The Perfume Library

31 Rue Cambon (Eau de Toilette)

8.2

Chanel · 2007

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon Eau de Toilette is a feminine fragrance that opens green, with bergamot and black pepper, moves into rose and iris, and settles on a chypre base of patchouli and cistus. Green notes, bergamot and black pepper give it a fresh, lightly spicy start. In the heart, rose, iris and ylang-ylang bring a soft, powdery floral quality. Patchouli and cistus anchor it in the base, adding a woody, chypre character. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters place it in spring and fall, for daytime and office wear, and many see it as feminine and classic. It has been discontinued.

Femme (1989) (Eau de Toilette)

8.0

Rochas · 1989

Floral · Fruity · Spicy

Rochas Femme is a floral, fruity chypre with spicy, powdery and leathery edges, a dark, mature scent made for women. It opens with bergamot and lemon brightness against soft apricot, plum and peach, with cinnamon adding spice. The heart is a floral body of jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang and iris, with clove keeping it warm. The base of patchouli, oakmoss, leather, vanilla and amber leaves a resinous, animalic depth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter and see it as an evening or night-out scent; summer is the least chosen season. It reads feminine and classic. Rochas Femme (2014) and Guy Laroche Clandestine share a close profile.

Danaë (Eau de Parfum)

8.0

Argos · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Argos Danaë Eau de Parfum is a unisex scent that sets bright citrus on a sweet, spicy, woody base, and it suits spring and autumn days best. It opens with bergamot and Sicilian lemon, giving a fresh, glossy citrus lift. In the heart, cedarwood, gaiac wood and cashmere wood build a woody backbone, with pink pepper adding a light spice. The base of Mysore sandalwood, patchouli, musk and cistus leaves a creamy, slightly sweet warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, though winter has a solid following, and it leans towards leisure and night-out wear. Most voters read it as masculine, yet it remains unisex. Montagne Parfums Eden and Xerjoff P.33 have a close profile.

L'Air de Rien

7.6

Miller Harris · 2006

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien is a warm oriental for women that darkens a sweet floral core with earthy, powdery and faintly animal tones. Longevity is rated strong and sillage moderate, so it stays on the skin for hours without filling the room. Most voters pick fall, with spring and winter following and summer last. Evening and leisure wear lead. Most voters find it feminine, though a sizeable share call it masculine. Neroli opens it, then oakmoss and patchouli bring an earthy, woody heart. In the base, amber, musk and vanilla take over: the sweetness softens into a powdery, resinous warmth, and the spicy accord keeps it from turning cloying. Jovoy Ambre Premier and Réminiscence Ambre (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

Rive Gauche pour Homme (2003) (Eau de Toilette)

8.3

Yves Saint Laurent · 2003

Fresh · Floral · Green

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche pour Homme is a green, spicy fougère led by star anise, lavender and vetiver, made for men and now discontinued. It opens fresh and herbal with star anise, rosemary and bergamot. Geranium, lavender and clove bring a floral, spicy heart. Vetiver, gaiac wood and patchouli settle the base into something woody, earthy and lightly powdery. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter close behind, and daily wear, business and leisure share the top spots equally. Most voters call it masculine and classic. Rive Gauche pour Homme (Eau de Toilette Intense) and The Dua Brand River Fougère have a close profile.

Dali pour Homme (Eau de Toilette)

8.0

Salvador Dali · 1987

Floral · Green · Spicy

Eau de Toilette

Salvador Dali Dali pour Homme Eau de Toilette is a classic-leaning men's fragrance that suits autumn and winter evenings. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters find it masculine and classic. It opens fresh and spicy with lemon, tarragon, lavender and bergamot. The heart of geranium, jasmine and moss is floral and green. The base of vanilla, vetiver, patchouli and amber leaves a warm, earthy, woody and resinous finish.

Hacivat X

7.5

Nishane · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Nishane Hacivat X is a fresh, fruity-sweet unisex scent where citrus and green notes sit over a smoky, earthy woody base. It opens with pink pepper, pineapple and bergamot, so spice, fruit and citrus arrive together. Jasmine, lime and orange blossom keep the heart fresh, while patchouli, Haitian vetiver and cedarwood settle it onto a woody, earthy base. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn close behind and winter well back. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, and also suits the office. Most voters find it masculine, though it reads as unisex. Nishane Hacivat and Creed Aventus have a close profile.

Slow Dance

7.3

Byredo · 2019

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Byredo Slow Dance is a sweet, resinous and powdery unisex scent built around opoponax, labdanum and vanilla, suited to fall and winter evenings. It opens on opoponax alone. In the heart, labdanum, geranium and violet come together, and the floral side rests on a resinous, spicy base. As it dries, patchouli and vanilla take over, turning the scent sweeter, creamier and woody. The fruity touch stays in the background. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and summer is rarely chosen. Evening, night out and leisure are the most common occasions. More voters call it feminine than masculine, though a fair share see it as masculine. Armani Privé Cuir Améthyste and Boucheron Fève Tonka de Canaima have a close profile.

1828

7.7

Histoires de Parfums · 1999

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Histoires de Parfums 1828 is a fresh, citrusy and green masculine scent led by Italian lemon, mandarin orange and vetiver. The top notes of Italian lemon, mandarin orange, grapefruit and eucalyptus open bright and cool. Nutmeg and black pepper add spice in the heart, while vetiver, frankincense and Atlas cedar set a woody base, with patchouli and Siberian pine cone keeping it green. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close without fading quickly. Most voters pick spring, fall and summer, and daily wear, office and leisure lead the occasions. Most votes call it masculine and classic. Welton Ryokucha and Hervé Gambs Jardin Privé have a close profile.

Kokain

6.5

Rammstein · 2019

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

Rammstein Kokain is a smoky, sweet and woody unisex scent built around charred wood, leather and patchouli; it has been discontinued. The top holds cocaine and heroin, and the heart moves to fuel and patchouli. Charred wood, leather and fire sit at the base. Floral, sweet and spicy accords run through it, and a synthetic edge and a powdery softness accompany the smoky, woody line. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, with winter close behind. It suits leisure and daily wear best, and it reads more masculine than feminine, though a fair number of voters call it feminine. Rammstein Kokain Intense and Pierre Guillaume Métal Hurlant have a close profile.

Kismet (2016)

8.3

Lubin · 2016

Citrus · Floral · Sweet

Lubin Kismet opens with bright citrus and settles into a sweet, powdery oriental floral for women, built around rose, resins and vanilla. Bergamot, petitgrain and lemon keep the opening light. In the heart, patchouli joins Bulgarian rose and Rosa centifolia absolute for a weightier floral core. The base of opoponax, labdanum and Bourbon vanilla turns resinous, creamy and sweet, with spicy and powdery touches running through the shift. Longevity and sillage are rated as good. Most voters pick autumn, winter and spring, with summer well behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, though daytime and leisure wear also have their place. Most voters read it as feminine and classic.

Experimentum Crucis

7.0

Etat Libre d'Orange · 2019

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Etat Libre d'Orange Experimentum Crucis is a unisex scent in which cumin, apple and lychee meet honey and jasmine absolute, a floral and fruity composition that pairs sweetness with spice. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring and winter, and it leans towards evenings, nights out and leisure time. Votes for feminine and masculine are close, so it sits comfortably on either side. It opens with cumin's spice alongside the fruity sweetness of apple and lychee. In the heart, jasmine absolute, honey and rose absolute add a soft floral layer. The base of Akigalawood®, musk and patchouli lays down a woody, earthy and slightly animal ground, while the synthetic accord gives it a modern edge.

Sundowner

7.7

Tauer Perfumes · 2021

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Tauer Perfumes Sundowner is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent with a clear gourmand side. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is rarely chosen for summer. It leans towards evenings and nights out. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters read it as masculine, though it works as unisex. Tobacco absolute, cypriol and patchouli build a woody, earthy and smoky base. Cinnamon adds spice, while vanilla, tonka bean and cocoa absolute sweeten it towards gourmand. Orange zest and bergamot lighten the density a little. Resinous and oriental accords give the whole a warm depth. Von Eusersdorff Classic Patchouli and Réminiscence L'Incroyable Patchouli have a close profile.

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle

7.6

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle · 2013

Citrus · Sweet · Gourmand

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle is a unisex scent that sets the spiced citrus of nutmeg, bergamot and saffron against warm vanilla and sandalwood; it has been discontinued. The top is nutmeg, bergamot, Calabrian lemon, saffron and carnation, so citrus and spice arrive together. The heart holds Mysore sandalwood, Egyptian jasmine absolute and patchouli, and the base of musk, Peru balsam and vanilla sweetens it. It reads gourmand, creamy and powdery, with a resinous, oriental warmth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, though spring is not far behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, but works for leisure and daytime too. Masculine and feminine votes are close, so it sits genuinely in between.

Hartley

8.4

Mazzolari · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Mazzolari Hartley is a unisex scent that pairs the brightness of bergamot and lemon with the aromatic lavender and rosemary, settling onto a woody base. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and fall, with summer close behind. Office, daily wear and evenings out all draw similar support. Voters mostly call its character masculine, though it is classed as unisex. Bergamot and lemon open fresh and citrusy. In the heart, lavender, rosemary and jasmine add a floral, spicy touch. Cedarwood, sandalwood and patchouli dry it down woody, powdery and slightly creamy-sweet. Parfums de Marly Darley and Casa del Perfume Canario Nubio have a close profile.

Messe de Minuit (Eau de Toilette)

7.3

Etro · 1994

Citrus · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Toilette

(untitled) l'eau

7.7

Maison Margiela · 2011

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Maison Margiela (untitled) l'eau is a fresh unisex scent that opens with spearmint, mandarin orange and lemon, then moves through galbanum and orange blossom absolute. The opening is bright and citrusy, with buchu and galbanum adding a green, lightly spicy edge. The heart carries galbanum, orange blossom absolute and mastic, and the base settles into a woody floor of serenolide, patchouli and frankincense. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it suits leisure, daily wear and the office. Voters split between calling it feminine and masculine, so it sits comfortably in between. Histoires de Parfums 1828 and Flora Danica 1761 have a close profile.

Van Py Rhum

8.2

Lorenzo Pazzaglia

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Lorenzo Pazzaglia Van Py Rhum is a sweet, gourmand unisex fragrance built around vanilla, rum and caramel, with patchouli and oud giving it a woody depth. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong, so it makes its presence known. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Votes for masculine and feminine are close, so it sits comfortably on either. It opens with several kinds of vanilla, rum and tonka bean together. Towards the heart, caramel and white blossoms soften the sweetness while patchouli adds an earthy note. In the base, Indonesian patchouli and oud stay alongside rum and vanilla, leaving a spicy, creamy, woody trail. Lorenzo Pazzaglia Van Exstasyx and French Avenue X Xandal have a close profile.

Belle d'Opium (Eau de Parfum)

7.1

Yves Saint Laurent · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Yves Saint Laurent Belle d'Opium Eau de Parfum is a sweet, oriental women's scent in which resinous and smoky tones deepen a floral and spicy base; it has been discontinued. Mandarin orange, white pepper and peach open fruity and spicy. In the heart, lily, gardenia and jasmine carry the floral side, while frankincense adds a resinous depth. In the base, sandalwood, patchouli and resins settle the scent into a powdery, woody, smoky sweetness. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most see it as feminine. Rasasi Roohy Tehebak and Nicolaï Sacrebleu have a close profile.

Larmes du Désert

7.8

Atelier des Ors · 2015

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Atelier des Ors Larmes du Désert is a sweet, spicy woody-oriental scent with resinous, earthy and slightly smoky tones, best suited to evenings in the cooler months. It lasts well and projects at a moderate level. Most voters pick autumn and winter, spring comes second and summer trails far behind. Evenings and nights out are the favoured occasions. It is unisex, though slightly more voters read it as masculine than feminine. It opens with cypress, gaiac wood and frankincense, which give a resinous, smoky start. In the heart, cedarwood, patchouli and benzoin build an earthy, sweet body. The base of labdanum, precious woods and amber leaves a warm, dense trail. Armani Privé Sable Nuit and Profumum Roma Patchouly have a close profile.

Pomegranate Noir (Cologne)

6.9

Jo Malone · 2005

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir is a unisex scent built around pomegranate juice, patchouli and pink pepper, with a fresh, floral and woody character. Most voters pick autumn and winter, though spring is not far behind. It leans towards leisure, evening and daily wear. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Votes split between feminine and masculine, so it sits comfortably on either. The notes read as one whole: the fruity sweetness of pomegranate juice is spiced by pink pepper, while Casablanca lily adds a soft floral touch. Patchouli and gaiac wood lay down a woody, slightly smoky base. The fresh accord keeps it from feeling heavy. Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir Limited Edition 2023 and Hermès Twilly d'Hermès Eau Poivrée have a close profile.

Bracken Woman

7.6

Amouage · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Green

Amouage Bracken Woman is a fresh, green and floral women's fragrance with a smoked-leather and spicy edge; it has been discontinued. It opens with wild berries and bracken, a cool green start. In the heart, narcissus, chamomile and lily bring a soft floral note while smoked leather adds a leathery shadow. Patchouli, vetiver and birch settle into an earthy, woody base. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn close behind. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, with some votes for business and evening. Most find it feminine, though a fair share read it as masculine.

Iris Ganache

8.0

Guerlain · 2007

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Guerlain Iris Ganache is a floral, gourmand unisex scent that opens with cinnamon, bergamot and white chocolate and deepens into iris and vanilla; it has been discontinued. At the start, cinnamon's spice is balanced by bergamot's freshness, while white chocolate adds a creamy sweetness. In the heart, patchouli, iris and cedar come forward, bringing an earthy, powdery feel. The base of vanilla, white musk and amber softens everything and closes warm and sweet. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters recommend autumn, winter and spring, with summer a small minority. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, though it also gets votes for daytime and office wear. Voters mostly read it as feminine, though it is classed as unisex.

Stash (Eau de Parfum Elixir)

7.4

Sarah Jessica Parker · 2016

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Sarah Jessica Parker Stash opens on sage, black pepper and grapefruit zest and runs down to patchouli, vetiver and frankincense: a sweet, spicy, woody unisex scent that has been discontinued. The opening is a dry, peppery sage lifted slightly by grapefruit zest. In the heart, pistachio adds a creamy softness while patchouli, Atlas cedar and kahili ginger build a woody, earthy base. The dry-down settles into vetiver, frankincense, musk and massoia wood, resinous, a little smoky and sweet. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with summer well behind. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, and since masculine and feminine votes are close, it reads somewhere in between. Lush Lord of Misrule and Aēsop Eidesis have a close profile.