The Perfume Library

_but not today_

7.1

Filippo Sorcinelli · 2018

Floral · Green · Synthetic

Filippo Sorcinelli _but not today_ is a green, woody and smoky unisex scent that leans towards fall and spring, and suits leisure time or evenings. It opens fresh and herbal with lemon, bergamot, artemisia and lavender. In the heart, calamus, rosemary and styrax set that freshness on a spicy, resinous footing. The base dries down with oakmoss, sandalwood, amber and musk, while floral and animal touches stay in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters recommend fall, spring and winter, with summer well behind. Leisure and evening are the favoured occasions; it reads somewhat masculine, though many find it feminine or modern. Arrogance Arrogance pour Homme (Eau de Toilette) and Diego Dalla Palma Aqualambara have a close profile.

Asja (Eau de Toilette)

7.6

Fendi · 1992

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Toilette

Fendi Asja Eau de Toilette is a discontinued women's fragrance that carries a fruity opening of apricot, peach and bergamot into a sweet, spicy oriental line of honey, cinnamon and flowers. The top is apricot, peach, raspberry, bergamot and lemon, so the first spray reads fruity and bright. In the heart, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, orchid and ylang-ylang build a floral base, while honey and cinnamon sweeten and spice it. The base of vanilla, amber, sandalwood and benzoin closes it with a woody, resinous warmth. Most voters find both its longevity and its sillage good. It leans towards autumn and winter, and evening and night-out wear dominate. Voters mostly call its character feminine, with classic second. Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars and Paloma Picasso Tentations have a close profile.

Kinski

7.3

Kinski Fragrance · 2012

Floral · Green · Synthetic

Kinski Fragrance Kinski is a men's scent that opens green and spicy with bergamot, juniper and cannabis, then settles into an earthy, woody base of vetiver and patchouli; it has been discontinued. The opening is carried by bergamot, aldehydes, juniper, cannabis and blackcurrant. In the heart, rose, nutmeg and magnolia give a floral, spicy middle, while castoreum and marine notes add an animal, slightly synthetic texture. The base dries down to vetiver, patchouli, suede and benzoin, with resinous, smoky and leathery accords weighing heaviest. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is mostly placed in the evening and night-out slots. It reads masculine and classic. Arrogance pour Homme and Léonard pour Homme have a close profile.

Last Birthday Cake

8.0

Toskovat' · 2023

Sweet · Synthetic · Gourmand

Toskovat' Last Birthday Cake is a discontinued unisex fragrance, a sweet, gourmand and creamy scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with cocoa, milk, malt and bitter almond, while menthol and cork add a cool, dry edge to the sweetness. Towards the heart, tonka bean, vanilla and brown sugar take over, with benzoin and armagnac adding warmth. The base settles into frankincense, styrax and papyrus, a resinous, smoky and woody ground. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evenings and nights out leading and summer rarely chosen. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads as open to both. Its profile is close to The Dua Brand Sweet Tabacum and Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him!.

Patchouli of the Underworld

7.7

Electimuss · 2022

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Electimuss Patchouli of the Underworld is a serious masculine scent that sets woody, animal and smoky tones over a green, sweet and spicy base. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, spring follows, and summer is rarely chosen. It is mentioned most for evenings, leisure and nights out. Voters tend to call it masculine and classic. The top opens with bergamot, mandarin orange and black pepper, a bright spicy start. The heart holds patchouli, cade juniper and birch, bringing a smoky, earthy weight. The base of labdanum, castoreum and styrax dries down resinous and leathery. Nishane Unutamam and Le Labo Patchouli 24 (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Oud Bleu Intense

8.1

Fragrance Du Bois

Fresh · Citrus · Fruity

Fragrance Du Bois Oud Bleu Intense is a unisex oriental that sets a fresh, citrusy opening against a resinous, smoky woodiness, moving from bright spice towards the warmth of oud and amber. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, fall and summer, with winter the least chosen. Daily wear, leisure, evening and business all draw similar support. Voters mostly find it masculine, though a fair share read it as feminine. It opens with cardamom, nutmeg and mandarin orange, a fresh, spicy and slightly fruity start. Amber, cistus, frankincense and myrrh form the heart, and the base of oud, styrax, opoponax and benzoin settles into something sweet, resinous and smoky. The Dua Brand Aoud Intense Bleu and Fragrance Du Bois Oud Violet Intense have a close profile.

Oriental Brûlant

8.1

Guerlain · 2008

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Guerlain Oriental Brûlant is a sweet, spicy women's fragrance built on vanilla, tonka bean and styrax; it has been discontinued. Most voters pick fall and winter, and lean towards evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, and most voters read it as feminine. It opens with clementine and balsamic notes, and almond and spices take the heart. The base of styrax, tonka bean and vanilla settles into a gourmand, powdery, resinous warmth with a faint smoky trace. Jo Malone Myrrh & Tonka (Cologne Intense) and Etro Ambra (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

Avanguardia

7.5

Xerjoff · 2026

Fruity · Sweet · Synthetic

Xerjoff Avanguardia is a unisex scent that most voters place in autumn and winter, for evenings and nights out. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong, so it makes itself known. Voters tend to read it as masculine and modern, and rarely pick it for summer. The character is fruity and sweet, with cherry, mandarin orange and davana at the top. Patchouli, rose and black violet make up the heart, settling into tonka bean and styrax. Synthetic, spicy, creamy and smoky tones add an edge and a leathery feel to the sweetness.

L'Eau Neuve - Figaro

7.4

Lubin · 2010

Fresh · Green · Fruity

Lubin L'Eau Neuve - Figaro is a unisex fragrance that pairs a fresh, green character with a fruity, spicy touch, settling onto a woody, resinous base. It opens with bergamot, grapefruit, maritime pine and pink pepper, a bright start with a slight bite. The heart of fig, Damascus plum, apple, coriander and clover adds a soft, fruity and green feel. In the base, styrax, sandalwood, vetiver and tonka bean carry it onto a woody, earthy and lightly sweet ground. Longevity and sillage are moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it leans towards leisure, daily and office wear. Most voters read it as masculine, while a smaller share finds it feminine. Creed Original Vetiver and Guerlain Vétiver Fauve have a close profile.

Brit Rhythm for Him (Eau de Toilette)

6.3

Burberry · 2013

Fresh · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Toilette

Burberry Brit Rhythm for Him Eau de Toilette is a fresh, sweet scent hardened by spice, wood and leather, with a masculine bearing; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick autumn and spring, and it suits daily wear, leisure and the office best. Most voters call it masculine and modern. It opens with cardamom, basil and juniper berry, and styrax, black leather and patchouli lead the heart. Tonka bean, cedarwood and frankincense settle in the base. The overall impression is fresh and fruity, then spicy, woody and leathery. Rochas L'Homme Rochas and Montblanc Emblem Intense have a close profile.

Maroquin

8.2

Annette Neuffer · 2016

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Annette Neuffer Maroquin is a sweet, spicy and resinous unisex scent that opens with saffron, black pepper and bergamot and settles on frankincense, tobacco and leather. The opening carries saffron, black pepper and bergamot, pairing citrus with spice. In the heart, Somalian frankincense, Virginia tobacco and iris come forward; in the base, vanilla, benzoin, sandalwood and leathery notes give it a sweet, smoky and earthy footing. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings, leisure and nights out. It reads slightly more masculine than feminine, though feminine votes are close behind. Annette Neuffer Per Fumum: Ambra Luminosa and Amouage Interlude Man have a close profile.

Perfume Calligraphy Saffron

7.6

Aramis · 2014

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Saffron is a sweet, spicy unisex scent built around saffron, Turkish rose absolute and lavender in the heart; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring third and summer well behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure time. Votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine, so it sits genuinely in the middle. It opens with bergamot and tagetes. In the heart, saffron, rose and lavender form a floral, spicy core. In the base, tonka bean sweetens the scent, while vetiver and styrax add a woody, resinous, powdery warmth. Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose and Dior Ambre Nuit (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Victresse

7.5

Dita von Teese · 2023

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Dita von Teese Victresse is a spicy, woody and resinous women's fragrance with a smoky, earthy edge. It opens with rosewood, frankincense resin and black pepper, a dry, spicy, resinous start. Gaiac wood, rose and styrax form the heart, where the rose reads as a woody, smoky shade rather than a soft floral. Sandalwood, ambroxan and cashmere wood in the base settle it into a warm, smooth woodiness. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for daytime. More voters call it feminine than masculine, but a good share see it as masculine. Tom Ford Oud Wood (Eau de Parfum) and Bentley for Men Absolute have a close profile.

Psychotrope

7.8

Malbrum · 2015

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Malbrum Psychotrope is a woody, resinous unisex scent for fall and winter evenings, with a sweet, spicy and smoky warmth. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evenings, leisure time and nights out leading, while office and daily wear stay in the background. Votes for masculine and feminine character are close, so it reads as open to both. Sandalwood, cedarwood and cashmeran build the woody core, while frankincense and styrax add a resinous weight. Saffron and pimento carry the spice, and ambergris softens the sweetness. An earthy, smoky undertone runs through the whole scent.

Thumbsucker

7.0

Stora Skuggan · 2020

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Stora Skuggan Thumbsucker is a unisex scent that pairs a floral, fruity core with sweet, powdery and resinous touches. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most voters still read it as feminine. It opens with honey and narcissus, then moves into violet and cherry. The base of candle wax, Himalayan cedar, styrax and bitter almond adds woody, spicy and resinous depth. Blackbird Anemone and Senyokô La Tsarine have a close profile.

Mystère (Eau de Parfum)

8.2

Rochas · 1978

Floral · Green · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Rochas Mystère Eau de Parfum is a chypre built on a green opening of galbanum, hyacinth and coriander, leading into a floral heart of jasmine, tuberose and ylang-ylang. It has been discontinued and is made for women. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen mainly for evenings and nights out. Most votes call it feminine and classic, though a fair number find it masculine. The green, hyacinth and coriander opening gives way to a floral heart where tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and violet lead. In the base, cedar, patchouli, oakmoss and musk dry it down with a woody, spicy and animalic weight. Animale Animale and Lancôme Magie Noire have a close profile.

Gardez-Moi (2013)

7.3

Jovoy · 2013

Fresh · Floral · Green

Jovoy Gardez-Moi is a floral perfume for women that sets lily, gardenia and jasmine on a green, fresh and lightly sweet base, leaning towards spring and summer days. It opens with cyclamen, coriander, tomato leaf and black pepper alongside aldehydes, giving a fresh, green and slightly spicy start. In the heart, lily, gardenia, ylang-ylang and jasmine lead, while mimosa and styrax add a creamy softness. The base sweetens the flowers with oakmoss, musk, raspberry and vanilla, and cedar adds a woody footing. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and summer, with winter the least chosen season. Leisure, night out and evening are the occasions named most, and voters mostly call it feminine and classic. Widian Lily and Régalien Nazen have a close profile.

No 6 - À la Carte

7.4

Lengling · 2015

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Lengling No 6 - À la Carte is a sweet, spicy unisex fragrance that suits fall and winter evenings, its gourmand side balanced by a resinous, smoky woodiness. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen most often for evenings and nights out. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated good. Though unisex, more voters call it feminine than masculine. Toffee and vanilla build a sweet, creamy base, softened by pistachio. Pink pepper adds spice, while frankincense, styrax and oud bring a smoky, resinous depth. Australian sandalwood rounds out the woody side. Lattafa Raghba and Ex Nihilo Atlas Fever have a close profile.

mb03

7.6

Biehl Parfumkunstwerke · 2007

Fresh · Spicy · Woody

Biehl Parfumkunstwerke mb03 is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, spicy start against a resinous, smoky and woody body. Elemi resin, red pepper and Roman chamomile sit in the heart, while ambergris, patchouli, sandalwood and frankincense carry the base. Musk and styrax soften the depth, and the woody, oriental accords keep the spice in the background. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and leisure wear leading. More voters call it masculine than feminine, though a good share read it as feminine. Comme des Garçons Series 3: Incense - Avignon and Ojar Encens Cuivre have a close profile.

№ 14 - Noontide Petals

7.6

Tauer Perfumes · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Tauer Perfumes № 14 - Noontide Petals opens fresh and citrusy, then settles into a powdery, sweet, resinous floral; it is a unisex scent suited to leisure and daytime. It wears with strong longevity and good sillage. Most voters place it in spring and fall, though summer and winter get votes too. Leisure, daily and evening wear lead the occasions. Voters read it mostly as feminine, with a sizeable masculine minority. It has been discontinued. The top notes are aldehydes, bergamot and Bourbon geranium, a clean citrus start. The heart is dominated by tuberose, ylang-ylang, rose and jasmine. In the base, vetiver, sandalwood, frankincense and vanilla give the flowers a woody, smoky, resinous footing. Meo Fusciuni Viole Nere and Chanel 1932 have a close profile.

Trussardi Donna (1982) (Eau de Toilette)

7.5

Trussardi · 1982

Fresh · Floral · Green

Trussardi Donna is Trussardi's 1982 women's fragrance, setting a fresh, green and floral side against a woody, resinous base. It has been discontinued. It opens with bergamot, coriander, hyacinth and galbanum, which give a sharp, green freshness. The heart builds a floral body from ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose and rose. In the base, sandalwood, patchouli, cedarwood and styrax settle it into an earthy, leathery, chypre warmth. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, with winter not far behind, and daily wear and the office lead the occasions. Most voters find it feminine, though many also call it classic. Gucci Gucci № 3 and Clinique Aromatics Elixir have a close profile.

L'Oudh

7.7

Tauer Perfumes · 2018

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Tauer Perfumes L'Oudh is a unisex scent built around Laotian oud, castoreum, styrax and myrrh, with a smoky, resinous and animalic character. It stays dense and dark from start to finish. Oud, patchouli and Java vetiver lay an earthy base, while tobacco and castoreum add a leathery edge. Jasmine and rose absolute and Mysore sandalwood soften that edge a little, but the spicy, woody side always dominates. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it is most often placed in the evening or on a night out. Many find it masculine. Amouage Opus XIII - Silver Oud and Nishane Afrika-Olifant have a close profile.

Love and Tears Surrender (Perfume)

6.3

Kilian · 2010

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Kilian Love and Tears Surrender is a fresh, green-leaning unisex perfume built on oakmoss, jasmine and galbanum; it has been discontinued. Bergamot and petitgrain give it a citrus brightness, which galbanum and cypress turn green. Jasmine, ylang-ylang and orange blossom add a sweet floral side, while oakmoss and cedar make the woody, lightly spicy foundation. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring, then fall, and it leans towards leisure and nights out. About half of voters read it as feminine, though it works as unisex. Miller Harris La Pluie and Tom Ford Vert Bohème have a close profile.

Civet de Nuit

8.1

Areej Le Doré · 2022

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Areej Le Doré Civet de Nuit is a unisex scent led by civet, castoreum and oakmoss, with a strong floral and animalic side. It opens with heliotrope and aldehydes, then moves into a heart of ylang-ylang, night-blooming jasmine and civet. The base leans on musk, castoreum, styrax, benzoin and labdanum. The overall impression is sweet, powdery, creamy and resinous, with animalic and leathery tones beneath that softness. The floral heart slowly deepens into a darker base. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night-out wear lead. Masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it reads as open to both. It has been discontinued. Pierre de Velay No. 23 and Francesca Bianchi Under My Skin have a close profile.