The Perfume Library

Jaipur Chai

7.4

Ineke · 2019

Floral · Sweet · Synthetic

Ineke Jaipur Chai is a spicy, sweet unisex scent that pairs a milky tea feel with a gourmand, creamy warmth. It opens with cinnamon, cardamom, black tea and clove, spices that give a dry, warming tea character. In the heart, cedarwood, gaiac wood and rose set a woody, lightly floral base. In the base, suede, vanilla, cream and musk soften the scent and sweeten it. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close without leaving a heavy trail. It reads equally well on men and women. Its profile is close to Bettina Barty Vanilla (Eau de Toilette) and Baruti Chai (Extrait de Parfum).

Pivoine

7.3

Manos Gerakinis · 2017

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Manos Gerakinis Pivoine is a fresh, floral unisex scent built around red apple, peony and rose, and it leans towards spring and summer days. It opens with red apple, bringing a fruity, sweet freshness. In the heart, peony, rose, jasmine and carnation form the floral core. Suede in the base leaves a soft, leathery ground, while sweetness and freshness stay present throughout. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and the office lead the occasions. Most voters read it as feminine. Jo Malone Peony & Blush Suede and A'pieu Lovely Peony have a close profile.

Dunhill Black (Eau de Toilette)

6.1

Dunhill · 2008

Fresh · Floral · Green

Eau de Toilette

Dunhill Black Eau de Toilette is a fresh, green men's scent that leans towards spring and summer and suits leisure time, daily wear and the office. Voters place it mostly in spring, then fall and summer, with very few choosing winter. Its longevity is rated moderate and its sillage weak, so it stays close to the skin rather than filling a room. Most voters read it as masculine, with others calling it classic or modern. It has been discontinued. Nettle opens it, giving a green, fresh start. Jasmine and lavender in the heart add a soft floral touch. The base of suede, Virginia cedar and gaiac wood brings a woody, smoky, leathery footing, while the fruity and sweet accords take the edge off.

Himitsu Violets / Himitsu

7.9

Régime des Fleurs · 2022

Floral · Green · Sweet

Régime des Fleurs Himitsu Violets / Himitsu is a floral, green scent softened by powdery and leathery touches, easiest to wear in spring and autumn. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and autumn, and it leans towards leisure and daytime wear, with some votes for the office. It is classed as masculine, though the floral side is clear. It opens with heliotrope and lily of the valley, then saffron and violet take over in the heart. In the base, suede and tolu balm sweeten it and add a warm, leathery note, while the spicy and woody tones stay in the background. Laboratorio Olfattivo Nirmal and Parfum d'Empire Equistrius have a close profile.

Cortile

6.9

Milano Fragranze · 2021

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Milano Fragranze Cortile is a fresh, floral scent whose sweetness and spice rest on a woody base, and it leans towards spring and summer days. Cortile is presented as unisex, though most voters read it as feminine. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Spring and summer lead the season votes, with fall and winter well behind. It sits closer to leisure and daily wear, with some room for evenings and the office. The top opens with Guatemala coffee bean, bergamot, violet leaf absolute and cinnamon. In the heart, osmanthus, ylang-ylang, jasmine sambac and tuberose build a floral core. Indonesian sandalwood, amber and suede in the base soften it and add sweetness.

Delicious Black Powder

6.8

Jousset Parfums · 2022

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Jousset Parfums Delicious Black Powder is a sweet, gourmand unisex scent that leans towards leisure time and evenings, pairing powdery cocoa with the warmth of suede. It opens with saffron, cocoa and bergamot: spice and cocoa sweetness come first, with the bergamot lightening them a little. In the heart, tonka bean, immortelle and vanilla make it creamy and powdery. The base holds suede, vanilla and cocoa, where an earthy, leathery touch softens the sweetness. Voters rate its longevity as good and its sillage as moderate. Leisure and evening wear dominate, and night-out use is common too. Most voters call its character modern, and masculine and feminine votes are equal, so it sits comfortably on either side.

Without a Trace (Eau de Parfum)

8.5

Fine'ry · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Fine'ry Without a Trace Eau de Parfum is a fresh, powdery women's scent built around suede, musk, cedarwood and bitter orange blossom, made for everyday wear. The notes have no top, heart and base split; the scent reads as a single piece from start to finish. Bitter orange blossom brings a citrus freshness that blends with the soft, creamy feel of suede and musk. Cedarwood supplies a woody frame, while leathery and sweet shades stay in the background. Longevity and sillage are moderate, so it sits close to the skin without turning heavy. Voters spread all four seasons almost evenly, leaning slightly to summer and spring. It is picked most for daily and leisure wear.

Apollon

7.1

OrkusOdes · 2024

Fruity · Sweet · Synthetic

OrkusOdes Apollon is a fruity, gourmand scent with a leathery base, released as a men's perfume and best suited to autumn and winter evenings. It opens with heliotrope, almond, rum and cocoa, a sweet and rounded start. In the heart, cashmere wood, suede and cherry bring fruit and soft leather together. The base of musk, caramel, vanilla and leather settles into a warm, oriental, slightly synthetic sweetness. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most pick autumn and winter, with night-out and evening wear leading. Votes for masculine and feminine are close, so it can read as unisex. Alex+ Rum+ and Miller Harris Velvet Cherry have a close profile.

Beautiful Belle

6.7

Estēe Lauder · 2018

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Estēe Lauder Beautiful Belle is a fresh, sweet floral for women, built around tuberose, gardenia and orange blossom in the heart. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it is mostly worn for daily and leisure use, with office wear next. Voters call it feminine, and some find it classic. The top opens fruity and fresh with mimosa, lychee and rose. The white flowers in the heart give it a soft, creamy floral body. In the base, orris root, marzipan, suede and musk settle it into a powdery, sweet, woody finish.

Bespoke Parfum Collection - Cuir Imperial

8.1

Ormonde Jayne · 2018

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Ormonde Jayne Bespoke Parfum Collection - Cuir Imperial is a leathery, smoky and spicy men's scent that leans towards autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. The top notes are bergamot, cardamom, pink pepper and cognac, so it opens spicy with a touch of freshness. In the heart, suede, leather, saffron and iris come forward, with rose absolute and freesia adding a soft floral edge. The base of frankincense, patchouli, cedar and vetiver is woody, earthy and smoky. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and evening and night out are the favoured occasions. It reads mostly masculine, with some voters calling it classic. Its profile is close to L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh and Amouage Tribute.

Jasmine Narcotique (2020)

7.9

Aaron Terence Hughes · 2020

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Aaron Terence Hughes Jasmine Narcotique is a floral, sweet unisex scent built around jasmine sambac and night-blooming jasmine; it has been discontinued. The two jasmines lead at the start. Toward the heart, suede and cocaine come in, and musk remains at the base. Besides floral and sweet, the accords include spicy, animal, powdery and creamy tones, giving a warm, dense jasmine impression. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, though the vote counts are small, so these ratings are tentative. Voters lean most toward evening, then leisure and night out. Jouissance Les Cahiers Secrets and Serge Lutens Clair de musc have a close profile.

Era Elixir

7.4

Jaguar · 2025

Fresh · Fruity · Sweet

Jaguar Era Elixir is a men's fragrance that pairs a spicy opening of black pepper, saffron and cardamom with a sweet, leathery base of vanilla, caramel and tobacco. The top is led by black pepper, saffron, cardamom and bergamot, with grapefruit and mandarin orange adding a fresh, fruity lift. Lily of the valley and violet leaf sit in the heart. In the base, vanilla, caramel and sandalwood turn sweet, while tobacco and leather leave a woody, oriental trail as it dries down. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind. It suits daily wear, leisure and the office, and half of voters read it as masculine. Laura Biagiotti Romamor Uomo and James Bond 007 Seven Intense have a close profile.

Suede (2020)

6.6

Rook Perfumes · 2020

Spicy · Woody · Animal

Rook Perfumes Suede is a unisex scent with a smoky, leathery and spicy character, leaning towards fall and winter evenings. Most voters pick winter and fall, with spring well behind. Leisure and evening wear lead, and it is also chosen for nights out. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters read it as masculine, though it is a unisex fragrance. Suede opens on suede, moves to tobacco in the heart and rests on leather. It carries a smoky, earthy warmth, backed by spicy, resinous and woody accords, with an animal note in the background. Two perfumes with a close profile are Rook Perfumes Suede (2018) and Montale Aoud Cuir d'Arabie.

Cryptic

7.8

Phuong Dang · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Green

Phuong Dang Cryptic is a unisex chypre that sets rose, peony and orris concrete on oakmoss and musk, with a floral, green edge. It opens with aldehydes, suede, carrot and magnolia, which read crisp, fresh and slightly powdery. In the heart, Moroccan rose absolute, Turkish rose and peony come forward, while orris concrete adds a powdery softness to the petals. The base of oakmoss, oak wood, amber and musk dries down woody and faintly sweet. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Voters spread their picks fairly evenly across the four seasons, with night out and evening the most chosen occasions, and leisure wear close behind. Some voters call it feminine and others masculine, so it sits genuinely in between. Yves Rocher Magnolia and Penhaligon's Artemisia have a close profile.

Mosaic

7.8

Kinetic Perfumes · 2025

Sweet · Synthetic · Spicy

Kinetic Perfumes Mosaic is a sweet, spicy unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter evenings. It opens with sugar, pink pepper, kumquat and bitter orange, while rhubarb and saffron add a spicy edge to that sweetness. The heart brings frankincense, cedarwood and caramel forward, and the base of vetiver, suede and oud gives it a woody, leathery, smoky footing. The overall impression is sweet, resinous and lightly powdery. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and nights out and evenings are the most named occasions. It reads more masculine than feminine, though some voters find it feminine. Amouage Interlude Black Iris and Amouage Purpose 50 have a close profile.

Almond Suede

7.3

Arquiste · 2024

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Arquiste Almond Suede is a sweet, gourmand and lightly leathery unisex scent built around bitter almond, honeycomb absolute and suede. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good, though the small number of votes keeps that picture tentative. Evening, leisure and night-out wear lead, with daily and business use further behind. It suits men and women alike. It opens with honeycomb absolute, bergamot, pink pepper and bitter almond. In the heart, saffron, neroli and orange blossom add a floral, spicy softness. In the base, rock sugar and vanilla absolute sweeten the scent while suede gives it a warm, leathery edge.

Black Tag Intense

7.5

Zara · 2014

Fresh · Sweet · Synthetic

Zara Black Tag Intense is a fresh, spicy men's fragrance that moves into a leathery, woody core with a sweet, resinous finish; it has been discontinued. Black pepper and bergamot open it sharp and lively. In the heart, leather and cedarwood take over, and the woody, leathery character settles in. Amber and suede soften the base, where the sweet, resinous side dominates and a slightly synthetic sheen remains. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind; summer is the least chosen season. It leans towards night outs, leisure and evenings, though it also gets votes for daytime and the office.

Leather Black (K)night

7.3

L'Atelier Parfum · 2022

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

L'Atelier Parfum Leather Blacknight is a leathery, smoky unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. Most voters pick autumn, then winter, and it is chosen mainly for nights out and evenings. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. It reads somewhat more masculine, though it is unisex. The top has bergamot, pink pepper and saffron; the heart brings jasmine sambac, cocoa, orris butter and ink. The base holds suede, hazelnut and patchouli. Its floral and sweet side is balanced by spicy, woody and powdery tones, with a creamy softness alongside the leather.

Jubilant Pine & Patchouli

7.3

Molton Brown · 2021

Fresh · Green · Fruity

Molton Brown Jubilant Pine & Patchouli is a unisex fragrance that puts pine, cinnamon and patchouli side by side; it has been discontinued. It opens with cinnamon, juniper berry and pine, giving a fresh, green and spicy first impression. In the heart, amber, suede and red fruits soften it, adding a fruity, leathery touch. The base of musk, vanilla and patchouli leaves a resinous, earthy, sweet woodiness. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn, with winter and spring not far behind, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. More voters read it as masculine, though it is unisex. Diptyque 34 Boulevard Saint Germain (Eau de Toilette) and New Notes Erotika Minimale have a close profile.

Hemlock

7.4

Parfums Quartana · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Green

Parfums Quartana Hemlock is a unisex fragrance that sets a fresh, floral character against sweet, spicy and resinous tones, with a green, woody side. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter and summer further behind. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, and voters read it as slightly more feminine than masculine. Jasmine sambac, black magnolia and white blossoms form the floral heart of it. Cinnamon, clove and pink pepper bring spice, while benzoin, vanilla and tonka bean add sweetness. Sandalwood and suede give it a woody, leathery base. There is a fresh, green and slightly synthetic feel too. Parfums Quartana Venetian Belladonna and Gallivant Amsterdam have a close profile.

Dualité Magnifique

7.6

Plume Impression

Fresh · Floral · Green

Plume Impression Dualité Magnifique is a unisex scent led by saffron, rose and oud, with a spicy edge that sits alongside its sweetness. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall, followed by winter and spring, and it leans towards evenings and nights out while still finding a place in leisure and daily wear. Votes split closely between feminine and masculine, so it sits somewhere in between. It opens with davana and saffron, spicy and slightly sweet. In the heart, rose, Akigalawood® and cypriol bring out the floral and woody sides. The base of oud, suede and amber leaves a warm, animalic trail, while fresh and green accords add some lift in the background. Lattafa Opulent Oud and Ajmal Zahee 2 have a close profile.

Meringue

7.7

French Avenue · 2024

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

French Avenue Meringue is a sweet, powdery women's fragrance that opens with mandarin orange, pineapple and bergamot and settles into sandalwood, suede and vanilla. The opening is a bright, fruity burst of mandarin orange, pineapple and bergamot. In the heart, sandalwood, suede and pink pepper add a spicy, slightly leathery woodiness. The base of birch, white musk, ambergris and vanilla rests the scent on a creamy, sweet footing. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and evenings. Sweet without turning heavy, it reads feminine. Valentino Valentino Uomo Intense (2016) and Guerlain L'Homme Idéal (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

The Scent of Banat

7.4

Wesker · 2021

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Wesker The Scent of Banat is a dark unisex scent for autumn and winter evenings, leaning on earth and leather. The top holds cistus, blackberry, frankincense and patchouli, while the heart brings oak wood, chamomile, coffee bean and tobacco flower. It dries down to castoreum, suede, soil and oakmoss. Spicy, woody and smoky accords sit on a leathery, animal base. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evening and leisure named most often. Most voters read it as leaning masculine, with a classic feel. Its profile is close to Tauer Perfumes L'Oudh and Le Labo Oud 27.

Rêve en Cuir

7.3

Indult · 2008

Citrus · Green · Spicy

Indult Rêve en Cuir is a leathery, woody unisex scent that suits fall and spring days; it has been discontinued. Leather and suede run through the whole scent. Lemon and bergamot give it a fresh citrus lift, while cardamom, pink pepper and clove add a spicy warmth. Cedarwood and vetiver form a woody base, and hay and oregano bring a green, slightly powdery edge. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick fall, then spring, and leisure, night out and business are chosen about equally. It reads masculine to most voters, though a good share find it feminine. Indult Cuir 404 and Aramis Gold have a close profile.