The Perfume Library

Series 7: Sweet - Nomad Tea

7.4

Comme des Garçons · 2005

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Comme des Garçons Series 7: Sweet - Nomad Tea is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, green tea character against a lightly sweet, smoky base. The top notes of artemisia and corn mint open cool and herbal. In the heart, green tea and geranium leaf carry the greenery forward. The base of sugar, smoky notes and woody notes softens it; the gourmand and spicy sides stay in the background, and the sweetness never takes over. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Voters link it most with spring, fall and summer, and it leans towards leisure and daily wear, though a fair share also see it working at the office. Masculine and feminine votes come out level. Perfumes with a close profile include Saint d'Ici Une Mandarine pour Mon Homme and Keiko Mecheri Paname.

Oud Damascena

7.6

Katana · 2021

Citrus · Floral · Spicy

Katana Oud Damascena is a smoky, resinous woody-rose scent suited to autumn and winter evenings; it is unisex and has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong, so it stays on the skin for hours and carries well. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is favoured for evenings and nights out. It reads more masculine than feminine, though it is a unisex fragrance. Bengal oud and oud form the backbone, with smoke and smoky notes carrying it into a leathery, animal depth. Damask rose, rose otto and May rose soften that rough texture with a floral touch, while yuzu adds a thin citrus lift. Oakmoss and ambergris round it out with dryness and warmth.

Trojan Horse

7.7

Nuhi

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Nuhi Trojan Horse is a unisex fragrance that opens on plum, violet leaf and saffron, moves into rose and jasmine, and settles on vanilla, frankincense oil and smoky notes; it has been discontinued. The opening pairs the fruity sweetness of plum and blackcurrant with cinnamon, coriander and pink pepper. In the heart, rose and jasmine form a floral veil, softened by magnolia and ylang-ylang. The base turns to vanilla, resins and smoky notes, with sandalwood and patchouli adding a woody depth. Voters rate both its longevity and its sillage as very strong, so a light hand is enough. The sweet, spicy, smoky build suits cooler air better. It sits comfortably on men and women alike and has a dense, resinous character. Filippo Sorcinelli Art and Sharing - Lux Visionaria and Bohoboco Yellow Rose Incense have a close profile.

Roohy Tehebak

7.4

Rasasi · 2011

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Rasasi Roohy Tehebak is a women's perfume that moves from a floral, fruity opening into a sweet, spicy and smoky base. The top notes of lily, gardenia, mandarin orange and orange give a bright floral-citrus start. In the heart, peach meets labdanum and frankincense, with pepper adding spice. The base of sandalwood, amber, patchouli and smoky notes turns it woody, resinous and oriental. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, and leisure, night out and evening are the occasions it leans towards. Most voters find it feminine.

Abjar Bois

8.3

The Spirit of Dubai · 2024

Green · Spicy · Woody

The Spirit of Dubai Abjar Bois is a unisex scent that opens green, spicy and woody, then deepens into resinous and smoky tones. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Voters place it mostly in leisure time, nights out and evenings, with a smaller share choosing it for business and daily wear. It reads equally well on men and women. It starts with ginger, bergamot and thyme, a fresh, spicy entry. Iris, leather and smoky notes sit in the heart. Vetiver, oud and sandalwood form a woody, resinous base. Amouage Epic Man and Penhaligon's Halfeti have a close profile.

Sandalwood Neroli

6.7

Bohoboco · 2016

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Bohoboco Sandalwood Neroli is a fresh, woody unisex scent that most voters place in spring and summer, for leisure time and the office. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin. Voters split between masculine and feminine, lean towards spring and fall, and give winter the smallest share. Bergamot and neroli open it with a bright citrus freshness, with sandalwood already present from the start. In the heart, jasmine and smoky notes add a soft floral touch with a faint haze. The base of sandalwood, musk and cedarwood settles into a creamy, calm woodiness. Zara Fresh Sandalwood and Acqua delle Langhe Alba (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

cruising-area

7.5

Filippo Sorcinelli · 2021

Spicy · Woody · Resinous

Filippo Sorcinelli cruising-area is a spicy, woody and smoky unisex scent that suits evenings, nights out and the cooler months. Voters rate both its longevity and its sillage as good. Autumn, winter and spring lead the season votes, while summer trails well behind. Evening, leisure and night out are the favoured occasions, and daytime is rarely picked. Its dark, heavy character reads comfortably on anyone. It opens with clove, spices and smoky notes. Black pepper, vetiver, amyris and patchouli form a spicy, earthy heart. The base settles into cedarwood, gurjum balsam, gaiac wood and copaiba balsam, resinous and woody. Heeley Eau Sacrée and Mark Buxton Perfumes Free have a close profile.

The Bee's Knees (Perfume)

6.7

Lush · 2024

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Lush The Bee's Knees is a sweet, smoky unisex scent built around osmanthus and honey. Osmanthus, honey and neroli form the bright, floral side, with petitgrain and orange blossom lifting it slightly. Against them sit tobacco, hay, smoky notes and earthy notes, while the sensual skin accord leaves a warm, animalic trace. The overall impression is sweet, spicy and woody. Voters rate both longevity and sillage as good. Most pick fall and winter, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. Feminine and masculine votes are close, so it sits comfortably on either side. Gritti Noctem Arabs and Tom Ford Tobacco Oud have a close profile.

Post Hume

7.1

Son Venïn · 2019

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Son Venïn Post Hume is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent built around cinnamon, tobacco and clove. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Masculine and feminine readings are close, so it sits between the two. Cinnamon opens with a warm spice, with tobacco and clove in the heart. In the base, vanilla and tonka bean sweeten it, while vetiver, leather and smoky notes add a dark woody, earthy and resinous depth.

Aeon 001

7.4

Aeon Perfume · 2015

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Aeon Perfume Aeon 001 is a unisex scent that sets spices, white blossoms and resins against smoky notes, deepened by earthy vetiver; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring a distant third and summer rarely chosen. It leans towards evenings, nights out and leisure time. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, with a classic feel as well. As a whole it reads woody, oriental and resinous, with a floral and spicy edge. The white blossoms are roughened by spices, while smoky notes and vetiver add an earthy, animalic warmth. Guerlain Shalimar Ode à la Vanille and Xerjoff Zafar have a close profile.

Sir Agarwood (Extrait de Parfum)

7.2

The Misk Company · 2023

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Extrait de Parfum

The Misk Company Sir Agarwood Extrait de Parfum sets Cambodian oud, labdanum and frankincense in a sweet, smoky oriental frame, and suits anyone as a unisex scent. The top shows smoky notes, green apple and caramel, the apple's crispness softened by the caramel's sweetness. In the heart, oriental spices, suede, tobacco and red rose come forward. The base settles into castoreum, exotic woods and oud, giving a resinous, leathery, woody finish. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind. It is chosen mostly for evenings, nights out and leisure time, and rarely for the office. Ard Al Zaafaran Midnight Oud and Amouage Purpose 50 have a close profile.

Pink Blood

6.7

Wacken · 2024

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

Wacken Pink Blood is a sweet, smoky perfume for women that sets spice, smoke and wood around a floral heart. It opens with myrrh, orange blossom, cypress and cardamom, a spicy, resinous start. In the heart, lily of the valley and jasmine carry the floral side, while frankincense and smoky notes darken it. The base of cedarwood, musk and amber builds a sweet, woody foundation, with a synthetic edge among its accords. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and leisure and evening wear come up most often. Voters mostly see it as feminine, then modern. Widian Black I and AllSaints Incense City have a close profile.

Parfum d'Homme

7.4

Adlon · 2024

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Adlon Parfum d'Homme is a sweet, spicy and smoky men's scent that wraps oud and leather in resinous warmth for a dense evening character. It opens with bergamot, black tea and saffron, where the dryness of the tea and the spice of the saffron quickly firm up the bergamot's freshness. The heart brings oud, smoky notes and leather, and the base of myrrh, cypriol, musk and amber softens this dark core with a sweet, resinous warmth. The overall impression is woody, earthy and slightly animalic. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions. Most see it as masculine and classic. Neil Morris Fragrances Fetish and Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Desert Oud have a close profile.

Abaci II

8.3

Abaci

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Abaci Abaci II is a men's fragrance that sets a spicy opening of rum, pink pepper and cardamom over a resinous, smoky, leathery base. The top leans on rum, pink pepper, ginger and cardamom, while jasmine, rose and cinnamon in the heart pull that spice towards a floral, sweet side. The base is dominated by frankincense, patchouli, vanilla absolute and leathery notes, which give it its woody, earthy and smoky character. Most voters find the longevity strong and the sillage good. It is placed mostly in autumn and winter, and in evening and night-out wear. It reads masculine and classic. Estēe Lauder Amber Mystique and Paris Corner Mysterium have a close profile.

Mabda

7.6

Azya · 2024

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Azya Mabda opens with raspberry, bergamot and pink pepper and settles into vanilla and black musk, a sweet, smoky unisex scent. Mabda's longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind and summer rarely chosen. It gets the most votes for nights out and evenings, and it also works for leisure time. Slightly more voters call it feminine, though many find it masculine. The top pairs fruity raspberry and bergamot with pink pepper and smoky notes. In the heart, rose absolute, ylang-ylang and geranium build a floral base, while black pepper and amber add spicy warmth. The base carries vanilla, tonka bean and benzoin sweetness, with frankincense and cedarwood adding a resinous, woody depth. Floriental and Nobile 1942 Malvs have a close profile.

Biassanòt

6.5

Gritti · 2024

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Gritti Biassanòt is a smoky, leathery and woody unisex scent, with sweet and powdery tones softening its dark character. Vetiver, hay and coffee open on a dry, slightly earthy note. In the heart, leather, night-blooming jasmine and smoky notes come forward, with the floral side taking the edge off the leather. The base of musk, tobacco and oud settles into a spicy, oriental warmth. Voters find the longevity good and the sillage moderate. Its dark, smoky build suits cooler weather and evenings, and it leans neither masculine nor feminine. Adam Bensahili Telekinesis and Mystikum Tears on Mystic Sands have a close profile.

Panther Fangs

7.5

Calaj · 2022

Citrus · Floral · Sweet

Calaj Panther Fangs is a unisex scent that sets a bright citrus start against a sweet, smoky and animalic base. Grapefruit and bergamot open with a sharp citrus lift in the top. In the heart, buchu, jasminum grandiflorum and ambrette add a soft floral layer. The base sweetens with amber, tonka bean and vanilla, while smoky notes, ambergris and civet give it a creamy, animalic depth. Voters find both its longevity and its sillage strong, though the number of votes is small. As a unisex scent it can be worn as masculine or feminine. Grauton Parfums Opalgrau and Katana Santal Segar have a close profile.

Gasoleather

7.9

Lorenzo Pazzaglia · 2024

Green · Fruity · Synthetic

Lorenzo Pazzaglia Gasoleather is a unisex perfume built around leather and smoke, with synthetic notes like fuel and plastic pushing it away from the usual. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong, and most voters score them high. It reads neither masculine nor feminine, and suits someone who wants a bold, distinctive scent. Green, fruity and synthetic accords meet a spicy, woody and resinous base. The top holds plastic, metallic notes, fuel, raspberry and bergamot. Tuscan leather, oakmoss and cypriol sit in the heart, while leather, oud, patchouli and cedarwood dominate the base. The earthy, smoky character settles into a hard, leathery finish.

Atma

5.7

Sikelia - Acque di Sicilia · 2021

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

Sikelia - Acque di Sicilia Atma is a smoky, earthy unisex scent built around black pepper, vetiver and cedarwood. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good, and close to half of voters find the sillage high. It can be worn by anyone, though its dry, severe character may sit far from those who like soft, warm fragrances. It opens with smoky and metallic notes alongside black pepper, a sharp and dry start. At the heart, cedarwood, vetiver and frankincense form a woody core. The base brings vetiver, roots, soil and amber, and the scent stays spicy and synthetic-edged, close to damp earth.

Suscepto

7.6

Spiritica · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Spiritica Suscepto is a unisex fragrance that sets a fresh, aquatic character against a sweet, resinous base. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good, though the number of votes is small, so that picture is tentative. Voters lean mostly towards daily wear, followed by leisure and the office, with sport and evening use not far behind. It sits comfortably between masculine and feminine. The opening is cool, with sea breeze, eucalyptus and bergamot, sharpened by peppermint. In the heart, damask rose, frankincense and benzoin appear, while metallic and smoky notes give that floral, resinous centre a synthetic edge. The base turns sweet and soft with Indonesian vanilla, honey and sandalwood.

Oracle

7.1

Extra Virgo · 2023

Citrus · Green · Spicy

Extra Virgo Oracle is a unisex fragrance where mandarin orange, Italian lemon and juniper berry sit on a green, smoky base. Those who have tried Oracle find both its longevity and its sillage good, though the number of ratings is small, so these impressions are still tentative. It reads as cool and smoky, and suits men and women alike. It opens with mandarin orange, Italian lemon and orange for a bright citrus lift. In the heart, Tuscan cypress, Italian sage and juniper berry add a green, spicy, earthy tone. The base of smoky notes and Omani frankincense dries down resinous and woody. Its profile is close to The Fragrance Kitchen At Your Own Risk and Lubin Itasca.

Unholy water

7.7

CinisLabs

Citrus · Floral · Sweet

CinisLabs Unholy water is a unisex scent that sets bright citrus and floral freshness against oud and smoke, with a sweet, resinous, darker feel. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall, followed by winter and spring, and it suits leisure, nights out and evenings. Voters lean masculine, with a sizeable feminine share close behind. Grapefruit, bergamot and neroli give it a bright citrus-floral core. Oud, Nag Champa and smoky notes add a spicy, woody, resinous weight, while white amber sweetens and softens the whole.

Oudh Patchouli / Patchouli Oudh

7.7

Al Haramain

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Al Haramain Oudh Patchouli / Patchouli Oudh is a unisex scent that brings oud, patchouli and cedarwood together in a woody, smoky blend. Strong longevity and sillage make it noticeable all day. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evening, night out and leisure wear. Voters read it as more masculine, though it stays unisex. It opens with smoky notes, animalic notes and dry woods. In the heart, oud, cedarwood and patchouli build an earthy, woody body. Black musk, amber and vanilla leave a sweet, resinous warmth at the base, while spicy and leathery touches run through the whole. Henry Jacques Oudh Imperial (Pure Perfume) and Al Haramain Black Oudh have a close profile.

Euphoria Bold Elixir

6.2

Calvin Klein · 2026

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

Calvin Klein Euphoria Bold Elixir is a sweet, floral women's fragrance built around coconut orchid, jasmine absolute and roasted bourbon vanilla. The scent reads as one piece: coconut orchid and jasmine absolute form a floral, creamy base. Roasted bourbon vanilla adds a gourmand sweetness, while oak wood and smoky notes pull it towards a woody, smoky tone. A spicy accent sits quietly in the background. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate, though the number of votes is small, so the picture is still tentative. It is positioned as a women's fragrance. Givenchy L'Interdit Elixir and Zadig & Voltaire Just Rock! pour Elle have a close profile.