The Perfume Library

Han Jo

7.8

Nebiru Parfvms · 2025

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Nebiru Parfvms Han Jo is a unisex scent that sets a floral heart against a smoky, leathery and animalic base. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong, so it lasts and makes itself known. Most voters pick autumn and winter, spring follows, and summer gets only a small share. It is chosen for nights out, evenings and leisure time. It opens with Italian bergamot and sudachi, with birch tar and clary sage alongside. The heart is orris butter, jasmine, ylang-ylang and two roses. The base of beaver tail oil, castoreum, amber and vanilla settles into a warm, slightly sweet animalic finish.

Los Vientos de Santa Ana

7.4

Anka Kuş Parfüm · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Aquatic

Anka Kuş Parfüm Los Vientos de Santa Ana is a unisex scent that ties a fresh, citrusy opening to a smoky, earthy woodiness. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Voters lean towards fall and spring, and name leisure, evening and business as the occasions it suits. It reads slightly more masculine than feminine, though it draws feminine votes too, in line with its unisex character. It opens with bitter orange and orange blossom. In the heart, ambergris, amber and aquatic notes keep it cool, while the base of vetiver, gaiac wood, cypress and birch tar sets down a woody, resinous, smoky floor. Aquatic freshness and earthy dryness sit side by side. Gallivant Naples and Heeley Cardinal have a close profile.

This Ember

7.9

Anka Kuş Parfüm · 2021

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Anka Kuş Parfüm This Ember is a sweet, smoky unisex scent suited to fall and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, and evenings, nights out and leisure time lead the occasions. Votes split almost evenly between feminine and masculine, so it leans toward neither. It opens on musk, then Kashmiri musk, vanilla, rose and amber build a sweet warmth in the heart. The base of labdanum, frankincense, Chinese oud, cinnamon and birch tar adds a resinous, spicy, smoky depth. Floral and animal accords round out the oriental structure.

Vicki-Lin

7.7

TSVGA · 2020

Green · Spicy · Woody

TSVGA Vicki-Lin is a green, woody and smoky forest scent led by cade juniper, hemlock fir needle and pine resin. It reads as one dense, resinous woodland: birch tar adds a smoky darkness, while fern and lemon grass bring a green, fresh streak. The animal and earthy accords add weight, and pistachio softens the rough edges a little. Voters find both its longevity and its sillage strong. Most pick winter and autumn, and it leans towards leisure and evening wear. It is unisex, though voters read it as somewhat more masculine. It has been discontinued.

Ashka

8.2

Not Perfumes · 2018

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Not Perfumes Ashka is a spicy, woody and smoky unisex fragrance, dark and austere, with resinous, earthy and leathery tones. It opens with gaiac wood, cubeb and gun powder; galbanum, cypriol, tobacco and frankincense add a resinous depth in the heart. The base is dominated by birch tar, oud and ash smoke, with woody notes and Canary Islands juniper rounding out the dry, earthy ground. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter; it leans towards evenings and nights out, and is also worn for leisure. Voters call it masculine more often than feminine, though the feminine share is sizeable. Le Labo Oud 27 and Rook Perfumes Rook have a close profile.

Alpha

7.2

G Parfums

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

G Parfums Alpha is a woody, smoky and leathery fragrance for men, best suited to the cooler seasons and to evenings out. In Alpha, sandalwood, cedar, leather and oud build a woody frame, while birch tar and frankincense pull it towards smoke and resin. Saffron adds a spicy warmth and patchouli an earthy edge. Civet, castoreum and musk bring out the animalic side, and Peru balsam and ambergris soften the harder edges. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick winter and fall, and very few choose summer. Leisure and evening wear lead the occasions. Most voters read it as masculine, and some call it classic. Rook Perfumes Rook and Montale Black Musk have a close profile.

Diamond of Velvet

7.1

Régalien · 2019

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Régalien Diamond of Velvet is a unisex scent where saffron, birch tar and leather meet a sweet, fruity floral heart. The top is violet leaf, orange, saffron and peach, with a fruity sweetness up front. In the heart, heliotrope, osmanthus and iris add a powdery floral softness, while spikenard and ginger bring an earthy, spicy edge. The base darkens with birch tar, leather and patchouli, and tonka bean and styrax close it on a sweet, oriental warmth. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Voters pick it most for evenings and nights out, then for leisure; the largest share calls it masculine, though a good number find it feminine. Zara LTH/03 Know the Leather and David Jourquin Cuir de R'Eve have a close profile.

Eye of God

7.8

YLEM · 2025

Green · Synthetic · Spicy

YLEM Eye of God is a smoky, resinous unisex fragrance that opens on birch tar, oud and Sichuan pepper. It starts hard and smoky, with birch tar and oud alongside Sichuan pepper and styrax. In the heart, nutmeg, cotton candy and false sandalwood soften that edge, while labdanum, amber, vanilla and moss build a resinous, earthy base. Green and synthetic accents sit beside the woody, leathery character. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Voters wear it mostly in the evening and on nights out, then for leisure, and less for daytime or the office. It suits men and women alike and reads as a dense, heavy scent.

Spectre

8.4

French Avenue · 2024

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

French Avenue Spectre is a dark, smoky, leathery and resinous unisex fragrance; it has been discontinued. It opens with saffron and labdanum, spicy and resinous. Birch tar in the heart adds a smoky, earthy edge, and the base settles into benzoin and oud, woody and oriental in feel. The animal accord rounds out this heavy texture with a leathery side. Longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with spring trailing behind. It leans towards night-out and evening wear, and can also be worn for leisure. Dior Purple Oud and Kilian Pure Oud have a close profile.

Murasakino

7.7

ATon · 2024

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

ATon Murasakino is a floral, smoky unisex scent that sets chamomile, neroli and jasmine against tobacco absolute and Cambodian oud. It opens on chamomile, neroli, jasmine and ylang-ylang, a floral start. In the heart, peach adds a sweet, fruity softness while civet absolute, tobacco absolute and oud bring the animal, earthy and smoky side forward. The base of lavender absolute, saffron, birch tar and blackcurrant dries down resinous, leathery and chypre-like. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, though the number of votes is small, so these ratings are only a guide. Its dense, layered build suits someone who wants a scent with character rather than a plain everyday one. It shares a close profile with Robert Piguet Bandit and Guerlain Santal Royal.

Lunar

8.1

Boadicea the Victorious · 2012

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Boadicea the Victorious Lunar is a unisex scent that sets a floral, spicy character over a sweet, woody and smoky base. It opens with citrus fruits, and the heart builds a floral spine from geranium, lavender, rose, jasmine and neroli, with clove and cinnamon adding spice. In the base, sandalwood, amber and patchouli weigh most; birch tar and animalic notes give it a smoky, creamy, powdery warmth. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick winter and fall, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure. Votes tilt slightly feminine, with a fair share calling it masculine. Fendi Theorema and Guerlain Santal Royal have a close profile.

L'Homme M. LaCroix

7.8

Rogue · 2022

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Rogue L'Homme M. LaCroix is a green, woody and powdery unisex scent built around oakmoss, thyme and sandalwood, suited to leisure hours and evenings out. The notes read as one whole rather than in stages: the fresh citrus of bergamot and lemon, the green of thyme and petitgrain, and the powdery floral side of iris and rose absolute. Oakmoss, vetiver and patchouli ground it in an earthy base, while birch tar and labdanum add a leathery edge. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn and spring, with winter not far behind. Leisure, night out and evening lead the occasions, though daily and business wear also get votes. It leans masculine and classic in character. Gucci pour Homme and Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel have a close profile.

Rain Moss

7.5

Perfumer H · 2021

Fresh · Floral · Green

Perfumer H Rain Moss is a fresh, green unisex fragrance that suits autumn and spring days; it has been discontinued. The top opens with white cyclamen, lavender, Persian galbanum and rose, which read fresh, floral and green. In the heart, French angelica, patchouli, Russian clary sage and moss pull it towards earthy and spicy ground. Haitian vetiver, birch tar and cedar leave a woody, faintly smoky base. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and spring, and leisure and business wear lead the occasions. Though unisex, most voters find it masculine.

Midnight Stag (Eau de Parfum)

7.4

Chiseled Face

Synthetic · Spicy · Woody

Eau de Parfum

Chiseled Face Midnight Stag Eau de Parfum is a smoky, leathery and earthy men's fragrance with a hard, synthetic edge. The scent leaves a dark, heavy impression: Russian leather and birch tar come first, while smoke, fuel and lubricating oil add a synthetic, almost industrial feel. Oakmoss and cedar set a woody, earthy base; bergamot and Canary Islands juniper loosen the harshness a little, and vanilla softens the resinous side. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with spring not far behind, and evening and leisure wear lead. Voters read it as masculine and classic.

Heart of Darkness

7.3

Timothy Han Edition Perfumes · 2019

Fresh · Floral · Aquatic

Timothy Han Edition Perfumes Heart of Darkness is a unisex scent that suits spring and fall, leisure hours and evenings, setting a fresh, green side against a smoky one. Rain accord, ozonic notes and galbanum give it a cool, green opening, while ylang-ylang and jasmine soften it with flowers. Towards the heart, birch tar, embers, cedar and leather come forward, turning the scent smoky and woody. Patchouli, soil and moss then settle into a dry, earthy base. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, though few voters have rated these two. Voters place it most often in spring and fall, then summer. Masculine and feminine votes are equal, so it sits between the two. Dior Fahrenheit (Eau de Toilette) and Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui (Eau de Toilette) have a close profile.

Orient Treasure

7.9

Langé · 2015

Fresh · Citrus · Synthetic

Langé Orient Treasure is a woody, spicy fragrance for men built around leather, birch tar and oud, with a fresh touch of citrus lifting the dark core. The scent reads as a single piece from start to finish. Leather and birch tar set a smoky, animalic, earthy base, and oud adds resinous depth. Grapefruit zest lays a crisp, fresh citrus edge over this heavy mix, while the spicy and oriental sides stay in the background. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall, though summer and spring also draw a fair share of votes. It leans towards leisure and evening wear and can also work at the office. Most voters find it masculine. Montale Aoud Cuir d'Arabie and SweDoft Cambodian Oud have a close profile.

Fôm

7.7

Lorenzo Pazzaglia

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

Lorenzo Pazzaglia Fôm is a unisex fragrance with a dense character, setting a sweet, gourmand side against a smoky, leathery and resinous frame. Its longevity and sillage are both rated strong, though the vote count is small, so those ratings deserve some caution. It leaves a clear trail and wears heavy and warm, equally at home on men and women. Caramel, vanilla, rum and whisky build a sweet, boozy side. Against it, birch tar, leather, oud and oakmoss bring a smoky, earthy weight. Labdanum, frankincense and myrrh add resinous depth, oak wood and cedarwood complete the woody base, and bergamot loosens the density slightly.

Oud Maximus Autumn '19

8.8

Bortnikoff · 2019

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Bortnikoff Oud Maximus Autumn '19 is a floral, spicy and woody unisex fragrance where rose and oud take the lead; it has been discontinued. It opens with bergamot, cardamom and pink pepper, bright and lightly spiced. May rose, Indian rose and clove dominate the heart. The base joins Indian, Vietnamese and Borneo oud with tolu balm, vanilla and birch tar, leaving an animalic, resinous depth. Voters find its longevity and sillage strong. Its dense build suits cooler seasons and evenings, and it reads masculine and feminine alike. Bortnikoff Oud Maximus (2020) and Bortnikoff Attar Oud Maximus have a close profile.

Midnight Toker (2025)

8.0

Heretic · 2025

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Heretic Midnight Toker (2025) is a sweet, smoky unisex scent that opens on clove and cypriol and settles into blond tobacco, vanilla and birch tar. The top pairs clove with cypriol for a spicy, slightly woody start. In the heart, jasmine, apricot and orris root soften that edge: the apricot adds a fruity sweetness, the orris root a powdery depth. The base is led by labdanum, vanilla, blond tobacco, clove tobacco and birch tar, so it dries down between sweet and smoky. Longevity and sillage are rated good, though few people have voted so far, so those ratings are tentative. It is made for any skin, masculine or feminine. Pineward Velvetine (2021) and Arquiste No. 57 have a close profile.

Black Tea

7.9

Murdock

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Murdock Black Tea is a fresh, spicy and smoky men's fragrance that wraps black tea in clove and nutmeg. The top pairs clove, nutmeg, Indian black tea and Egyptian basil, giving a citrusy, green, spicy opening. In the heart, leather, Egyptian geranium and Jasminum auriculatum add a soft floral touch. The base rests on Indonesian patchouli, Virginia cedar, birch tar and Mysore sandalwood, a woody, smoky foundation sweetened by musk and amber. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and spring, with leisure, daily wear and business settings leading. Most see it as masculine and classic. Atkinsons 41 Burlington Arcade and Absolument Homme have a close profile.

Lèche-Flamme

7.2

Jimmy Bodin

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Jimmy Bodin Lèche-Flamme is a unisex scent that sets fruity sweetness against smoke and resin, a dark character where gourmand and smoky accords sit side by side. It opens with dried fruits and tobacco; the sweetness is there from the start, with a spicy edge alongside. In the heart, cognac and smoke take over, and the fruity side softens into a gourmand warmth. The base of birch tar and gaiac wood leaves a woody, resinous, smoky ground. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong, though with few votes these ratings are only a rough guide. Its dense build suits cooler weather and evenings better. It reads neither masculine nor feminine, just heavy and smoky. Aroma Karelia (red) and Slumberhouse Baque share a close profile.

Office

7.8

Strellson · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Strellson Office is a men's fragrance that sets the fresh, fruity opening of bergamot, orange and pineapple against a smoky, leathery base of patchouli, leather and birch tar. Its longevity and sillage are rated moderate: it neither fills the room nor fades quickly. Most voters pick it for daytime and business wear, and it also suits leisure hours. It reads masculine. It opens with citrus and pineapple, a fresh fruity lift, with amberwood adding a woody line. The heart brings marine notes, neroli, elemi resin and jasmine, giving a green, resinous feel. It settles into patchouli, leather and birch tar, a smoky edge softened by white musk.

Empyreal

7.5

Navitus Parfums · 2021

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Navitus Parfums Empyreal is a unisex scent that leans towards evenings and nights out, pairing a fruity, gourmand sweetness with a smoky, woody base. It opens with plum and orange for a fruity start. In the heart, cocoa, suede, Venezuelan tonka bean and pastry push it towards a gourmand sweetness. The base of gaiac wood, birch tar and Java vetiver settles into something smoky, leathery and woody, while spicy and powdery touches keep the sweetness in check. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick it for leisure and evening wear, with nights out close behind. It reads as unisex, and Maison Margiela Jazz Club and MCM MCM Diamond have a close profile.

Blue Chyp

7.9

Jinx · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Jinx Blue Chyp is a unisex chypre that pairs maritime pine, bergamot and roses with oakmoss and oud, opening fresh and citrusy. The top brings maritime pine, bergamot, aldehydes and neroli for a bright start. The heart is floral, built on May rose, Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose, lily of the valley and blue lotus, with birch tar adding a smoky edge. The base of Sri Lankan oud, oakmoss, amber, ambergris and civet settles into a woody, powdery and animalic dry-down. Voters rate its longevity as very strong and its sillage as strong, though the number of votes is small. The chypre structure and animalic base make it a character-driven choice rather than an easy everyday scent. Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso and Lanvin Clair de Jour have a close profile.