The Perfume Library

Douce amère

7.7

Serge Lutens · 2000

Floral · Green · Sweet

Serge Lutens Douce amère is a unisex scent that softens a floral, green character with sweet, spicy and woody tones. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, though spring is not far behind. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, and it also works for daytime and the office. Most voters read it as feminine. Jasmine, tiaré and lily build a floral base, while tagetes and tiarella add a green edge. Cinnamon and aniseed bring spicy, lightly sweet warmth, and absinth gives that sweetness a sharper side. Cedar and musk leave a woody, powdery depth.

L'Eau Froide

7.0

Serge Lutens · 2012

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Serge Lutens L'Eau Froide is a unisex scent that reads fresh and citrusy, with aquatic and green touches and a spicy, smoky trace behind them. Spices and pepper sharpen its coolness, frankincense draws a smoky backdrop, and the mineral notes give it a cold, clean feel. Sweet notes soften the structure slightly, while the woody accord stays in the background. A synthetic edge also shows among the accords. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, leisure and the office lead the occasions. Votes on its character are split closely between masculine and feminine. Its profile is close to Parfums de Marly Percival and Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt.

Baptême du Feu

7.3

Serge Lutens · 2016

Citrus · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Baptême du Feu is a spicy, sweet unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most pick fall and winter, with spring and summer far behind. It suits evenings, nights out and leisure time. Votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine. Christopher Sheldrake is the perfumer. Cinnamon, clove and candied orange carry the scent. A citrus and fruity sweetness sits on a spicy, woody, resinous base, and the gourmand, oriental warmth gets a rougher edge from an animal touch.

Fumerie turque

8.0

Serge Lutens · 2003

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Serge Lutens Fumerie turque is a sweet, smoky unisex fragrance that pairs blond tobacco with honey and rose. Tobacco leads, honey softens and sweetens it, and rose stays in the background. The scent moves as a single piece from start to finish, with spicy, resinous and woody accords building a warm, leathery base. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen more for evenings and nights out. More voters read it as masculine, though as a unisex scent it suits either gender. Mémoire Archives Candle Lit Evening and Boucheron Oud de Carthage have a close profile.

Tubéreuse criminelle

7.5

Serge Lutens · 1998

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Tubéreuse criminelle is a sweet, spicy floral built around tuberose, jasmine and orange blossom, described as unisex. It lasts strongly and projects well. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind, and it is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out. Votes lean feminine, though a fair number call it masculine. The floral accord leads: tuberose, jasmine, hyacinth and orange blossom. Nutmeg and clove add spice, vanilla and styrax give a sweet, resinous base, and musk softens everything. Woody, oriental and animal tones sit behind the flowers. Serge Lutens Cèdre and Lattafa Pure Oudi have a close profile.

Sa majesté la rose

7.3

Serge Lutens · 2000

Fresh · Floral · Green

Serge Lutens Sa majesté la rose is a floral, sweet unisex scent that sets rose absolute against white honey and clove. Rose absolute leads, white honey sweetens it, and clove adds a light spice. Gaiac wood and musk form a woody, powdery base, while a fresh, green touch runs alongside the rose. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and evenings and nights out. Many read it as feminine, though it is presented as unisex.

Fourreau noir

8.0

Serge Lutens · 2009

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Serge Lutens Fourreau noir is a unisex scent built on tonka bean, musk and smoky notes, with almond and lavender adding a sweet, gourmand character. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out. Masculine and feminine votes sit very close together, so it wears comfortably on either. The notes have no top, heart and base split; the scent reads as one whole from start to finish. Tonka and almond set a sweet, gourmand ground, musk softens it, and the smoky notes and lavender bring a floral, spicy, woody fougère edge.

Louve

7.3

Serge Lutens · 2007

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Louve is a unisex scent where almond, vanilla and amber meet a sweet, gourmand, powdery floral core, and it suits autumn and winter evenings best. Most voters recommend Louve for winter and fall, and choose it for evenings and nights out. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Although it is unisex, more than half of voters read it as feminine. Almond leads at the top. In the heart, jasmine, rose and musk form a soft floral layer. In the base, vanilla, resins and amber sweeten and warm the scent. Fruity, spicy and woody tones stay in the background. Boadicea the Victorious Rouge Temptation and Bottega del Profumo Via del Corso, Roma have a close profile.

Vitriol d'Œillet

7.3

Serge Lutens · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Serge Lutens Vitriol d'Œillet is a fresh, spicy floral: the sharp, sweetish side of carnation, softened by a woody, powdery base, and it reads as unisex. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close to the skin without filling a room. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter, with summer well behind. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, and votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine. Carnation, gillyflower and clove lead the scent, while cayenne pepper adds a thin edge of heat over the floral core. The fresh, spicy start settles into a sweet, oriental and powdery warmth. Guerlain L'Heure Bleue (Eau de Parfum) and Il Profvmo Santal Rouge have a close profile.

Bas de soie

7.0

Serge Lutens · 2010

Fresh · Floral · Green

Cuir mauresque

7.7

Serge Lutens · 1996

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Cuir mauresque is a spicy, leathery unisex scent built on cinnamon, cumin and clove, warmed by amber and frankincense. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is chosen mostly for evenings and nights out. More voters read it as masculine, though it works as a unisex scent. A sweet, resinous warmth leads. Cinnamon, nutmeg and clove add spice, while frankincense, myrrh and styrax settle it onto a smoky, resinous base. Cedar and oud give it a woody frame, musk and civet add an animal depth, and orange blossom brings a soft floral touch.

Quasar (Eau de Toilette)

7.1

Jesus del Pozo · 1994

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Eau de Toilette

Jesus del Pozo Quasar Eau de Toilette is a fresh, green men's fragrance built on banana leaf, sage, lavender and patchouli; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daytime and business wear lead the occasions. Most voters read it as masculine. It opens with banana leaf and fruity notes that give a slightly sweet freshness. In the heart, sage, lavender, rosemary and geranium add a green, spicy edge. The base of patchouli, sandalwood, cedar and oakmoss leaves a woody footing, while citrus and aquatic accords keep the overall feel airy.

Rahät loukoum

7.6

Serge Lutens · 1998

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Rahät loukoum is a sweet, powdery unisex scent built around heliotrope, rose and tonka bean. Heliotrope and rose set a floral base, while white honey, vanilla and tonka bean turn it creamy and gourmand. Almond and cherry pit add a fruity edge, and the spicy, oriental accords keep it warm. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out. Voters mostly read it as feminine, though it is classed as unisex. Alexandre.J Imperial Peacock and Etro Heliotrope have a close profile.

Fleurs de citronnier

6.9

Serge Lutens · 2004

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Serge Lutens Fleurs de citronnier is a fresh, floral unisex scent that sets citrus brightness against a powdery, lightly sweet bouquet. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn some way behind and winter last. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, and also suits the office. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters read it as more feminine than masculine, though a fair share call it masculine. The notes read as one whole: lemon blossom and neroli carry the freshness, while tuberose and iris build a floral, powdery base. White honey and musk soften the sweetness, and nutmeg and styrax add a spicy edge. The green and fruity sides stay in the background.

Santal blanc

6.9

Serge Lutens · 2001

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Santal blanc pairs Indian sandalwood with jasmine, cinnamon and benzoin, giving a sweet, spicy and powdery unisex scent. Longevity is good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin. Most voters suggest fall and winter, with spring not far behind. Leisure and evening are the occasions picked most often. Feminine and masculine votes sit close together, so it wears comfortably either way. Sandalwood sets a creamy base, with jasmine and rose adding a soft floral side. Cinnamon and pink pepper bring the spice, while benzoin and copaiba balsam sweeten it with a resinous warmth. Orris root and musk keep the whole thing powdery and smooth.

Dent de Lait

6.7

Serge Lutens · 2017

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Serge Lutens Dent de Lait is a fresh, sweet and milky unisex scent that leans towards spring and relaxed leisure wear. Cashmeran, coconut, almond milk and Somalian frankincense read as one whole rather than separate layers. A fresh, floral side meets a powdery, creamy softness; the sweetness never turns heavy and stays in a milky texture, while the synthetic touch in the accords adds a clean look. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring, followed by summer and fall, and it suits leisure and daily wear best. Voters call it feminine more often than masculine, though plenty say masculine. Narciso Rodriguez For Her Pure Musc and Marc Jacobs Perfect have a close profile.

Chêne

7.6

Serge Lutens · 2004

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Chêne is a unisex scent that pairs a green, woody, smoky character with a sweet, resinous warmth, and it suits fall and winter evenings. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and leisure are the most common occasions. It is unisex, though most voters read it as masculine. It opens with black thyme, cedar and plant juice, which give it a green, earthy edge. In the heart, silver birch, oak, rum and beeswax build a woody, smoky core. In the base, tonka bean and coppice sweeten and soften it. Goutal Myrrhe Ardente and Tom Ford Oud Wood have a close profile.

Miel de bois

7.1

Serge Lutens · 2005

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Serge Lutens Miel de bois is a unisex scent that sets the sweetness of honey in a woody, floral frame, and it suits autumn and winter evenings. It has been discontinued. Honey and beeswax sit at the centre of the scent, while oak wood, ebony and gaiac wood give that sweetness a dry, woody base. Iris and hawthorn add a soft, powdery floral touch. Gourmand, spicy, resinous and animal tones also run through the accords. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters recommend autumn and winter, and it is chosen most often for evenings and nights out. More voters call it feminine than masculine, though a fair number find it masculine. Cartier L'Envol and Chanel Coco have a close profile.

Laine de Verre

6.5

Serge Lutens · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Serge Lutens Laine de Verre is a unisex fragrance with a fresh, citrusy and slightly synthetic character, best suited to spring and summer days and everyday wear. Laine de Verre has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, while winter sits well behind. Daily, leisure and office wear lead the occasions. It reads neither clearly masculine nor feminine, as the votes split almost evenly. Citrus notes and aldehydes give it a clean, bright start. Cashmeran and musk soften this and settle it onto a woody, lightly spicy base. Aquatic and green tones keep the coolness, while the synthetic side lends a cold, glassy sheen.

Rousse

7.5

Serge Lutens · 2007

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Serge Lutens Rousse is a sweet, spicy unisex scent in which cinnamon, nutmeg and mandarin orange sit over amber and cedarwood. Rousse is a fall and winter scent: most voters pick those two seasons, while summer trails far behind. It leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Voters split almost evenly between reading it as feminine and masculine. The scent as a whole is warm and gourmand. The spice of cinnamon and nutmeg is softened by the fruity brightness of mandarin orange, and amber adds a resinous sweetness. Cedarwood gives it a woody backbone, with a powdery texture behind. Giorgio Armani Armani Privé - Ambre Eccentrico and Ex Nihilo Sloane Ravers have a close profile.

Rauque

8.8

Roberto Greco · 2023

Floral · Green · Fruity

Roberto Greco Rauque is a unisex scent in which floral and green sit on an earthy, smoky, leathery ground; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. On character, masculine gets the most votes, with feminine not far behind. It opens with sweet acacia absolute, blackcurrant bud and violet leaf, a green, slightly fruity start. In the heart, narcissus, myrrh, mushrooms and osmanthus pull the floral side towards earth and resin. Pine tar, ambrarome and leather leave a smoky, animalic trail at the base. Its profile is close to Roberto Greco Œillères and Lubin Daïmo.

La dompteuse encagée

6.9

Serge Lutens · 2021

Fresh · Floral · Green

Chypre rouge

6.4

Serge Lutens · 2006

Green · Fruity · Sweet

Serge Lutens Chypre rouge is a sweet, honeyed chypre with patchouli underneath, unisex and best suited to fall and winter evenings. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is worn most often in the evening and on nights out. It does not lean to one gender, with votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. It opens with thyme and pine needle, green and resinous. Jasmine, honey and beeswax sweeten the heart. The base of patchouli, amber, vanilla, musk and moss settles into an earthy, woody warmth.

Sarrasins

7.9

Serge Lutens · 2007

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Sarrasins is a unisex floral that leans towards evenings and nights out, and towards fall and spring. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters suggest it for evening and night-out wear, while office and daily use stay in the background. It reads slightly more feminine than masculine, though a good share of votes call it masculine. Blossoms set the opening, then jasmine and carnation settle into the heart, with musk underneath. The accords are floral and sweet, with spicy, animal and powdery sides added. Serge Lutens Fils de joie and Al Rehab Jasmin Musk have a close profile.