The Perfume Library

Charenton Macerations · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Charenton Macerations Christopher Street is a men's fragrance that sets the coolness of lime cocktail, bergamot and bitter orange against tobacco and leather, sitting between fresh and smoky. It opens with citrus in front and tobacco and leather close behind. In the heart, cinnamon and clove add spice while orange blossom and sweet william give a soft floral touch. The base of frankincense, myrrh, patchouli, musk and moss turns resinous, woody and slightly animalic. A chypre character runs through the accords. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, though both ratings rest on few votes. The balance of fresh citrus and smoky spice keeps it on the masculine side. Gainsboro G-man and Balenciaga Portos have a close profile.

Kilim (Eau de Parfum)

Carrement Belle

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Carrement Belle Kilim Eau de Parfum is a sweet, powdery floral for women, built around ylang-ylang, jasmine and vanilla. Floral and fruity sweetness leads, with apple, raspberry and apricot sitting beside the flowers. Benzoin and amber add a creamy, resinous softness, while cedar and patchouli bring a woody, earthy depth. Clove adds a light spice, and tobacco stays in the background. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters recommend fall and spring, with winter close behind. It gets votes for leisure, evening, daily wear and the office. Most voters read it as feminine, and some call it classic. Xerjoff Richwood and Prada Some Velvet Morning have a close profile.

Yasuni Amber

Gritti · 2026

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Gritti Yasuni Amber is a unisex gourmand and spicy scent that opens with orange, lavender and bergamot, then moves into the warmth of amber, nutmeg and tobacco before settling into vanilla and caramel. The top notes of orange, lavender and bergamot give it a fresh start. In the heart, amber, nutmeg, tobacco and geranium bring a spicy, resinous warmth. The base lays down smoky notes and cedarwood as a woody ground, while vanilla and caramel pull it towards a creamy, sweet finish. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, though the number of votes is small, so these ratings are only a rough guide. Its sweet, oriental and woody character works on both men and women. Perfumes with a close profile include Phil Julian Fovere and Xerjoff Starlight.

Zek

Necalli · 2023

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Necalli Zek is a unisex scent that opens with cognac, cinnamon and bergamot and deepens into tobacco and smoked wood. The opening is a spicy, sweet warmth from cognac and cinnamon, lightened by a fresh, green touch of bergamot. Tobacco and ambroxan lead the heart, while tonka bean, musk and smoked wood settle the base into something sweet, woody and smoky. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, though both ratings rest on only a small number of votes. Being unisex, it suits men and women alike. Montblanc Présence (Eau de Toilette) and Utique Ambre Royal have a close profile.

Tartan

Sarah Baker Perfumes · 2016

Green · Gourmand · Spicy

Sarah Baker Perfumes Tartan is a woody, smoky and leathery unisex scent with a gourmand touch from bread and hop. Its longevity and sillage are both rated as good, though with only a few votes these ratings are tentative. It leans neither masculine nor feminine and sits comfortably as a unisex fragrance. Leather, tobacco and Virginia cedar form the backbone, with a green, earthy air around them. Bread and hop add a warm, gourmand note, while jasmine tea and tree moss soften the woody texture. Labdanum brings a resinous depth. Sarah Baker Perfumes Tartan Cask and Murdock Bright Leaf have a close profile.

Signature (Eau de Toilette)

Al Haramain

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Toilette

Al Haramain Signature Eau de Toilette is a fresh, citrusy men's scent that opens with orange, rosemary and frankincense and dries down to sandalwood and amber. The top is orange, rosemary, artemisia and frankincense, with citrus and green notes leading. The heart of cedarwood, lily of the valley, grapefruit and jasmine turns floral and woody. In the base, sandalwood, tobacco, amber and moss sweeten it and add a light smokiness. Aquatic and spicy tones stay in the background. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, though the sample is small, so treat these as rough. Voters lean most towards daily wear and leisure, with office and night-out use not far behind. Perfumes with a close profile include Creed Erolfa and Mexx Energizing Man (Eau de Toilette).

XIII Eau d'Ambre

6.5

RPL Maison

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

RPL Maison XIII Eau d'Ambre is a unisex scent built around grapefruit, blood orange and tonka bean, pairing citrus freshness with sweetness. Longevity and sillage are moderate, though the small number of ratings makes this a loose guide. Voters place it mostly in leisure and daily wear, with business use close behind. Masculine and feminine votes are equal, so it sits comfortably between the two. It opens fresh and citrusy with grapefruit, blood orange and apple. The heart brings tonka bean, cedar leaf, freesia and patchouli, where the floral and woody sides come through. In the base, tobacco, sandalwood, vanilla and amber add a sweet, powdery, slightly smoky warmth. Its profile is close to Jennifer Lopez Deseo for Men and Hayari Only for Her (Eau de Parfum).

Midnight Oud

6.0

Kelsey Berwin

Sweet · Synthetic · Spicy

Kelsey Berwin Midnight Oud is a sweet, spicy and smoky men's fragrance that suits autumn and winter evenings. It opens with bergamot, copaiba balsam and sage, with rose and cashmere wood in the heart. The base is led by amber, tobacco, oud, sandalwood and moss. The overall impression is oriental: resinous, woody and leathery, with a smoky edge over the sweetness. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it is suggested mainly for evenings and nights out. Longevity and sillage are rated good, though these ratings rest on only a few votes. Frau Tonis Parfum № 19 Oud Weiss and Swiss Arabian Nawaf have a close profile.

Après L'Amour

Infiniment Coty Paris · 2024

Citrus · Sweet · Spicy

Infiniment Coty Paris Après L'Amour is a sweet, smoky unisex fragrance built around tobacco, labdanum and ginger. Its longevity and sillage are rated as good, though only a few votes back that up, so treat it as a rough guide. It reads as warm and full-bodied, and it suits both men and women. Tobacco and labdanum form the core: a resinous, woody, lightly smoky warmth. Ginger adds spice to that sweetness, while a citrus accord lightens the weight a little. The oriental character leads, so it suits anyone who likes a sweet, spicy scent. It shares a close profile with Zara Warm Black and Maison Alhambra Exclusif Tabac.

Oud Douce Amère

Sultan Pasha Attars

Floral · Green · Spicy

Sultan Pasha Attars Oud Douce Amère is a unisex oud scent that pairs a floral, woody and resinous character with animal and smoky undertones. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, though the vote counts are small, so these ratings are only a first impression. The dense structure suits cooler weather and evening wear, and it reads equally well on men and women. It opens with Persian rose absolute, frankincense, hyacinth and saffron. Toward the heart, Indian oud, tobacco and honey come in, while the floral side is softened by a green leafy note. In the base, Cambodian oud, myrrh, leather and white ambergris dominate, and the scent dries down to a resinous, smoky, slightly animal warmth. Sultan Pasha Attars Dewaniya and Amouage Epic Man have a close profile.

Jeke (2022) (Extrait)

Slumberhouse · 2022

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Slumberhouse Jeke is a unisex fragrance in which honey, caramel, whisky and rum meet smoke in a sweet, resinous body; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong, though the votes are few, so these ratings are tentative. It suits no one gender in particular, and as a dense, heavy scent it is easier to wear in cool weather and with a single spray. The sweet accord leads: honey, caramel and vanilla lay down a soft base. Whisky and rum add a boozy warmth to that sweetness, while tobacco and smoke pull it towards something dry and woody. Clove gives a spicy edge, and amber and benzoin add resinous depth.

Notre Flore - Cèdre

L'Occitane en Provence · 2007

Fresh · Citrus · Green

L'Occitane en Provence Notre Flore - Cèdre is a fresh, woody men's scent that sits best in summer and spring and in everyday wear; it has been discontinued. It opens with grapefruit and tree resin, giving a citrusy, green freshness. Tobacco and caraway bring a spicy warmth in the heart, and cedar with tonka bean settles the scent onto a soft, woody base. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, so it stays close without crowding the room. Voters place it mostly in summer and spring, for daily and leisure wear and for the office. Its profile is close to Azzaro Aqua Cèdre Blanc and Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse.

Tobacco Jam (2019)

Criminal Elements · 2019

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Criminal Elements Tobacco Jam (2019) is a unisex scent that pairs tobacco, raspberry jam and suede into something sweet, smoky and a little earthy. Tobacco and raspberry jam form the core: the fruity sweetness carries a gourmand warmth, while suede and hay settle it onto an earthy, woody base. Styrax adds a resinous, faintly smoky depth, and the spicy edge stays in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, though the votes are few, so those ratings are best read with caution. Its sweet, dense build suits cooler weather. Tobacco Jam (2016) and Kilian Old Fashioned have a close profile.

Tabac Mystique

Katana · 2024

Citrus · Floral · Green

Katana Tabac Mystique is a sweet, resinous unisex scent that softens the warmth of tobacco and honey with citrus and white florals; it has been discontinued. Voters rate both its longevity and its sillage as good, with longevity slightly ahead. The number of votes is small, so this impression is tentative. It reads as unisex, suiting men and women alike. The scent moves along as one piece: tobacco, tobacco absolute and honey build a sweet, creamy base, brightened by orange and citrus notes. Ylang-ylang, frangipani and white gingerlily add a soft floral touch, while Peru balsam, styrax and vanilla bring a resinous, gourmand warmth. Green and spicy accords round it out with a fougère feel.

Gothic Censored / Gothic Angel

O'Driù · 2016

Floral · Green · Fruity

O'Driù Gothic Censored / Gothic Angel is a unisex scent that sets a floral, resinous character against a smoky, woody base; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, though the sample is small, so these ratings are only a rough guide. The scent doesn't lean to either side and reads as unisex. The floral side comes from jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang and mimosa, softened by violet and lavender, while grapefruit and blackcurrant add a light fruity touch. Incense, frankincense, sandalwood and tobacco build the smoky, resinous part; amber, vanilla and musk sweeten it, and artemisia leaves a green edge.

Lust

OM Parfum · 2023

Fruity · Sweet · Synthetic

OM Parfum Lust is a dense unisex scent that sets fruity sweetness against spicy, smoky and animalic tones, and it leans towards fall and winter evenings. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and night out the favoured occasions. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. It sits between masculine and feminine rather than leaning either way. The fruity and gourmand accords come through in black cherry, caramel and Jamaican rum absolute. Whisky and oak barrel ground this in a woody, earthy base, while tobacco, suede and animalic notes add a leathery, smoky edge, and benzoin and tolu balm give it a soft resinous warmth.

The Silk Road / 丝绸之路

6.5

d'Annam · 2025

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

d'Annam The Silk Road / 丝绸之路 is a unisex scent that brings ginseng, spices and leather together with the warmth of tobacco and vetiver. The notes read as a single whole rather than a top, heart and base: spices and leather come forward, tobacco adds a smoky warmth, and vetiver sets an earthy, woody floor beneath them. The overall character is sweet and spicy, with an oriental, resinous side. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it makes itself known up close without filling a room. It reads neither strictly masculine nor feminine, and will feel familiar to anyone who likes leather and smoke. Chopard Oud Malaki and Elyon Himeros have a close profile.

As Dark Things Are Meant to be Loved

Alkemia · 2015

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Alkemia As Dark Things Are Meant to be Loved is a dark, oriental scent that lays smoke, resin and leather over a sweet, gourmand base, made for women. Longevity is rated good while sillage stays moderate, so it sits close to the skin and is noticed up close. Its spicy, woody character leans towards cooler weather and evening wear. Temple frankincense, bakhoor and Lapsang Souchong tea build a smoky, resinous ground, with Russian leather and oud adding a hard edge. Coconut, coffee and tonka bean sweeten that edge, while patchouli and black amber deepen the darkness. Tiziana Terenzi Chimaera and Birkholz Berlin Soul have a close profile.

Gold Leather

PK Perfumes · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

PK Perfumes Gold Leather is a unisex fragrance that builds a floral, sweet and resinous character around leather and oakmoss. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, though the number of ratings is small, so these figures are only a rough guide. It sits evenly between masculine and feminine wear. Leather, tobacco and smoke bush form the dry, smoky side, while jasmine, tuberose and ylang-ylang soften it with floral warmth. Mandarin orange and bergamot add a fresh citrus lift, and benzoin and tonka bean deepen the sweetness. Across this long list of notes, the scent stays woody and resinous. Chanel Allure Homme and Mark Buxton Black Angel have a close profile.

Bucaro Royal

nBitor · 2024

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

nBitor Bucaro Royal is a spicy, woody and smoky unisex fragrance that opens with bergamot and grapefruit and sets rose, raspberry and narcissus against tobacco in the heart. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong, though the number of votes is small, so these ratings are only a rough guide. There are no season or occasion votes, so nothing more specific can be said about when to wear it. It reads as unisex, neither clearly masculine nor feminine. Bergamot and grapefruit give a brief, bright start. In the heart, rose and raspberry add a fruity sweetness that narcissus and tobacco darken. The base of coumarin, oakmoss, gaiac wood, sandalwood and vanilla settles into a resinous, earthy ground, with castoreum strengthening the animal side. Grossmith Saffron Rose and Sospiro Classica have a close profile.

Eidolon

Ikiryō · 2018

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Ikiryō Eidolon is a unisex fragrance that leans towards evenings and nights, with a sweet, gourmand character. Fruity and gourmand accords lead: cherry wine and cognac sit alongside custard and cappucino. Tobacco and gaiac wood give it a woody, spicy base, while davana, nagarmotha and immortelle pull the sweetness towards a drier side. The notes have no separate top, heart and base, so it reads as one blended whole from start to finish. Voters find the longevity good and the sillage moderate. Nights out and evenings get the most votes, with leisure close behind. On character, votes lean a little feminine, though a fair share also call it masculine. Ikiryō Eidolon has a close profile to Amouage Sindbad and Parfums de Marly Althaïr Exclusif.

Porcelain Pulse

Roan · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Roan Porcelain Pulse is a unisex fragrance that opens fresh and green, then softens into tea, flowers and a warm hay-like base. The top holds carrot, rhubarb, pear, cardamom and black tea, with citrus and fruity accords keeping the start lively. In the heart, Darjeeling tea, peony, lily and dried apricot turn it sweeter and creamier. The base of vetiver, tobacco, musk, hay and amber leaves an earthy, lightly gourmand finish. Longevity and sillage are both moderate: present without being loud. The balance of fresh and sweet suits men and women alike. Laboratory Perfumes Gorse and Roja Parfums A Midsummer Dream have a close profile.

Black Huszar