The Perfume Library

Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco

8.1

Amouage · 2022

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Amouage Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco is a sweet, spicy and smoky unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter evenings. The top notes of elemi resin, cardamom and bergamot set up a fresh spiciness, while tobacco absolute, Bulgarian rose and osmanthus absolute give the heart a soft, rounded sweetness. It dries down on benzoin, vanilla and tonka bean, with assam oud and birch tar adding a smoky, woody depth. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, and favour evening and night-out wear. It reads more masculine than feminine. Perfumes with a close profile include Xerjoff Groove Xcape and Creed Oud Zarian.

Memoir Woman (Eau de Parfum)

8.3

Amouage · 2010

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Eau de Parfum

Amouage Memoir Woman Eau de Parfum suits cold seasons and evenings out: a spicy, woody, leathery take on a floral perfume. Most voters pick winter and fall, and lean towards evening and night-out wear; daily and office use get far fewer votes. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong. Though classed as feminine, some voters read it as masculine or classic. It opens with mandarin orange, cardamom, absinth and pink pepper for a spicy brightness. The heart brings clove, black pepper, rose, jasmine and white blossoms together with dark woods and frankincense. The base of labdanum, leather, oakmoss and castoreum dries down sweet, animalic and smoky.

Rose Barbare

7.8

Guerlain · 2005

Fresh · Floral · Green

Guerlain Rose Barbare is a unisex rose scent built on Bulgarian rose and Turkish rose absolute, sweetened by fenugreek and honey. Aldehydes and Bulgarian rose open fresh and slightly green. In the heart, Turkish rose absolute meets fenugreek for a floral, spicy rose. Underwood, honey and patchouli settle the sweetness onto a woody, faintly powdery base. Voters find the longevity good and the sillage moderate. Spring and fall are the most recommended seasons, with summer and winter not far behind, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. Most voters read it as feminine. Ex Nihilo Rose Hubris and Goutal Rose Absolue have a close profile.

Opus VII - Reckless Leather

7.4

Amouage · 2013

Green · Spicy · Woody

Amouage Opus VII - Reckless Leather is a unisex scent that sets oud, leather and patchouli on a spicy opening. It opens with pink pepper, cardamom, nutmeg and galbanum, a spicy and green start. In the heart oud, leather and patchouli come forward, and in the base frankincense and sandalwood lay a resinous, woody floor. The accords run green, spicy and woody, with leathery, smoky, earthy and animal tones weighing heavily. Longevity and sillage are rated strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is chosen more often for evenings and nights out. Most voters find it masculine, though it is classed as unisex. Amouage Epic Man and Rania J. T. Habanero have a close profile.

Lineage

7.5

Amouage · 2023

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

Amouage Lineage is a unisex scent that leans towards spring and summer, fresh yet spicy and resinous, and suits leisure and daytime wear. It opens with Sichuan pepper, saffron and ginger in a sharp, spicy start, while Peruvian pepper tree pulls it towards green. In the heart, frankincense, fenugreek and myrrh give it a resinous, smoky body. The base settles on patchouli, vetiver, benzoin and labdanum, a woody footing softened by the fresh, aquatic side. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick spring and summer, with leisure and daily wear taking the most votes and business not far behind. Masculine and feminine votes are level, so it sits in the middle of the gender line. Trudon Mortel Noir and Mendittorosa Archetipo have a close profile.

Santal blanc

6.9

Serge Lutens · 2001

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Serge Lutens Santal blanc pairs Indian sandalwood with jasmine, cinnamon and benzoin, giving a sweet, spicy and powdery unisex scent. Longevity is good and sillage moderate, so it stays fairly close to the skin. Most voters suggest fall and winter, with spring not far behind. Leisure and evening are the occasions picked most often. Feminine and masculine votes sit close together, so it wears comfortably either way. Sandalwood sets a creamy base, with jasmine and rose adding a soft floral side. Cinnamon and pink pepper bring the spice, while benzoin and copaiba balsam sweeten it with a resinous warmth. Orris root and musk keep the whole thing powdery and smooth.

Île Pourpre

7.8

Liquides Imaginaires · 2016

Floral · Green · Fruity

Liquides Imaginaires Île Pourpre is a green, floral unisex scent built around black fig, iris and frankincense, best suited to fall and spring days. It opens with Italian bergamot, ginger and shiso, a fresh and lightly spicy start that frankincense and angelica seed push towards resin. At the heart, black fig and iris lead while fenugreek and davana add sweetness. The base settles into cedarwood, patchouli, ambroxan and cashmeran, giving a woody foundation. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close without crowding the room. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter not far behind. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, and reads neither clearly masculine nor feminine, as votes split almost evenly between the two. Houbigant Figuier Noir and Chopard Miel d'Arabie have a close profile.

The Lobster

7.2

Moth and Rabbit · 2016

Fresh · Aquatic · Green

Moth and Rabbit The Lobster opens with green notes, lily of the valley and cypriol, a watery, earthy and woody unisex scent. Green notes and lily of the valley give it a fresh, aquatic start, while cypriol adds a spicy edge. The heart brings leaf green, cedarwood and aquatic notes forward. The base of myrrh, humus, moss and animalic notes pulls it toward an earthy, slightly synthetic character. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick spring, followed by fall and summer, and it leans toward leisure and daily wear. Masculine and feminine votes are close, so it reads as truly unisex. Dsquared² He Wood and Moth and Rabbit Parasite have a close profile.

Corpalium

7.4

Marlou · 2022

Floral · Green · Synthetic

Marlou Corpalium is a powdery iris scent with animal and leathery undertones, green and earthy in feel, unisex and suited to autumn and winter evenings. Iris sets a powdery, floral base, while cedar and gaiac wood add a dry, woody depth. Fenugreek brings a spicy edge, ambrette softens it, and castoreum gives an animal, leathery warmth. A green, synthetic side stays in the background. Longevity is good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening and night-out wear lead. More voters read it as masculine, though many find it feminine. Leather Iris and Peruvian Ambrette have a close profile.

Indigo Night

8.4

Prin · 2024

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Prin Indigo Night is a unisex scent built around amber, cade juniper and tobacco absolute, with a floral, spicy character. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and spring, with winter not far behind. It leans towards evenings and nights out, and it is also worn for leisure. Votes split almost evenly between masculine and feminine, so it reads open to either. Amber and cade juniper lay a sweet, earthy, leathery base; tobacco absolute and leather add edge, while heliotrope and violet bring a powdery, creamy floral softness. Nutmeg and clove supply the spice, and blackcurrant a fruity touch.

Oqachol / โอฆชล

8.2

Prin · 2022

Floral · Aquatic · Green

Prin Oqachol / โอฆชล is a floral, green and smoky unisex scent that suits fall and spring days, leisure time and evenings out; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall, followed by spring and winter. Opinion is split on whether it reads masculine or feminine, so unisex fits well. Oakmoss, cade juniper and Keemun tea come first, while May rose absolute and mimosa absolute carry the floral side. Tobacco and birch tar add a dark, leathery smokiness, frankincense brings resin, and Siberian deer musk gives an animal warmth. Aquatic and green accents lighten this heavy mix a little.

20.1 Sorong

7.3

Pierre Guillaume · 2019

Fresh · Citrus · Spicy

Pierre Guillaume 20.1 Sorong is a spicy, resinous and smoky unisex fragrance built around kyara oud, saffron and benzoin; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick fall and winter, though spring is not far behind, and leisure and evening wear lead. The largest share of voters finds it masculine, but a good number read it as feminine. Oud, saffron and benzoin form a resinous, spicy backbone. Cistus, labdanum and patchouli add an earthy, leathery depth, while ginger and citrus fruits lift that weight slightly. Cypress and gaiac wood strengthen the woody side, and iris brings a powdery softness. Moresque Ubar 1992 and Goutal Ambre Fétiche have a close profile.

Gujarat

6.9

Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes · 2011

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes Gujarat is a spicy, floral unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings. Jasmine, rose and sandalwood form a floral and woody base, while saffron, cardamom, cumin and turmeric add a warm, spicy character. Mango brings sweetness, and oud and frankincense lend a resinous, smoky depth. There is an earthy, animal side as well. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evenings, leisure time and nights out leading. Votes for masculine and feminine run close, so the scent doesn't lean firmly to either side. Dior Oud Ispahan and Ajmal Santal Wood have a close profile.

Rose Hubris

7.2

Ex Nihilo · 2013

Fresh · Floral · Green

Ex Nihilo Rose Hubris is a fresh, green-tinged floral unisex scent that suits spring and summer days best. Lychee and fenugreek open it: the lychee adds a fruity freshness, the fenugreek a lightly spicy warmth. In the heart, May rose meets labdanum for a sweet floral note. Patchouli, oakmoss and musk settle underneath, leaving a woody, powdery base. Longevity and sillage are moderate. Most voters pick spring and summer, and leisure, daily wear and the office lead the occasions. The largest share of voters still reads it as feminine.

Akhetaten

8.0

Parfum Prissana · 2024

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Parfum Prissana Akhetaten is a spicy, resinous and smoky floral with leathery and animal edges, giving it a dark, dense character; it is unisex. The opening is warm and dry, led by liquorice, saffron, nutmeg and cinnamon. Rose absolute, pink lotus and jasmine bring a floral softness at the heart, with ylang-ylang sweetening it. The base settles into a smoky, resinous depth of suede, birch tar, frankincense, myrrh and amber. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick autumn, followed by winter, and evening and night-out wear lead, though it also works for leisure. It reads evenly between masculine and feminine. Parfum Prissana Sahar and Strangers Parfumerie Ember have a close profile.

Fleur Cachée

7.5

Anatole Lebreton · 2020

Green · Sweet · Spicy

Anatole Lebreton Fleur Cachée opens with Nepalese sichuan pepper, turmeric and fenugreek, then settles into sweet, woody warmth in this unisex scent. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall, spring and winter, with summer chosen less often. It is worn most for leisure, then for evenings and daytime. Votes split evenly between masculine and feminine, so it sits comfortably on either side. The pepper and turmeric spice meets the sweet, earthy tone of fenugreek at the start. In the heart, Texas cedar and New Caledonian sandalwood build a woody frame, and in the base Bourbon vanilla and Peru balsam leave a resinous, oriental sweetness. A green thread runs through it. Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin and Dries Van Noten Voodoo Chile have a close profile.

Nouveaunille

7.0

House of Matriarch · 2018

Sweet · Gourmand · Spicy

House of Matriarch Nouveaunille is a sweet, gourmand unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Vanilla runs through it: Tahitian, Bourbon and Hawaiian vanilla sit together, joined by caramel. Fenugreek and myrrh add a spicy, resinous depth, while sandalwood, gaiac wood and oud give a smoky woodiness and musk softens the whole. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick winter and autumn, and place it in the evening or on a night out, with leisure wear close behind. Masculine and feminine votes are level, so it reads as open to either. Imaginary Authors Memoirs of a Trespasser and Maison Margiela By the Fireplace have a close profile.

Rem Homme (1996)

7.0

Réminiscence · 1996

Fresh · Citrus · Floral

Réminiscence Rem Homme is a fresh, floral and aquatic men's fragrance that suits spring and summer days; it has been discontinued. It opens with jasmine, rose, lilac and marine notes, while the citrus and green accords keep it bright. Fenugreek and patchouli add a spicy touch in the heart, and tonka bean, white musk and vanilla soften the base and sweeten it slightly. A synthetic edge runs through the accords. Most voters recommend spring and summer, with leisure, daily wear and business the most chosen settings. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate. Most voters find it masculine, though a fair number read it as feminine. Nino Amaddeo For Zoé and Mine Perfume Lab Alleria have a close profile.

ΓΦΛ Parfum Fin

8.4

Nabucco · 2013

Fresh · Floral · Green

Nabucco ΓΦΛ Parfum Fin opens with green mandarin orange and pink pepper, carries frankincense and violet at its heart and settles on moss and leather, a unisex scent with a green, woody and leathery character. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it leans towards evenings and nights out, though it also works for leisure. It reads more masculine than feminine, with a fair share of voters finding it feminine. The opening is fresh and spicy, with green mandarin orange and pink pepper alongside rose. Frankincense gives the heart a resinous feel over precious woods, while violet and star anise soften and sharpen it in turn. The base of moss, leather, fenugreek and amber dries down earthy and smoky. Its profile is close to Motörhead Motörhead Woman and Rook Perfumes Thurible.

Basmati Rose

8.3

Sultan Pasha Attars

Floral · Gourmand · Spicy

Sultan Pasha Attars Basmati Rose is a unisex scent that pairs rose absolute with honey absolute, saffron and sandalwood, leaning floral and gourmand. Voters find its longevity strong and its sillage good. Most pick autumn and spring, winter follows close behind, and summer sits at the back. It leans towards leisure and evening wear, and votes on masculine and feminine are almost evenly split. Rose absolute, honey absolute and Persian saffron come forward, while basmati rice sets a creamy, gourmand base. Star anise and black caraway add a spicy edge, and sandalwood, patchouli and frankincense give it a woody, resinous depth. Tonka bean and benzoin sweeten it further.

Tabaquero

7.3

Anatole Lebreton · 2026

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Anatole Lebreton Tabaquero is a sweet, smoky unisex fragrance built around cade juniper, tobacco and rum. Cade juniper and cypriol give it a woody, smoky edge, while cinnamon and fenugreek thread spice through it. Tobacco and rum sit inside that frame, and benzoin, vanilla and liquorice carry a resinous sweetness. Immortelle balances that sweetness with a dry, herbal note. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick fall and winter, with summer the least chosen season. It leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads more masculine, though it works as unisex too. Penhaligon's The Blazing Mister Sam and Jacques Zolty Cubata have a close profile.

Santal 1952

8.8

Jinx · 2024

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Jinx Santal 1952 is a floral, woody unisex fragrance that sets several sandalwoods against jasmine, gardenia and Anatolian rose; it has been discontinued. It opens fresh, spicy and slightly green with pineapple, cardamom, green pepper and bay leaf. The heart turns creamy and oriental through jasmine sambac, gardenia, frangipani and tobacco. Mysore, Ceylonese and Australian sandalwood meet Mongolian deer musk in the base, leaving an animal, earthy trace. Longevity is rated very strong and sillage strong, though few have voted. Its dense, rich character suits bold wear.

Svaha

7.7

Not Perfumes · 2018

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Not Perfumes Svaha is a unisex scent with a spicy, woody and smoky character, warmed by resinous and animal tones. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and almost none suggest summer. Evenings, leisure time and nights out come up most often. Some voters call it masculine, a good number call it feminine, so it sits comfortably between the two. It opens with ginger, long pepper and cardamom, softened by frankincense and butter. In the heart, Himalayan cedar, cinnamon and caramel come forward, while turmeric and fenugreek keep the spice going. The base of myrrh, labdanum, embers and goatskin settles into a smoky, earthy, animal finish.

Liquid Mind Control

8.7

The Dua Brand · 2017

Fruity · Gourmand · Spicy

The Dua Brand Liquid Mind Control is a unisex scent that deepens a fruity, gourmand opening with spice, smoke and resin. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good, with nearly all voters scoring longevity high. The profile suits both men and women. Red berries, Amalfi lemon and Sicilian bergamot give a bright fruit and citrus start, while red ginger sharpens it with spice. In the heart, Caribbean rum, Scotch whisky, gaiac wood and cypriol build a smoky, woody warmth, softened by Tunisian rose. Amber, Australian sandalwood and fenugreek settle into a creamy, resinous sweetness at the base.