The Perfume Library

Chergui (Eau de Parfum)

8.1

Serge Lutens · 2001

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Serge Lutens Chergui Eau de Parfum is a sweet, smoky and spicy scent built on Russian leather, immortelle and hay, suited to fall and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and few choose summer. It is favoured most for evenings and nights out. It is unisex, reading slightly more masculine than feminine. Russian leather and hay give it a dry, leathery frame, while immortelle sweetens it. The sweet and gourmand accords lead, with spice, resin and a powdery woodiness alongside. As a whole it feels warm and oriental. Serge Lutens Toison d'Or - Chergui and Zara Bohemian Oud have a close profile.

Givenchy Gentleman (Eau de Toilette)

7.9

Givenchy · 1975

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Eau de Toilette

Givenchy Gentleman Eau de Toilette is a masculine, classic chypre that pairs a fresh, spicy opening with a leathery, smoky base. Tarragon and cinnamon open cool and spicy. In the heart, Haitian vetiver and Indonesian patchouli add an earthy, woody note, while Russian leather leaves a smoky, animal edge at the base. Floral and sweet touches soften it a little. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and works at the office too. Voters mostly call it masculine and classic.

Ambre Fétiche (Eau de Parfum)

7.8

Goutal · 2007

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Goutal Ambre Fétiche Eau de Parfum is a sweet, resinous and spicy unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and very few choose summer. Evening and night out are the favoured occasions. Voters split evenly between masculine and feminine, so it sits comfortably between the two. It opens with frankincense, labdanum and styrax, then moves into benzoin, iris and geranium. Patchouli, Russian leather and vanilla form the base. The sweetness is tempered by woody, powdery and smoky tones, with a leathery, animal warmth in the background.

Ambre Russe

7.9

Parfum d'Empire · 2005

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe is a sweet, spicy amber with a smoky, leathery weight, unisex and suited to cold-weather evenings. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and summer barely comes up. Evenings and nights out are the most common occasions. Votes for masculine and feminine sit close together, so it reads open to both. Cinnamon and coriander bring the spice, while frankincense adds a resinous depth. Cade juniper wood, birch wood and Russian leather draw a smoky, leathery frame, softened by musk and ambergris. Champagne, vodka and tea leave a gourmand edge inside the sweetness.

Venom Incarnat

8.0

Stéphane Humbert Lucas · 2022

Fruity · Sweet · Synthetic

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat is a unisex gourmand where strawberry, caramel and vanilla sweetness is sharpened by leather and spice. The opening is a dense, sweet fruit stack of woodland strawberry, strawberry, blackberry and caramel. In the heart, amber, cinnamon and raspberry bring spice to the sweetness, with Virginia cedar adding a woody frame. The base of vanilla, tonka bean and patchouli turns creamy and warm, while Russian leather adds a leathery weight. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, and it leans towards night out and evening wear more than the office. More voters call it feminine than masculine, though a fair share see it as masculine. Nez à Nez Ambre à Sade and The Dua Brand Incarnation of the Venom have a close profile.

Civet

7.7

Zoologist · 2016

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Zoologist Civet is a unisex fragrance that suits fall and winter evenings, holding floral and animalic accords together. The top opens bright with lemon, bergamot and black pepper. Ylang-ylang, tuberose and linden blossom lead the heart. In the base, civet, Russian leather and oakmoss give it a leathery, woody, chypre character, while vanilla and labdanum sweeten it. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads comfortably either way. Charles of the Ritz Charles of the Ritz (Perfume) and DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline have a close profile.

Soleil de Jeddah

7.9

Stéphane Humbert Lucas · 2013

Citrus · Floral · Fruity

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Soleil de Jeddah is a citrusy, floral unisex scent that sets the brightness of Italian lemon, osmanthus and chamomile against Florentine iris and Russian leather. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn, then spring and winter, and it is chosen most often for nights out and evenings. It sits evenly between masculine and feminine. Lemon, osmanthus and chamomile open with a fresh, fruity brightness. In the heart, amber, Florentine iris and earthy notes soften and deepen it. The base brings Florentine orris butter, Russian leather and Bourbon vanilla, settling into a sweet, resinous, leathery warmth. Stéphane Humbert Lucas Soleil de Jeddah Afterglow and Nishane Shem have a close profile.

Bogart (Eau de Toilette)

8.1

Jacques Bogart · 1975

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Eau de Toilette

Jacques Bogart Bogart Eau de Toilette is a fresh, woody fougère for men, where citrus and rosemary lead into birch, cedarwood and clove. The top notes of mandarin orange, orange, lemon blossom, rosemary and nutmeg give a fresh, green and lightly spicy start. In the heart, birch, cedarwood, juniper, Provençal lavender and Russian leather push the scent towards a woody, earthy, smoky side. Clove, musk and tree moss settle it onto a dry, resinous base. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and leisure, daily wear and business are the most named occasions. It reads masculine and classic. Montana Parfum d'Homme and Jaguar for Men have a close profile.

Cuirtis

8.5

Areej Le Doré · 2024

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Areej Le Doré Cuirtis is a leathery, animalic unisex scent led by American beaver tail oil, castoreum and Russian leather, best suited to fall and winter evenings. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. It reads closer to masculine and classic. It has been discontinued. It opens with beaver tail oil, Russian castoreum, osmanthus, cumin and juniper berry. The heart brings vanilla, rose, birch tar and iris, with the floral side kept under smoky, leathery accords. The base is dominated by Russian leather, Manipur oud, tar and oakmoss, drying down earthy and resinous. Rania J. Cuir Andalou and Areej Le Doré Royal Barn have a close profile.

Cuir Blanc

7.6

Evody · 2010

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Evody Cuir Blanc is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, floral side with a powdery, sweet leather; it has been discontinued. It opens with the cool green of violet leaf. In the heart, amber and iris soften it and turn it powdery. The base holds Russian leather and white musk, and the scent dries down spicy, woody and slightly synthetic in a leathery way. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter third. Evening, night out, daily, leisure and business all draw similar shares. Votes lean feminine, though a good number call it masculine. Juliette Has A Gun Metal Chypré and Prada L'Homme Intense have a close profile.

Dark Rebel Rider

7.8

John Varvatos · 2016

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

John Varvatos Dark Rebel Rider pairs bitter orange, saffron and patchouli in a leathery, sweet and spicy scent that suits cool-weather evenings, and it reads as a men's fragrance. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring after them. It leans towards evening and night-out wear, with some leisure use too. Longevity and sillage are moderate. It reads masculine and classic. It has been discontinued. It opens sharp and spicy with bitter orange, saffron and citron. In the heart, black violet, osmanthus and labdanum add a softer, powdery and resinous layer. The base of patchouli, Russian leather, cocoa and vanilla dries down sweet, earthy and smoky. Juicy Couture Dirty English and G Parfums Young Hunter have a close profile.

Luna

7.6

Kemi · 2014

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Kemi Luna is a floral, fruity unisex scent that opens on blackcurrant, mandarin orange and spicy notes and settles into bourbon vanilla and amber; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring further behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out. Votes split between feminine and masculine, so it pulls both ways. The top pairs the fruity brightness of blackcurrant, mandarin orange, apple and mango with spicy notes. In the heart, rose, jasmine and iris form a floral base, while cedarwood and Russian leather add a dry, smoky, leathery edge. The base of bourbon vanilla, musk and amber sweetens and warms it. Perfumes with a close profile include Parfums de Marly Godolphin and Guerlain Santal Royal.

Avant-Garde / Avant Garde

7.3

M. Micallef · 2006

Fresh · Citrus · Sweet

M. Micallef Avant-Garde is a unisex scent that sets the brightness of bergamot and grapefruit against the warm, smoky tones of cocoa bean, tobacco and Russian leather. It opens fresh and sharp with bergamot, citrus fruits and grapefruit. In the heart, frankincense, cocoa bean and tobacco turn it sweeter, with a resinous, spicy edge. The base of Russian leather, ambergris and tonka bean leaves a woody, leathery, slightly smoky warmth. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter, and it suits leisure, evening and work settings alike. Most voters read it as masculine, though a fair number find it feminine. Serge Lutens Five o'clock au gingembre and Nishane A Date with Oud have a close profile.

Marbert Woman

7.4

Marbert · 1987

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Marbert Woman is a floral, sweet chypre that leans towards autumn and winter and suits evenings and nights out; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, favour evening and night-out wear, and also see room for office and daily use. Most voters read it as feminine, with some calling it classic. It opens with bergamot, lemon, fruity and green notes and rosewood. In the heart, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine and iris build a floral core, while patchouli and sandalwood give it a woody footing. The base of vanilla, benzoin, moss and Russian leather dries down sweet, powdery, smoky and animalic.

Nùr Eau Fine (Eau de Parfum)

7.8

soOud · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

soOud Nùr Eau Fine Eau de Parfum pairs chamomile, cedar and Russian leather in a powdery scent that balances floral and leathery sides, made for women. Chamomile and lemon give it a light, fresh start, while apricot adds a fruity sweetness. Russian leather and cedar settle that sweetness onto a woody, smoky base, and Bourbon vanilla brings a powdery, resinous softness. Voters find the longevity strong and the sillage good. Most pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most voters read it as feminine. Jacques Zolty Sparkling Sand and Kemi Luna have a close profile.

SM Café

7.7

Strangers Parfumerie · 2019

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Strangers Parfumerie SM Café is a sweet, gourmand and smoky unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening, leisure and night out lead the occasions. Voters lean towards calling it masculine, though it reads as unisex. Coffee absolute, cherry and tonka bean carry the sweetness, while benzoin and amber turn it resinous and warm. Russian leather, suede and tobacco add a leathery, smoky side, and patchouli with Atlas cedar gives it a woody, earthy base.

Violettes du Czar (2014)

7.5

Oriza L. Legrand · 2014

Fresh · Floral · Green

Oriza L. Legrand Violettes du Czar (2014) is a fresh, powdery unisex scent built around violet leaf, French violet and Florentine iris. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin without crowding the room. Most voters pick spring and summer, with fall close behind. Daily wear, leisure and business come out evenly. Most voters read it as feminine, though a fair share call it masculine. It opens green and fresh with violet leaf and hooded violet. The heart turns floral and powdery with heliotrope, French violet and Florentine iris. Tolu balm, Russian leather, gaiac wood and amber give the base a woody, leathery depth with a faint spicy edge. Balenciaga L'Essence and Evody Cuir Blanc have a close profile.

Next to Me / Dubai Next to Me

7.8

Ramón Monegal · 2014

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Ramón Monegal Next to Me / Dubai Next to Me is a sweet, spicy oriental with a dark character, woody, resinous and faintly smoky, and it works for anyone, men and women alike. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, though summer and spring still get a fair share. It is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out. Votes for masculine and feminine run close, so it doesn't lean on either side. Spanish saffron, black pepper and nutmeg set the spicy tone. Sandalwood, Indian oud, Russian leather and Somalian frankincense build a woody, leathery and resinous base. Plum, coconut and tonka bean add sweetness and a creamy softness, while Turkish rose and bergamot lighten the dark texture. The floral and fruity sides stay in the background.

Violette Volynka

7.7

Hermès · 2022

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Antiquity II (Extrait de Parfum)

8.2

Areej Le Doré · 2025

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Extrait de Parfum

Boxeuses

7.5

Serge Lutens · 2010

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Boxeuses is a smoky, sweet and leathery unisex scent built around Russian leather, birch and resins. In Boxeuses, animalic notes and Russian leather form the backbone, while birch and resins add a smoky, woody weight. Plant juice softens that hard edge a little. The accords also include floral, fruity and sweet sides, so it reads as more than plain leather: spicy and gradually sweetening. Most voters pick fall and winter, rating the longevity as good and the sillage as moderate. It leans towards leisure, evenings and nights out. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it sits truly in between. Roja Parfums Qatar and Kemi Luna have a close profile.

Antiquity

8.5

Areej Le Doré · 2019

Floral · Fruity · Spicy

Areej Le Doré Antiquity is a leathery, smoky and earthy unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out leading the occasions. It leans masculine, though a good share of voters call it feminine. It has been discontinued. Bergamot and peach aldehyde open lightly, then the heart darkens with angelica root, Cambodian oud, carnation and patchouli. The base is led by Indian oakmoss, Russian leather and amber, with floral, fruity and spicy touches resting on a chypre, animalic ground.

Ambre à Sade

7.1

Nez à Nez · 2009

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Nez à Nez Ambre à Sade is a feminine scent that sets a fruity, gourmand sweetness against spice, wood and leather; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, with leisure and daily wear following. Most voters read it as feminine. The top is blackberry, caramel, strawberry and woodland strawberry. In the heart, cinnamon tree, Virginia cedar and raspberry add spice and wood to the sweetness. The base of Russian leather, vanilla, tonka bean and patchouli settles warm and leathery. Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat and French Avenue Veneno Scarlet have a close profile.

Taiga

8.2

Pryn Parfum · 2016

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Pryn Parfum Taiga is a fresh, green and smoky unisex scent that recalls a pine forest; it has been discontinued. Taiga's longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Voters lean towards fall and spring, with winter and summer further behind. It is picked most for leisure time and evenings, and masculine and feminine votes sit almost level, so it reads comfortably on anyone. Pine, cypress absolute and birch leaf give it a green, resinous woodland feel. Patchouli and cedarwood set an earthy, woody ground, while Russian leather adds a smoky edge. Benzoin, frankincense absolute, myrrh and elemi resin pull the whole scent towards a spicy, warm resin tone.