The Perfume Library

Tobacco Vanille (Eau de Parfum)

8.3

Tom Ford · 2007

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille Eau de Parfum is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent that sets tobacco and vanilla beside cocoa and tonka bean. It has strong longevity and strong sillage. Most voters pick winter and fall, with spring well behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and far fewer choose it for the office or daily wear. Though unisex, voters read it as masculine more than anything else. Tobacco and vanilla lead, while cocoa and tonka bean soften them into a gourmand sweetness. Ginger adds spice, and dried fruits and resins bring a woody, oriental warmth. The overall impression is rich, sweet and lightly smoky. Lelas Noir Premier and Zara TOB/03 Tabac-Treasure have a close profile.

Halfeti

8.1

Penhaligon's · 2015

Floral · Green · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Penhaligon's Halfeti is a unisex fragrance with a warm, resinous character, where spice, oud and leather sit over a floral and green opening. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most voters read it as masculine, with some calling it classic. Mugwort, bergamot, green notes and grapefruit open it fresh. The heart brings cumin, cinnamon, saffron and cardamom, softened by violet and jasmine. The base settles into oud, leather, amber and vanilla, sweet, woody and resinous.

Fille en aiguilles

8.2

Serge Lutens · 2009

Green · Fruity · Sweet

Ébène Fumé (Eau de Parfum)

8.0

Tom Ford · 2021

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Tom Ford Ébène Fumé Eau de Parfum is a smoky, leathery unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evenings and nights out lead the occasions. It reads mostly masculine, followed by classic. Leather, cade juniper wood and gaiac wood stand out. Black pepper absolute and Palo Santo add a spicy, smoky edge, while resins, cistus absolute and ebony give a sweet, earthy depth. Rose and violet leaf soften the heavy texture slightly.

Tyrannosaurus Rex

7.2

Zoologist · 2018

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Zoologist Tyrannosaurus Rex opens with fir, black pepper and cade juniper, and reads as a floral, spicy and smoky scent. Its longevity and sillage are rated very strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads more masculine, though it is unisex. The top notes bring fir, black pepper, neroli and nutmeg. In the heart, jasmine, ylang-ylang and osmanthus form a floral layer. The base carries cade juniper, leather, frankincense and resins, with an animal, earthy edge. Bogue LiTA and Nimerè Shades of Darkness have a close profile.

Arabie

7.4

Serge Lutens · 2000

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Serge Lutens Arabie is a warm, sweet unisex scent led by sandalwood, benzoin and dried fig, with spice, resin and smoke woven through. It is rated strong for longevity and good for sillage. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it suits evenings and nights out best. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads as genuinely in between. The fruity, gourmand side comes from dried fig, date and candied mandarin peel, sharpened by cumin, nutmeg and clove into a spicy warmth. Underneath, sandalwood, cedar, tobacco, labdanum and myrrh form a woody, resinous, smoky base. The result is a sweet oriental with real weight.

Prada (2004) / Prada Amber

7.8

Prada · 2004

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Prada / Prada Amber is a resinous, powdery fragrance for women that opens with the brightness of mandarin orange and bergamot and turns sweet with vanilla and tonka bean. The top holds mimosa, mandarin orange, bitter orange and bergamot, while patchouli and rose lead the heart. The base brings tonka bean, sandalwood, labdanum, vanilla and resins. Floral and sweet accords dominate, with spicy, woody and earthy shades behind them. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. The majority reads it as feminine. Salvatore Ferragamo Terra Rossa and Dior Midnight Poison have a close profile.

Copal Azur

8.1

Aedes de Venustas · 2014

Fresh · Aquatic · Spicy

Aedes de Venustas Copal Azur is a unisex scent built around copal resin, amber and cardamom, with a fresh, aquatic and smoky side. It reads as a single, unbroken accord: copal resin and frankincense form a resinous frame, and myrrh adds a touch of smoke. Cardamom brings spice, while patchouli and tonka bean settle it onto a woody, softer base. Salt and ozone cool the resinous weight and give it a fresh, aquatic air. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Voters spread their picks across all four seasons, with autumn and spring slightly ahead, and lean towards evening, leisure and night-out wear. Most voters read it as masculine, though it stays unisex in character. Amouage Lineage and Gallivant Naples have a close profile.

Moth

7.6

Zoologist · 2018

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Zoologist Moth is a unisex scent that sets spicy, floral notes over a sweet, resinous and smoky base, and it suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with saffron, cumin, black pepper and clove for a spicy warmth. In the heart, jasmine, iris and heliotrope add a soft, powdery floral note. The base is led by oud, resins, honey and smoke, turning sweeter as it settles and leaving a faint animal trace. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, with little support for summer or the office. Votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine. Estēe Lauder Cinnabar and Caron Parfum Sacré have a close profile.

Civet

7.7

Zoologist · 2016

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Zoologist Civet is a unisex fragrance that suits fall and winter evenings, holding floral and animalic accords together. The top opens bright with lemon, bergamot and black pepper. Ylang-ylang, tuberose and linden blossom lead the heart. In the base, civet, Russian leather and oakmoss give it a leathery, woody, chypre character, while vanilla and labdanum sweeten it. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads comfortably either way. Charles of the Ritz Charles of the Ritz (Perfume) and DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline have a close profile.

Kokain Black Intense

7.7

Rammstein · 2021

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Rammstein Kokain Black Intense is a smoky, resinous and sweet unisex scent built around saffron, frankincense and myrrh; it has been discontinued. It opens with saffron, frankincense and myrrh, spicy and resinous from the start. The heart brings smoked tea, styrax and prunol, and the base of resins, Cuban tobacco and birch tar leaves a woody, leathery, smoky foundation. Sweetness softens that hard edge but keeps the oriental feel. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and lean towards evenings and nights out. Though unisex, nearly half of voters read it as masculine. Asdaaf Majd al Sultan and Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Desert Oud have a close profile.

Russian Oud II

8.4

Areej Le Doré · 2023

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Areej Le Doré Russian Oud II is a unisex scent that sets a spicy, smoky, resinous oud over a sweet, gourmand base, suited to the evenings of the colder months. It has been discontinued. The top holds deer musk and ambergris; in the heart Indian oud and cocoa take over, giving the scent a dark, sweet depth. Cedar and resins sit at the base, and the woody, animal and oriental accords round out its heavy, warm side. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and favour evening and night-out wear. It reads more masculine than feminine, though it stays unisex in spirit. Areej Le Doré Russian Oud Attar and Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Belle d'Opium (Eau de Parfum)

7.1

Yves Saint Laurent · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Yves Saint Laurent Belle d'Opium Eau de Parfum is a sweet, oriental women's scent in which resinous and smoky tones deepen a floral and spicy base; it has been discontinued. Mandarin orange, white pepper and peach open fruity and spicy. In the heart, lily, gardenia and jasmine carry the floral side, while frankincense adds a resinous depth. In the base, sandalwood, patchouli and resins settle the scent into a powdery, woody, smoky sweetness. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most see it as feminine. Rasasi Roohy Tehebak and Nicolaï Sacrebleu have a close profile.

Khôl de Bahreïn

7.8

Stéphane Humbert Lucas · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Khôl de Bahreïn is a unisex scent that pairs a floral, sweet and powdery character with the warmth of amber and resin, suited to autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring next and summer well behind. It is chosen most for evenings and nights out. Voters lean slightly towards calling it feminine, though a sizeable share read it as masculine. It opens with violet, resins and nougat, the nougat adding sweetness from the start. In the heart, amber, sandalwood and Florentine iris build a powdery, woody base. Musky and balsamic notes extend the warmth at the end. Jo Malone Violet & Amber Absolu and Dior Ambre Nuit (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Soleil Brûlant

6.7

Tom Ford · 2021

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Tom Ford Soleil Brûlant is a warm unisex scent that sets a sweet, floral heart against spice, smoke and resin. It opens bright with pink pepper, mandarin orange and bergamot. In the heart, black honey and orange blossom absolute turn it creamy and sweet. The base settles into amber, leather, frankincense and resins, a smoky, woody warmth kept in check by vetiver and woods. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, then winter, and lean towards evenings, leisure and nights out. Votes for masculine and feminine sit close together, so it doesn't lean firmly either way.

10 Aomassaï

7.5

Pierre Guillaume · 2006

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Pierre Guillaume 10 Aomassaï is a unisex scent for fall and winter evenings, where a sweet gourmand side is balanced by smoky woods. It opens with coffee, caramel and roasted hazelnut, giving a dense, almost scorched sweetness. In the heart, frankincense, tolu balm, bitter orange and liquorice pull that sweetness towards spicy, resinous ground. In the base, hay, wenge wood and resins settle it into a woody, smoky finish. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening, night out and leisure are the most named occasions. Feminine and masculine votes are almost level, so it reads as truly unisex. Lattafa Raghba Wood Intense and LPDO Hash Intense have a close profile.

Slowdive

7.7

Hiram Green · 2017

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Hiram Green Slowdive is a floral, sweet and resinous unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and see it for evenings, nights out and leisure time. Some find it feminine and others masculine, so it sits between the two. It opens with orange blossom and neroli. The heart brings tuberose, honey, beeswax, dried fruits and tobacco flower, and the floral side turns sweet, creamy and gourmand. Resins in the base leave a spicy, oriental trail. Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Absolu and Tauer Perfumes Vanilla Absolue have a close profile.

Colonia Assoluta

7.3

Acqua di Parma · 2003

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta is a fresh, green and powdery unisex scent that moves from bergamot and bitter orange to cedar, vetiver and jasmine. Its longevity and sillage are rated moderate, so it stays close to the skin with a light trail. Most voters pick summer and spring, and it suits daily wear, leisure and the office. More voters read it as masculine, though a fair number find it feminine. The top is bergamot, bitter orange and pimento: bright citrus with a slight spicy edge. In the heart, cedar and vetiver build a woody base while ylang-ylang and jasmine soften it with flowers. The base of resins, white musk, patchouli and oakmoss dries down powdery and faintly earthy.

Séville à l'Aube

7.4

L'Artisan Parfumeur · 2012

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

L'Artisan Parfumeur Séville à l'Aube is a fresh, floral women's fragrance built around lavender and orange blossom; it has been discontinued. It opens with lavender, petitgrain and aldehydes, giving a fresh, green, citrusy start. The heart carries orange blossom, jasmine and white blossoms, softened by benzoin and beeswax. Frankincense, amber and resins leave a sweet, powdery warmth at the base. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall, and it suits daytime, leisure and evening wear. Most voters read it as feminine. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia and Les Parfums de Rosine Rosa Flamenca have a close profile.

Impact

6.8

Tommy Hilfiger · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Fruity

Tommy Hilfiger Impact is a fresh, citrusy and fruity men's fragrance that leans towards daytime and leisure wear, mostly in spring and summer. Most voters place Impact in spring, summer and fall, with winter a distant fourth. Leisure, daily wear and the office come up most often. Its longevity and sillage are rated moderate, and most voters read it as masculine and modern. It opens with pink pepper, red apple and Italian bitter orange, bright and fruity. Elemi resin and clary sage bring a spicy, resinous touch in the middle. It dries down to cedarwood, sandalwood and musk, woody with a slight sweetness.

Louve

7.3

Serge Lutens · 2007

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Louve is a unisex scent where almond, vanilla and amber meet a sweet, gourmand, powdery floral core, and it suits autumn and winter evenings best. Most voters recommend Louve for winter and fall, and choose it for evenings and nights out. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Although it is unisex, more than half of voters read it as feminine. Almond leads at the top. In the heart, jasmine, rose and musk form a soft floral layer. In the base, vanilla, resins and amber sweeten and warm the scent. Fruity, spicy and woody tones stay in the background. Boadicea the Victorious Rouge Temptation and Bottega del Profumo Via del Corso, Roma have a close profile.

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar

8.4

Guerlain · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Guerlain Shalimar Ode à la Vanille - Sur la route de Madagascar is a sweet, gourmand women's fragrance suited to fall and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Most voters wear it in fall and winter, for evenings and nights out. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters find it feminine, and some see it as classic. The notes are spices, Bourbon vanilla and resins, read as one flowing whole. Vanilla leads, while the spices and resins add a warm, smoky depth. It has a sweet, floral and powdery oriental character. Guerlain Shalimar Ode à la Vanille and Tauerville Vanilla Flash have a close profile.

Moon Bloom

7.7

Hiram Green · 2013

Floral · Green · Sweet

Hiram Green Moon Bloom is a floral, creamy unisex scent built on ylang-ylang, jasmine absolute and tuberose absolute, softened with coconut. The flowers lead: ylang-ylang, jasmine and tuberose carry the scent from start to finish. Coconut adds a creamy sweetness, while leaves bring a green freshness. Tropical spices and resins sit underneath, giving it a slightly spicy, warm and faintly animal edge. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters lean towards spring and fall, and towards evening and night-out wear. Most voters read it as feminine, though it is marketed as unisex. Carnal Flower and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Tubéreuse have a close profile.

Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge

7.1

Bvlgari · 2005

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent that suits daily and leisure wear, mostly in spring, fall and summer; it has been discontinued. It opens with orange, bergamot and pink pepper, then moves into fig, rooibos tea and Yunnan tea. The base holds walnut, resins and musk. Fresh and citrus accords are rounded out by floral, fruity and sweet touches, and it dries down woody and powdery. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin. Most voters pick it for leisure, daily wear and the office, with evening and night out well behind. Voters lean feminine, though a good share call it masculine. Eisenberg I Am (Eau de Parfum) and Rochas Eau Sensuelle have a close profile.