The Perfume Library

Memoir Woman (Eau de Parfum)

8.3

Amouage · 2010

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Amouage Memoir Woman Eau de Parfum suits cold seasons and evenings out: a spicy, woody, leathery take on a floral perfume. Most voters pick winter and fall, and lean towards evening and night-out wear; daily and office use get far fewer votes. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Though classed as feminine, some voters read it as masculine or classic. It opens with mandarin orange, cardamom, absinth and pink pepper for a spicy brightness. The heart brings clove, black pepper, rose, jasmine and white blossoms together with dark woods and frankincense. The base of labdanum, leather, oakmoss and castoreum dries down sweet, animalic and smoky.

Chambre Noire

7.7

Olfactive Studio · 2011

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Olfactive Studio Chambre Noire is a unisex scent that opens on pink pepper and settles into sandalwood, leather and vanilla, balancing a fruity sweetness with a smoky, woody base. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and very few choose summer. Evenings and nights out lead, though it also works for leisure. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters read it as masculine, though a fair share find it feminine. Pink pepper sits at the top. The heart brings jasmine, plum, papyrus, frankincense and violet, with plum adding fruit and frankincense a resinous touch. The base of sandalwood, leather, musk, patchouli and vanilla weighs heaviest, leaving a sweet, earthy, leathery finish. Estēe Lauder Amber Mystique and Tom Ford Extreme (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

Fate Woman (Eau de Parfum)

7.9

Amouage · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Amouage Fate Woman Eau de Parfum is a spicy, resinous and smoky oriental whose floral heart rests on a sweet, deep base, suiting evenings and nights out best. Most voters place it in fall and winter, with evening and night out the favourite occasions. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, and most voters read it as feminine. It has been discontinued. It opens with pepper, cinnamon, bergamot and chili, a sharp spiciness. Rose, jasmine and narcissus bring a soft floral note to the heart, while frankincense and labdanum add resinous weight. In the base, vanilla, benzoin, patchouli, leather and oakmoss settle into a sweet, animal, powdery ground. Its profile is close to Estēe Lauder Cinnabar and Yves Saint Laurent Opium.

Bois Datchaï

7.5

Maison Crivelli · 2018

Fresh · Green · Fruity

Maison Crivelli Bois Datchaï is a unisex fragrance built around black tea absolute, leather and cedar, with a strong green and spicy side that suits leisure wear in spring and fall. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, and leisure and daily wear lead the occasions. Votes for masculine and feminine character are close, so it sits comfortably on either. Blackcurrant bud absolute gives a fresh, green, slightly fruity start, cinnamon adds spice, and patchouli brings an earthy depth. Leather and cedar form a woody, smoky base, while black tea absolute softens it with a dry, faintly sweet tone. Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade and Friedemodin Feu Follet have a close profile.

Angel Eau Sucrée 2014

8.0

Mugler · 2014

Fresh · Fruity · Sweet

Mugler Angel Eau Sucrée 2014 is a feminine scent that joins a fresh, fruity opening to a powdery gourmand sweetness. It opens with a red berry sorbet that feels cool and fruity. In the heart, caramel syrup and meringue turn it sweet, and patchouli and vanilla in the base leave an oriental warmth and a soft, powdery finish. Longevity and sillage are rated as good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. It suits leisure time, evenings and nights out, and most voters read it as clearly feminine. It has been discontinued. Montale Rendez-vous à Moscou and Comptoir Sud Pacifique Vanille Amande have a close profile.

Les Jeux sont Faits

7.6

Jovoy · 2013

Fruity · Sweet · Spicy

Jovoy Les Jeux sont Faits is a sweet, spicy men's fragrance built around tobacco, Cuban rum and patchouli; it has been discontinued. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and lean towards evenings and nights out. Both its longevity and its sillage are rated good. Most see it as masculine, while some call it classic. The top opens with gin, dried fruits and angelica, giving a fruity, sweet start. In the heart, tobacco, cumin and Cuban rum add a spicy, smoky tone. The base of patchouli, cistus, sandalwood, labdanum and vanilla settles into a resinous, earthy, woody warmth.

Figment Woman

6.9

Amouage · 2017

Fresh · Floral · Green

Amouage Figment Woman is a floral scent built around gardenia, tuberose and jasmine sambac, made for women and now discontinued. It opens with gardenia, saffron and Sichuan pepper side by side, the spice adding a little warmth to the fresh flower. In the heart, ylang-ylang, orange blossom and cassia join in, turning it into a green, creamy bouquet. The base of papyrus, frankincense, iris and patchouli sets the flowers on a powdery, woody, earthy footing. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn not far behind; leisure leads the occasions, closely followed by evenings and nights out. About half of voters call it feminine, and some call it classic. Hermès Hiris and Prada Purple Rain have a close profile.

Bentley for Men Black Edition

7.6

Bentley · 2018

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Bentley for Men Black Edition is a fresh, citrusy and woody men's scent that opens on tangerine, violet and pink pepper and rests on Atlas cedar. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters suggest spring, fall and summer, with fewer picking winter. It leans towards business and daily wear, and less towards evening or nights out. More than half of voters read it as masculine, and some call it classic. The top notes of tangerine, violet, pink pepper and nutmeg pair citrus with spice. Towards the heart, jasmine, patchouli and papyrus add a green, earthy tone. The base settles into dry woods, Atlas cedar, moss, tonka bean and frankincense, softened by musk.

Stilettos on Lex

7.6

Jul et Mad · 2012

Fresh · Floral · Green

Jul et Mad Stilettos on Lex is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, floral and green character with a soft, powdery sweetness, and it suits spring and summer days best. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn not far behind. Daily wear, leisure and office lead the occasions, while evening and night out draw fewer votes. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters read it as feminine. Escada Loving Bouquet and Ineke After My Own Heart have a close profile. It opens with plum liqueur, lemon and pear for a fruity brightness. The heart brings iris, heliotrope, rose absolute, violet leaf and lily of the valley, floral and powdery. It dries down to Indonesian patchouli, musk, Bourbon vanilla and Atlas cedar, which add a woody warmth.

Terrasse à St-Germain

7.6

Jul et Mad · 2012

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Jul et Mad Terrasse à St-Germain is a unisex perfume that leans towards spring and summer days: fresh, citrusy and floral, easy to wear in daytime. It opens with rhubarb, tangerine and grapefruit, bright and a little tart. The heart brings blue rose, lotus and freesia, floral and green in a light way. The base of musk, sandalwood and Indonesian patchouli settles it into a powdery, creamy, softly woody finish, with fruity and sweet touches along the way. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays noticeable close by without filling a room. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily, office and leisure wear lead the occasions. Just over half of voters read it as feminine, though it is presented as unisex.

Amour de Palazzo

7.9

Jul et Mad · 2012

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Jul et Mad Amour de Palazzo is a warm unisex scent that pairs a sweet, spicy core with woody, leathery and smoky tones, suited to fall and winter evenings. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evenings and nights out leading the occasions, while summer is rarely chosen. Masculine and feminine votes run close, so it sits between the two. It opens with nutmeg, ginger, pepper and clove in a spicy start. Indonesian patchouli, violet absolute, leather and labdanum come forward in the heart, and castoreum, oud and amber settle it into a sweet, resinous, earthy warmth. LM Parfums Black Oud and Rasasi Dhanal Oudh Nashwah have a close profile.

J'ai Fait Un Rêve - clair / J'ai fait un rêve - elle

7.8

Majda Bekkali · 2010

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Majda Bekkali J'ai Fait Un Rêve - clair / J'ai fait un rêve - elle pairs a fresh, floral character with a woody, resinous and faintly smoky base, and is a perfume for women. The top holds petitgrain, elemi resin, cumin and blackcurrant leaf, giving a fresh, green start with a spicy edge. Ylang-ylang, jasmine and neroli bring a soft floral heart. The base settles into papyrus, labdanum, frankincense, musk and Atlas cedar, which read woody, powdery and resinous. Longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, and daily wear, leisure and business lead the occasions. Half of the voters call its character feminine. Amouage Dia Man and Grossmith Sylvan Song have a close profile.

Naomagic

7.4

Naomi Campbell · 2000

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Naomi Campbell Naomagic opens with fresh bergamot and orange and settles into a sweet, powdery floral of jasmine, violet and vanilla; it is made for women and has been discontinued. The opening brings bergamot, orange, green leaves and cardamom, a fresh start with a light spicy edge. Jasmine, violet, lily of the valley and almond make up a sweet floral heart. Cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean and musk close it as a woody, powdery base. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Votes for the four seasons are close, with spring slightly ahead. Daily wear, office and leisure lead the occasions. Most voters find it feminine and modern.

1885 Bains Sulfureux

7.5

Les Bains Guerbois · 2017

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Les Bains Guerbois 1885 Bains Sulfureux is a unisex scent that pairs a sweet floral body with a resinous, smoky texture, and it leans toward fall and winter days. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall, winter and spring, while summer gets a small share. It suits leisure and daily wear best, yet it also finds a place in the evening and at the office. The masculine and feminine votes sit close together, so it wears comfortably on either. Mandarin orange, rosemary, blackcurrant and bergamot give it a fresh opening. At the heart, orange blossom and jasmine take over. The base builds a warm, resinous floor from labdanum, frankincense, vanilla and benzoin, with sandalwood, patchouli and tonka bean softening it into something woody and sweet.

Le Paradis de L'Homme

8.0

Hayari · 2014

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Hayari Le Paradis de L'Homme is a masculine fragrance that softens a green, woody character with sweet, spicy and leathery touches. Most voters recommend it for fall and winter, though plenty also wear it in spring. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and it works for business and daily wear too. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, and voters call it above all masculine and classic. It opens with redwood; in the heart, papyrus, vetiver and Atlas cedar build a woody, earthy base. In the base, leather, sandalwood, moss and musk dominate, while resinous and smoky tones deepen the character. Jovoy Private Label and Amouage Memoir Man have a close profile.

Exquise Tentation (Eau de Parfum)

6.6

L'Atelier Parfum · 2021

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Eau de Parfum

L'Atelier Parfum Exquise Tentation Eau de Parfum is a unisex scent where bergamot, blackcurrant and rose sit over vanilla and praliné, leaning floral and gourmand. It opens bright and fruity with bergamot, pink pepper and blackcurrant. Freesia, lily of the valley, iris and rose give the heart a soft floral feel. In the base, bitter almond, vanilla, patchouli and praliné sweeten the scent into a creamy, gourmand finish, with a synthetic sheen in the background. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind. Evening, night out and leisure are the occasions it suits best. About half of voters find it feminine, though it is classed as unisex. Aubusson Radiant Iris and ELLE Mira have a close profile.

Bravo Monsieur

7.6

El Ganso · 2019

Floral · Green · Sweet

El Ganso Bravo Monsieur is a woody, powdery men's fragrance that softens a floral and green core with spice and sweetness. It opens with cardamom, grapefruit, frankincense and violet, then moves to a heart of lavender, iris, papyrus and geranium that reads floral and green. The base of musk, cashmere wood and vanilla settles into a creamy, sweet footing, with sandalwood rounding out the woody side. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it leans towards daily wear, leisure and the office. It reads as masculine. Bon Parfumeur 302 Ambre Iris Santal and Gucci The Virgin Violet have a close profile.

Cœur de Pétales (Eau de Parfum)

7.1

L'Atelier Parfum · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Eau de Parfum

L'Atelier Parfum Cœur de Pétales Eau de Parfum is a fresh, floral unisex scent that suits spring and summer days. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and choose it for leisure, daily wear and the office. It reads mostly feminine, though many also call it modern. The top opens with lychee, bergamot and Sichuan pepper, and the heart is led by lily of the valley, peony, rose and jasmine. Raspberry and almond sweeten the base. The overall impression is fresh, citrusy, lightly powdery and fruity. Guerlain Idylle and Detaille Akuri have a close profile.

Goldy (Eau de Parfum)

7.0

Hayari · 2012

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Hayari Goldy Eau de Parfum is a powdery, creamy floral with sweet, spicy and woody tones, and a soft character aimed at women. It lasts well and projects at a moderate level, so it keeps you company through the day without leaving a heavy trail. Most voters pick spring and fall, though winter and summer are not far behind. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, and can also work for evenings and the office. Most voters find it feminine, and some read it as classic. Rosemary and artemisia give a fresh, lightly herbal opening. In the heart, orange blossom, narcissus and jasmine form the floral body. Musk, cedar and sandalwood settle it onto a woody, creamy, powdery base. Joop! Le Bain Eau de Parfum and Isabey Lys Noir have a close profile.

Pivoine Flora (Eau de Parfum)

7.5

L'Occitane en Provence · 2011

Fresh · Floral · Green

Eau de Parfum

L'Occitane en Provence Pivoine Flora Eau de Parfum is a fresh, green floral that leads with peony, with a light, powdery spring feel, made for women. It opens with the bright, fruity freshness of grapefruit and bergamot. In the heart, peony, violet and magnolia build the floral body, and the powdery, green side comes from these flowers. The base adds vanilla sweetness, cedar gives a woody footing, and musk softens everything. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and daily wear, leisure and the office come up most. Its character is mostly voted feminine. Those after a similar profile could also look at Georges Rech Muse Poudrée and M. Asam Pfingstrose.

2013 Résidence d'Artistes

7.3

Les Bains Guerbois · 2018

Fresh · Floral · Green

Les Bains Guerbois 2013 Résidence d'Artistes is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, green floral character with fruity and spicy touches, drying down powdery and leathery. It opens with bergamot, mandarin orange and peach for a bright, fruity start, with cardamom adding a light spice. In the heart, papyrus, violet and jasmine bring a powdery, green-tinged floral side. The base settles into leather, patchouli and sandalwood, a woody, leathery ground softened by musk. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, though summer and winter also get votes. It leans towards leisure, office and daily wear, and less towards evenings and nights out. Feminine and masculine votes are close, so it reads as truly unisex. Gianfranco Ferré Gieffeffe and Jil Sander Simply (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Criminal of Love

7.9

Kilian · 2014

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Kilian Criminal of Love opens with cardamom and turmeric spice, then moves through rose and woods into a floral, sweet, smoky unisex scent; it has been discontinued. Guatemala cardamom and turmeric give it a spicy start. At the heart, Indian papyrus, Atlas cedar and Turkish rose absolute join floral and woody tones. The base of Serbian immortelle absolute, Somalian frankincense and Indonesian patchouli settles into an earthy, smoky, oriental sweetness. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter close behind and summer rarely chosen. Evening and night out are the favoured occasions. Votes on masculine and feminine character are close. Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme and Sisley Soir d'Orient have a close profile.

Green Patchouli

7.6

Comptoir Sud Pacifique · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Comptoir Sud Pacifique Green Patchouli is a unisex scent where citrus and green freshness meet a lightly spicy, woody base, leaning towards spring and summer and relaxed everyday wear. Most voters pick spring and summer, and it is chosen mostly for leisure and daily wear, with some room for the office too. Longevity and sillage are moderate, leaving a calm, close trail. Masculine and feminine votes are split evenly, so it sits comfortably between the two. It opens with peppermint and bergamot, bringing coolness and a bright citrus edge. The heart of lavender, lily of the valley and Atlas cedar builds a soft, green, woody texture. In the base, sandalwood, cashmere wood and patchouli add a creamy, slightly sweet warmth. Issey Miyake Fusion d'Issey Extrême and Initio Wild Rush have a close profile.

Porto Vintage

7.2

Gustave Eiffel · 2016

Citrus · Fruity · Sweet

Gustave Eiffel Porto Vintage is a unisex scent built on the spicy sweetness of aniseed, cardamom and candied orange. It opens with aniseed and cardamom softened by candied orange. In the heart, cinnamon, ginger and clove add a spicy warmth. The base of patchouli, gingerbread and musk carries it to a sweet, gourmand finish, and the citrus and fruity accords stay present within that sweetness. Voters find the longevity strong and the sillage good, though the vote count is small, so treat those ratings loosely. It is chosen most for evenings, then leisure and nights out, with business and daily wear well behind. Feminine and masculine votes run close, with classic following. Its profile is close to Serge Lutens Baptême du Feu and Costume National Homme.