The Perfume Library

Hot (1990) (Cologne)

7.7

Bill Blass · 1990

Floral · Green · Sweet

Bill Blass Hot (Cologne) is a floral, green chypre with spicy and resinous warmth, made for women and now discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring not far behind, and it is worn for evenings, nights out and leisure. Voters mostly call its character feminine and classic. It opens fresh with aldehydes, bergamot and green notes. The heart is floral: rose, jasmine, tuberose and orris root give it a powdery base, while cinnamon and white honey add a spicy, sweet warmth. In the base, patchouli, amber, sandalwood and oakmoss settle it into a woody, resinous chypre. Jean Patou Sublime and Halston Halston have a close profile.

Ambre Destan

7.8

Anka Kuş Parfüm · 2021

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Anka Kuş Parfüm Ambre Destan is a resinous, spicy unisex scent that leans towards autumn and winter evenings. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good. Most pick autumn and winter, and evening and night-out wear lead the occasions, with leisure and daily use close behind. Feminine and masculine votes sit near each other, so it carries no strong gender lean. It opens with bay leaf and vanilla; the heart gathers angelica, amber, benzoin and coriander. The base rests on sandalwood, labdanum, frankincense resin and patchouli. The overall feel is sweet and resinous, with green, earthy and smoky shades keeping that warmth dry and woody. Parfums Vintage Sandal Amber and Mancera Hindu Kush share a close profile.

Insignia

8.0

Thameen · 2022

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Thameen Insignia is a unisex fragrance that opens with bitter orange, fig and whisky and carries damask rose and bay leaf in its heart, with a fresh, green, leathery character. At the start, the citrusy brightness of bitter orange meets the fruity side of fig, while whisky adds a slight edge. In the heart, damask rose, bay leaf and geranium keep things floral and green. Vetiver, sandalwood and suede settle into a woody, spicy, leathery base. Longevity and sillage are both rated good, and a fair share of voters score each of them high. Being unisex, it reads comfortably on both men and women. Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay and Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir have a close profile.

Forest of the Golden Dream

8.5

Parfums Quartana · 2023

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Escada Sport Country Weekend

6.9

Escada · 1996

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Escada Sport Country Weekend is a unisex scent that sets a fresh, fruity opening of pot marigold and apple over a woody base of cedar and cashmere wood; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, with autumn close behind. It leans towards leisure and daily wear, and it also works at the office. Votes for masculine and feminine are equal, so it sits between the two. Pot marigold and apple lead the opening, and the fresh, citrus and green accords dominate. In the heart, jasmine, cinnamon and bay leaf bring floral and spicy touches, while mahogany adds woody depth. In the base, nutmeg, cedar and cashmere wood settle it into a spicy, woody dry-down.

Santal 1952

8.8

Jinx · 2024

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Jinx Santal 1952 is a floral, woody unisex fragrance that sets several sandalwoods against jasmine, gardenia and Anatolian rose; it has been discontinued. It opens fresh, spicy and slightly green with pineapple, cardamom, green pepper and bay leaf. The heart turns creamy and oriental through jasmine sambac, gardenia, frangipani and tobacco. Mysore, Ceylonese and Australian sandalwood meet Mongolian deer musk in the base, leaving an animal, earthy trace. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong, though few have voted. Its dense, rich character suits bold wear.

22.22

8.3

Les Folies du Parfum · 2022

Fresh · Floral · Green

Les Folies du Parfum 22.22 is a unisex scent that pairs a fresh, green start with a floral, lightly sweet and spicy body, suited to spring and summer days and relaxed daily wear. The top notes of bergamot, mint and cardamom bring freshness and spice, while cedar adds a dry woodiness. In the heart, tuberose, gardenia and honeysuckle build a full floral core, and bay leaf keeps the green thread going. The base of musk, vanilla and tobacco softens and sweetens it, with driftwood leaving a dry trace. Longevity and sillage are rated good. Most voters pick spring and summer, though autumn is close behind. It is chosen most for leisure and evenings, and it also works at the office. Perris Monte Carlo Tubéreuse Absolue and L'Occitane en Provence Barbotine have a close profile.

Kahwa

6.0

Boadicea the Victorious · 2021

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Boadicea the Victorious Kahwa is a unisex scent built around coffee, jasmine sambac and Bulgarian rose, set in a spicy frame with strong woody and green sides. Longevity and sillage are both rated as good, though the number of votes is small, so these ratings are only a rough guide. There are no season or occasion votes, so all that can be said is that it is unisex and reads neither clearly masculine nor feminine. The top notes of clove, ginger, saffron and cardamom give a spicy opening, while eucalyptus and bay leaf add a fresh, green edge. At the heart, coffee, jasmine, neroli and rose bring a floral softness. The base of Cambodian oud, patchouli, cedarwood, oakmoss and amber settles into a woody ground. Knize Knize Two and Heeley Chypre 21 have a close profile.

Horla

7.5

January Scent Project · 2020

Fresh · Floral · Green

January Scent Project Horla is a fresh, floral scent that sits most comfortably in spring and autumn, its green and spicy edges resting on a sweet, animalic base. Bergamot, aldehydes and bay leaf give Horla a fresh, green start, while ylang-ylang and viburnum blossom carry the floral side. Vanilla, milk and almond add a creamy sweetness. Patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood and civet bring a woody, animalic depth, and the accords include a synthetic edge as well. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters suggest autumn and spring, with winter next and summer chosen least. It leans towards leisure and evening wear. Although it is unisex, voters read it as more feminine than masculine. Tauer Perfumes № 14 - Noontide Petals and Le Jardin Retrouvé Sandalwood Sacré have a close profile.

Perle Rare Homme Black Edition

6.5

Panouge · 2016

Fresh · Aquatic · Fruity

Panouge Perle Rare Homme Black Edition is a men's fragrance that sets a fresh opening of basil, bay leaf and lime over a sweet base of tonka bean and amber. It opens green, fruity and crisp with basil, bay leaf, apple and lime. In the heart, marine notes, juniper berry and Provençal lavender bring out the aquatic and spicy sides. The base turns sweeter with tonka bean and amber, while oakmoss and gaiac wood give it a dry, woody edge. A synthetic touch runs through the accords. Longevity and sillage are rated moderate, though the number of votes is small, so those ratings are tentative. Its fresh, aquatic character suits everyday wear, and it reads as masculine. Swiss Arabian Shaghaf for Men and La Rive Brave have a close profile.

Emerald

8.2

Orientica

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Cambridge Knight (Eau de Parfum)

7.3

English Laundry · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Eau de Parfum

English Laundry Cambridge Knight Eau de Parfum is a men's fragrance that opens fresh and citrusy, with grapefruit, blackcurrant and marine notes. Longevity and sillage are both moderate, though the vote counts are small, so these figures are only a rough guide. It is rated well for value. Positioned as a men's scent, its fresh, aquatic character suits everyday wear. The top brings together lily, musk, grapefruit, blackcurrant and marine notes, giving a fruity, slightly sweet freshness. In the heart, gaiac wood, jasmine and bay leaf add a spicy, woody turn. The base of oakmoss, cedar and patchouli settles it onto a dry, woody footing. Rabanne Invictus (Eau de Toilette) and Sober Mercury No̱ 80 have a close profile.

Fortuitous

7.7

Boadicea the Victorious · 2015

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Boadicea the Victorious Fortuitous is a unisex scent that opens with cherry, coconut and lemon and sweetens towards sandalwood and vanilla. The top pairs cherry, coconut, almond and bergamot for a fruity, gourmand start. In the heart, geranium, rose, jasmine and fir balsam bring floral and resinous tones, with coriander adding a spicy edge. The base of sandalwood, cedarwood, labdanum, musk, vanilla and amber leaves a creamy, powdery, oriental warmth. Most voters pick fall and winter, and link it mostly to evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Rasasi Qasamat Morhaf and Kajal Joorie have a close profile.

Citrus Tea

8.1

Dossier

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Dossier Citrus Tea is a unisex scent built around black tea, fig and bergamot, reading fresh, citrusy and green. It opens with black tea, fig and bergamot together. The heart brings tobacco, vetiver and jasmine, while hay and cedarwood settle the base into a woody, slightly smoky footing. Floral and fruity touches soften the fresh feel, with a spicy tone staying in the background. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, and its value for money is rated highly. It sits comfortably between masculine and feminine. Le Labo Thé Noir 29 and Grauton Parfums Ceylongrau have a close profile.

Esprit d'Amouage

7.6

Amouage · 2004

Fresh · Floral · Fruity

Amouage Esprit d'Amouage is a fresh, floral women's perfume whose fruity sweetness is balanced by spice and an oriental warmth; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong, while sillage stays moderate. Most voters place it in daytime, leisure and business wear, with evening and night out further behind. Apricot, cardamom, bay leaf and red berries open fruity and spicy. The heart turns to magnolia, jasmine, freesia and rose, a floral garden feel. The base of sandalwood, labdanum, vanilla, benzoin and amber leaves a sweet, warm finish.

Lush Linen

6.8

Fugazzi

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Fugazzi Lush Linen is a fresh, green unisex scent best suited to spring and fall, for work or leisure; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin. Most voters pick spring, fall and summer, and few choose winter. Leisure and business are the occasions it leans towards, followed by daily wear. It opens with grapefruit and pink pepper, with cotton, Bulgarian rose and bay leaf in the heart. Violet, moss and white musk sit underneath. The accords are fresh, citrus and floral, joined by green, spicy and woody touches and a creamy softness.

Sculpture Sea Fever

7.5

Nikos · 2026

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Nikos Sculpture Sea Fever is a fresh, green and aquatic unisex scent built on basil, water mint and cardamom set against citrus. Bergamot and grapefruit give the opening a bright lift, while basil and water mint carry the green side and cardamom adds a light spice. In the heart, star anise, bay leaf, ivy and violet leaf keep the herbal, spicy mood going. The base settles into sandalwood, cedarwood and patchouli, a woody ground under the freshness. Voters rate both its longevity and its sillage as good, though the vote count is small, so those ratings are tentative. Its fresh, aquatic character points to easy everyday wear. Parfums de Marly Sedley and Creed Himalaya have a close profile.

Sloth

7.0

OM Parfum · 2023

Fresh · Floral · Green

OM Parfum Sloth is a unisex scent that moves from a fresh, green, spicy start to a leathery, earthy and resinous base. It opens herbal and airy with bay leaf, tarragon, thyme and New Zealand lavender. In the heart, patchouli, leather and cypress lead, while lily of the valley and geranium soften the edges. The base of oakmoss, styrax and castoreum leaves a creamy, animalic, resinous warmth. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Voters don't favour one season, though fall and spring lead slightly. It is picked mostly for leisure time and evenings out. St Giles The Mechanic and Balenciaga Portos (Eau de Cologne) have a close profile.

Captain Molyneux (1994) (Eau de Toilette)

7.8

Molyneux · 1994

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Molyneux Captain Molyneux (Eau de Toilette) is a masculine fougère that sets a fresh opening of bergamot, lemon and lavender over a base of cedarwood and moss; it has been discontinued. Its longevity and sillage are moderate. Voters place it equally in daytime, leisure and business settings, with evening chosen less often. It reads clearly masculine. It opens fresh and green with bay leaf, aldehydes and citrus. The heart adds a spicy edge through cinnamon, carnation and geranium, while clary sage and spruce deepen the woody side. The base of cedarwood, moss and tonka bean settles dry, earthy and slightly leathery. Dunhill Edition and Azzaro pour Homme share a close profile.

Catch Up

7.0

Liur. · 2023

Fresh · Sweet · Gourmand

Liur. Catch Up is a unisex fragrance that ties a fresh, sweet opening to a spicy, woody base, with a powdery touch. Its longevity and sillage are rated as good, though only a small number of votes stand behind those ratings. There are no season or occasion votes, so nothing can be said on that front. Its unisex profile suits both men and women. The top carries bergamot, pepper, lavender and clove, while the heart holds bay leaf and floral notes. The base leans on oud, pine and Peru balsam, rounded out by woods and tree moss. The fresh, spicy opening settles into something sweeter and woodier. Dolce & Gabbana The One Gentleman (Eau de Toilette) and Parfums de Marly Pegasus have a close profile.

Coyote (Perfume Oil)

7.6

For Strange Women

Fresh · Green · Spicy

Perfume Oil

For Strange Women Coyote Perfume Oil is a unisex scent that leans towards leisure and everyday wear, opening fresh and green before settling into a smoky, earthy woodiness. Most voters place it in leisure, daytime and business settings, with evening wear close behind. Its longevity and sillage are moderate, so it stays noticeable on the skin without filling a room. Masculine and feminine votes are nearly level, which leaves it balanced between the two. Neroli and bergamot give a light, fresh opening. Bay leaf and patchouli bring a green, earthy heart. In the base, spices, musk and wood smoke take over, and the scent settles into a resinous, smoky woodiness.

Le Puy-En-Velay 4

8.9

The Dua Brand

Green · Sweet · Spicy

The Dua Brand Le Puy-En-Velay 4 is a unisex scent that pairs a green, spicy start with a resinous, woody and faintly smoky sweetness. Cardamom, bay leaf and sage give it a green-spicy frame, lightened a little by bergamot. Sandalwood, labdanum and benzoin lay down a resinous, woody base, while vanilla and rum sweeten it. Grasse rose and May rose stay in the background, and musk softens the whole. Voters rate its longevity as very strong and its sillage as strong. The sample is small, so this is only a tentative picture, but its rating is high as well. It sits comfortably on either masculine or feminine skin and leaves a clear trail. Its profile is close to Pierre de Velay No. 4 and Ikiryō Damn Hippie.

Rising Mysore 2

8.1

Dixit & Zak

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Dixit & Zak Rising Mysore 2 is a unisex scent where jasmine sambac, lavender and citrus lead and settle into Indian sandalwood and vanilla; it has been discontinued. The top is led by jasmine sambac, lavender, orange and lemon, giving a fresh, citrusy, green opening. In the heart, ylang-ylang, Ceylonese cinnamon, star anise and tuberose add spice to a warm floral core. The base rests on Indian sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla absolute, leaving a sweet, woody, resinous finish. Longevity and sillage are both rated good, and most voters rate longevity high, though the vote count is small. Dixit & Zak Rising Mysore 3 and Perito Moreno Regal Silhouette have a close profile.

Reporter (Cologne)

7.7

Oleg Cassini · 1978

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Oleg Cassini Reporter is a fresh, green and spicy fragrance for men, pairing a bright citrus lift with a woody, faintly smoky base. Its longevity and sillage are rated as good, though these ratings rest on only a few votes. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it leans towards leisure and daytime wear, with evenings also possible. It opens sharp and clean with rosemary, lavender, bergamot and bay leaf. In the heart, jasmine, cinnamon and pine add floral and spicy tones. It dries down to moss, cedarwood and amber, which give it an earthy, resinous depth.