The Perfume Library

Mētāl (Parfum)

8.2

Rabanne · 1979

Fresh · Floral · Green

Rabanne Mētāl opens with green notes, aldehydes and lemon over a heart of rose and jasmine: a fresh, powdery chypre for women, now discontinued. At the start, green notes, aldehydes, lemon and basil give a sharp freshness, while hyacinth softens it towards the floral. The heart is led by rose, jasmine, tuberose and iris, giving the scent a powdery, floral face. In the base, oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood and musk dry down to a woody, green, lightly spicy chypre character. Voters rate its longevity as good and its sillage as moderate. Most pick spring, autumn and summer, and daily wear and the office get the most votes. Most voters read it as feminine, though a fair number call it classic. Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and Rabanne Calandre have a close profile.

Sikkim (1971) (Eau de Parfum)

8.1

Lancôme · 1971

Citrus · Floral · Green

Empreinte (1971) (Eau de Toilette)

8.5

Courrèges · 1971

Fresh · Floral · Green

Courrèges Empreinte (1971) Eau de Toilette is a green, floral chypre for women that sets a fresh opening of peach, aldehydes and bergamot against oakmoss and patchouli; it has been discontinued. It opens cool and green with peach, aldehydes, artemisia, coriander and bergamot. The heart turns floral with jasmine, iris and rose, while melon adds a light fruity touch. The base is dry and woody, built on patchouli, oakmoss, cedar and sandalwood, with castoreum and amber lending a leathery, spicy warmth. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring and fall, and daily and business wear lead the occasions. Most see it as feminine, though a fair share call it masculine. Sisley Eau de Sisley 2 and Rochas Eau de Rochas (1970) have a close profile.

Quiproquo

8.3

Grès · 1976

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Grès Quiproquo is a fresh, green chypre led by oakmoss, sandalwood and cedar, made for women and now discontinued. It wears with good longevity and moderate sillage, staying fairly close to the skin. Most voters pick spring, summer and fall, with winter far behind. It is mostly chosen for leisure, work and everyday wear. Though released as a women's perfume, voters split between reading it feminine and masculine. Bergamot, lemon and orange give a citrus brightness, joined by the green, spicy tones of lavender and marjoram, with clove and geranium sharpening the edges. Patchouli, vetiver and oakmoss build the chypre frame, while sandalwood, cedar, rosewood and frankincense add a dry, woody, resinous base with a leathery touch.