. The heart turns to passion fruit, passion flower and cabreuva. In the base, Venezuelan tonka bean, Paraguayan gaiac wood and Peru balsam close it with a woody, powdery, resinous warmth. Lorenzo Villoresi Theseus and LM Parfums Vol d'Hirondelle have a close profile.

Just Black

7.7

Duftanker MGO Duftmanufaktur · 2017

Green · Fruity · Spicy

Duftanker MGO Duftmanufaktur Just Black is a green, smoky unisex scent that most voters place in fall and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. It opens with blackcurrant, galbanum and lemon, a green, fruity and sharp start, with mint and petitgrain lifting it. At the heart, gaiac wood with Indian and Thai oud builds a woody, earthy, smoky base. The drydown turns resinous and sweet through vanilla, Peru balsam and sandalwood, with carnation adding spice. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening, leisure and night out lead the occasions. It reads somewhat more masculine, though a sizeable share finds it feminine. Andrea Maack Coven and Tom Ford Noir Anthracite have a close profile.

Green Cedar (Eau de Parfum)

7.1

Abel · 2018

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Abel Green Cedar Eau de Parfum is a fresh, green unisex scent built around Indian cardamom, Atlas cedar and Texas cedar. It wears at a moderate strength, with moderate longevity and projection. Most voters pick spring and fall, and leisure, daily wear and the office come up most often. Votes for masculine and feminine are close, so it sits comfortably on either. The top opens with Indian and Guatemala cardamom and Chinese magnolia, a spicy, fresh start. In the heart, Paraguayan gaiac wood and nagarmotha add a woody, earthy footing. The base settles into Atlas cedar and Texas cedar, dry and resinous.

Monsieur Oud (Pure Parfum)

7.9

Ensar Oud

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Ensar Oud Monsieur Oud (Pure Parfum) is a unisex scent that sets oud, aloe and sandalwood beneath bright yuzu and bergamot, pairing citrus freshness with a resinous, woody base; it has been discontinued. Both its longevity and sillage are rated good, and most voters find its staying power high. It sits in a unisex register without leaning toward a masculine or feminine reading. It opens fresh and spicy with yuzu, bergamot and pink pepper, while fir balsam and petitgrain add a green edge. The heart brings floral softness from jasmine, iris and orange blossom, and the base dries down earthy and resinous on oud, aloe and sandalwood. Ensar Oud Monsieur Oud Attar and Etro Shaal Nur have a close profile.

Shaman

7.3

Anomalia · 2023

Spicy · Woody · Earthy

Anomalia Shaman is a unisex scent where leather and juniper meet a spicy, smoky, earthy woodiness. It opens with magnolia, water lily and Indian black pepper, so a soft floral note is cut by the pepper's sharpness. Leather and juniper lead the heart, and iris with Paraguayan gaiac wood settles the base into a woody, smoky ground. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring further behind. It is chosen most for evenings, leisure time and nights out. It reads closer to masculine, though it remains a unisex scent. Mannsbild Leather 'n' Wood and Chronotope English Shoe Factory have a close profile.

Musk Couture

8.0

Maksim Perfume · 2024

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Maksim Perfume Musk Couture is a unisex scent that weights a fruity sweetness with tobacco, oud and musk, giving it a woody, oriental character. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good; most voters score the longevity high, though the number of votes is small, so the picture is tentative. Its dense, sweet and spicy build suits cooler days and evenings, and it reads neither masculine nor feminine. The top opens with grass, Thai lychee, Roman chamomile and raspberry, a fruity, faintly green start. In the heart, nagarmotha, Turkish tobacco, Virginia tobacco and ylang-ylang come forward; the base of Indian oud, Bourbon vanilla, benzoin, oakmoss and Siberian musk settles into a creamy, resinous, animalic warmth.