The Perfume Library

Youth-Dew (Eau de Parfum)

7.7

Estēe Lauder

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Estēe Lauder Youth-Dew Eau de Parfum opens with lavender, jonquil and rose and dries down to vetiver, patchouli and moss, a floral and spicy oriental. The top holds lavender, jonquil and rose, while spices, jasmine and lily of the valley sit in the heart. The base is vetiver, patchouli and moss. The accords point to a sweet, woody, powdery and resinous scent, with animal, earthy and smoky shades adding weight. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Most voters call it feminine or classic. Estēe Lauder Cinnabar (1978) (Eau de Parfum) and Yves Saint Laurent Opium (Secret de Parfum) have a close profile.

J•H•L (Cologne)

8.0

Aramis · 1982

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Aramis J•H•L is a spicy, sweet men's cologne from 1982 that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. It opens with lemon, bergamot and orange, with pimento adding a spicy edge. The heart brings clove, cinnamon, rose and fir, so floral and spicy sides run together. In the dry-down, vanilla, labdanum, patchouli and sandalwood settle it onto a sweet, resinous, woody base, with smoky and leathery tones in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evenings and nights out leading. It reads masculine and classic. Perfumes with a close profile include Paris Corner Mysterium and Acqua di Parma Oud & Spice.