The Perfume Library

Grand Soir (Eau de Parfum)

8.5

Maison Francis Kurkdjian · 2016

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir Eau de Parfum is a sweet, resinous unisex scent that suits cold-season evenings and nights out. The scent reads as a whole, warm and creamy. Vanilla, Siam benzoin and two kinds of tonka bean give it a gourmand softness, while Spanish labdanum adds resinous depth. Ceylonese cinnamon leaf brings a spicy warmth, and Provençal lavender lightly balances the sweetness. Oriental and woody tones run quietly underneath. Both longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening or a night out; summer is rarely chosen. It is read as more masculine, though a fair number of voters find it feminine.

Falcon Leather (Eau de Parfum)

8.1

Matière Première · 2019

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Kobe

7.7

Xerjoff · 2007

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Xerjoff Kobe is a unisex scent that sets the fresh, citrusy florals of orange, neroli and orange blossom against the sweet warmth of tonka bean and amber. Orange, Florida bergamot and Spanish labdanum lead the top, while orange blossom, neroli and Paraguayan petigrain give the heart a green, floral freshness. In the base, musk, tonka bean, amber and Brazilian rosewood sweeten the scent and dry it down woody and resinous. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it suits leisure and daily wear, with business use close behind. Most voters read it as masculine, though many call it classic. Thameen Patiala and Penhaligon's Castile have a close profile.

Radical Rose (Eau de Parfum)

8.3

Matière Première · 2020

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Matière Première Radical Rose Eau de Parfum is a unisex scent that pairs a floral, spicy character with a resinous, woody base, and it suits evenings and the cooler seasons best. Radical Rose has strong longevity and strong sillage. Most voters pick fall, then spring and winter, with summer well behind. It leans towards evening and night-out wear, with some leisure use as well. It reads slightly more feminine than masculine, though plenty of voters call it masculine. The scent is built on Rosa centifolia absolute and saffron, giving a warm, slightly sweet floral texture. Jamaican pepper sharpens the spice, Spanish labdanum adds a resinous softness, and Indonesian patchouli brings an earthy, woody depth. The fresh accord stays in the background of all this richness. Bvlgari Le Gemme Gyan and Paglieri Venetiae have a close profile.

Villa Néroli

8.1

bdk Parfums · 2022

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

bdk Parfums Villa Néroli opens with Paraguayan petigrain, Verdello lemon and Tunisian neroli, and reads as a fresh, citrusy, floral unisex scent. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it leans towards leisure and daily wear, with a place at the office too. It sits close to the middle on gender, reading neither clearly feminine nor clearly masculine. Lemon and neroli keep the opening bright, and rose and orange blossom add a soft floral heart. In the base, Bourbon vanilla sweetens the scent and gives it a creamy warmth, while patchouli, vetiver and labdanum balance that sweetness with an earthy footing. Lalique Soleil Vibrant and Sylvaine Delacourte Dovana have a close profile.

Tabac Rose

7.6

bdk Parfums · 2019

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

bdk Parfums Tabac Rose is a unisex scent for fall and winter evenings, setting a sweet, floral heart against a smoky edge. It opens with plum, Turkish rose absolute, chocolate and Madagascan cinnamon, so the fruity, gourmand side comes forward at once. At the heart, jasmine, tuberose and ylang-ylang form a full floral body, with iris adding a powdery softness. The base of vanilla, labdanum and Balkans tobacco absolute turns sweet, while patchouli gives it a woody, smoky floor. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and see it mostly for evenings and nights out. It leans feminine in the votes, though a fair share call it masculine. Fort & Manlé Charlatan and Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol have a close profile.

Maasaï Mara

8.0

Berdoues · 2017

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Berdoues Maasaï Mara is a fruity, sweet unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. The notes read as a single whole: Egyptian chamomile, Spanish labdanum and South African buchu. A fruity, gourmand sweetness comes first, with a spicy, woody warmth alongside. The creamy, resinous side softens it and adds an oriental depth. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening, leisure and night out lead the occasions. It leans somewhat feminine, though many voters call it masculine. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir (Eau de Parfum) and Zara Ambre Inspirant have a close profile.

Apple Brandy New York

8.0

Kilian · 2013

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Kilian Apple Brandy New York is a unisex gourmand where fruity sweetness meets a smoky, resinous woodiness, best suited to autumn and winter evenings. It has been discontinued. The scent is warm and dense as a whole: oak barrel and vanilla bring the sweetness, while Spanish labdanum adds a resinous depth. Texas cedar and Chinese white cedar build the woody frame, and ambroxan softens it. The fruity side holds its place between the spice and the smoke. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evening and night out leading the occasions. It reads closer to masculine, though it is unisex. Perfumes with a close profile include Maison Margiela By the Fireplace and Aedes de Venustas Café Tabac.

Black Amber

7.5

Agonist · 2011

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Agonist Black Amber is a sweet, spicy, resinous unisex scent built around black amber, styrax and Bourbon vanilla; it has been discontinued. It opens with red algae, davana and frankincense, then cedarwood, Java vetiver and tobacco flower set a woody, earthy heart. In the base, patchouli and Indian sandalwood soften into vanilla, and it dries down warm and smoky. Longevity is rated strong, while sillage stays moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. More voters read it as masculine, though many hear it as feminine. Boss Bottled Elixir and Lubin Akkad have a close profile.

Black Calamus

7.9

Carner · 2016

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Carner Black Calamus is a spicy, resinous and smoky unisex scent built around Indian calamus, Malabar pepper and Turkish rose absolute. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Voters read it mostly as masculine, though the floral side keeps it unisex. It opens with Indian calamus, Malabar pepper and Moroccan coriander seed in a spicy start. Towards the heart, Turkish rose absolute, cistus and osmanthus add a soft floral note. In the base, Omani frankincense, Mexican vanilla and oud leave a resinous, sweet and smoky trail. Etro Io Myself and Lattafa Opulent Oud have a close profile.

Ambre Nue

7.0

Atelier Cologne · 2012

Citrus · Floral · Fruity

Atelier Cologne Ambre Nue is a sweet, resinous unisex scent that sets the brightness of green mandarin orange and Sicilian bergamot against the warmth of Ceylonese cinnamon and Siam benzoin. It opens with green mandarin orange, Egyptian tagetes and Sicilian bergamot, a fresh citrus start. In the heart, Ceylonese cinnamon and Siam benzoin add a spicy sweetness, and the scent drifts toward a gourmand, powdery side. It dries down on Spanish labdanum, Brazilian tonka bean and amber, with a woody, oriental warmth. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans toward leisure and daily wear. Votes for feminine and masculine character are equal. Note 33 Aphrodisiaque and Xerjoff Dhajala have a close profile.

Oud

7.9

John Varvatos · 2014

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

John Varvatos Oud is a spicy, smoky men's fragrance that leans towards autumn and winter evenings. Longevity is good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out are the occasions it suits best. Most see it as masculine, with a classic side too. It opens dry and slightly green with juniper berry, tobacco and clary sage. In the heart, clove, cinnamon, saffron and cardamom bring the spice, softened by rose and jasmine. The base of oud, myrrh, frankincense, black leather and amber settles into a sweet, resinous, woody warmth. The smoky, leathery edge stays present throughout.

Imperiale - Iris Malika

7.8

Chopard · 2022

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Chopard Imperiale - Iris Malika is a floral, sweet and spicy scent with a powdery, resinous warmth. It reads as feminine and suits fall and winter evenings. It opens with the fruity brightness of Italian bergamot, raspberry and blackcurrant, lifted by Ceylonese cinnamon and cardamom. The heart builds a floral, powdery body from Turkish damask rose, ylang-ylang and Chinese iris absolute. In the base, myrrh, sandalwood, labdanum and amber settle it into a resinous, creamy, woody sweetness. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out leading the occasions, and spring also works. Most voters find it feminine and classic.

Chypre Shot

7.5

Olfactive Studio · 2018

Green · Sweet · Gourmand

Olfactive Studio Chypre Shot is a unisex chypre built around coffee, black tea, patchouli and oakmoss, with green and sweet sides. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, spring follows, and summer is the least chosen season. It leans towards leisure and evening wear. It has no clear gender lean: votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. The top notes of cardamom, bergamot and saffron give a spicy, fresh start. In the heart, coffee and black tea add a sweet, gourmand depth, softened a little by Madagascar pepper and peony. The base settles into a woody, resinous ground of patchouli, labdanum, oakmoss and amber. Its profile is close to Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir and The House of Oud Just Before.

Volcano

7.7

Carner · 2018

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Carner Volcano is a floral, spicy and smoky unisex scent in which nutmeg, Bulgarian rose and oud stand out. The top pairs Indonesian nutmeg, Bulgarian rose and Laotian red ginger for a spicy opening. In the heart, Indian cypriol, Somalian frankincense and Indonesian patchouli add an earthy, resinous weight. The base of oud, cistus and benzoin settles into a warm, smoky woodiness. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is worn mostly for evenings and nights out. It leans somewhat masculine, though a fair share of voters read it as feminine. By Terry Rose Infernale and Diptyque Oud Palao have a close profile.

Behold, Patchouli

8.0

Gallagher Fragrances · 2020

Citrus · Fruity · Sweet

Gallagher Fragrances Behold, Patchouli pairs the bright citrus of clementine, bergamot and blood orange with honey, tonka and patchouli, making a sweet, woody, resinous unisex scent. It opens on clementine, bergamot, blood orange and neroli, a fresh, fruity citrus start. In the heart, honey, tonka, chocolate and cream soda pull it toward the gourmand side, while frankincense and amber add a resinous warmth. The base of sandalwood, musk and patchouli dries down woody and earthy. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is worn mostly for evenings, leisure and nights out. Votes for masculine and feminine are almost level, so it sits between the two. Hermès Elixir des Merveilles and Xerjoff Dhajala have a close profile.

French Bouquet

7.1

bdk Parfums · 2019

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

bdk Parfums French Bouquet is a unisex scent in which Moroccan rose, Tunisian orange blossom and Italian bergamot give a fresh, floral opening over a chypre base of vetiver and oakmoss. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters lean towards spring and fall, then winter, and most often pick it for a night out or leisure time. Most voters read it as feminine or classic. Coriander and bergamot brighten the first impression, while Moroccan rose, Jasminum auriculatum and orange blossom turn the heart soft and floral. The base rests on Haitian vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli and sandalwood; tonka bean and musk add sweetness, and Spanish labdanum brings a resinous warmth. Violet and Cuban tobacco lend a powdery, spicy edge. Prada Infusion d'Oeillet and Le Labo Myrrhe 55 have a close profile.

Violet Shot

7.6

Olfactive Studio · 2020

Floral · Green · Sweet

Olfactive Studio Violet Shot is a unisex fragrance that sets Egyptian violet leaf absolute against the green freshness of mandarin and grass, then settles into patchouli and vanilla. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, with winter a fair way behind and summer last. It is chosen for leisure and daily wear as much as for evening and the office. Most voters read it as feminine, though it works as unisex. It opens bright, green and lightly spicy with Calabrian mandarin orange, Madagascan pink pepper and grass. The heart is Egyptian violet leaf absolute and safraleine, a floral, powdery greenness. In the base, Indonesian patchouli, Bourbon vanilla and Spanish labdanum turn it sweeter, creamy, resinous and slightly leathery.

Rose & Dragon

7.4

Carner · 2016

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Carner Rose & Dragon is a spicy, sweet unisex scent that sets Bulgarian rose and Turkish rose absolute against honey and Persian saffron. It opens with cumin, cinnamon leaf and woodland strawberry, so spice and fruit sit side by side. In the heart the roses soften with honey and Ethiopian frankincense, and the floral side turns resinous and warm. The base of labdanum, amber and leather leaves an animal, leathery trail. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads more feminine than masculine, though plenty of voters call it masculine. Calaj Love Toxin and Alexandria Fragrances Nefarious have a close profile.

Grande Notte

8.3

MAD Parfumeur

Sweet · Synthetic · Gourmand

MAD Parfumeur Grande Notte is a dense, sweet, gourmand and resinous fragrance, classed as a men's scent. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters recommend autumn and winter, with spring well behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure. More voters read it as masculine, but a fair share call it feminine. It opens with amber and vanilla, sweet and creamy. In the heart, tonka bean and Spanish labdanum add a resinous, powdery depth, and lavender leaves a spicy, woody edge at the base. The overall impression is warm and gourmand, with a slightly synthetic edge. Jo Malone Myrrh & Tonka (Cologne Intense) and Rabanne Invictus Victory Elixir have a close profile.

Fatale

6.9

Agent Provocateur · 2014

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Agent Provocateur Fatale is a floral, fruity and sweet women's fragrance that most voters place in fall and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate, so it stays with you through the day without filling the room. Most voters pick fall, with winter and spring close behind. Evening and night out lead the occasions, though leisure and daily wear are also named. Most voters read it as feminine. It opens bright and fruity with blackcurrant, mango and Madagascan pink pepper. In the heart, patchouli, gardenia and orris absolute build a powdery floral texture. The base turns gourmand and sweet with Spanish labdanum, chocolate, musk and vanilla orchid. Elizabeth Grant Graceful Angel and essence Kiss have a close profile.

Winter 25

7.7

Ffern · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Calice de la Séduction Éternelle

7.7

Dali Haute Parfumerie · 2016

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Dali Haute Parfumerie Calice de la Séduction Éternelle is a unisex scent for fall and winter evenings, where a sweet floral side meets resinous warmth. Jasmine sambac, Comorian ylang-ylang and Florida orange give it a floral, fruity core, which vanilla and amber sweeten. Spanish labdanum adds resin, cedarwood and Haitian vetiver bring a woody dryness, and Indonesian patchouli adds an earthy depth. The spicy, oriental side keeps the whole warm and dense. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Some read it as feminine, others as masculine, and it wears comfortably as unisex. Une Nuit Nomade Click Song and Divine L'Inspiratrice have a close profile.

Ambre Noir

8.1

Jinkoh Store · 2023

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Jinkoh Store Ambre Noir is a unisex fragrance that pairs clove, cardamom and cinnamon with plum, date and toffee, settling into amber and vanilla; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring well behind. It is chosen most for nights out, evenings and leisure time, and less for daily or office wear. It opens with clove, cardamom, cinnamon and bergamot, giving a spiced warmth. The heart is fruity and gourmand: date, plum, apricot, toffee and rose lokum blend together, softened by powdery notes. The base of amber, vanilla, patchouli and sandalwood leaves a woody, faintly smoky sweetness.