The Perfume Library

Rouge Smoking (Eau de Parfum)

8.0

bdk Parfums · 2018

Fruity · Sweet · Synthetic

Eau de Parfum

bdk Parfums Rouge Smoking Eau de Parfum is a feminine fragrance that opens with bergamot, pink pepper and cherry, then turns sweet with vanilla and heliotrope, its fruity, gourmand side leading. Its longevity and sillage are both rated as good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with few choosing summer, and it is favoured most for evenings and nights out. Most voters read it as feminine, and some see it as modern. It opens with the brightness of bergamot and pink pepper meeting the fruity sweetness of cherry. In the heart, vanilla absolute and heliotrope push it towards a creamy, powdery feel. The base settles into white musk, tonka bean and labdanum, with cashmeran and ambroxan adding a spicy, lightly smoky warmth.

Suma Oriental

7.8

Une Nuit Nomade · 2015

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Une Nuit Nomade Suma Oriental is a unisex fragrance that sets cocoa, rum and patchouli on a woody base, sweet and spicy in character. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is chosen mainly for evenings and nights out. It sits between masculine and feminine, with votes split almost evenly. The top opens with cocoa, rum and cypriol, gourmand and spicy. Patchouli in the heart brings the earthy, smoky side. In the base, cashmere wood, sandalwood, gaiac wood, tonka bean and musk leave a sweet, resinous warmth.

Mr. Vetiver

7.2

Une Nuit Nomade · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Une Nuit Nomade Mr. Vetiver is a fresh, green and earthy men's fragrance that opens with citrus and settles on a woody vetiver body. It projects at a moderate level, and its longevity is rated good. Most voters pick spring and fall, and leisure, daily wear and business are the occasions named most often. It reads masculine and classic. Grapefruit and lime give a bright start, while tarragon, basil and cardamom add a green, spicy edge. Geranium sits in the heart, and vetiver, moss and amberwood build an earthy, woody base, with chili adding a touch of warmth. Tom Ford Grey Vetiver and Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand have a close profile.

Black Tar

8.0

Parfumerie Particulière

Floral · Synthetic · Spicy

Parfumerie Particulière Black Tar is a smoky, resinous unisex scent built around Indian tuberose, labdanum and Canary Islands juniper; it has been discontinued. Tuberose carries the floral side, but labdanum's resinous warmth, clove's spice, gaiac wood and the dry woodiness of vetiver sit right beside it. Patchouli and moss lay down an earthy, smoky, leathery base, while the synthetic accord gives the scent a hard, almost artificial edge. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and very few choose summer. It leans towards evenings, leisure time and nights out, and is chosen less for work or daytime. Most voters read it as masculine, though classic and feminine votes are also present. Montale Greyland and Comme des Garçons Black Comme des Garçons have a close profile.

Rouge Assassin

7.2

Jovoy · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Jovoy Rouge Assassin is a powdery, sweet floral with a feminine character, setting rose on a soft, resinous and woody base. It opens with rose and bergamot, and the heart of rice powder, ambrette and elemi resin adds a powdery, lightly spicy softness. In the base, vanilla, tonka bean and benzoin sweeten the scent, while musk, iris, cedar and sandalwood give that sweetness a woody frame. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it leans towards daily wear, leisure and the office. Over half of voters read it as feminine. Avon Natori (Eau de Parfum) and Francesca Bianchi Angel's Dust have a close profile.

Cèdre

8.1

Les Eaux Primordiales · 2022

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Les Eaux Primordiales Cèdre is a unisex scent that leans towards fall, spring and winter, suiting evenings as well as daytime; it sets a floral, sweet and spicy character on a woody base. Most voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Fall comes first, with spring and winter close behind and summer well back. It is picked for evening and night out, but daily and business wear are not far off. Votes split between masculine and feminine, so it sits comfortably on either side. It opens with pink pepper and thyme, then moves into plum, immortelle absolute and rose at the heart, sweet and resinous in feel. The base of saffron, Australian sandalwood, vanilla and ambroxan leaves a creamy, woody warmth. Widian Sahara and Agatho Castiamanti have a close profile.

Mécanique Intuitive

7.9

Les Eaux Primordiales · 2016

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Les Eaux Primordiales Mécanique Intuitive is a sweet, spicy unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings best. It opens with black tea and osmanthus, with tobacco and rum at the heart. In the base, tonka bean, leather and Bourbon vanilla dry down warm and leathery. Floral and powdery touches soften the woody, resinous oriental body. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it leans towards evening and night-out wear. It reads somewhat more masculine, though many find it feminine. Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours and Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman have a close profile.

Yapana (2013)

8.0

Volnay · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Volnay Yapana (2013) opens with red grapefruit, pink pepper and Italian bergamot, then settles into a sweet, powdery, spicy and resinous scent made for women. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close without filling a room. Most voters pick autumn, followed by spring and winter, and it leans towards evening and leisure wear. Most voters find it feminine. The first spray is bright with citrus and pepper. The heart brings powder, rose, ylang-ylang and clove into a floral, spiced sweetness. The base of patchouli, labdanum, benzoin and vanilla turns warm, woody and resinous. Téo Cabanel Alahine and Baldi Malachite have a close profile.

Ylop

7.1

Sora Dora · 2024

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Carios

5.8

Parfums de Marly · 2025

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Parfums de Marly Carios opens on saffron, red mandarin orange and pink pepper, then settles onto cedarwood and vetiver, giving a fresh, spicy fragrance aimed at men. Most voters pick it for autumn, with spring and winter next and summer trailing. It leans towards evenings and nights out, though daily wear sits close behind. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Voters call it masculine and modern. The top notes of saffron, red mandarin orange, pink pepper and bergamot give a bright, fruity and peppery start. Red thyme, black pepper and geranium carry the spice into the heart. In the dry-down, roasted tonka bean sweetens things while cedarwood and vetiver give a woody base. Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L'Homme Bleu Électrique and Maison Margiela On a Date have a close profile.

Encens Asakusa

7.7

L'Orchestre Parfum · 2017

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

L'Orchestre Parfum Encens Asakusa is a unisex scent built around iris and frankincense, mixing a fresh side with a smoky one. Powdery iris and violet set a floral base, while frankincense and myrrh add a resinous, lightly smoky depth. Pink pepper brings spice, cypress a woody freshness, and white musk softens it all. The overall feel is fresh and sweet rather than heavy. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, though spring is close behind. It leans towards leisure and evening wear. Feminine and masculine votes are nearly even, so it reads as truly unisex. Nuit Marine and Amber Echo have a close profile.

Fleur de Sable

7.9

Liquides Imaginaires · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Liquides Imaginaires Fleur de Sable is a unisex scent that carries a fresh, spicy opening of vetiver, elemi resin and pink pepper into a soft base of myrrh and iris. Its longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and fall, though it also works in summer and winter. Leisure and business are the most chosen occasions. It reads more feminine to most voters, though a fair number find it masculine. The opening of vetiver, elemi resin, pink pepper and mandarin orange is fresh, green and citrusy. In the heart, spices, bell pepper and eglantine rose add a floral, spicy turn. The base of black pepper, myrrh and iris settles into a powdery, resinous, woody sweetness.

Heliaca

7.6

Le Couvent · 2019

Fresh · Sweet · Spicy

Le Couvent Heliaca is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, sweet opening on a spicy, woody and resinous base. Bergamot gives a bright, fresh start. In the heart, cardamom and ginger bring the spice forward, with the sweetness sitting behind them. Oud in the base adds an oriental depth and a woody weight. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn, then winter, and it is worn for leisure, evenings and nights out. Most voters find it masculine, though a good share call it feminine. Yas Perfumes Taj and Xerjoff Zefiro have a close profile.

Une Verveine

7.7

Obvious · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Obvious Une Verveine is a fresh, citrusy unisex scent that leans towards spring and summer days, with lemon and bergamot over a green, spicy backdrop. It opens with Italian lemon, Italian bergamot, lemon vervain and French mugwort, a sharp but green freshness. In the heart, juniper berry, cardamom and ginger add a spicy warmth, while sweet and creamy accords soften the citrus. Haitian vetiver and Habanolide® settle it onto an earthy, clean base. Longevity and sillage are moderate, so it stays close to the skin rather than filling a room. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it is chosen mostly for leisure, daily wear and the office. Feminine and masculine readings are close, so it doesn't lean firmly either way. Those after a similar profile could also look at Affinessence Gingembre-Latte and Le Jardin Retrouvé Verveine d'Été.

Electric Wood (Eau de Parfum)

6.9

Room 1015 · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

Room 1015 Electric Wood Eau de Parfum is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, spicy opening of nutmeg, sage and lemon with a woody heart of cedarwood and oak wood. Lemon and nutmeg lead at the start, with sage adding a spicy, faintly herbal edge. In the heart, cedarwood and oak wood give the scent a woody frame. The base of ambroxan, iris and musk softens it into something powdery, lightly sweet and a little synthetic. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Voters lean towards autumn and spring, and name leisure, daily wear and the office as the settings that suit it. More voters call it masculine than feminine, though a good share read it as feminine.

Paradis Perdu

7.2

Frapin · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Frapin Paradis Perdu is a fresh, woody unisex scent that sets bright citrus against a green, earthy backdrop. It opens with mandarin orange, bergamot and grapefruit in a sharp citrus layer. In the heart, galbanum, basil and vine bring out the green side, while elemi resin adds a faint resinous touch. In the base, vetiver, labdanum and moss pull the scent toward something woody, earthy and slightly smoky. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, fall and summer, with winter far less favoured. It leans toward leisure, daily wear and the office. On character, masculine edges ahead, with feminine close behind. Tom Ford Italian Cypress and Olfactive Studio Autoportrait have a close profile.

Id

7.7

Mendittorosa · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Mendittorosa Id is a unisex scent that suits fall and winter evenings, pairing a sweet, spicy character with a smoky, woody base. It opens with ravansara, then moves into a floral-spicy heart of nutmeg, clove, jasmine, iris and violet. The base of Ceylonese cinnamon, labdanum, oud and birch turns resinous and smoky, while ambroxan and white musk soften the edges. Longevity is rated strong and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions. Voters split almost evenly between masculine and feminine. Mendittorosa Alfa and Perfumer H White Smoke have a close profile.

Aqua Amantia

7.2

Le Couvent · 2020

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Le Couvent Aqua Amantia is a fresh, citrusy fragrance whose floral and fruity side is softened by a light sweetness, and it suits spring and summer days. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, so it stays close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick summer and spring, and leisure, daily wear and the office are the occasions named most often. It reads mainly feminine, with a modern character too. Grapefruit gives the opening a bright, slightly sharp freshness. At the heart, ambrette seed absolute and rhubarb bring floral, fruity and lightly spicy shades. Cedar sits underneath as a warm, woody base.

Thé Darbouka

7.1

L'Orchestre Parfum · 2017

Fruity · Sweet · Synthetic

L'Orchestre Parfum Thé Darbouka is a unisex scent built on cocoa, candied fruits and oud, where a sweet, fruity side meets resinous woods. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. It is chosen mostly for evenings, leisure time and nights out. It leans masculine for more voters, though a feminine reading is strong too. Cocoa and candied fruits set the sweetness, while bergamot lifts it slightly. Immortelle, oud and styrax add a woody, resinous depth, and caraway leaves a spicy trace. Powdery and synthetic tones also run through the overall impression.

Vanuatu (Extrait de Parfum)

7.2

Sora Dora · 2021

Fresh · Floral · Green

Extrait de Parfum

Sora Dora Vanuatu Extrait de Parfum is a fresh, green and spicy unisex scent that leans towards spring and fall, and towards leisure and workdays. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays noticeable on you without filling a room. Most voters pick spring and fall, and leisure and business are the occasions it is most often linked to. Though unisex, it is most often read as masculine. Bergamot, rhubarb and violet leaf bring a crisp freshness that sits alongside the spicy warmth of cardamom, cumin and black pepper. Patchouli, Atlas cedar and Australian sandalwood build a woody base, while fig milk and violet soften it with a creamy, floral touch.

French Bouquet

7.1

bdk Parfums · 2019

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

bdk Parfums French Bouquet is a unisex scent in which Moroccan rose, Tunisian orange blossom and Italian bergamot give a fresh, floral opening over a chypre base of vetiver and oakmoss. Its longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters lean towards spring and fall, then winter, and most often pick it for a night out or leisure time. Most voters read it as feminine or classic. Coriander and bergamot brighten the first impression, while Moroccan rose, Jasminum auriculatum and orange blossom turn the heart soft and floral. The base rests on Haitian vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli and sandalwood; tonka bean and musk add sweetness, and Spanish labdanum brings a resinous warmth. Violet and Cuban tobacco lend a powdery, spicy edge. Prada Infusion d'Oeillet and Le Labo Myrrhe 55 have a close profile.

Hattaï

7.6

Le Couvent · 2019

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Le Couvent Hattaï is a sweet, spicy and gourmand unisex fragrance built around red pepper, cocoa, cade juniper and cinnamon. It opens with the sharp warmth of red pepper; cocoa in the heart softens it and brings the gourmand side forward. The base of cade juniper and cinnamon settles into a woody, resinous, oriental spice warmth laid over the sweetness. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters recommend fall and winter, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. Some find it feminine and others masculine, so it doesn't lean firmly either way. Its profile is close to M2J Fragranza Pura Eleganza and Parfums de Marly Oajan.

Atramental

7.0

Room 1015 · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Synthetic

Room 1015 Atramental is a spicy, smoky unisex scent that suits fall and winter, leisure days and evenings out; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated good and its sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, spring follows closely, and summer is chosen least. On character, the masculine reading leads. It opens fresh with bergamot, lemon and cistus, softened by aquatic notes. Black pepper and cardamom bring the spice in the heart. In the base, castoreum, resins and saffron add a woody, leathery, slightly animal warmth. Room 1015 Atramental x Sang Bleu and Montale Aoud Ever have a close profile.

Objet Céleste

7.6

Volnay · 2013

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Volnay Objet Céleste is a floral, sweet and powdery fragrance with gourmand and lightly spicy touches, written for women and soft yet full in character. Voters rate its longevity as good and its sillage as moderate, so it is noticeable up close without filling a room. Spring and fall lead the season votes, with winter close behind. Leisure, evening, daily wear and office all draw similar support, and most voters call it feminine and classic. It opens with grapefruit, Italian bergamot and clary sage for a fresh start. Peony and jasmine give the heart a soft floral feel. In the base, vanilla, almond, powder, clove and patchouli take over, and the scent turns sweeter, settling into a powdery, resinous warmth. Serge Lutens Louve and Ted Lapidus Oud Blanc have a close profile.