The Perfume Library

Cowboy Grass

7.6

D.S. & Durga · 2008

Fresh · Green · Spicy

D.S. & Durga Cowboy Grass is a green, earthy and lightly smoky men's fragrance built around grass, vetiver and sagebrush. It opens fresh with bergamot, rosewood and wild thyme; in the heart, rose otto, sagebrush, basil and clary sage push that greenness in a spicy direction. Vetiver, ambergris, benzoin and grass form the base, settling into a woody, resinous warmth. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, with summer close behind and winter well back. It leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office, and most voters read it as masculine. Etro Vetiver and Le Labo Vetiver 46 have a close profile.

Calling all Angels

7.8

April Aromatics · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

April Aromatics Calling all Angels is a sweet, smoky unisex scent of amber, resin and honey that suits autumn and winter evenings best. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring a distant second. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and is worn in leisure hours too. Votes split between masculine and feminine, so it doesn't lean on either. The scent reads as one warm, resinous whole: amber, benzoin, labdanum and frankincense form the body, softened by honey and vanilla. Rose otto adds a floral note, while tonka bean and precious woods give a woody, faintly smoky warmth.

No. 88 (Cologne)

7.3

Czech & Speake · 1981

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Czech & Speake No. 88 is a unisex cologne where bergamot's brightness meets rose otto and vetiver, leaning fresh and green. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters suggest autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. It is picked mostly for evenings and nights out, though it also suits business and daily wear. Nearly half of voters read it as masculine, and its classic character stands out too. Citrusy bergamot opens it with freshness. In the heart, rose otto, sweet acacia, geranium and frangipani form a floral, slightly powdery frame. Vetiver and sandalwood settle into a woody, faintly spicy base with a chypre feel. Goutal Eau de Monsieur and Creed Cèdre Blanc have a close profile.

Fresh Laundry (Eau de Parfum)

6.4

Clean · 2005

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Parfum

Clean Fresh Laundry Eau de Parfum is a fresh, citrusy and lightly powdery floral that smells like clean laundry, and it suits easy daily wear. It opens with key lime, Brazilian orange and grass. Night-blooming jasmine and rose otto soften the heart, and musk with heliotrope leaves a powdery, clean finish. Aquatic and synthetic accords add to the airy feel. Longevity is moderate and sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin. Most voters pick spring and summer, for daily wear, leisure and the office. More call it feminine than masculine. Clean Warm Cotton and Philosophy Pure Grace have a close profile.

Chloë Sevigny - Little Flower

8.3

Régime des Fleurs · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny - Little Flower opens with blackcurrant bud, honey pomelo and peony, making a fresh, citrusy floral that suits women and easy daytime wear. Most voters pick spring and summer, with daily wear, leisure and business leading the occasions. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most read it as feminine, followed by modern. Blackcurrant bud and honey pomelo give the opening a green, fruity freshness, and peony carries it toward the floral side. In the heart, honeysuckle, rose otto, black tea and bleeding-heart flower build a sweet floral core. The base of Palo Santo, gaiac wood and musk settles into a soft, woody finish. Dior Me, Dior Me Not and Moschino Funny! have a close profile.

Two

7.0

Nejma · 2007

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Nejma Two is a unisex scent that sets a floral, sweet body against the warmth of spice and oud, and suits evenings and nights best. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with summer a small minority. Night outs and evenings lead the occasions. Votes lean feminine, with classic as the second character. It opens on ylang-ylang, white rose, clove and saffron, the spice settling warmly over the flowers. The heart puts rose forward through Rosa centifolia and rose otto. The base of musk, oud, sandalwood and Indonesian patchouli adds a woody, earthy, powdery foundation.

Natsumeku / 夏めく

7.9

Parfum Prissana · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Parfum Prissana Natsumeku / 夏めく is a unisex scent that sets the fresh citrus of tangerine, yuzu and bergamot against the woody air of hinoki wood and Palo Santo. The citrus notes lead: tangerine, yuzu, mandarin orange and bergamot give it a fruity brightness. Neroli and rose otto keep the floral side soft, while artemisia, lavender and camphor add a green, cool edge. Oakmoss and orris butter ground it in a woody, lightly powdery base. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick summer and spring, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Voters read it as more masculine than feminine, though a good number call it feminine. Hermès Eau de Cologne and Truefitt & Hill Mayfair have a close profile.

WAM

8.0

Mallo · 2023

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Mallo WAM is a unisex scent that sets tuberose and rose otto against the dark warmth of leather and labdanum; it has been discontinued. The floral side comes from tuberose and rose otto, but these are not soft flowers: leather, labdanum, castoreum and birch ground them in a smoky, animalic, resinous base. Vanilla adds sweetness that rounds off the harder edges, while woody and spicy tones stay in the background. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards leisure, evening and night out. It reads mostly masculine, though a fair share of voters call it feminine. Roja Parfums Musk Aoud and Histoires de Parfums 1740 have a close profile.

Make Someone Happy

8.0

Annette Neuffer · 2018

Citrus · Floral · Green

Annette Neuffer Make Someone Happy is a unisex scent that opens bright with citrus, green and floral notes and settles into a sweet, resinous, woody warmth. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter next, and see it as a leisure or evening perfume. It leans feminine in the votes, though a fair share call it masculine. Mandarin orange, bergamot and leaf green give it a sparkling start. In the heart, ylang-ylang, rose otto and orange blossom build a floral, sweet body. At the base, Bourbon vanilla, Siam benzoin and Hawaiian sandalwood soften it into a warm, spicy finish. Moroccan Amber and Vibrato have a close profile.

Kazimi

7.5

House of Matriarch · 2016

Floral · Green · Spicy

House of Matriarch Kazimi is a unisex scent that darkens rose with resin, oud and smoke, keeping floral and animal facets side by side; it suits autumn and winter evenings. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn, winter and spring, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also gets worn for leisure. Votes for masculine and feminine are close, so it reads open to either. It opens with white gingerlily, Bourbon rose and rose attar. The heart is led by wild rose, white rose, rose otto and Virginia cedar, with greenheart wood adding a green edge. The base of oud, opoponax, ambergris and oakmoss sets a smoky, earthy ground, while hyraceum and exotic spices deepen it towards the animal and spicy.

Aura (Eau de Parfum)

6.6

Loewe · 2013

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Eau de Parfum

Loewe Aura Eau de Parfum is a fresh, floral scent with fruity sweetness, a little spice and a faintly leathery woody base, and it has been discontinued. It opens with violet leaf, bergamot, red currant and pink pepper, which read fresh, lightly fruity and a touch spicy. The heart of narcissus absolute, jasmine sambac, rose otto and iris turns floral and powdery. In the base, cedar, raspberry, leather and sandalwood sweeten it while leaving a woody, leathery trail. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and daytime, office and leisure wear lean ahead of evening. About half of voters find it feminine. Delicious Closet Queen and Zara Vibrant Brown have a close profile.

No 50: Civet Cat Chypre (2020)

8.2

Meleg Perfumes · 2020

Citrus · Floral · Sweet

Meleg Perfumes No 50: Civet Cat Chypre is a unisex chypre that suits fall and spring evenings best, opening with citrus and settling into an animalic, woody base; it has been discontinued. It opens bright, with bergamot, orange and aldehydes. Rose otto, carrot seed and cedarwood bring a floral, woody heart. In the base, labdanum, Ethiopian civet, oakmoss absolute and orris root hold the chypre structure, and tonka bean absolute sweetens it a little, leaving a powdery, animalic finish. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it sits most comfortably in the evening or on a night out. Votes for feminine and masculine are close, so it reads more as a matter of style than of gender. Tableau de Parfums Miriam and Zoologist Nightingale have a close profile.

Four

7.1

Nejma · 2007

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Nejma Four is a feminine floral-fruity scent with a sweet, spicy, resinous depth, leaning towards evenings and the cooler months. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out, though business and daily wear also get votes. Most voters read it as feminine. It opens with Bourbon geranium, ylang-ylang, Italian bergamot and wild peach, a floral and fruity start. Narcissus, Egyptian jasmine and rose otto carry the floral side through the heart. Labdanum, oakmoss and oud dominate the base, and the scent dries down powdery, resinous and woody, in a chypre manner.

Blood of River Nile

7.8

Anomalous Parfum · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Anomalous Parfum Blood of River Nile opens on orange blossom, Afghan neroli and Italian mandarin, then deepens into rose, jasmine and oud, pairing fresh citrus with an oriental, woody warmth for men and women alike. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, though spring is not far behind, and it is chosen most for evenings and nights out. Masculine and feminine votes are close, so it reads comfortably on either side. The top notes of orange blossom, Afghan neroli and Italian mandarin give a bright, fresh start, with Kashmiri saffron adding a spicy edge. Turkish rose, jasmine sambac and civet form a floral heart. Oud, sandalwood, amber and castoreum close it with a woody, sweet and animalic warmth.

Oud Damascena

7.6

Katana · 2021

Citrus · Floral · Spicy

Katana Oud Damascena is a smoky, resinous woody-rose scent suited to autumn and winter evenings; it is unisex and has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong, so it stays on the skin for hours and carries well. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is favoured for evenings and nights out. It reads more masculine than feminine, though it is a unisex fragrance. Bengal oud and oud form the backbone, with smoke and smoky notes carrying it into a leathery, animal depth. Damask rose, rose otto and May rose soften that rough texture with a floral touch, while yuzu adds a thin citrus lift. Oakmoss and ambergris round it out with dryness and warmth.

Pink Wood

7.4

April Aromatics · 2017

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

April Aromatics Pink Wood is a unisex scent that sets rose otto and rose absolute against sandalwood, oak wood and oud, sitting between floral and woody. Its longevity and sillage are both rated as good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind, and it is chosen mostly for evenings, leisure time and nights out. Voters read it as somewhat more feminine, though a fair number call it masculine. Taken as a whole, it is a floral, fruity and sweet rose set on a woody base, warmed by spicy, resinous touches. Sandalwood and oak wood give it body, patchouli, cistus and labdanum add depth, and geranium supports the floral side. A faint animal edge stays behind the oud. Dior Oud Ispahan and Khalis Oud Malaki have a close profile.

Embers (2013)

8.4

Teone Reinthal Natural Perfume · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Teone Reinthal Natural Perfume Embers is a sweet, spicy and resinous unisex scent that suits cooler seasons, evenings and relaxed time off; it has been discontinued. The notes read as one whole: spices and herbs sit over a sweet base, while rose otto adds a soft floral touch. Benzoin, labdanum and Bourbon vanilla give it a resinous, creamy, powdery warmth, and Mysore sandalwood adds a woody depth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evening the most common occasion. Votes for feminine and masculine are close, so it reads as truly unisex.

No 39: Honey and Deermusk

7.9

Meleg Perfumes · 2020

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Meleg Perfumes No 39: Honey and Deermusk is a powdery chypre that sets spice, resin and an animal warmth against a sweet floral core, and it is classed as a women's fragrance. It opens fresh, with lavender, bergamot and clary sage. At the heart, ylang-ylang, rose otto and jasminum grandiflorum absolute build a floral base, while clove and cinnamon add a spicy heat. The base of vanilla absolute, benzoin, sandalwood and deer musk dries down sweet, resinous and slightly animal. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall, winter and spring, with summer a small minority. It leans towards evenings, nights out and leisure time; more voters call it feminine, though masculine and classic both get a fair share. Lancaster Lancaster and Meleg Perfumes No 7: Madeline Peach have a close profile.

Fleur de Oud

7.7

Katana · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Katana Fleur de Oud is a sweet, spicy unisex scent that sets bright citrus against the warmth of oud, leather and tobacco; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good, and most of those who rated its lasting power say it stays on the skin for a long time. It reads unisex, neither clearly masculine nor feminine. Lemon, green mandarin orange and jasmine give a fresh, floral opening. In the heart, Malayan and Thai oud, rose otto, leather and peach come forward, and the base of caramel, amber, tobacco and fruit chewing gum adds a sweet, resinous warmth. The animal and leathery tones balance the fresh citrus side.

Maruyama / 丸山

6.9

Parfum Prissana · 2019

Fresh · Floral · Green

Parfum Prissana Maruyama / 丸山 is a unisex scent built around lovage root, camphor and ambrette seed, with a green, woody and smoky feel. The notes read as a single whole rather than a top, heart and base sequence: a spicy, resinous ground with fresh, green tones above it. Chamomile and rose otto add a soft floral touch, while cedarwood and vetiver give it a woody, earthy backbone. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and fall, and leisure and evening wear lead. It sits between masculine and feminine. Dsquared² He Wood Rocky Mountain Wood and Comme des Garçons Monocle Scent One: Hinoki have a close profile.

Santal Segar

8.0

Katana · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Katana Santal Segar is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent built around May rose, rose otto and sandalwood; it has been discontinued. It opens with May rose, rose otto and summer flowers for a floral freshness. In the heart, yuzu and bergamot keep the citrus note going while vanilla and sandalwood soften it. The base of tonka bean, amber and vanilla leaves a sweet, creamy, slightly smoky warmth. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring, followed by fall and summer, and it is used mostly for leisure and daily wear. Feminine, classic and masculine votes sit close together, so it reads comfortably across genders. Duftanker MGO Duftmanufaktur Ambra et Fleurs and Acqua di Parma Zafferano have a close profile.

Tempted Muse

8.1

April Aromatics · 2015

Citrus · Floral · Green

April Aromatics Tempted Muse is a floral unisex scent built around ylang-ylang, jasmine absolute and tuberose absolute, with a sweet, gourmand side. Its longevity and sillage are rated as good. Most voters pick fall and spring, though summer and winter have their share, and it leans towards leisure and daily wear, with evening use close behind. Most voters read it as feminine. The white florals form the core: ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose and frangipani. Pink grapefruit and fruity notes add a citrusy, fruity lift. Vanilla absolute and tonka bean sweeten it, while sandalwood gives a woody, creamy base. A powdery, lightly spicy touch runs through it.

Ember

7.9

Strangers Parfumerie · 2017

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Strangers Parfumerie Ember is a unisex scent of amber, spice and smoke that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Most voters pick autumn and winter, spring comes a distant third, and very few choose summer. Leisure time, nights out and evenings lead the occasions. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, and masculine and feminine votes sit close together. A floral, sweet base carries a spicy, woody, resinous and smoky build. Amber, cinnamon, saffron and sandalwood bring the warmth, while leather, tar and animalic notes add edge. Rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang soften that weight with a floral touch. Roja Parfums Aoud Absolue Précieux and Lattafa Oud Mood have a close profile.

Love's Illusions III

7.7

Folkwinds · 2026

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Folkwinds Love's Illusions III is a unisex scent built around rose otto and iris, with American peppermint, black cherry and blueberry giving it a fresh, floral, fruity feel; it has been discontinued. It reads as one piece rather than a progression: rose otto and iris draw the floral frame, peppermint adds a green freshness, and black cherry with blueberry absolute carries the sweet, fruity side. Chewing gum absolute makes that sweetness a little playful, while musk and Thai oud add depth underneath. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, so it lasts through the day and carries a few steps beyond the skin. Being unisex, it suits men and women alike. Folkwinds Love's Illusion and Cloud Illusions share a close profile.