The Perfume Library

Extravagance Russe

7.9

Diana Vreeland · 2014

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Diana Vreeland Extravagance Russe is a sweet, spicy women's fragrance suited to fall and winter evenings. Most voters pick fall and winter; evening and night out lead the occasions, though it also works for leisure time. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters mostly call it feminine, though a fair share see it as masculine. The scent as a whole rests on the warmth of amber and Bourbon vanilla. Resins and balsam add a resinous, woody depth, while musk softens it. The impression is sweet, gourmand and powdery, in an oriental mood. Hermès L'Ambre des Merveilles and Aerin Tangier Vanille share a close profile.

Orca

8.2

House of Matriarch · 2015

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

House of Matriarch Orca is a warm unisex scent that suits autumn and winter days, built on sweet, spicy and resinous accords. In Orca, amber, honey and resins form a sweet, dense base, while spikenard and choya nakh add an earthy, smoky edge. Clementine lightens the heavy picture a little. Woody and leathery accords stay in the background and the oriental character leads. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is favoured for evenings and nights out. Some voters read it as masculine, others as feminine. Amouage Interlude Man and Carner Cuirs have a close profile.

Swedish Leather

7.2

Pana Dora · 2024

Spicy · Woody · Animal

Pana Dora Swedish Leather is a spicy, smoky and leathery unisex scent with a heavy, woody character that suits autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out. Though unisex, most voters read it as masculine. Saffron, sage and frankincense lead the top, softened by ylang-ylang and osmanthus. The heart holds leather, resins and violet, with basil staying in the background. In the base, tobacco, oud and Virginia cedar settle it into a woody, animalic depth. Guerlain Cuir Intense and House of Orpheus Seraph have a close profile.

Atramental

7.0

Room 1015 · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Synthetic

Room 1015 Atramental is a spicy, smoky unisex scent that suits fall and winter, leisure days and evenings out; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, spring follows closely, and summer is chosen least. On character, the masculine reading leads. It opens fresh with bergamot, lemon and cistus, softened by aquatic notes. Black pepper and cardamom bring the spice in the heart. In the base, castoreum, resins and saffron add a woody, leathery, slightly animal warmth. Room 1015 Atramental x Sang Bleu and Montale Aoud Ever have a close profile.

Flor de Café

7.8

Annette Neuffer · 2014

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Annette Neuffer Flor de Café pairs coffee blossom and coffee absolute with tuberose and frangipani, sweetened by vanilla and cocoa into a floral, gourmand scent. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards leisure, evening and nights out. Most see it as feminine. It opens with grapefruit, bitter orange and clementine, with galbanum and Indian bay leaf adding a green edge. The heart is white florals, tuberose, frangipani, champaca and ylang-ylang, alongside the coffee notes. The base settles into Bourbon vanilla, cocoa, tonka bean and patchouli, and the woody, resinous warmth leaves it sweet and creamy.

Philtre

7.4

Hiram Green · 2024

Floral · Green · Sweet

Hiram Green Philtre is a unisex floral that leans towards autumn and winter, and suits leisure time as well as evenings and nights out. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, though spring is not far behind. Leisure, evening and night out are almost evenly split, while few choose it for the office. Voters read it as more feminine and classic, but a fair number call it masculine. Jasmine and rose lead a floral character, with green stems keeping it fresh. Carnation, clove and black pepper add a spicy warmth, while vanilla and resins sweeten it and push it in an oriental direction. Harry Lehmann Nelke and Les Voiles Dépliées Bayadère have a close profile.

Cuiron (2014)

8.0

Helmut Lang · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Spicy

Helmut Lang Cuiron is a fresh, spicy unisex scent that sets leather and suede against bright bergamot, mandarin orange and pink pepper; it has been discontinued. Cuiron has no top, heart and base to speak of: the notes read together as one. Bergamot and mandarin orange keep the citrus fresh, while pink pepper and cassia add spice. Leather and suede form a soft, leathery floor beneath them, and woods and resins bring a dry, slightly smoky depth. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring, and it leans towards daily wear, the office and leisure time. It reads more masculine than feminine, though it is classed as unisex. Zara Vibrant Leather Éclat de Bergamote and bdk Parfums Crème de Cuir have a close profile.

Casino Royale Nights (Extrait de Parfum)

7.9

The Dua Brand · 2018

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Extrait de Parfum

The Dua Brand Casino Royale Nights Extrait de Parfum is a sweet, spicy and floral unisex scent built around Moroccan bitter almond, saffron and cedar. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters suggest fall and winter, with spring not far behind and summer the least chosen. It leans towards leisure, evenings and nights out. Slightly more voters call it feminine, though a good share read it as masculine. As a whole it carries a gourmand, fruity sweetness; the bitter almond sets the tone while saffron adds a spicy warmth. Egyptian jasminum grandiflorum brings a soft floral note and cedar lays a woody base. Musk, resins and ambergris round out the depth. Its profile is close to The Dua Brand The Savage of Casino Royale and Scentiments Sugar Saffron Extrait.

26 Tenebrae

7.4

L'Artisan Parfumeur · 2016

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

L'Artisan Parfumeur 26 Tenebrae is a green, woody unisex scent built from plant juice, resins, cedarwood and Somalian frankincense. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Votes spread almost evenly across the seasons, with fall and spring slightly ahead, and the scent leans towards leisure and daily wear, with a place in the office too. Voters split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. Plant juice gives it a fresh, green, aquatic feel, while cedarwood adds a dry woodiness and the resins and frankincense bring a spicy, smoky warmth. The cool, green side outweighs the rest, with a faintly synthetic sheen. Comme des Garçons Wonderwood and Rito Oltre have a close profile.

Governors Island

7.7

Bond No. 9 · 2018

Fresh · Sweet · Synthetic

Bond No. 9 Governors Island is a fresh, sweet unisex scent built around frankincense, white cedarwood and honey, with a relaxed, everyday feel. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, though summer and winter are not far behind; leisure, daily wear and business are the most chosen settings. It leans slightly masculine in the votes, with a sizeable feminine share too. Resins and frankincense open it with a spicy, resinous, faintly smoky air. In the heart, white cedarwood brings the woody side while honey and ambrox sweeten and soften it. The base of white musk, vetiver and Muscenone® settles into a powdery, creamy finish.

Unspoken (Parfum)

7.8

Roja Parfums · 2007

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Roja Parfums Unspoken opens with aldehydes and bergamot, gathers ylang-ylang, neroli, jasmine and rose at its heart, and reads as a floral, spicy fragrance for women; it has been discontinued. The top is bright with aldehydes and bergamot. The heart is led by white flowers and rose, while the base of labdanum, vanilla, resins and ambergris sets a sweet, powdery, oriental foundation. Oakmoss and vetiver add a chypre note. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall, spring and winter, and night out and evening wear dominate. Most see it as feminine, with some calling it classic. Roja Parfums Enslaved and Emanuel Ungaro Senso have a close profile.

Boxeuses

7.5

Serge Lutens · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Boxeuses is a smoky, sweet and leathery unisex scent built around Russian leather, birch and resins. In Boxeuses, animalic notes and Russian leather form the backbone, while birch and resins add a smoky, woody weight. Plant juice softens that hard edge a little. The accords also include floral, fruity and sweet sides, so it reads as more than plain leather: spicy and gradually sweetening. Most voters pick fall and winter, rating the longevity as good and the sillage as moderate. It leans towards leisure, evenings and nights out. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it sits truly in between. Roja Parfums Qatar and Kemi Luna have a close profile.

Dilettante

7.3

Hiram Green · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Hiram Green Dilettante is a fresh, green citrus scent with a softly kept floral side, made for anyone; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, though it also works in fall. It leans towards leisure, evening and nights out; voters read it as somewhat more feminine, yet it stays unisex in feel. Petitgrain and orange build the fresh, green face of the scent, while orange blossom adds a creamy, floral softness. Resins leave a spicy, sweet warmth behind. Citrus dominates and the fruity sweetness stays in the background. L'Artisan Parfumeur Fleur d'Oranger and Le Labo Fleur d'Oranger 27 have a close profile.

Oud Balsam

8.1

Feel Oud · 2023

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Feel Oud Oud Balsam is a sweet, smoky unisex fragrance built around cumin, tobacco, Thai oud and resins. Spicy cumin and tobacco lean on the woody, resinous body of the oud. The accords add a sweet, gourmand and creamy softness, while the smoky, oriental side weighs heavier on top of it. The notes read as a single piece rather than in layers. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters recommend autumn and winter, and evenings and nights out lead the occasions, with spring and summer well behind. Voters mostly find it masculine and classic. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille and Serge Lutens Écrin de fumée have a close profile.

Silver Bond / Andy Warhol Silver Factory

7.8

Bond No. 9 · 2007

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

Bond No. 9 Silver Bond / Andy Warhol Silver Factory is a floral, sweet and smoky unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evening and leisure wear leading the occasions. More voters read it as masculine, though it stays unisex in character. Lavender, bergamot and grapefruit give it a fresh opening. In the heart, frankincense, violet, jasmine and iris add a firm floral core. Resins, amber and cedar settle into a sweet, woody, smoky base. John Galliano John Galliano (Eau de Parfum) and Dior Ambre Nuit (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Folie d'un Soir

7.6

Goutal · 2022

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Goutal Folie d'un Soir is a sweet, spicy floral-oriental for women that leans towards evenings and the cooler months of fall and winter. It opens with pink pepper and Turkish rose, then moves into a heart of frankincense, resins and myrrh that adds a smoky, resinous weight. The base of leather and cocoa settles the sweetness onto a woody, powdery ground with a leathery edge. Most voters pick fall and winter, and favour evening and night-out wear. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most see it as feminine, with a classic feel as well. Its profile is close to Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman and Parfums MDCI Cuir Garamante.

Deci Delà (Eau de Toilette)

7.3

Nina Ricci · 1994

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Toilette

Nina Ricci Deci Delà Eau de Toilette is a powdery, sweet fruity floral built on peach, apricot and raspberry with rose and jasmine; it has been discontinued. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most pick spring and fall, and lean towards daily wear and evenings. Most voters read it as feminine. It opens with the fruity sweetness of peach, apricot, raspberry and currant, softened by boronia and osmanthus. Rose, jasmine, freesia and sweet pea form the floral heart. Sandalwood, patchouli, resins and vanilla leave a chypre, woody and spicy base. Caron Lady Caron and Frédéric Haldimann Poésie have a close profile.

CerrutiSí (Eau de Toilette)

7.7

Cerruti · 2003

Fresh · Citrus · Fruity

Eau de Toilette

Cerruti CerrutiSí Eau de Toilette is a men's fragrance that joins a fresh, citrusy start to a sweet, spicy and powdery woodiness; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated moderate. Most voters read it as masculine, with some calling it classic or modern. Spring, summer and fall are recommended in nearly equal measure, while winter trails behind. It spreads across a wide range of occasions, from daily wear and business to leisure and evenings out. The top notes of mandarin orange and ginger give a bright, lightly spicy start. In the heart, geranium, rosemary, cedar and resins build a green, woody base. The base of patchouli, heliotrope, benzoin and oakmoss then sweetens it and settles into a powdery warmth.

Smoke

8.0

Goti Essenze · 2013

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Goti Essenze Smoke is a unisex scent built on frankincense, ebony and resins, with pomegranate and ginger adding a sweet, spicy edge to its smoky woods. Most voters pick fall, then winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Votes for masculine and feminine are close, so it reads comfortably on either side. The top pairs cedar with pomegranate: a dry woody firmness lifted by something fruity and sweet. Ginger in the heart brings spice. The base is where it settles, with frankincense, ebony and resins giving a resinous, smoky, oriental warmth. Parfums de Marly Habdan and Amouage Jubilation XXV Man have a close profile.

Fiamma

7.6

Moresque · 2016

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Moresque Fiamma is a sweet, spicy unisex scent that leans towards autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it is mostly worn for nights out and evenings. It does not lean clearly to one gender; votes for feminine and masculine are close. It opens with iris, cypress and juniper berry, a dry, slightly resinous start. Myrrh and patchouli form the heart, and the base settles into honey, vanilla, leather and amber. The overall impression is sweet, gourmand and creamy, with spicy, woody and earthy accords balancing the sweetness.

Himmel

7.4

KAA Cosmetics · 2024

Fresh · Sweet · Synthetic

KAA Cosmetics Himmel is a unisex scent that links a fresh opening of juniper berry, iris and cypress to the warmth of patchouli, resins and tonka bean. Juniper berry, iris and cypress come first, giving a fresh, powdery start. In the heart, patchouli, resins and tonka bean soften it. The base of leather, honey, musk, vanilla and amber settles into a sweet, creamy, woody ground, with a slightly synthetic edge. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it leans towards daily, office and leisure wear. Feminine and masculine votes are almost even, so it sits comfortably in between.

Tryst

7.1

Hiram Green · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Hiram Green Tryst is a unisex scent that leans towards spring and summer, suited to leisure and daily wear: a fresh, green, citrusy orange blossom. Green buds and orange zest give it a fresh, citrusy start, while neroli and orange blossom absolute carry the floral side. Resins add sweetness and a spicy touch over a softly creamy base. Longevity is moderate and sillage good. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall, with winter a distant choice. Feminine gets the largest share of character votes, though a fair number call it masculine. Dilettante and Nicolaï Fleur d'Oranger have a close profile.

Supernova in the Casino

8.6

The Dua Brand

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

The Dua Brand Supernova in the Casino is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, citrusy brightness against spicy, woody and oriental sweetness. Bergamot, grapefruit and lemon give it a bright citrus lift, while lavender, thyme and pink pepper add a spicy edge. Saffron, leather, vanilla and benzoin pull it towards something warm, resinous and sweet. Fruity and floral touches sit in between, and a slightly synthetic sheen runs through the accords. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Votes for spring, summer and autumn are almost level, so it isn't tied to one season. It leans towards leisure time and nights out, and voters tend to call it masculine and modern. Roja Parfums Elysium pour Homme and The Dua Brand Supernova have a close profile.

Golden Cattleya

7.2

Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes · 2010

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes Golden Cattleya is a sweet, creamy unisex scent that sets the warmth of honey and resins against a floral base. Pollen and honey lead the sweetness, while labdanum and resins add a spicy, slightly balsamic depth. Narcissus and orange blossom carry the floral side, orange brightens the mix, and cream soda and musk soften it into something powdery and gourmand. New Caledonian sandalwood stays in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall, spring and winter, with summer well behind. It leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out rather than office or daily wear. Half of voters read it as feminine. Zoologist Bee and J-Scent Cafe have a close profile.