The Perfume Library

Grandenia

8.4

Areej Le Doré · 2020

Citrus · Floral · Sweet

Areej Le Doré Grandenia is a discontinued unisex scent that ties the brightness of bergamot and lemon to gardenia, cinnamon and a dense base of myrrh and oud. Its longevity is very strong and its sillage strong. Most voters pick autumn, spring and winter, with summer trailing behind. It leans towards evenings, nights out and leisure rather than office or daytime wear, and masculine and feminine votes sit close together. It opens with citrus and frankincense absolute, and the heart of cinnamon, nutmeg, rosemary and gardenia turns spicy and floral. In the base, myrrh, sandalwood, patchouli, tonka bean and oud weigh in, settling into a sweet, resinous, powdery woodiness. Chypre and animal accords add depth.

Per Fumum: Ambra Luminosa

8.3

Annette Neuffer · 2016

Sweet · Spicy · Woody

Annette Neuffer Per Fumum: Ambra Luminosa is a sweet, resinous unisex scent, with spice, wood and smoke keeping that sweetness warm and dark. Most voters recommend it for autumn and winter, and lean towards evenings and nights out. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Masculine and feminine votes are almost level, so it sits comfortably on either side. It opens spicy, with cardamom, black pepper, bergamot and elemi resin. Towards the heart, tobacco, rose otto and frankincense come forward. In the base, myrrh, tonka bean, Bourbon vanilla and amber weigh in, and the scent sweetens and settles into a resinous warmth. Xerjoff Empiryan and Amouage Opus XIV - Royal Tobacco have a close profile.

War and Peace III (Extrait de Parfum)

8.7

Areej Le Doré · 2025

Floral · Spicy · Woody

Extrait de Parfum

Areej Le Doré War and Peace III Extrait de Parfum is a dense, animalic unisex scent suited to autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated very strong and its sillage strong. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it is chosen mainly for evenings and nights out. More voters find it masculine than feminine, with a good share calling it classic, though some read it as feminine. The structure rests on a hard, animalic, resinous and earthy core. It opens on fossilised amber, with Indonesian patchouli, Taif rose, Rosa alba and orris absolute in the heart. Castoreum, civet, oakmoss and Indian oud weigh heavily in the base, so the floral side settles onto a dark, smoky, leathery ground. War and Peace II and War and Peace have a close profile.

Baikal Gris (Extrait de Parfum)

8.5

Areej Le Doré · 2018

Green · Spicy · Woody

Extrait de Parfum

Areej Le Doré Baikal Gris Extrait de Parfum is a woody, resinous unisex scent that suits autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and evening, leisure and night out lead the occasions. Most voters read it as masculine, though classic and feminine votes are far from rare. It opens with Russian fir balsam, Indian ambergris and violet leaf, a green, cool start. In the heart, vanilla and Mysore sandalwood add a creamy softness. The base of cypress, oakmoss, cedarwood and fossilised amber settles into an earthy, spicy and slightly animal depth.

Tibetan Musk

8.3

Ensar Oud · 2021

Fresh · Fruity · Spicy

Ensar Oud Tibetan Musk is a unisex scent built on Tibetan musk, cedarwood and Omani frankincense, with a resinous, smoky and woody feel. Its longevity is rated strong and its sillage good. Most voters place it in spring and fall, for leisure time and evenings, and they read it as leaning masculine, followed by classic. Spices, fossilised amber and cedarwood form a woody, oriental base. Blackcurrant and lavender lighten it with a fresh, fruity touch, while Tibetan musk adds an animal warmth.

Per Fumum: A Sanctified Rose

8.1

Annette Neuffer · 2016

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Annette Neuffer Per Fumum: A Sanctified Rose is a unisex scent that sets rose, resin and spice inside a sweet, smoky woodiness. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with evenings, leisure and nights out the leading occasions. It doesn't lean clearly masculine or feminine; both get an equal share of votes. It opens with Indian bay leaf, frankincense, elemi resin and black pepper, a spiced, resinous start. In the heart, Turkish rose and Persian rose are softened by labdanum and orris root. The base of Peru balsam, Bourbon vanilla, oud and Indian sandalwood leaves an earthy, sweet warmth. Annette Neuffer Per Fumum: Ambra Luminosa and Annette Neuffer Avicenna Myrrha Mystica have a close profile.

Mysore Incenza

7.3

Areej Le Doré · 2022

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Areej Le Doré Mysore Incenza is a floral, sweet and resinous unisex scent built around frankincense, jasmine and Mysore sandalwood. Frankincense sits at the top, with jasmine, Indian rose and ambergris in the heart. The base holds fossilised amber, Mysore sandalwood and amber. The accords set floral and sweet notes over a spicy, woody and creamy base, finished with resinous and smoky touches. Longevity and sillage both rate as good. Most voters pick fall and spring, and evening and night out lead the occasions. Feminine and masculine votes run close, so it sits evenly between the two. Stéphane Humbert Lucas Wish Come True and Keiko Mecheri Oliban have a close profile.

Milestones

8.6

TSVGA · 2020

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

TSVGA Milestones is a spicy, woody and smoky unisex scent that leans towards fall and winter; it has been discontinued. Several ouds lead: Indian, Laotian, Thai and Cambodian. Sandalwood, fossilised amber and pine tar sit beside them, while cocoa absolute and beeswax soften and sweeten the whole. Jasmine sambac and pink lotus add a floral trace, and the accords bring resinous, earthy and animalic sides. Longevity and sillage are both rated strong. Most voters pick fall and winter, with evening and leisure wear leading. It reads more masculine than feminine. Its profile is close to TSVGA Milestones Attar and Areej Le Doré Al Oud.

Floris Rex

8.1

Nebiru Parfvms · 2025

Floral · Green · Spicy

Nebiru Parfvms Floris Rex is a unisex chypre with a floral and green character that suits spring and autumn days; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good. Most voters pick spring and autumn, with winter and summer trailing behind. Leisure, daily wear and nights out lead the occasions, and it can work for the office too. The top opens with rosemary, thyme, cardamom and Italian lemon, giving a spicy, herbal start. In the heart, gardenia, ylang-ylang and magnolia meet the green notes of lavender and blue cypress. The base settles on oakmoss, patchouli, amber and Atlas cedar, an earthy, woody and resinous finish.

Burnana

8.0

OM Parfum · 2024

Fruity · Spicy · Woody

OM Parfum Burnana is a unisex scent with a fruity, smoky core and a strong animal and resinous side, suited to people who like dense, long-lasting fragrances. Burnana has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated very strong and its sillage strong, so it stays on the skin for hours and makes itself known in a room. It reads neither masculine nor feminine. Fruity notes such as apple and banana sit next to smoke, oud, oakmoss and civet. Sumatran benzoin and fossilised amber soften the sweetness, while castoreum and gaiac wood add a leathery, earthy edge. The overall impression is spicy, woody and dark.

DEV #3: The Inevitable

6.6

Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes · 2012

Spicy · Woody · Oriental

Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes DEV #3: The Inevitable is a spicy, woody and resinous unisex scent with earthy, smoky depth, suited to dark autumn and winter evenings. Its accords sit in an oriental register, with leathery and animal touches. Spikenard, cistus, black truffle, frankincense and myrrh lead the notes. The notes have no top-to-base split and read as one piece: a resinous, earthy, smoky warmth. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and leisure and evening wear lead the occasions. More voters call it masculine, though a fair number find it feminine. Nishane Afrika-Olifant and Tauer Perfumes L'Oudh have a close profile.

Oud Picante

8.3

Areej Le Doré · 2017

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Areej Le Doré Oud Picante is a spicy, smoky unisex scent suited to autumn and winter evenings; it has been discontinued. Its longevity is rated very strong and its sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, and it leans towards evenings and nights out. It reads mostly masculine or classic, though it is classed as unisex. It opens with cumin, cardamom and cinnamon in a sharp spice cloud, joined by nutmeg and clove. The heart brings tobacco, coffee and Borneo oud, with carrot seed and spikenard adding an earthy edge. In the base, Bengal sandalwood, fossilised amber and labdanum settle it into a sweet, resinous, leathery warmth.

Emperor's Court

8.2

Dixit & Zak · 2021

Floral · Sweet · Spicy

Dixit & Zak Emperor's Court opens with jasmine, Bulgarian rose and bergamot over a heavy base of oud, amber and resins, a floral and spicy unisex scent that has been discontinued. The heart holds ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, Turkish rose and Indian spices, with the flowers resting on a sweet, creamy footing. In the base, Assam oud, labdanum, frankincense, vanilla and ambergris lead, and the scent settles into something woody, resinous and faintly smoky. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good. Most voters pick autumn and winter, with night out and evening the main occasions. More voters call it masculine, but a good share see it as feminine. Rogue Derviche and Xerjoff Alexandria III have a close profile.

Black Musk for Men (Cologne)

6.3

Jōvan · 2009

Fresh · Floral · Green

Jōvan Black Musk for Men is a fresh, green and floral men's cologne that opens on mandarin orange, tagetes and violet leaf. Mandarin's fruity brightness meets the green edge of violet leaf at first. In the heart, lavender, bamboo and cypress build a light, aromatic and slightly woody frame. The base of fossilised amber, musk and labdanum sweetens it and settles into a powdery softness, with a somewhat synthetic feel. Longevity and sillage are rated weak, so it stays close to the skin and keeps a low profile. Most voters pick fall and spring, and it leans towards leisure, daily wear and the office. Most voters read it as masculine.

Northern Flicker

7.5

January Scent Project · 2024

Fresh · Citrus · Green

January Scent Project Northern Flicker is a green, woody unisex scent built on pine and mint, suited to anyone who wants a cool, forest-like air. Ponderosa pine, fir needle and French pine absolute form the backbone, while American spearmint and peppermint keep it bright. Bergamot adds a citrus touch, and tobacco absolute, labdanum and vetiver pull the scent towards something resinous and earthy. The overall impression is fresh, green and spicy. Voters rate its longevity and sillage as good, and most longevity votes fall on the high side. The number of votes is small, so these ratings are a guide rather than a verdict. It reads as unisex and has been discontinued.

Kiste (2022)

8.5

Slumberhouse · 2022

Fruity · Sweet · Gourmand

Slumberhouse Kiste (2022) is a unisex scent that sets fruity, gourmand sweetness on a resinous, woody base; it has been discontinued. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, so it stays on skin for a long time and carries clearly around the wearer. Few people have rated it, but opinion on its staying power points the same way. The scent reads as a single whole rather than in stages: honey, vanilla and tonka bean carry the sweetness, while peach and elderberry give it a fruity edge. Benzoin and fossilised amber add a creamy, resinous warmth, and patchouli, oak and pipe tobacco bring a spicy, woody depth. Scotch heather stays in the background of this dense blend. Parfums de Marly Oajan and Lattafa Pride Eternal Oud have a close profile.

Oud Chaotique

7.5

Katana · 2024

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

Katana Oud Chaotique is a sweet, woody and smoky unisex fragrance led by Assam oud, vanilla and amber. The notes read as one whole: Assam oud and fossilised amber lay a woody, resinous base, while La Réunion vanilla and benzoin pull it towards a gourmand sweetness. Ylang-ylang adds a soft floral touch, cedarwood and rosewood carry a dry, spicy woodiness, and the animal accord gives the warm picture a rougher edge. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, though the number of votes is small. It is a dense, oriental scent that suits both men and women. Al Haramain Oudh 36 and Emper Best Dark Oud have a close profile.

Anbar December Edition

7.8

Dixit & Zak · 2022

Floral · Fruity · Sweet

Dixit & Zak Anbar December Edition is a spicy, resinous unisex fragrance built around ambergris, oud and sandalwood; it has been discontinued. It opens with lemon and bergamot for freshness, while labdanum and vanilla lay a sweet footing. In the heart, black pepper and red pepper add spice, blackcurrant, plum and raspberry bring a fruity sweetness, and rose adds a soft floral touch. In the base, myrrh, frankincense, benzoin, tonka bean and cinnamon dominate, and it dries down creamy, woody and amber-warm. Longevity is rated strong and sillage good, though both ratings rest on only a few votes. Its dense, warm build sits closer to cooler weather. It reads neither masculine nor feminine, suiting those who like a full-bodied character.

Gold Leaves

7.4

Régime des Fleurs · 2016

Fresh · Floral · Green

Régime des Fleurs Gold Leaves is a fresh, green floral with a powdery, resinous side, balanced by spice. Created by Mathieu Nardin and now discontinued, it is unisex. The scent reads as one continuous whole: citron and laurel give a bright green frame, while cardamom and cypriol add spice. Iris and lily build the floral, powdery heart of it, and oakmoss, white cedarwood and fossilised amber bring a dry, resinous depth. Sweetness stays in the background, with a faint animal note beneath. Longevity and sillage are rated good, though few have voted. It sits comfortably between masculine and feminine. Tom Daxon Crushing Bloom and Le Labo Iris 39 (Eau de Parfum) have a close profile.

Häxan

8.0

Heretic · 2025

Fresh · Floral · Sweet

Heretic Häxan is a unisex scent built around osmanthus, oakmoss and Turkish rose, resting on musk and fossilised amber, with a floral and earthy character. Longevity is rated good and sillage moderate, so it stays close to the skin without filling a room. The number of votes is small, so these ratings are only a rough guide. Being unisex, it reads neither distinctly masculine nor feminine. It opens with osmanthus absolute. In the heart, oakmoss absolute and Turkish rose set up a floral and earthy balance. The base of musk and fossilised amber sweetens the scent and leaves a resinous, faintly smoky warmth, while the fresh accord keeps a light lift over it.

The Golden Triangle

8.6

N•O•A•M · 2026

Citrus · Spicy · Woody

N•O•A•M The Golden Triangle is a unisex fragrance built around narcissus absolute, opoponax and oud resin, holding citrus, spice and smoke together, and it has been discontinued. It reads as a single whole rather than a top-to-base progression: Asian pomelo and kaffir lime bring citrus, cinnamon and cardamom bring spice, and patchouli and vetiver add an earthy side. Oud, benzoin and labdanum give a resinous core, civet and castoreum add animal warmth, and birch tar lends a smoky edge. Voters find its longevity good and its sillage good too, though the sample is small, so this is only a rough guide. It suits those who like dense, resinous, woody-smoky scents. Nebiru Parfvms Mandalay and Extra Virgo Sacred Tobacco have a close profile.

Sastun

7.2

Gather Perfume · 2013

Fresh · Citrus · Green

Gather Perfume Sastun is a unisex scent built around oakmoss, juniper and galangal, pairing fresh, green tones with a woody, resinous base; it has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage both come across as moderate: it neither dominates the room nor vanishes quickly. It reads as unisex, and since only a few people have rated it, these impressions are tentative, though the overall score is positive. The scent as a whole is fresh and green, with a citrus lift and a spicy edge. Juniper and lavender carry the freshness, while oakmoss and blue cypress add an earthy, woody weight. Sandalwood, fossilised amber and myrrh leave a warm, resinous undertone, and white sage rounds out the green air.

Foxy (Voile de Parfum)

7.0

DSH Perfumes · 2017

Floral · Sweet · Gourmand

DSH Perfumes Foxy is a unisex scent that takes a floral and sweet core and deepens it with spice, resin and animalic tones, with a gourmand side as well. Foxy's longevity and sillage are rated moderate; there are only a few votes so far, though voters place both slightly above average. It doesn't lean to one gender and reads as unisex. The top has white cognac, peach skin, ginger biscuit and spices, giving a warm, sweet opening. In the heart, iris, carnation and orange blossom form a floral body. The base is led by French beeswax, ambergris, labdanum and leather, settling into a woody, resinous, faintly smoky warmth. DSH Perfumes Une Robe de Zibeline and DSH Perfumes Rendezvous have a close profile.

Blueberry Chypre

6.5

Aromas de Salazar · 2023

Fruity · Spicy · Woody

Aromas de Salazar Blueberry Chypre is a unisex scent that sets blueberry and Italian bergamot on a chypre base, balancing its fruity brightness with woody, smoky and leathery depth. It has been discontinued. Longevity and sillage are both rated good, though those ratings rest on only a few votes. The animal and smoky accords dominate, so it sits between masculine and feminine and reads as unisex. It opens with Italian bergamot, blueberry and pink pepper, where fruit and spice give a fresh start. In the heart, Indonesian patchouli, Bulgarian white rose otto and petitgrain turn it floral and earthy. The base is led by Somalian frankincense absolute, labdanum, oakmoss and castoreum, drying down into a warm, resinous, animal chypre.