The Perfume Library

21 perfumes

Myrrh Casati

Maison Mona di Orio · 2014

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Maison Mona di Orio Myrrh Casati is a unisex scent built on myrrh and frankincense, spiced with saffron and cardamom into something woody and smoky; it has been discontinued. Myrrh, frankincense and benzoin lay down a resinous base, while saffron, cardamom and pink pepper add a spicy edge. Gaiac wood and patchouli bring a woody, earthy tone, and liquorice softens the dryness slightly. The whole stays dark and oriental from start to finish. Voters find the longevity good and the sillage moderate, so it sits fairly close rather than filling a room. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evenings and nights out lead the occasions. Masculine and feminine votes run close, so it reads as sitting between the two.

Incense

7.5

Franck Boclet · 2013

Fresh · Sweet · Spicy

Franck Boclet Incense is a spicy, woody and smoky scent, with a resinous sweetness and a fresh edge, best suited to autumn and winter evenings. Its longevity and sillage are both moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring in second place and summer well behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and is also worn for leisure. It is made for men, and most voters find it masculine. It opens with cinnamon, pink pepper, cardamom and black pepper for a spicy start. In the heart, benzoin softens the scent with a resinous sweetness. The base of gaiac wood, ebony and sandalwood sets a woody, smoky foundation.

Leather

7.5

Franck Boclet · 2013

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Franck Boclet Leather is a smoky, spicy men's fragrance built on leather and oud, suited to fall and winter evenings. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and it is worn mostly in the evening and on nights out, though business and leisure wear also appear. It reads masculine and classic. It opens with lemon, saffron and cumin, fresh but already spiced. Clove, jasmine and rose in the heart add a floral sweetness. As it dries, leather, oud and amber take over and settle into a resinous, smoky warmth.

Cedar Atlas

7.6

Première Note · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Première Note Cedar Atlas is a fresh, woody unisex scent that sets the brightness of grapefruit and cardamom against the dry warmth of cedar, patchouli and leather. It opens with grapefruit, cardamom and pepper, a citrusy, spicy freshness. Jasmine, Bulgarian rose and violet leaf bring a soft floral and green heart. In the base, cedar, patchouli and leather come forward, and the scent settles into a resinous, leathery woodiness. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and it sits easily in daily wear and at the office. Voters read it as more masculine, though as a unisex it suits anyone. Jardin de France Dur à Cuir and Armand Basi Wild Forest have a close profile.

Orange Calabria

7.4

Première Note · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Première Note Orange Calabria is a fresh, lightly sweet unisex scent that sets citrus against a floral and green backdrop; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are rated moderate, so it neither stays close to the skin nor fills a room. Most voters recommend summer and spring, and it sits comfortably in leisure, daily and office wear, with little pull toward evenings. More voters call it feminine, though a sizeable share read it as masculine. Calabrian orange leads, with Paraguayan petigrain adding a green, slightly bitter edge. Egyptian jasmine and Tunisian orange blossom soften the citrus and fill it out with a floral sweetness. The overall impression is fresh, fruity and clean.

Java Wood

7.1

Première Note · 2014

Fresh · Green · Sweet

Première Note Java Wood pairs Haitian and Java vetiver with tobacco, cumin and star anise, making a fresh, green and smoky unisex scent. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn, with spring and winter close behind and summer last. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, though evening and office also get votes. It reads slightly more masculine than feminine, but a good share of voters call it feminine. It opens lively and spicy with star anise, Sichuan pepper and bergamot. In the heart, violet leaf's green note meets tobacco and cumin, and the base settles on two vetivers, earthy and woody, with sweet and smoky tones in the background.

Patchouli

7.3

Franck Boclet · 2013

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Franck Boclet Patchouli is a sweet, gourmand oriental, classed as a men's fragrance, where spice, resin and an earthy woodiness run through the sweetness. It opens with cedar, patchouli and sandalwood, a woody, earthy footing. In the heart, amber, benzoin and tonka bean push it towards the resinous and sweet, and vanilla with white musk softens the base into a powdery warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evening and night out lead the occasions, though some also wear it by day or to the office. Most voters read it as masculine. Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114 and Réminiscence L'Incroyable Patchouli have a close profile.

Oud

7.3

Franck Boclet · 2013

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Franck Boclet Oud pairs a spicy opening of cumin, ginger and clove with oud and a woody base, and is aimed at men. Cumin, ginger and clove carry the spice at the top, with oud in the heart and cedar and patchouli underneath. The accords balance a fruity, sweet, gourmand side against spicy, smoky, resinous and leathery tones, settling into an earthy, woody texture. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, and summer is rarely chosen. It is worn most for night outs and evenings, then for leisure, and is suggested less for the office. It reads as a masculine scent. Zara Exclusive Oud and Gucci Gucci Intense Oud have a close profile.

Rosa Damas

7.1

Première Note · 2014

Fresh · Floral · Green

Première Note Rosa Damas is a fresh, floral, rose-centred unisex fragrance that leans towards spring and summer days. Rosa Damas has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are rated moderate. Most voters pick spring, then summer, and daily wear, leisure and business are the settings that come up most. Most voters read it as feminine, though it is classed as unisex. Damask rose and eglantine rose lead the scent, with Peruvian pink pepper adding a spicy edge to the florals and amber leaving a soft warmth underneath. Green and powdery facets, along with a woody texture, keep the rose light rather than heavy. Balenciaga Florabotanica and Montale Intense Pepper have a close profile.

Lys Toscana

7.5

Première Note · 2014

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Première Note Lys Toscana is a unisex scent built around Italian bergamot, lily and Tunisian orange blossom, softened by sandalwood; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are both rated moderate, so it neither disappears on the skin nor fills a room. Voters pick it most for daytime and leisure, then for the office, while evening and night-out wear sit further behind. Citrus and fresh accords set the first impression: bergamot brings brightness, while lily and orange blossom form a floral heart. Green and fruity touches add a little sweetness, and sandalwood leaves a woody, powdery base with a faint spicy edge.

Orchid Version

7.0

Horseball · 2010

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Horseball Orchid Version is a floral perfume for women: tuberose, jasmine and ylang-ylang fill the heart, while vanilla and patchouli set it on a sweet, powdery base. It opens with bergamot, blackcurrant and pink pepper, which read fresh, fruity and lightly spicy. In the heart, tuberose, jasmine and ylang-ylang come forward, rich and full, and the early brightness gives way to warmth. The base of vanilla, patchouli and sandalwood softens everything, leaving a sweet, powdery, oriental trail. Floral and sweet accords lead, with the spice staying in the background. Widian Hili and Téo Cabanel Alahine have a close profile.